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Old Mar 01, 2013, 03:16 AM
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Very happy with total weight.

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Old Mar 01, 2013, 04:25 AM
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United States, FL, Mayo
Joined Jul 2012
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I am about to try and make my first set of wings. I hope mine turn out as well as yours has.
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Old Mar 01, 2013, 11:00 AM
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United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Feb 2004
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I'm real glad to see this thread has people building and helping each other. Great stuff.

Ryan
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Old Mar 01, 2013, 05:01 PM
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Good luck Schoolya.

Show em when you hav'em!
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Old Mar 01, 2013, 07:39 PM
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United States, FL, Mayo
Joined Jul 2012
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I got THIS kit from DLGjunkyard. I have all the stuff to cut my own wings, but I wanted to start with something where someone knew what they where doing. DLGjunkyard has been very helpful in answering questions about his kit, I am glad a made the purchase, if nothing else for his knowledge(and the boom w/tail)
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 12:26 AM
Now fortified with carbon
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Canada, ON, Puslinch
Joined Apr 2010
2,620 Posts
Hey guys. I havent been reading much lately, Been busy building. Wish I had seen this thread a bit earlier. Its a bit late but I put this together about a yr ago. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1562570 I always wanted to build a entire DLG in picture form. Trouble I ran into was the darn numbering of the pictures. For example: If I want to inject a picture into the set in the link I have to physically change the numbers of each picture so it doesn't through them all out of sequence. Much easier if I had of put every picture numbered in a folder and then uploaded the whole sequence.

arrgg!
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 06:16 AM
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United Kingdom, England, London
Joined Feb 2010
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Sarboy, this is a great first build!

If you want to avoid the waviness for the CF pieces:
1/ cut templates of your fabric pieces out of baking paper (the stuff that you use for baking cakes etc)
2/ lightly mist these templates with 3m77 and then apply them to your fabric
3/ then cut the fabric following the template - since it is 'tack glued' to the fabric it will help avoiding fraying / moving around etc...
4/ prepare your mylars, wax them etc, make sure you have all your fabric pieces cut (and still tacked to your baking paper)
5/ mix your epoxy. I usually mix around 9ml per wing surface (top / bottom)
6/ roll the epoxy on the mylar using a foam paint roller (you can find small ones in B&Q I usually cut them so that they are around 4/5cms wide)
7/ the epoxy will bead - this is OK but make sure you roll enough epoxy.
8/ do not wait too long and apply the first layer of fabric on the mylar. Press it (hand) until it absorbs the epoxy, with the baking paper template still on. Once you are happy that this looks even then peel off the baking paper template - it should come out easy as long as you did not put too much 3m77.
9/ continue your layup, rolling more epoxy in the fabric if necessary if it looks too dry
10/ once all your layup is finished, it should still look fairly dry at this stage (that is the advantage of using a foam roller as it controls the amount of epoxy you apply and will also not move the fabric around on the mylar - providing you do not apply too much pressure when you roll)
11/ now is the time to remove the excess epoxy. unroll some toilet paper or kitchen towel roll on your layup. Use a printer roller (hard rubber) for this about 5/10cm wide, can be found in art shops. Roll the toilet paper applying a lot of pressure, this will flatten the fabric and force the excess epoxy out. I usually do 2 passes of this, applying more pressure at the first pass, the second is to insist on the areas where a lot of epoxy came out.
12/ you are almost done. When you get rid of the toilet paper it will look very dry. This is OK. Now re roll some epoxy on the trailing edge (say 1/2 cm wide before the TE). This is quite important, if I leave out this bit the trailing edge comes out fragile and it needs to be resin rich. Do not overdo it though, I tend after that bit to manually blot out the TE with kitchen roll
13/ if you have a CF tow spar in your layup, now is the time to re roll some epoxy (same as TE). Do the same with the tip area especially the side that will have the launch blade
14/ you are done! Do the other side of the wing , sandwich your core and bag. Then open a beer and relax.
Using that method and a supergee style layup I can achieve c110g post trimming for both wing halves. Once joined and servos in you are looking at c125g

A few more tips I skipped in my first wings then found were in fact required to achieve best results and save time in the trimming:
The leading edge. The secret is to have your mylars stopping short of the LE. Approx 5-7mm. If you do this then your mylars will conform to the core all the way - rather than overhang over the LE. What this means is all your layup will be firmly glued to the core and you will not have to sand the excess off. Much cleaner LE out of the bag = less work.
This assumes you have cut a small strip (1.5cm wide) of 45 deg fabric and glued it to the LE with 3M before you started epoxying your mylars. Just smear left over epoxy from your layup on the LE fabric strip before bagging.

The fabric you use also helps (or not) achieving good results. the CF fabric you use is very difficult to work with and distorts a lot. If you can use Textreme (from R&G composites) for your D box. It is really easy to work with and will not distort. You can also skip the Dbox if you use beefy enough spars (look up the supergee layup for sizing the flat spars - which will require sanding a channel in the wing, or the tabooish build threads if you want to use CF rods which are a bit easier to install).

I am not an expert and have only bagged a few wings but this method has helped me achieve some good results in the latest wings, and is essentially a result of a lot of reading of threads in rcgroups from people who know what they are doing much better than me!
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 01:14 PM
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Cheers leleopard,

Thank you for the process. It's hard to find in detail how people do there layups, with all the little intricacies. As for the textreme, are you talking about the spread tow. It's just so darn expensive. I know by doing it yourself your getting a product that would cost twice the amount of the materials, but that still doesn't make it cheap!

What foam do you use? I'm after something a little more dense than what I'm using. I'm getting poor trailing edges. It's hit and miss as to whether I have areas of foam missing at the TE.

It's not obvious but I have used 3mm x 0.8mm spar the length of the wing. I have it vertical though? Should it be horizontal? Seams you would get far less rigidity in that orientation. A T piece would give the best of both.
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 01:51 PM
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United Kingdom, England, London
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Yes I have used the textreme spread tow fabric (80g) for dbox - it is expensive yes but really good to work with. Your other option (cheaper) is to go for the kevlar with disser already in it and forgo the carbon dbox. (http://shop1.r-g.de/4DCGI/ezshop?act...COUNT=54333053)

If you do not have a dbox you will need to have relatively beefier spars - lookup the supergee II plan http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articl.../supergee2.pdf for guidance on layup. You will note 1 layer on the whole wing with another 2 extra layers near the root.

The spars are usually flat on the wing, not vertical (one above, one below) and tapered (wider at the root). The foam between the spars acts as the sheer web.

For foam I use styrofoam I buy in a shop called 4Dmodels. I am not sure it is better than what you are using and I find it is quite expensive. the trailing edge is a pain as the wire tends to sag, one way I have found is to maybe cut a slightly longer chord so that I then cut the excess TE off and have foam everywhere, after that it is a matter of very carefully sanding the foam to a very thin TE (almost unavoidable to damage some parts of the TE there). If you make your TE resin rich you can usually 'hide' these imperfections.
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 01:53 PM
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rdwoebke's Avatar
United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Feb 2004
13,879 Posts
Sarboy,

I think your work is great for a first time. Your work will get better with time. Some day you might go to more expensive materials. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing!

Ryan
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 04:52 PM
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Joined Mar 2010
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Cheers Ryan,

Thank you for the kind words.

Please don't get me wrong, I'm happy with where I'm at. But as wih so many things in life, I want to do it better, be right, do the best I can. In this I have a long way to go but that's half e fun.

The other half will be flying the damm things. When I get the time!

Cheers again.
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 09:50 PM
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United States, CA, Tehachapi
Joined Jun 2011
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I'm building my 5th wing now and I'm just now using the expensive carbon for the first time. Don't sweat it at first. I've made plenty of glass wings and they fly great at a fraction of the cost of carbon.
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Old Mar 07, 2013, 03:03 AM
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Live hinge, now live!

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Old Mar 15, 2013, 09:01 AM
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Servo recess cut.

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Old Mar 15, 2013, 09:03 AM
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Cleaned out ready for install.

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