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Old Feb 01, 2013, 05:10 AM
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hehe Jussi my bad it really is clockwise,just look at picture again
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 05:40 AM
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[ATTACH]Name: motors-2.jpg
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Description: [/ATTACH]
Here is a couple of TM offerings, the MT4008 and a MT3506
I managed to shave some weight from the stator base plate. I was thinking that maybe I will replace the bearings with some instrument ones that have tighter clearance. The bearing housing comes out with a little heat BTW.
I was wondering if some kind soul could tell me how to wind the 18 pole motor in Star? using the attached photo.

Also any advice on where to start with winding count using .15 wire.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dennyrowland@mac View Post
[ATTACH]Attachment 5498659[/ATTACH]
Here is a couple of TM offerings, the MT4008 and a MT3506
I managed to shave some weight from the stator base plate. I was thinking that maybe I will replace the bearings with some instrument ones that have tighter clearance. The bearing housing comes out with a little heat BTW.
I was wondering if some kind soul could tell me how to wind the 18 pole motor in Star? using the attached photo.

Also any advice on where to start with winding count.
Ah, nice.. just gotta use a little more force and heat, I see - Ill revisit the MT2208 I tried to pull apart. Do keep us posted on your results with those!

Here is a tool you can use to generate a model of the particular motor you plan to turn.

In the case of the MT4008 that is a 18slot, 24 pole motor (18n24P)

http://i.caendle.de/dev/test2/?nuten=18&pole=24

The termination is determined by how you connect the phases together. To make a Star/WYE termination, you just solder all 3 phase ends together and bring out each phase start to the 3 wires going to the motor controller or ESC.

I cant give you a turn count, but 0.15 may be too thin... But try and make some tests and see how many turns you can get onto one arm and measure the resistance and lenght for that. Then you can multiply by 12 to estimate overall resistance between 2 phases.

As there are 6 arms per phase, the overall lenght of the phase will be 1/3 longer than on a similar stator with 4 arms per phase, and you need to consider that the resistance between two phases has to be somewhere in the 5-15 ohms range.

The syringe and hypodermic needle is an invaluable tool for turning these hyperthin wires evenly and tight to the stator.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 07:23 AM
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I just wanted to clarify...........the complete system i.e., gimbal, controller, motors (already wound) will be available soon? I've been trying to keep up with the motor winding stuff and I personally would rather purchase motors that have already been altered. Also, just for curiosity can you tell me what the purpose of rewinding is? Thanks in advance for your reply
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 07:25 AM
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JussiH Thanks for that.
I now have the information I need to make a good start.
The 4008 was a little more difficult than the 3506, so I held it in a 3 jaw lath chuck and eased it out in small increments all the way round. And used a heat gun. Do be careful as the plates are easily bent.

In the event that the Ohms fall just outside of the 5-15 range what is the consequence of that.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 08:44 AM
Jack
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(post deleted - I made a dumb mistake!)

Jack
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JussiH View Post
Yes, the topic here is Alexmos controllers, gimbals and motors from Viacopter, Flyduino and E-copter.

You need the controller, since it is what drives the motors. The controller relies on a MPU6050 gyro/accel chip for positional feedback from the camera.

The gimbal controller can work in a standalone configuration, but can also be hooked up to the gimbal output of your FC, to increase the position accuracy of the gimbal. You can also control Pitch and Pan (no Pan driver, yet) from an RC channel.

All the videos on page 1 was shot with the controller standalone and not hooked to the Autoquad FC.

The system will work with any FC that I am aware of on the current market.
Thanks for the detailed explanation!

G
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 09:26 AM
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Sebastian,

Have you wound that wind that way and used it? And did it run OK?
aABbCcAaBbCc and it is different from the above:

aABbCcAaBbCc = your notation

Jack
Pls look again, I get this when I annotate that drawing, which is the same basic thing as the test2 calculator shows.

aABbcCAabBCc
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 10:07 AM
Jack
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Originally Posted by JussiH View Post
Pls look again, I get this when I annotate that drawing, which is the same basic thing as the test2 calculator shows.

aABbcCAabBCc
You are right of course. I am embarrased! It was my error that cause the unbalanced wind, not the way it was wound.

Thanks for pointing that out quickly.

What caught my eye on his image is that it starts on arm #1 and goes to arm #2 and then transits to #7 and then #8. The image over my workbench for a dLRK wind is not that way. It starts on #2 goes to #1, then transits to #7 and #8. And it does all three starting ends that same way. You can see it below...

But now I realize that it does not have to be that way. I am older and smarter again. I am going to clean up my collection of winding images and use only the test2 images from now on...

Jac
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 10:21 AM
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Buying ready wound motors?

Hi
This is somewhat interesting, but i'm not sure i'm the type doing this kind of hobbywork. Is it possible to buy this gimbalmotors somewhere, and what is a good and what is a bad motor/wound, and can one put this motors on gimbals for servos to ?

J
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 10:23 AM
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A heat gun will melt the epoxy on the windings. I usually clamp a shaft in the vise, put the motor on the shaft, heat the windings until the epoxy is soft, and then it unravels fairly evenly.
The trick is to start with the top layer obviously, and when it gets too hard to pull the wires out hit it with the gun again.
If you break the wires it becomes a bit trickier.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 10:25 AM
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Jack, no problem, but I bet you scared Sebastian for a while there...BTW, I do have an Eagletree logger, so I am gonna throw that on and make some current measurements in our setup...battling the clock a little bit here, though.

Using a quite bit more brute force and some more heat, I also managed to pull a MT2208 apart and get the copper out without damaging the stator... so I am gonna wind that one tonight...

Thanks to Denny for pointing it out. Looking forward to seeing the results with the 3506 and 4008 motors.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Ramnes View Post
Hi
This is somewhat interesting, but i'm not sure i'm the type doing this kind of hobbywork. Is it possible to buy this gimbalmotors somewhere, and what is a good and what is a bad motor/wound, and can one put this motors on gimbals for servos to ?

J
There will be custom motors made available. I hope to get the first prototypes next week.

Balance is very important for this to work - I dont think most servodriven gimbals can be adapted, since they by nature is not adjustable.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 10:50 AM
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2 x http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=22182
rewind + controller + my 5 gimbal lol.
Waiting for motors to balance gimbal with Gopro on it.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 11:03 AM
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Admire your enthusiasm but that gimbal will not work. It's unbalanced in everyway possible. Direct drive gimbals must be perfectly balanced in order to work with good results.

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Originally Posted by marcin.gala View Post
2 x http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=22182
rewind + controller + my 5 gimbal lol.
Waiting for motors to balance gimbal with Gopro on it.
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