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Old Mar 03, 2013, 06:50 PM
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~>Miha<~'s Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bricobrac View Post
Viacopter version handle the GP2 and maybe even the GP1 (sure for the DIY, for Viacopter gimbal i need to ask Jussi).
It was posted before...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JussiH View Post
Yes, there is individual front-pieces for all current versions of the GoPro cams. So there will be a version for Hero 1/2 and a version for Hero3.
and

Quote:
Originally Posted by JussiH View Post
The gimbal that will be launched soon is for GoPro cameras 1, 2 and 3.
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ~>Miha<~ View Post
It was posted before...



and
Thanks
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 07:13 PM
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Movie Guy's Avatar
Delta, BC, Canada
Joined Apr 2004
254 Posts
I *think* the GP 1 and GP 2 are physically the same size. I have a GP2 so I am patiently waiting for that gimbal. I don't know if I have the motor winding gene in me.....
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 07:18 PM
Begin with end in mind...
power's Avatar
Eagle Lake, Minnesota
Joined Apr 2003
5,613 Posts
Since I have time waiting for the board to arrive, I have been getting all my ducks in a row. Wires, button, gimbals, mounting hardware, and other odds and ends. After reading the tuning manual to the point of memorizing it It is pretty clear that the "Extended mode" for calibration is recommended. With that I was thinking that a level of small size would be pretty helpful. I happen to have an old plastic cheapo level that the bubble chambers pop out of. These little chambers only weigh 1 gram ea. 2 for the long one. I used a small amount of household Goop adhesive and attached one on the lower support arm of my gimbal.

It doesn't do much for aesthetics but it will certainly be functional. It will also allow me to quick reference the gimbal before each flight.

It's a cheap reference idea that could be applied to any gimbal, Just thought I would toss it out there.


Mike
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 08:11 PM
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Paris / Nice, France
Joined Aug 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ~>Miha<~ View Post
It was posted before...



and
Thanks for the info Miha

Best regards,
Fabien
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by power View Post
...With that I was thinking that a level of small size would be pretty helpful. I happen to have an old plastic cheapo level that the bubble chambers pop out of. These little chambers only weigh 1 gram ea. 2 for the long one. I used a small amount of household Goop adhesive and attached one on the lower support arm of my gimbal.

It doesn't do much for aesthetics but it will certainly be functional. It will also allow me to quick reference the gimbal before each flight.

It's a cheap reference idea that could be applied to any gimbal, Just thought I would toss it out there.


Mike
I saw these on another gimbal thread and thought they might help with the aesthetics.

Nic
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 09:53 PM
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Austin, Texas
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milouze View Post
Did you bought from CGSshop? 'cause on the board, scl and sda are reversed; that may lead to i2c errors.
Yes...from CGSshop.
Yes...I switched the cables. That wasn't the cause.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredrik R View Post
How long is your cable from the sensor to the board?
I think it was cable length. I am using servo cable wire and I just put a long 18" piece on there to test with. It didn't occur to me that would be the cause.
Now I have about a 7" piece on there. It still goes a bit crazy when I grab the wire...but when I just hold the sensor board...it seems to behave like I would expect, without random movements.

What is the max cable length I should use and is there something better to use than servo cable wire? Do I need something more insulated from outside interference?

Thanks guys.
Brent
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 01:28 AM
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Joined Sep 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tritan View Post
You are fast to hi-jack this thread but didnt bother to answer any of my emails regarding an interest I had in one of your multis a couple of weeks ago.....

If you claim to be a serious company go and start your own thread instead.
Hello, but sure I did not get your emails, we reply to emails daily.
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 03:06 AM
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ultrojo's Avatar
Malaysia, Johor, Johor Bahru
Joined Feb 2012
111 Posts
guys, help me to choose the suitable rewound motors.

which one good for tilt motor & which one good for roll motor.

1) motor 4006 with 0.21mm copper wire, 130 turns each one pole for nex5n size gimbal or similar
2) motor 4006 with 0.21mm copper wire, 150 turns each one pole for nex5n size gimbal or similar
3) motor 4008 with 0.21mm copper wire, 200 turns each one pole for nex5n size gimbal or similar

thanks in advance.
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 03:08 AM
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Joined Dec 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmsgodeep View Post
Yes...from CGSshop.
Yes...I switched the cables. That wasn't the cause.




I think it was cable length. I am using servo cable wire and I just put a long 18" piece on there to test with. It didn't occur to me that would be the cause.
Now I have about a 7" piece on there. It still goes a bit crazy when I grab the wire...but when I just hold the sensor board...it seems to behave like I would expect, without random movements.

What is the max cable length I should use and is there something better to use than servo cable wire? Do I need something more insulated from outside interference?

Thanks guys.
Brent
Try soldering 10K resistors in parallel to the I2C pullups on the sensor board.
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 05:21 AM
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Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by power View Post
Since I have time waiting for the board to arrive, I have been getting all my ducks in a row. Wires, button, gimbals, mounting hardware, and other odds and ends. After reading the tuning manual to the point of memorizing it It is pretty clear that the "Extended mode" for calibration is recommended. With that I was thinking that a level of small size would be pretty helpful. I happen to have an old plastic cheapo level that the bubble chambers pop out of. These little chambers only weigh 1 gram ea. 2 for the long one. I used a small amount of household Goop adhesive and attached one on the lower support arm of my gimbal.

It doesn't do much for aesthetics but it will certainly be functional. It will also allow me to quick reference the gimbal before each flight.

It's a cheap reference idea that could be applied to any gimbal, Just thought I would toss it out there.


Mike
Your gimbal looks great - minimalistic and yet fully functional - but it also looks like it's substantial enough to carry something much heavier than a GoPro. Could one that was much thinner (and lighter) still do as good a job? Would it also then work with smaller, lighter motors? I'm constantly on the look out for something as light as possible for the DJI Phantom.
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 06:15 AM
Begin with end in mind...
power's Avatar
Eagle Lake, Minnesota
Joined Apr 2003
5,613 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandigan View Post
Your gimbal looks great - minimalistic and yet fully functional - but it also looks like it's substantial enough to carry something much heavier than a GoPro. Could one that was much thinner (and lighter) still do as good a job? Would it also then work with smaller, lighter motors? I'm constantly on the look out for something as light as possible for the DJI Phantom.
It is very strong/stiff as it sits, I wanted small but yet I didn't want to get too thin as I have been down that road and things start to move/vibrate. I use a .1875 thickness on the frame since it is not a full box. I would think that going as low as .125 or even .0935 would work. I may try one after I get this one figured out

Mike
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 06:31 AM
Mental is Everything
HARWIND's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Termeil
Joined Oct 2011
9 Posts
Been busy over the last couple days and as a result we now have a gimbal.
It is based on RC Timer motors 2830/14, which are still to be rewound. That is the next job on the list. It is nothing fancy, just made up of what I had on hand, all constructed with hand drill, hacksaw and files. Oh, and of cause a big hammer . The whole gimbal with an old beat up GoPro Hero camera, weights in at 305 gms.
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 07:20 AM
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Joined Feb 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmsgodeep View Post
Yes...from CGSshop.
Yes...I switched the cables. That wasn't the cause.




I think it was cable length. I am using servo cable wire and I just put a long 18" piece on there to test with. It didn't occur to me that would be the cause.
Now I have about a 7" piece on there. It still goes a bit crazy when I grab the wire...but when I just hold the sensor board...it seems to behave like I would expect, without random movements.

What is the max cable length I should use and is there something better to use than servo cable wire? Do I need something more insulated from outside interference?

Thanks guys.
Brent
I tried a different cable but same length and had zero problem. So It also depends on the cable...
Firs cable I had was a thicker servo cable and that didn't work well. Tried a thinner with good results.
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 09:20 AM
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Austin, Texas
Joined Apr 2009
499 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredrik R View Post
I tried a different cable but same length and had zero problem. So It also depends on the cable...
Firs cable I had was a thicker servo cable and that didn't work well. Tried a thinner with good results.
Ok...good info.
I will try different/better cable and see if that eliminates it.

Thanks.
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