Originally Posted by valiantGLX

You hold the throttle stick up and to the left to switch it into BL ESC mode (for mode 2). You'll bloody well know its worked if there is a brushed motor still plugged in, the brushed motor takes off out of control at full power in BL ESC mode.

So I soldered a wire to the BL signal point, but it doesnt work with my ESC for some reason

If it has brushless output mode, why are you trying to add an external ESC? Is that necessary? I don't know a lot of the technical information about these bricks so sorry if it's a dumb question.

Originally Posted by bhoov128

If it has brushless output mode, why are you trying to add an external ESC? Is that necessary? I don't know a lot of the technical information about these bricks so sorry if it's a dumb question.

Its a valid question, but it only changes the signal to allow a standalone BL ESC, but wont run a BL motor. It would be excellent if it did, but unfortunately it doesnt

Originally Posted by bhoov128

If it has brushless output mode, why are you trying to add an external ESC? Is that necessary? I don't know a lot of the technical information about these bricks so sorry if it's a dumb question.

Horizon is "incorrect" calling it a "brushless output mode".

It is actually "External ESC output mode".

The Brick provides a signal that will operate an External ESC (Brushless or Brushed)

Think of the 3 port motor block as a servo plug and not as a brushless motor plug, in this output mode.

UNGN Thank god you're here

Do you have any ideas on how to get my 2s ESC to work? Its hooked up correctly as far as I know, but wont work with my Ar6400s. However it works with my Orange RX.

I have left the BEC output wires disconnected, and I have separate batteries for the Ar6400 and ESC. Just the signal wire goes to the brick. Would that cause any issues?

Or is the ESC simply incompatible with my AR6400s, different signal wave length or something

It's a micro 6a 2-3s ESC:

Separate batteries won't work unless they share a ground and even that may not work.

The "signal" is only a "signal" if it has a reference.

This is the best way to wire for 2S:

Originally Posted by UNGN

Separate batteries won't work unless they share a ground and even that may not work.

The "signal" is only a "signal" if it has a reference.

This is the best way to wire for 2S:

Thanks all is not lost then

Diodes usually have a forward voltage drop of 0.6v right? But does it matter which diode I use out of the 1N400(X) range?

I have a few diode looking things kicking around, do you think any of these would work?

EDIT: I just tested one of the lower ones with a voltage gauge and it has a voltage drop of 0.5v, I think it should do the trick

Whats your take on using a resistor instead? The one I tried had a forward voltage drop of 0.3v do you think 4.7v is too much for the board?

Originally Posted by UNGN

This is the best way to wire for 2S:

Chris, you sure do get a lot of use out of that picture. Seems like every thread in the micro section ends up having this question come up!

Glenn

Valiant - I thought I read somewhere that the Mossie brick (AR6400T) did NOT have brushless output mode, unlike all the rest of the brushed AR6400 series.

Glenn

EDITED TO ADD:

Found it - the Mossie brick (6400T and the 6410T) will not directly drive a brushless ESC from the brushed pins. Of course if you program your TX to put the throttle on another channel, and use a different connector on the AR6400 (like Xport) it should be possible.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/SPMAR6400T
http://spektrumrc.com/Products/Defau...dID=SPMAR6410T

Quote: The AR6400T is not compatible with external brushless ESC's

Originally Posted by glenn2626

Valiant - I thought I read somewhere that the Mossie brick (AR6400T) did NOT have brushless output mode, unlike all the rest of the brushed AR6400 series.

(Trying to look that up now...)

Glenn

I think you're right You Can reprogram the brick, which screws up the brushed operation, however the signal doesnt seem to be right as it doesnt work

So for the mossie I think you may need to do the AS3X brick trick and program it to the 5th ch.

I've got my ESC working now on the 5th ch on my AS3X brick, but my mossie brick seems to be stuck in BL mode with the Xport active and it wont allow me to reprogram it

Valiant - you need a common negative to get the brick to work with a 2S external lipo. It does work and is how I am powering a 6400 and CC 10A speedie on 3S in my Micro Hawk.

First of all - Thanks to you brave pioneers, you brilliant electronical wizards, you selfless testers of your own airframes, and you magicians of the soldering iron for all you have done to get us this far . . . . .

NOW - ENOUGH BENCH TESTING ALREADY!!! Somebody throw one of these suckers in a spitfire, corsair, or P-40 and let's see if it flies!!!





Disclaimer: this post was written with full awareness of the fact that I have contributed nothing of value to this endeavor and that I am being an impatient, obnoxious typical American consumer who wants it NOW without contributing to the cause. Being completely ham fisted and confounded by electronics, I am utterly reliant on the huge brains and flashing abacus (abaci?) to figure this stuff out, and I'm DYING to see if this works. I can't be held responsible for my behavior.

So I got my 2s setup functional (Still waiting on a 1s ESC to try), and WOW its a freakin power house

At 1/2 throttle its probably producing 2x the thrust of the stock brushed motor.

At 3/4 throttle I'm crappin my self holding on to the gearbox with my fingers, it sounds amazing at that speed.

At full throttle it strips the thread on the prop, so far I have only had it a full throttle for maybe 2 seconds.

BUT

It gets extremely HOT even at 3/4 throttle, even after 10 seconds its almost too hot to touch. For the tests I was using the 3 blade eflite prop, which I think has the least thrust out of all the props, and a Nano-tech 300mah 35-70c 2s.

However my gearbox isn't very smooth, I think heating the pinion up red hot and sliding it off the brushed motor with a butter knife may have warped it a bit. I tried filing the teeth ever so slightly which helped but the prop still doesnt spin as freely as I'd like.

The 2s verdict, even if my gearbox was running smooth I think the motor would blow up after a minute at full throttle, or melt through the gearbox Someone else should do a quick 2s test though in case I'm wrong

Hot isn't good. I guess either lower kV or lower voltage.

Separate question, any chance of press fit prop directly onto motor shaft to eliminate more wear and tear parts? Without the 4:1gear reduction, even on 1s, its probably too much amps pull for motor to handle.

Originally Posted by dude_109

Hot isn't good. I guess either lower kV or lower voltage.

Separate question, any chance of press fit prop directly onto motor shaft to eliminate more wear and tear parts? Without the 4:1gear reduction, even on 1s, its probably too much amps pull for motor to handle.

If you were going to go direct drive youd be better off with an outrunner. Outrunners generally run cooler and have more torque.

But you could get a prop to fit on the shaft no worries. 5030 with a 1mm Plantranco prop adapter.

Originally Posted by UNGN

This is the best way to wire for 2S ....

UNGN,

I hope when all is sorted out that you'll do one of your excellent illustrations that shows and explains the final/best configuration.

Gene K