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Old Jan 20, 2013, 10:10 PM
Frank
Germany, BW, Heubach
Joined Dec 2012
928 Posts
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Originally Posted by arrowshooter View Post
Hmmmmmmmmmmmm. And I have a 90 degree swash coming. Should be pretty easy to adjust the swash height with 6mm O.D. tubing to lock in the pitch.
That will be interesting man
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 10:22 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2012
51 Posts
Hi, followed you guys here from the original mjx f45 thread, I am really interested on the 450FP mod using clone 450's. Sir would you mind posting a step by step tutorial on how it is done please, I am new to FP helis but I would rather upgrade to 450FP once my stock f45 starts to break, but i plan to start getting the parts for the modifications. Thanks.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 11:48 PM
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United States, CA, Modesto
Joined Aug 2012
828 Posts
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Originally Posted by nolivy View Post
Hi, followed you guys here from the original mjx f45 thread, I am really interested on the 450FP mod using clone 450's. Sir would you mind posting a step by step tutorial on how it is done please, I am new to FP helis but I would rather upgrade to 450FP once my stock f45 starts to break, but i plan to start getting the parts for the modifications. Thanks.
Welcome over here. I will put together a step by step and post it here for you soon. I will try to be as thorough as I can and include pics. Give me a day or so.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 01:54 AM
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Ukraine, Crimea, Bakhchysarai
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by arrowshooter View Post
Welcome over here. I will put together a step by step and post it here for you soon. I will try to be as thorough as I can and include pics. Give me a day or so.
that what I was shy to ask about. Even though I'm not a racer(I only hover or move slowly) as I stick with F45 to find stable areal videography platform. I also try quads as most videographers advise but heli has advantage (you always see where's tail) and particularly fixed pitch flybar one will never flip no matter what happens (sometimes I fly so high that I can't see it). So fixed pitch 450 could be even better platform I'm only concerned about price and skills needed.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 02:03 AM
Frank
Germany, BW, Heubach
Joined Dec 2012
928 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by asanovrus View Post
that what I was shy to ask about. Even though I'm not a racer(I only hover or move slowly) as I stick with F45 to find stable areal videography platform. I also try quads as most videographers advise but heli has advantage (you always see where's tail) and particularly fixed pitch flybar one will never flip no matter what happens (sometimes I fly so high that I can't see it). So fixed pitch 450 could be even better platform I'm only concerned about price and skills needed.
Hey Man,

Ya look on ebay, and find a 450 cheap,(mine was 3euro + 7,50 shipping)
everything but electrics. Comes from china, but who cares.

Have fun looking dude

Frank vonHellsing
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 05:09 AM
Frank
Germany, BW, Heubach
Joined Dec 2012
928 Posts
Here is a little taste of how this whole heli will look like, not finised polishing but almost.
Frank
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 06:36 AM
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Ukraine, Crimea, Bakhchysarai
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Originally Posted by R.C. Man View Post
Hey Man,

Ya look on ebay, and find a 450 cheap,(mine was 3euro + 7,50 shipping)
everything but electrics. Comes from china, but who cares.

Have fun looking dude

Frank vonHellsing
Found only $50 but that still is very good if I had a chance to make it work. How to get the rest to make it fly? Can't wait for tutorial or smth.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 06:43 AM
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United States, FL, Hernando
Joined Sep 2012
1,460 Posts
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Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
How you like the FBL.
I am just gathering pieces to do the HK500 FBL. A buddy of mine did the 450 and said the quality of pieces was much better than the earlier builds he did.
I really love the ZYX on this HK450, very smooth and ultra responsive.

The 450 was just a basic $27.00 model, not bad for the price but the plastic tail assy is junk ( I got a V2 assy from them) and the main shaft was bent. The tail belt drive gear woobles pretty good but works fine.

The head conversion kit I got was from HK also for 10 bucks and is a nice enough set up, tho it does sit up higher than the Tarot FBL head.

This was my first attempt at building a ground up FBL, so I wanted to keep it relatively cheap, for the learning curve anyway.

All in all, I'm extremly pleased with the outcome and now have the confidence to go for some higher end builds.

Good luck on the 500, please keep us informed as to how its coming together.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 12:01 PM
Frank
Germany, BW, Heubach
Joined Dec 2012
928 Posts
Well,
I went and started a business today

Looks promising here, built a big room 8x20 meters, will be my shop.(sorry yall, its in Germany)
Isn't finished yet, but will be new and nice, all tools and machines for building and
repairing rc stuff, and a sales room with someone who just dont wanna make a buck on ya, who gives good (free ) advice on what you really want and what your needs are.

The name you can guesse

R.C. Prototype Development Center

Yep I put it in the bow and was accepted by the mayor here.
He said , we havent got something like that around here ,so go for it.
So I did

Wish me luck with my shop, and I promise i wont forget yall

Frank

R.C. Prototype Development Center
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 12:28 PM
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United States, FL, Hernando
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Good luck on your new business venture Frank , I hope you become a huge success over there.

I imagine you'll be busy to begin with but try to keep us up to date with how things are going ....... dont forget all your buds in here.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 12:40 PM
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United States, CA, Modesto
Joined Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R.C. Man View Post
Here is a little taste of how this whole heli will look like, not finised polishing but almost.
Frank
Nice! Right on to your new business. How about a prototype F45 main blade holder with a 5 degree offset to be used "flybarless" with standard style heli blades? That would be a good prototype type thingy.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 12:56 PM
Frank
Germany, BW, Heubach
Joined Dec 2012
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Awww, I wont or cant forget yall,

Thanks for the booster shot.

Have ta wait on the FBL FP but is a GOOD idea.

Frank
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 01:12 PM
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United States, CA, Modesto
Joined Aug 2012
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Building The F45/450

The F45/450 Build

Hopefully this will help other MJX F45 owners with their own conversion to the F45/450.

First off, you should already know the ins and outs of the F45. If do not fully understand how it operates, and you cannot completely strip it, put it back together and have it fly first try, then this may not be something that you want to take on yet. The F45/450 is the same heli on a larger scale, and once you master one, they are very much the same.

Things you will need:

F45 helicopter parts: PCB, Rotor Head w/Blades and Swashplate, Servos and Tail motor section.
Trex 450 clone Kit, or similar, that will supply you with the chassis, tail boom, main shaft w/bearings and gearing.
450 size brushless motor and speed control. You can figure something like 3600kv motor, or faster, and 40A SC.
6mm tubing with at least a 5mm I.D.
Basic know how, ingenuity and patience.

Start out by building your 450 chassis. This will give you a good idea as to how things will lay out.

Next, strip the F45 of the parts I have listed above and set them all aside except for the rotor assembly, that’s first. Keep the tail motor assembly attached to the boom for now.

The main shaft on the 450 is 5mm where the shaft on the F45 is 6mm. You are going to need to take up that slack and it needs to be tight. There are different ways of doing this and some trial and error is involved I found that a section of an old TX antenna shaft is exactly 6mm O.D., but the inside diameter is about 5.5mm. You only need to make sure you cover down past the swash plate, but I chose to go full length. Next slide the tubing all the way up inside the F45 rotor head. It needs to go all the way in because the screw hole on the 450 main shaft is almost at the end and you need the support to keep it from wobbling. Drill an appropriate size hole in the tubing through the hole in the mounting holes F45 rotor head. Next, I used a piece of shrink tubing that was just big enough to slide down the 450’s main shaft. I left it a little long so it would shrink a little over the end of the shaft. I put a match to it, let it cool then poked hole where the mounting hole is. Now gently slide the F45 rotor assembly with tubing and swashplate down over the shrink tubing. Try to eyeball where the holes are going to line up so you don’t have to twist it around too much. When the holes line up put your screw through it and give it a spin to make sure it is straight and that step is done.

Now for the tail motor assembly. The tail boom of the F45 is quite a bit smaller than that of the 450. Again, there are a number of ways that you can make this adaptation, but I believe that it is easiest to slide one tube inside the other. Before you remove the tail motor assembly from the F45 tail boom, measure approximately 1 1/5” in front of the plastic housing and make a mark. This is where you are going to cut the F45 tail boom. Now remove the assembly from the F45 boom and cut off the piece of boom at the mark. Cut it as square as you can and smooth off the inside and outside edges. Now reattached the motor assembly to the piece of Boom you just cut off. To take up the space between the two booms, I first put on a single layer of scotch tape then used a piece of shrink tubing over that making sure there was just enough to shrink over the end. You want this to be as snug as possible, so again, trial and error is in order. Once you have it in place and lined up vertically, you can drill a hole in the inside piece through the hole in the side of 450 boom and put on of the chassis screws from the F45 to keep it all in place. You are going to need to lengthen the tail motor wires approximately 6” to reach the PCB.

Mounting the PCB is pretty simple. I used a piece of foam and a zip tie, but you can also make stand-offs like on the F45. In fact, if you are sure you will never go back to the F45, you can cut the whole mounting piece off the F45 and glue it to the 450’s spot under the battery tray. Your call.

Servo mounting is pretty straight forward accept for one thing. If you choose to mount the servos as per normal with the elevation servo in the rear, you will need to reverse the direction of how the aileron servo moves because it will be backwards. There are two ways that you can do this: One is to reverse the wires on the aileron pot in the TX as Oldoz has done (two wires), or you can rewire the servo as I have done (four wires). You can do a search for “reversing a servo” on this site, or I believe that OldOz has posted his method on the F45 thread. If you are not comfortable enough with a soldering iron, you can switch positions of the two servos with the elevation servo mounted on the front and they will operate normally. As for servo linkage, you may need to fabricate something that works as you are now dealing with the need for a longer rod. A standard F45 will work for the aileron, but I used the linkage rod off a DH9104 for the elevation. You should also lengthen the aileron servo arm.

Once you decide how you want the servos mounted, you will tackle the antirotation bracket. As the name implies, this keeps the swashplate from rotating. Look at how the bracket is positioned on the F45 so you have an idea as to what you need to do. There are a number of ways that this can be done. I chose to start from scratch with a piece of plastic, but you can use any material that you have at hand, or you can buy one already made for another heli and adapt it to your model with epoxy or screws. It does not have to be perfect, but it does need to be functional and durable.

Well, you are pretty much there. You need to mount up the motor and ESC you bought, run your wires and connect them to the PCB as on the F45. If your kit did not come with a canopy, you will need one of those. Level your swash and go flying.

The photos were not taken during the build and not in any particular order, but you will know which is which. I show the servo mounting in both configurations so you can note the placement of the antirotation bracket. If anyone else would like to post photos and add thoughts of their individual mods, please do. Mine is only one way of many.

Now you own a F45/450, Enjoy!
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 05:22 PM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
G'day all.
Heck of a thing to wake up to - 3 pages already! - Really great start, arrowshooter.
Will post my own build a bit later, still working on the BL tail idea first (as it might help the guys over on the old thread). Rebuilt and working, but still a bit of tail wag I'd like to get rid of.

And good to hear you're getting that business off the ground, Frank. Keep the approach you outlined to me in your PM, you can't fail.
Far too many 'give us your money and get out' shops imo. Biggest one here (in North Brisbane) seems to have exactly that approach, no idea how they stay in business.
Best to all .
John
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 05:35 PM
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United States, CA, Modesto
Joined Aug 2012
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Hey OldOz. Flew both 450s at the park yesterday. The full belt driven conversion is definately more responsive than the F45/450 but both are a gas to fly. Lost the aileron servo off the belt drive heli making it very fun to get back down but no crash. Might need to buy more expensive servos.
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