Pat,

Really looking great. Nice work on the bottom hatch and LG farings. Those fibreglas spats look like they made short work out of the main LG.

George

I was told that the easy way to turn rubber items in a lathe is to pop them in the freezer overnight so they become solid. Stop machining when they thaw out and put 'em back to freeze again and continue.

Thanks Kiwi - I never thought of that - Doh!

George - yes, the FG parts made easy work for sure. I deviated from the plan a bit and made the wheels with plenty of clearance between them and the inside of the spats - my field always kicks up lots of gunk and spats clog easily!

Pat

Pat, I don't think anyone would have caught that extra clearance though.

I have herd of freezing rubber to machine it as well. Never tried it my self, but it's old school type machining methods. My lathe is 1948 Vintage Atlas 8x30.

I have cut my first peices of balsa for the Anson today... I'll begin a thread soon.

George

George - is this the Towner version you are going to build? Phooey - I'll have to do a tiny bit of Anson myself then
This picture just shows that a 70" Lizzie is not huge - it is a similar bulk to the Great Lakes Trainer which I flew several times yesterday - and still haven't scratched her

Pat

Pat,

Yes the Towner Plans enlarge to be 1" = 1'-0" (56.5" WS). As I recall the Lizzie, they have rather long WS. Thus the fuselage not quite so big.

George.

P.S. Don't get in a hurry to do the Hutson Anson, I don't want to see you take anything away from your Lizzie...

George - I was/am? thinking of doing the Towner plan for two IPS size motors as a precursor to the big one. But if I did that I'd maybe not get into the monster version!

The tail-wheel was kept simple to avoid weight but strong to take the abuse it will get! A horse-shoe-shaped wire axle/stirrup was brazed to a 5/32 collet and fixed to the shaft. When painted black, it wont be noticed. The wheel is 1.5" diameter and needs reducing slightly but again, no one will notice!

Now I'm thinking of the motor mount...

Pat

Nice work so far. The Lysander was one of those really interesting birds wit hth e odd wing shape...

Keep up the nice work brother!
Mark

Hi Pat,

Glad you've picked up the cudgels again - now I can ask you what you made of the label "Starboard panel" on the fuselage elevation drg! I thought it might be a doubler but you haven't built it that way, and I can't see why it would need a doubler there. I wonder if it's supposed to be a panel line?

I like where you've put the servos - I think I'll do the same and built the bottom skin as a hatch.

Just cutting the 3mm formers along the fuse formers before soaking some 3mm to skin the front section. Bought some soft 3mm sheet today. I'm blessed with an excellent model shop about 5 miles away. Even though every time I go in Martin tries to sell me a foamy Wot 4 - knowing full well he couldn't give me one!

Very impressed with your build quality - I hope I can get close!

Andy

Thanks Andy - the starboard side panels shown on the plan are several removable maintenance panels on the full size. They are fabric covered and quite prominent. I wasn't going to do them physically this time - maybe a fine black marker outline after painting. Same with the battery and access panels on the lower port side.

On a 'previous' model, I simulated the maint. panels with some extra stringers cut into the existing fore and aft ones. A lot of work for little gain - esp. when weight is crucial. Then again, I may reconsider before covering..............

Pat

Hi Pat,

Ah - OK, now I see. I'll have a think about the way you did it with a previous Lizzie - I can see what you did but not sure how that will look when covered with Solartex.

Incidentally, I often have misgivings about using Solartex because of the weight - but if I buy the ready coloured rolls then that saves paint weight. I've bought olive drab for the fuse and upper surfaces, and uncoloured for the u/side. I was going to paint this black, but I quite like the yellow/black diagonal stripes livery.

I like Solartex because the shrinkage is very controllable, and you can go back to it and shrink some more, and sometimes enough to take out wing warps etc. if a bit of remedial work is required. Not familar with the Polyspan (?) you use. If I want a shiny finish I use Oracover (used to be called Profilm over here).

Andy

Andy - polyspan is a tough tissue used quite a lot on larger electric models. It is very easy to use, has a textured (not woven) finish and easy to apply and dope/paint. Should be a fair bit lighter than Solartex (which is a very nice material too)

A simple box was made from 1/8 ply to support the Turnigy 4260-500 motor. The front mounting plate is a double ply thickness and angled at 2.5 deg down and to the right. Hopefully the prop is centred in the cowl opening.
A 15" prop on 3S seems to give plenty of grunt. We shall see!

Pat

Nice work Pat, Keep going...

George

maltone:

You "Lizzie" looks great keep up the good work! I have built the Frank Mizer one in the past and have plans for a 100" model that I have been contemplating. Did you mold those spats and cowl or is it available commercially. That might make the difference for me this time around.

Destrat - I started the Mizer version but the construction style didn't seem to suit me - plans and detail were great though.
This one is much smaller (70 v 87") and yes, cowl, spats and canopy are all available from Traplet. Around $150 for laser cut wood pack (great for the ribs), plans, one piece molded canopy (yippee!) FG spats and cowl. I felt it was goodvalue.....

A couple of small items to finish up an I'll get on with the wings. Here, Andy's build thread on RCMF will be very helpful

Pat

PS - progress is slow because it is mid-summer here and the garden growth rate is exceeding my endeavors to keep it under control........