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Old Jan 31, 2013, 06:46 AM
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I have been working on a electric version of the .60 300S. Using a Bigfoot .60.
Still in the covering stages, been shelved since last spring.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Xanadu View Post
I have been working on a electric version of the .60 300S. Using a Bigfoot .60.
Still in the covering stages, been shelved since last spring.
Xanadu,

Well get it out and finish it up!!! you can always ship it down here!



I started loosely assembling the Fuse tonight, I wanted to stare at it for awhile to decide how to make it electric friendly.

Due to work it may be this weekend before I have an update but the fun has started!

- S
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 09:19 PM
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Finishing Fuse and WIng getting close!

well lots of little details this weekend, every time I think I'm done with the wing there is a little more to do!

While aligning the wing to the Fuse spacer blocks that were eventually glued to the wing were put on either side of the fuse. In addition a 1/32nd extra piece was added to make a tight fit.

I drilled the single wing bolt hole after assembling the hardwood that make the hold down, the instructions said to drill and tap the wood, I opted for a blind nut. it didn't work out pretty but it will be covered by the wing

after getting the wing aligned, putting in the bolt, and verifying the wing was centered (about 50 times) it was time to build the framing for the bottom of the wing.

Nothing too exciting, everything fit pretty well, a few tweaks here and there but it went well, the hardest part was waiting for glue to dry in the areas I used 30 min Epoxy.

After all the framing was done it was time to cut and apply the "Chines", being my second kit it was the first time I had used this method and it worked well. The Chines take up the space between the sides and the bottoms.

Turned out pretty good, I used a balsa plane to strip down the wood and then sand it. Lotsa sanding but no where near as much as my GP Sportster!

Anyway, look at the pics. very soon I will have to stare at it for a good amount to time to figure out how to make a battery hatch, at first guess it may be difficult based on how the turtle deck Canopy and forward turtle deck are build.... May have to get creative, Since this part will be the deviation form the plans (to make it electric) I'll do a better job of documenting and picture taking!

Till next time, - S
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 12:13 PM
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The battery hatch is also the one thing holding me back. Been thinking about that one for a while now. Be nice to see what you come up with.

Been thinking about making the hatch in the top forward deck just behind the cowl, but I need to fit it all togeather first, and mount electronics, and motor to see if the COG will let me put the battery there.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 06:41 PM
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The battery hatch is also the one thing holding me back. Been thinking about that one for a while now. Be nice to see what you come up with.

Been thinking about making the hatch in the top forward deck just behind the cowl, but I need to fit it all togeather first, and mount electronics, and motor to see if the COG will let me put the battery there.
Yea it's going to be interisting for sure, perhaps we can put our heads together and get something cool figured out!

prolly wont work on it until this weekend but I'm gonna stare at it a lot

More as I figure it out.

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Old Feb 19, 2013, 09:06 PM
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Cowl - canopy, stringers and stuff......

OK I assembled the cowl, and found a fiberglass alternative but I'll roll with the GP one for now.

Being the first time having to assemble a two piece cowl, I was not impressed but it worked out OK and should be decent looking.

I roughly cut the canopy to see how it fits, I assembled the front stringers BUT I did NOT glue them to the fuse, they are removable.

I'm basically staring at it trying to figure out how to make a Battery hatch, possibly the cowl gets cut a bit in from and the stringer, and canopy will be one piece?

Hmmm......

Opinions, ideas, dynamite, all thoughts are welcome.

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Old Feb 20, 2013, 06:25 AM
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My thought for battery hatch is the section directly behind the cowl. There is a nice deep hollow under it for the batterys to lay down in at an angle. Need to mount a tray though to strap them to.
That is how I curently have my GP P-51 set up.
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Xanadu View Post
My thought for battery hatch is the section directly behind the cowl. There is a nice deep hollow under it for the batterys to lay down in at an angle. Need to mount a tray though to strap them to.
That is how I curently have my GP P-51 set up.
Yea the more I look at it, I'm thinking about creating 3 additional former's....

One maybe an inch behind the front one, then another one immediately after that, Cut out that section and glue it to the Fuse (the part that goes under the Cowl)

Then the middle section that is exposed (not covered by the Cowl or the Canopy) make that a removable hatch, put another former just before the part that goes under the canopy.

It will be small but as long as I can fit a 6S battery in there I'll be good.

Will have to cut one piece of light ply between the frame sides on top but that should not be an issue.

Then on the sides where you are supposed to glue the balsa sticks to make the rounded transition from Fuse to forward turtle deck figure out a good bracket for the magnets. perhaps a hatch latch but I like magnets I did that on my sportster with much success.

Will stare more and perhaps make up a drawing if the is not clear what I typed above.

I usually spend 10 times as much time thinking than doing :-) I just need to do it!

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Old Feb 20, 2013, 12:22 PM
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Kinda like this

OK this is lame but get the point across.

The Blue area, is under the cowl, the Black are is the removable hatch, the red area is under the canopy.

Click the Pic to see it full size makes more sense

Looks like it leaves roughly 8-9 inches for battery access, that should be plenty.

I did not glue down the Nitro Tank shelf yet so I could customize it a bit or make a new one to strap the battery to and provide a little protection in case of an oopsie.

I'm thinking it's going to be Nose heavy anyway, I'm going to get a rough CG measurement next and if so I'd like to Sheet the tail feathers just because... better than adding Lead :-)

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Old Feb 20, 2013, 08:27 PM
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Very nice, I like it.

I think I'm going to roll with it, but I'm going to mount the tail feathers first so I can get a more semi-accurate measurement of CG before I go too much farther.

I pulled the tail off the shelf just now and I don't need to sheet the tail it's pretty tough, I may do the vert. stab. because I have a tendency to nose over with a nose heavy plane... not sure plenty of time for that as well. I'll create a template before I put it together so I have it if I decide to do it. 1/32 or 1/16 Balsa sheet wont add much weight at all.

I'm not sure if I'm going to sheet the whole hatch, then cut it or cut it and put in former's then sheet it.

I think it makes sense to sheet it then cut it but I'll have some time to think about it I prolly wont get the tail together until Saturday.

Thank for the pics!

I'm dying to build a mustang, it's my favorite plane of all time, when I was little I could tell you ever revision, motor, everything about them

I build better than I fly right now, actually I fly good I need more confidance....

From what I understand they are great fliers but require a bit of speed for flight and landing and I'd hate to crash it the first go around :-) - Been there done that with my first big ARF a Z-LIN

Thanks again I apprecaite the work

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Old Feb 22, 2013, 08:17 PM
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Small setback

well I wanted to mount the motor ESC and the rest of the goodies to get a good idea of where balance is....

notice I said wanted

My Great Planes Rimfire .55 motor purchased new from the main supplier was defective.

it had a grinding feeling to it so I took it apart to see what was up, the glue they use to balance the motor was sticking up a bit to high and rubbing on teh stator no real big deal I scrapped it off thinking everything was good.

Then upon reassembly I found that the screw holes to mount it to the X-Mount were NOT tapped, IE no threads.

These motors are not cheap I recently decided to buy them so I didn't have these issues. I've actually never had an issue with cheap motors but wanted to be sure......

So it's going back and I'm going to use a cheapo motor I have purchased in the past and I may just go back to cheap motors, it's not the first issue I've had with RimFire out of 4 I've owned I've had two issues and I've never had an issue with cheap motors.... That will teach me to try to spend my money on better stuff

So I need to redo my Blind nuts because the motor I'm going to use is slightly bigger 5045 instead of 4260 so I'll figure that out tomorrow and hopefully get a chance to check CG as it is now.

Rant over kind of upsetting spending big money to avoid issues and having more issues than with cheapos.

I looked at EFlight Motors because guys in the club have never had an issue with them, they are even more money and have a collet instead of a bolt on prop adapter, it's a personal thing I'l rather have a bolt on adapter than a collet.

anyway..... More as I have something.

Interested in anyone else opinion on "better" motors, ever have issues that you figure you were avoiding?

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Old Feb 27, 2013, 07:16 PM
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To CG or not to CG that is the question

Also know as how OCD are you?

OK well with the Motor setback I decided to roll with a slightly larger cheaper EMP 5045 I'm really hoping this works out OK, if not I think I can reverrse the procedure without too much damage. The X-Mount was slighty larger.

Basically I figured out where the Horiz. Stab needed to be and glued some triangle stock on the bottom so that I can quickly put it into place when glueing.

Then I figured out the Spacing on the Motor mount and found a piece of PVC pipe that is slightly smaller than the bolt pattern on the X- Mount and grooved it silightly so bolts went in straight.

NOTE: the grooves on the Inside were from how I would have mounted it with the RimFire .55. - Pictured is the .55 setup before I found out it was FUBAR for the replacement motor the bolts go on the outside of the PVS with slight grooves cut to fit.

Then I covered the tail feathers, I have learned that it is much easier to do now then after mounting them and I think they turned out great, I put Monokote on all edges firmly ironing it down and then cut the top covering carefully to mate up to the edge, it looks good and I think it will work out fine, I concentrated on having much less waste than I have in the past and so far I believe I have done a better job at conserving resources.

Last few pics are my obsessiveness on being sure everything is level before I glue the stab... which is drying as I type... Better run and check it BRB.... Yup still straight
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Old Feb 28, 2013, 06:21 AM
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So the motor plate adaper is 1/2" shorter than plans state? How you going to make up for that? You will have the suck the cowl in 1/2" or make a spacer plate to shove the motor out the 1/2" required.
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Old Feb 28, 2013, 06:15 PM
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So the motor plate adaper is 1/2" shorter than plans state? How you going to make up for that? You will have the suck the cowl in 1/2" or make a spacer plate to shove the motor out the 1/2" required.
Xanadu,

Wellllll here is the theory and if you think I'm full of it please feel free to say so.

I've only bee doing this 3 years, built prolly 20 different aircraft, mostly Foamies and ARF's so that is where I'm at.

Due to hardware on hand and not wanting to wait a week, because we really don't have a viable LHS, I figured it's a 1/2 inch short, I'll move the cowl back a bit and if necessary trim it down.

In my mind this moves the heavy weight closer to CG therefore reducing the possibility of needing to add weight to the tail. I am thinking this bird is going to be nose heavy already so that is how I processed it.

I have glued the tail feathers on, put on the turtle deck but I have not sheeted it yet.

I added a medium weight Balsa block (about a 1/4 oz) in the bottom rear of the fuse to bolt the Sullivan Tail wheel to, I think I'm going to use some light balsa block to take the place of the sheeting that goes to top of the horiz. stab and next to the Vert. stab as I have read this was a weak point.

This added weight might equal it all out, and I hope to be able to loosely assemble it in a day or two to see where it balances and then decided if I want to sheet the rear turtle deck, or just cover it with Monokote.

The only concern I have with covering it it I am unclear if that sheeting adds to structural strength.

SO that is where I'm at.... I confirmed what I suspected I have a slight twist in the Fuse not too bad but I was sure to align the flying surfaces as needed so it may look a little funny flying but should fly straight.

I have managed to twisted the frames of both builds, so that is something I need to work on in the future, my first build was about the same and on Maiden I needed two clicks elevator and it flies perfect otherwise.

I'm having fun and learning and that is really what it's all about, I get better at something every time!

- S
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