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Old Jan 29, 2013, 07:43 AM
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sarkantyu's Avatar
United States, MI, Lake Orion
Joined Feb 2004
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All time favorite.!Will be nice to see a light ,smaller version and electric.Still have a Pilot kit in a box.Joe
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 11:06 AM
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Merced,Ca.
Joined Jul 2006
412 Posts
Thanks Pat, I really enjoy reading your builds & building your planes. Looking forward to this one!
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 11:18 AM
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Albuquerque, NM USA
Joined Sep 2003
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Thanks for that video. It is a MUCH smaller airplane than I had thought. Should make a great flier.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 07:13 PM
This is a fine fiddly business
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United States, WA, Marysville
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 07:25 PM
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Albuquerque NM
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Charlie, Holy Cow! I didn't realize it was that small either. At 44" it makes the model 1:6 scale! No wonder it's such a "large small model".

PAT
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 07:27 PM
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Albuquerque NM
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Finishing Framing the Fuselage

Got the corrections made on the odd formers, then finished adding the last of the stringers. Once that was done the servo mounts were set up and the servos screwed in place.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 07:30 PM
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Albuquerque NM
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Mounting the Landing Gear and Setting Up the Bottom Wing Roots

The LG was lashed in place on the mount beams and the ribs glued in place. The gear will be covered with Microlite when the time comes.

The lower wing root extensions were built up next and dry fitted onto the fuselage frame held in place with the wing receiver tubes. So far, so good....
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 07:32 PM
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Albuquerque NM
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Setting Up the Motor Mount and Cowl

The cowl was set up with a pair of dowels to align it to the firewall, and is held in place with magnets.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 07:42 PM
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Albuquerque NM
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Setting Up the Top Wing Center Section

The top wing C-Section was built up first, then the cabane struts were shaped and soldered together. Now, to make bending the cabanes easier and MUCH more accurate, here's a trick I discovered awhile back -- it works for any biplane or parasol type model. It goes like this:

1- Make ONLY the bottom bend in each of the vertical struts
2- Bend the diagonal strut section
3- Solder the LH & RH assemblies together as seen in the photo by clamping the strut sections to wood blocks to keep them parrellel
4- Clearly mark on each of the four vertical struts where the top bend occures using the patterns on the plans
5- Insert the struts into their respective mounts on the fuselage
6- Now that you can clearly see the compound angles required to make all four vertical "mounting pins" parrellel at the top of the struts, make the top bend at the marks you made in step 4
7- Slip the top wing C-Section in place, then make any minor adjustments that might be needed.

The alignment jig will be used to do the final set up once the wings are mounted.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 07:46 PM
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Albuquerque NM
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Building the Tail Section

The vertical and horixontal stabilizers were built up over the plans. Since both are airfoiled shims are required to center the outline on the ribs and spars. Once the framing was done, the airfoil sections were sanded into the ribs that the hinges cut in and dry fitted.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 07:48 PM
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Albuquerque NM
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The First Dry Run

The only thing left to frame now are the 4 wing panels, so it looked like a good time to do a dry run with what is already done. At this point it's all looking pretty good, so will get started on the wings next. Stay tuned, this are moving along nicely now....

PAT
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 07:51 PM
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Lincoln, UK
Joined Jun 2005
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The Jungmeister's a lovely little aeroplane but let's not assume that a modern flying display of a 60+ year old airframe is fully indicative of just what it's capable of, it's a true snap-roller if ever there was one, I'd definitely be thinking of spruce spars and functional rigging if I wanted a true scale aerobatic performance. Here's a short clip of a comparatively new Jungmeister being put through it's paces in 1939, until the Pitts emerged, the Jungmeister was the most potent aerobatic biplane in the world, bar none!

Kunstflug 1939 (1 min 20 sec)
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 08:19 PM
Cut it twice, still too short
dglo's Avatar
Bay City, MI
Joined Oct 2007
647 Posts
Oh Yeah! I just finished my version of vonJaerschky's Jungmeister, now I get to watch Pat build his. Awesome! You're right Pat, it is a surprisingly big model. Mine(and vonJ's) is 58" span but the top wing is up to my knee, and I've heard the cowl will fit on a persons head! Looking forward to all of it but especially seeing how Pat does the fenders, and you have to include those Pat, they really set it off. Looks like you plan on having the wings removable in right, left pairs, like the Tiger moth?

Doug
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 08:54 PM
I eat glue
Canada, NS, Yarmouth
Joined Jul 2006
3,533 Posts
I think this version will do just fine at nice slow aerobatics. With it's weight it should do fairly gentle snap rolls too, if you can call a snap roll gentle.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 09:59 PM
This is a fine fiddly business
Robert R's Avatar
United States, WA, Marysville
Joined May 2009
1,463 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Tritle View Post
The top wing C-Section was built up first, then the cabane struts were shaped and soldered together. Now, to make bending the cabanes easier and MUCH more accurate, here's a trick I discovered awhile back -- it works for any biplane or parasol type model. It goes like this:

1- Make ONLY the bottom bend in each of the vertical struts
2- Bend the diagonal strut section
3- Solder the LH & RH assemblies together as seen in the photo by clamping the strut sections to wood blocks to keep them parrellel
4- Clearly mark on each of the four vertical struts where the top bend occures using the patterns on the plans
5- Insert the struts into their respective mounts on the fuselage
6- Now that you can clearly see the compound angles required to make all four vertical "mounting pins" parrellel at the top of the struts, make the top bend at the marks you made in step 4
7- Slip the top wing C-Section in place, then make any minor adjustments that might be needed.

The alignment jig will be used to do the final set up once the wings are mounted.
This kind of gold is exactly why I read these builds and build Pat's models.
Thanks, Pat.

Best,
Robert
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