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Old Feb 06, 2013, 04:28 PM
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That's an interesting idea Charlie. I think the Parrakeet would need top, bottom and front plastic pieces. And a nice engine kit too...
Glenn
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 08:42 AM
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Norfolk, England
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Okay, I lied. I got no building done yesterday, but did get some more done to the Martin MO-1 plan. I decided it wasn't worth dragging it all out again just to build a fuselage side and an u/c leg so got on with the plan instead.
Shopping today didn't go quite as planned, the wife decided she didn't want to go into town. However, we battled our way into the model room and searched out some bits of 1/32 balsa so I can get the tail outlines laminated tonight - and build a fuselage side and u/c leg.
Despite our combined efforts, there's still no sign of the razor plane so trimming wings will have to wait a little while.
Yes, it is some time since I did any balsa building and the model room is stacked high with little helicopters and foamy models, boxes of Depron, etc. Finding anything has become a bit of a lottery - with only slightly more chance of finding exactly what I'm looking for than winning a real lottery. I knew it was a bad idea to tidy everything away (into the model room) while I decorated the dining room. Those helicoptes and bits of Depron were perfectly happy in the corner behind my computer desk. If nothing else I knew precisely where they were.

Pete
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 10:38 AM
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That's too funny!
When I organize stuff I end up losing half of it because it's not where I last left it...
Or at least where I remember where it was the last time I saw it...
Like putting something where I won't lose it, then never seeing it again.
Then go buy another only to find the first one and now I have 2... Or sometimes 3.
Glenn
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 07:15 PM
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Well, I got done what I planned this evening. Our little Sperry Monoplane now has two fuselage sides, two u/c legs and some laminated tail outlines.
Just out of interest, and to see how it might be looking weight wise, I chucked what I have (the tail outlines are still pinned to the board so weren't included) on my scales and the sides, two untrimmed wing panels, an equally untrimmed c/s and the pair of u/c legs come in at 6.1 grams. Once the wings have eventually been trimmed and sanded that may come down to around 5.5 grams. Okay, I know the weight will start to pile on as the fuselage goes together, but I am reasonably happy with how the weight looks. The remaining laser cut parts and a 9"x3" piece of 1/32 balsa adds another 4 grams to that so we could be looking at a naked airframe weight of around 20 grams. I am, however, looking out for a lighter piece of 1/32 basla sheet. This one looks harder than required.

Pete
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 04:29 AM
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Well, last night was quite a good building session. I needed to redo the laminated outlines (just didn't like the way the first ones came out) and then I set to on building the fuselage.

I can see I'll have to reduce the size of the opening in F2. All the other formers were fine (they're not quite as big as F2) but F2 was a pain because it kept breaking along the grain. In fairness to the original drawing, it did seem that former was a little softer than the others. Just a shade harder and it would have been fine as it is.
Anyway, the former and 'brick' rail positions were marked onto both fuselage sides, the rails glued to both and the formers to one side. After a little drying time (smoke break) the second side was added, the tail pulled in and the remaining formers/cross braces glued in.
I found a little softer piece of 1/32 sheet big enough to do all the top deckings, so sheeted the rear fuselage decking. I was intending to wait until the motor was installed before sheeting the front, but I'm still undecided about what motor to fit. Therefore, I may yet decide to sheet the forward top decking and install the motor from below the nose. I have two types of mount plate in the cut parts, one a flat plate that might suit the Nine Eagles unit and another that is a former style for a Vapor style motor to fit into. I know the Vapor motor isn't powerful enough but it could easily be adapted to suit a 7 or 8 mm unit, so most options are covered. It should be possible to wriggle either into place through the open lower nose, set up thrust angles and then glue the former in place.
At least, if I get all the sheeting in place, I'll be able to get the fuselage more or less finished before I have to think about installing the gear and motor. With that in mind I'll go back to the plan today and work out precise positions for pushrod exits so I can get them cut and fitted ready for the final fuselage sanding.

With tonights tasks sorted out for me I suppose I'd better post some progress photos.

Pete
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 11:58 AM
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4.5 grams? That's really light! You using 6lb stock wood?
Glenn
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 02:45 PM
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Norfolk, England
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Glenn,
None of my wood is weight graded, I just select what looks/feels right to me. I would think that none of the wood I had available is quite as light as that Charlie used to cut the parts. Close, but still a little heavier.
I don't think it's so much the weight of the wood, more how little of it there is. What has surprised me is just how rigid the fuselage has turned out.

Pete
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 07:26 AM
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We now have a more or less finished fuselage build - and a sanded fuselage. Last night saw those pushrod exits I mentioned fitted, the front decking added and the area between the u/c leg slots (F2-F3) filled with 1/32 balsa sheet. Afterall, it's awfully nice to have something to attach the covering to around bits that stick out - like the u/c legs.
The little Sperry also has a full set of tail surfaces too. All nicely separated, sanded and temporarilly hinged. At the moment hinging consists of short lengths of monofillament fishing line pushed through pin holes in the edges of fin/rudder and tailplane/elevators. Whether I leave it at that, or hunt out some floppy disc material remains to be seen.
While I was sanding things I rounded off the c/s struts, u/c legs and tailskid. Nothing excessive, just a bit of smoothing and taking the corners off. The c/s got sanded but the wings still await the rediscovery of my razor plane - or the purchase of a replacement.

One thing all this sanding has demonstrated is that my estimate of a 20 gram airframe may have been a bit conservative. With all the wood parts I've mentioned plonked on the scales they're reading spot on 10 grams. There are some 1/32 ply wing struts to come, but I dare say most of their weight will be cancelled out by what I still have to trim from the wings. Add to that a fine wire (or carbon rod) axle and a pair of Peck spoked wheels and it shouldn't come to much more than 15 grams. Then it all goes to hell once I start covering.

I'll post more progress photos this evening. Having got about as far as I can on this one, for the moment, maybe I'll make a start on the Eastbourne Monoplane. I'm really rather enjoying building these little models, they're so like the rubber power models I used to build. They were fun to build and sometimes actually flew quite well.

Pete
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by PETERRAKE View Post
I'm really rather enjoying building these little models, they're so like the rubber power models I used to build. They were fun to build and sometimes actually flew quite well.
Hi Pete

I've been looking at your smaller models in the other forums and I must admit I'm getting interested myself; when I was building my rubber-powered models all those years ago I remember thinking at the time 'wouldn't it be great if this had full radio control and I could keep it in the air for longer'.

Since then I've found a lot of the old plans on the Outerzone site and my enthusiasm is growing daily. If I DO build one for r/c, the first will be the little Veron Tru Flite SE5a - always one of my best flyers.

Regards
Harry
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 12:12 PM
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Harry,
I liked their Nieuport. Converted it to a Nieuport 27 and powered it with an Arden rubber power unit.
I see both are available laser cut from the people who took over Replikit.
http://www.vintagemodelcompany.com/

The parts for the Eastbourne I'll be starting soon came from them and they look really nicely cut. The Veron range without having to cut rock hard printwood and built from decent wood would be really good.
Oooooh, I just noticed the Camel, Fury and Sopwith Triplane are on there too.


Now, about covering the Sperry. I favour covering wet, using Esaki and dope, but what do you lot think? Maybe that wouldn't be such a good idea over 1/32 balsa sheet.

Pete
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PETERRAKE View Post
Harry,
I liked their Nieuport. Converted it to a Nieuport 27 and powered it with an Arden rubber power unit.
I see both are available laser cut from the people who took over Replikit.
http://www.vintagemodelcompany.com/

The parts for the Eastbourne I'll be starting soon came from them and they look really nicely cut. The Veron range without having to cut rock hard printwood and built from decent wood would be really good.
Oooooh, I just noticed the Camel, Fury and Sopwith Triplane are on there too.


Now, about covering the Sperry. I favour covering wet, using Esaki and dope, but what do you lot think? Maybe that wouldn't be such a good idea over 1/32 balsa sheet.

Pete
I admit that I'd never covered wet back when I was building the smaller Peck and Comet kits, but then I'd never had many compound curves to deal with! I usually did fine covering dry, wetting the tissue for shrinking after it was on the airframe. At least the little Peck Druine and the Gypsy Moth were largely 1/32" in one guise or another...

Maybe make a "sacrificial" piece to give it try, then if all is well, go to town on the Sperry proper?

James
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 06:02 PM
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James,
I figured I might have to try that. Definitely sounds a lot safer that warping the hell out of the Sperry deckings. It's probably more controllable when it comes to overlapping edges too.

Okay, here are those photos I promised. The Eastbourne bits are now one fuselage side and two wing panels.

Pete
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 07:06 AM
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Pete (Rake, that is),

As usual, I'm really enjoying your build, and appreciate how well you present it all.

As for not spending too much for bricks, it doesn't get much better than here.These bricks are discussed in many threads (mainly in the Micro forum), and comments are overwhelmingly positive as regards dealing with Target and the functioning of these bricks.

Regarding the Nine Eagles motor units, I much prefer the Parkzone if for no other reason then the prop shaft being threaded. Additionally, the Nine Eagles unthreaded prop shaft is short and the unit requires a plug change to mate with Parkzone bricks.

I think your build will come in around 30-35g, and you'll have no problem at all with power!

This Micro Builder appreciates your "foray" into small builds, and I really hope to see more!

Gene K
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 07:57 AM
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Maybe, when I draw up the Monocoupe, which is the 110 Special ...
Just in case you're not aware of this outstanding Paul Bradley thread: it's a small Monocoupe 90, but close...

Quote:
I'll try to size it to match an available cowl or plastic bottle.
I also used to spy stores for drink bottles, yogurt cups, containers etc looking for that (near) perfect cowl for a current project ... but now do cowls this way - relatively simple, and the result is a (near) perfect shape, size, weight, and strength.

Gene K
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 09:13 AM
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Norfolk, England
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Gene,
I love the price but unfortunately my transmitter (a DX5i) doesn't have a mix to get the rudder servo operating where I expect rudder to be on a 3 channel model.

Now I'm off to check out those other links.

Pete
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