|Feb 02, 2013, 02:42 PM|
Joined Feb 2013
First timer , about to click Purchase on this cart. Your advice please.
I am about to build a quad from scratch. Here are the specs, I pretty much ripped off from some guy on the internet (http://www.stratus-productions.com/multirotors.htm).
Please let me know if you think I am missing anything - even if its screws or leads, or if I should replace anything. Thank you for checking this out!
4x NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv / 250w = $59.80
1x Q450 Glass Fiber Quadcopter Frame 450mm - Integrated PCB Version = $11.99
4x NTM Prop Drive 28 Series Accessory Pack = $7.40
4x TURNIGY Plush 30amp Speed Controller = $48.76
1x Gyro / Flight Controller Mounting Pad (10pcs/bag) = $1.99
1x Turnigy 3000mAh 4S 40C Lipo Pack = $38.26
1x WireLabels - servo wire label heatshrink (14mm x 1m) = $0.79
1x Turnigy Pure-Silicone Wire 16AWG (1mtr) BLACK = $1.29
1x TURNIGY BESC Programming Card = $6.91
1x Nylon XT60 Connectors Male/Female (5 pairs) GENUINE = $3.19
1x 10CM Male to Male Servo Lead (JR) 26AWG (10pcs/set) = $3.96
2x M3x12mm Nylon Screws (10pcs/bag) = $1.86
1x 5.6mm x 15mm M3 Nylon Tapped Spacer (10pc) = $2.17
1x M3 Nylon Nut (10pcs/bag) = $0.69
NAZA Multirotor Stabilization Controller by DJI Innovations Quad-copter D-BUSQty: 1£119.99
iMax B6AC B6-AC Digital LCD Lipo Li-Po NiMh Li-ion 3S RC Battery Balance Charger With Tamiya Connector By Lujex
4 X JP APC Slow Flyer Prop 9x4.7 (LP09047SF) = £20
Final Total : ~ £300 / $470
I also have a solder, and a 10 year old 6Ch transmitter and receiver. ( I hope to god it is compatible).
My final aim is to have FPV, and a GoPro or something smaller. Is my setup balanced and powerful enough?
Edit> Thanks again for all your advice, I have added a battery, and male to male servo lead.
|Feb 03, 2013, 09:58 AM|
most people have better experience with 10in props on those motors. you need 20+ bullet connector pairs for esc-motor and esc-dist board connectors. dist board is a distrobution board which splits the batteryu + - to all the ESC + -. i dont see these two things. or you can direct solder between motor-esc-dist board, but repairs will be more anoying.
get atleast 2 batts, as it sucks waiting to charge. and get tons of props as you will break many. better to get more now rahter than waiting later.
also, could you please remove the item numbers and just have name of the product and quantity. very hard to read right now.
|Feb 03, 2013, 01:37 PM|
Joined Feb 2013
Hi - thanks for your help.
The frame - includes a board with it - see here:
I have no idea what PCB means, but I am hoping that I can just direct solder the cables to it. So that means I dont need any bullet connectors.... right?
I will order another batt now.
I have updated the list with the final checkout. Can you recommend what props to get? Specially if I can get orange ones!
|Feb 03, 2013, 02:16 PM|
oh, yep it does, you're good on that, then. you just solder onto the little gold pads seen here: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...og/24173-3.jpg
a PCB is a Printed circuit board. which basically means, they take a piece of material with a thin layer of copper on it, print a protective layer (printer ink works!) over where they want the copper to stay, and then dip it into acid. this "eats" the copper that didnt have the protection, and thus the leftover is lines of copper once the proctection is taken off. its like integrated wiring. see here for more: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Printed...board#Hobbyist
props: you need two CCW and two CW props on your multirotor. each of the following packs has a two set of each.
so if you wanted to use green and black props for better orientation, take one cw and one ccw from a green bag and likewise for black. make sure you put the props on right and each motor is spinning the way its supposed to.
|Feb 03, 2013, 02:49 PM|
ah, yes, good that you mention that, 8in props on these motors will give you less total lifting power, BUT you will get a big increase in agility. that is why bigger props are most often used on AP.
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