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Old Jan 31, 2013, 12:07 AM
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Captain3D's Avatar
United States, CA, Glendale
Joined Jan 2012
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Thanks guys. Yes Larry I used the Michaels ply at first and it is fine. I am also using 4-40 bolts with nylon lock nuts.

You can mail order the ply that I use if you want the good stuff...

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...lickkey=340814

Ground shipping is about $16 for two 2' x 4' x 3mm. So about $80 all in.

phil

will try and get some motors and legs on tomorrow.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 03:12 AM
Custom quad builder
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United States, TX, Spring
Joined Apr 2012
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i hope you dont mind if i cut this
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 10:03 AM
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United States, MI, Haslett
Joined Mar 2010
325 Posts
cutting

I don't have a scroll saw so I am trying to cut this with a sabre saw and a metal cutting blade. It turns out ok except that I can't really get very accurate slots that on the top and bottom plate in the middle above and below the main middle cut out.
What is the purpose of these 1 inch slots?
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 01:06 PM
Custom quad builder
tech69x's Avatar
United States, TX, Spring
Joined Apr 2012
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The more I look the more I like I'm to mod a few things and cut it using g10 and use 3/4 tubes
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 05:37 PM
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Captain3D's Avatar
United States, CA, Glendale
Joined Jan 2012
933 Posts
Anyone feel free to use this for non commercial purposes and modify anyway you want. I should have explained all the parts at the start, but most of the fine details like slots for velco straps and the little side pick up handle or other side antenna hole etc could all be ignored or customized to you own needs.

Anyone cutting their own please feel free to add pics to this build log. I am interested to see it.

phil
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Last edited by Captain3D; Feb 08, 2013 at 06:58 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 05:38 PM
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Captain3D's Avatar
United States, CA, Glendale
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69x View Post
The more I look the more I like I'm to mod a few things and cut it using g10 and use 3/4 tubes
Would love to see that. I have cut one out of 3mm G10 but it is super heavy at 450 g just for the top and bottom plate. But the 3mm is still not that rigid.

phil
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 09:26 PM
Custom quad builder
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United States, TX, Spring
Joined Apr 2012
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I got most of it cut today I used .063 I made a few changes so I can use 3/4 tubbing
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 12:38 AM
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Captain3D's Avatar
United States, CA, Glendale
Joined Jan 2012
933 Posts
Post a pic of your layers - tech

Motors, Feet, and bits:

Nothing too exciting today just adding the motors and some of the electronics. I like these Piano wire feet. They are springy and strong and don't create any wind resistance. The flight controller is hot glued to some neoprene for a bit of vibration dampening. It is 'tied' to the frame with some loose zip ties just in case the glue breaks free.

Ignore the 'spare' holes in the arms they had been predrilled when I bought them for another frame. The aluminum is not very strong so I use the plywood motor plates to spread the load. I also solder the motors to the ESC's.I don't like bullet connectors coming loose.

cheers...phil
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Last edited by Captain3D; Feb 01, 2013 at 12:45 AM.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 08:14 PM
Real 3D FPV
luciduous's Avatar
Joined Jul 2007
70 Posts
Captn,
This is stacking up to be a great build!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain3D View Post
Does anyone want to see any more? Not sure if anyone is reading. If no one replies I am editing this last line out :-)
I'm paying attention, keep it coming.

You mentioned lasers being too expensive. If you ever make a few extra bucks, I found this laser cutter reasonably cheaper than most:

http://fslaser.com/products/40w-delu...ver-and-cutter

I know it does balsa and plastics, so it should do 3mm ply easy enough. If you ask me, it's a small price to pay (if you can pay) to do quick cuts, especially if it's taking you 3 hours a pop.

I'm looking at your controller pic... Is that the infamous CopterController? Are there any hidden cracks on the internet that still sell this controller. It's from OpenPilot, right? gee, those guys are like unicorns, you hear about them, but only rarely see them in action~
-luke
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 08:51 PM
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United States, MI, Haslett
Joined Mar 2010
325 Posts
Cc3d

In case you didn't know cc3d official clone boards can be gotten here.
http://www.drotek.fr/shop/en/149-fc-...openpilot.html
There is a reason they hold there value . I see old non 3d boards going for 80$ to 90$ which is more than they paid for them without shipping.

I just bought a scroll saw from Harbor Freight for 50$ with a 20% off coupon. I can do the straighter outside cuts easier and more accurate with a saber saw and metal cutting blade . The inside sharp cuts need the scroll saw. I am building all my stuff out of wood now to save money for components. I have a big octo I am building out of red cedar and ply for 8 avroto motors.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 10:26 PM
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Captain3D's Avatar
United States, CA, Glendale
Joined Jan 2012
933 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by luciduous View Post
Captn,
This is stacking up to be a great build!
-luke
Thanks Luke

I will keep updating. I like the idea of the laser cutter but I also secretly like the challenge of just cutting away by my own hand. If I ever wanted to make a hundred of them I would go the laser route.

Yes you are correct that is an OpenPilot CopterControl 3D. I was lucky enough to order two when the last batch was made. They have been more available than ever. I see them in the classifieds quite often and yes the Drotek mentioned by lklansingkiter is almost ready. There are four original coptercontrol boards in the classifieds right now and one CC3D just sold. Nothing wrong with the original CC.

cheers...phil
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 12:41 AM
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Captain3D's Avatar
United States, CA, Glendale
Joined Jan 2012
933 Posts
Wiring Tidy up:

I spent this evening connecting up the receiver, flight controller, antenna, ESC's and wrapping, velcroing and generally tidying up all the wires and securing connections.

I like everything to be as secure and failure proof as possible. That means no bullet connectors on the motors just direct soldered connections. Hot glue where it is needed and wrapping the ESC connectors into a single 'plug' so they don't work loose from the flight controller. Having gone through a few failures due to loose wires I now try to avoid it.

Then I had to run through the CC3D configuration aswell as my Dragonlink Rx binding and failsafe etc. Tomorrow I will put some props on and take it for a first flight before continuing on with the FPV and GoPro gear.

cheers...phil
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 12:26 PM
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United States, MI, Haslett
Joined Mar 2010
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I like the idea of soldering the connectors instead of using bullet connectors . How do you make sure the motors spin in the right direction before you solder. It seems like you did all the hookups before you tested this. I know from the past I usually have to switch the outside wires to make them turn correctly.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 05:06 PM
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Captain3D's Avatar
United States, CA, Glendale
Joined Jan 2012
933 Posts
your right it is almost impossible to get it correct first time. I get everything ready including the heat shrink and lightly solder so they are barely connected. I slide the heat shrink over the temporary joint to avoid shorting and then do my motor test. Any that are wrong I quickly switch then test again. Once all are confirmed working correctly I solder them for real.

I never put props on for rotation testing. Just use a bit of tape or paper. Much safer.

phil
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 05:09 PM
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Captain3D's Avatar
United States, CA, Glendale
Joined Jan 2012
933 Posts
First Flight Test:

I threw on some old props and took it out side for a test...

First Flight of 3D GoPro Quad (2 min 13 sec)


I had to add some weight for balance where the camera will go.

cheers...phil
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