Thanks brodjack. What's the best UHF system for the 9503 radio? I did not want to tear it apart etc. what did you do?

You have three likely culprits:

1. Naza
2. ESC
3. Motor

You weren't in manual mode (my first guess) and this is just not a common enough occurence to make the Naza a liklely culprit. I think we'd see more instances of this, as we did with the Wookong GPS issues.

That leaves an ESC or motor more likely, particularly as any mechanical part will be considerably less reliable than a solidstate device. Most ESCs are pretty cheaply manfactured. Before they made their own, (well Sydney) used to recommend Hobbywing ESCs. Ive used these and never had a failure, but they are pretty cheap. I don't particularly like DJI motors, I fly AXI on all my expensive ships. While who is the best of the best is subjective, few will argue that AXIs are pretty excellent quality.

Thanks Davey, Funny I have been looking at the AXI's.. and in my new build (TBS Disco frame coming) I want to use them. I am having a hard time picking the comparable AXI motor to the ones I currently have: (Tiger MT2216-12 800kv). ALSO, your totally right about the ESC's I feel like they all are cheap junk.. and I am really spending hours on end trying to research whats the better of them all. Especially if I spring for $400 in Axi motors.

Could you recommend the AXI motor to use based on what I have been using, and also the best esc for it?

I use DJI ESCs with the Naza ... they are guaranteed to 'play nice' and don't require any setup/programming. They're not even expensive (here in the UK, anyway).

Never used the DJI motors though, not been impressed with reports of high temps. etc.

AXI are great motors, I bought my first one in 2003 But I'm not flying pro multis so cannot justify the cost of six of them in a hexa.

Tiger motors (T-Motor) seem pretty good. I have 2216 900 KVs branded as 'Torxpower' (made by Tiger) which are nicely constructed and run stone cold in a 2.1 kg hexa.

Thanks for the info Bill. Yeah apart of me was thinking about the DJI ESC's. Being that I am running Naza and all, made sense. However, I hate the bullet connecting method.. and I am too scared to un-solder and solder direct to the ESC board. I was hoping to find an ESC that has motor out leads that I can "inline" solder into the motor leds. But, I guess I may have to use the bullets?

Any thoughts on that?

Also, will the DJI ESC's work perfect with the $$ Axi motors? I have my heart set on them as I plan on doing volume of flying... but, I def. want to know for sure what the best ESC is for the AXI motors. I know someone said the Maytechs ruined a AXI motor! So, there are some incompatibilities out there.. and I just simply dont know.

Hi Tharr62,
If you have time, you should take a look at this video to see what happen when motor and esc firmware don't like each other. There are alot to say about loss sync/timing. Some time, It is hard to see but the result is so clear.

MT3506 and rapidesc simonk esc (1 min 11 sec)

WOW. and they are "Rapid fire" ESC's too! Thats what mine were and were rebranded "whitspy" from ready to fly quads. So, it is possible then that there was a timing issue with the ESC and the motor? If this was true dose it make sense that it happened at random, and not all the time?

This issue usually happens randomly to the disc type / pancake motor running rapid esc firmware. Your motors are not disc/pancake type motor. but I am not sure if it will happen or not.
To check (do it carefully, your quad may be crash), just hover your quad and shake the stick like the man in this video (to make the throttle changed suddenly). If your quad is still stable as in this video so the problem is not losing sync/timing. If your quad suddenly flip over (or trying to flip over) then you will know, that is losing sync/timing issue.

MT3605 motors and reflashed HK esc's (0 min 26 sec)

Originally Posted by Tharr62

Thanks brodjack. What's the best UHF system for the 9503 radio? I did not want to tear it apart etc. what did you do?

http://www.electronicarc.com/catalog...730869427adc3a

Originally Posted by Tharr62

Thanks for the info Bill. Yeah apart of me was thinking about the DJI ESC's. Being that I am running Naza and all, made sense. However, I hate the bullet connecting method.. and I am too scared to un-solder and solder direct to the ESC board. I was hoping to find an ESC that has motor out leads that I can "inline" solder into the motor leds. But, I guess I may have to use the bullets?

Any thoughts on that?

There's nothing instrinsically wrong with bullet connectors. They're designed for the wear & tear of frequent unplugging, so they lead a pretty easy life on motor leads. The only issue is if they're poorly soldered (DJI motor leads are known to suffer from this).

I always solder all my own connectors so I know they're done right. If I was using pre-made motor leads I'd probably take the heatshrink off to check at least some of the joints, for peace of mind.

Thanks BIll,

and just to check my technique on bullets, I would place the bullet in a grip, and using high heat (40w iron) I would heat the outside side and a little on the inside I guess and then gently melt the solder inside the cup to the top and while it is molten hot (with iron still depressed on the bullet) I would hold the wire in the cup and release heat and hold for 10-15sec until it is cured /cooled? I also would pre tin the motor led before inserting. I assume I should strip away slightly more then needed on the motor led to ensure best connection with the cup?

It's a power problem on the #1 arm (front right) like others have said. I highly doubt battery, it's not common to have a ESC/motor fail and then recover so quickly or even at all, i'd put money on poor soldering. Redo all connections and fly over grass (NOT OTHER PEOPLE/PROPERTY) to make sure it doesnt happen again). Remember heavy vibrations can mess up a lot of things including solder, balance and visually inspect/r- balance your props every 30ish flights. I visually inspect my props before each flight day and anytime they come in contact with something solid.

Originally Posted by Tharr62

Thanks BIll,

and just to check my technique on bullets, I would place the bullet in a grip, and using high heat (40w iron) I would heat the outside side and a little on the inside I guess and then gently melt the solder inside the cup to the top and while it is molten hot (with iron still depressed on the bullet) I would hold the wire in the cup and release heat and hold for 10-15sec until it is cured /cooled? I also would pre tin the motor led before inserting. I assume I should strip away slightly more then needed on the motor led to ensure best connection with the cup?

Sounds good, I would only strip as much insulation as needed though.

It also helps if whatever you grip the connector in isn't going to conduct the heat away. A wooden block with holes drilled in works fine, or you can use a small croc. clip with a bit of silicone tube slipped over each jaw for insulation.

It's a power problem on the #1 arm (front right) like others have said. I highly doubt battery, it's not common to have a ESC/motor fail and then recover so quickly or even at all, i'd put money on poor soldering.

Thanks MC. I took a look at the right right ESC, and the power leds. This was one that was built by Paul Baxtor at "ready to fly quads" and he has the motor leds directly soldered on the ESC. I am not sure what to look for in general, as the connections are there and soldered.

What is the proper way to ensure the solder connections?

At this point I guess I would just replace all ESC's with DJI OPTO 30A's.

One last question. Is there any chance the failure could have been the right rear? OR does the video really show that it was the front right..

Quads will tumble in the direction of a failure (so will HEXs for that matter but they don't flip they just fly more like a dead stick airplane).

I use the DJI ESCs and haven't had an issue and they are pretty much just plug and play. The best to to check solders is to resolder. Cold solders can be difficult to identify but you can google image search cold solder and see what they SOMETIMES look like. Realize vibrations can cause a bad solder to heat up and or crack and drop power. Then it can work fine for a while.... then not. Personally i'd resolder everything on that arm and play safe for 10 packs, getting more and more aggressive with the power consumption TRYING to make it fail/overheat when I am over grass and under 20-30ft. Then I would have a little more confidence flying.