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Old Jan 16, 2013, 08:56 PM
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Help!
Fuji Model BT-32B

Ok, I just got this motor off of eBay. Nice clean unused motor, that I'd like to use with either my Nosen Mr. Mulligan or an Ikon N'West Monocoupe D-145. These are 100" wing span cabin jobs with big cowls. It would be nice if it had a separate ignition system but these short nosed planes probably can cope with the flywheel magneto out front. I was surprised to see so much shaft sticking out the back of the motor.

What don't I know about this engine. It's Ok I can take it. Lay it on me.

Best Regards, Cliff Campen
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Last edited by Cliffc; Jan 16, 2013 at 08:57 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 09:07 AM
WCB
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Good news first....they run pretty good. Bad news...they don't make a lot of power, they are very heavy and they have been discontinued so it will be hard to find parts for them. They work great in a plane that needs the weight in the nose and doesn't require a lot of power.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 11:42 AM
<>< AKA W4BPS
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I had one in a 100 inch Decathlon I picked up at a swap meet. It flew fine and I liked it a lot. One day the dreaded "brown out"/ or some radio problem, killed the model and the motor. Brian
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 08:54 AM
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Cliff, it is a 1.952 cu. in. engine, if it is anything like the 50 it will run very smoothly and idle very slowly and sip gas. Depending on the year it was made it may or may not have auto retarding on the timing, if it does it will idle super smoothly and rev quickly. The 50 I had was sold by Byron Originals and they called it the Mustang 50. Mine had fixed timing.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 10:48 AM
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I have one I'm totally happy with..It's in a Great Planes Super Stearman ARF....To the 3-d'ers it's a piece of lead- to the guys who have the ability to fly scale-like,it's a real joy...
There was a crankcase recall,years ago...The owner of mine gave it up in fear of oil leakage..I'm STILL waiting for it to happen.. Zero problems after 3 years and many flights.
I just bump it with the starter and go,I don't know about timing or all that.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 06:29 PM
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Not powerful is a load of bunk. The 32s are actually 34s. They corrected all the mislabeling in later versions. I had one in a 97", 16+lbs, RCGuys Agwagon and I lOVED it. I flew the plane through some telephone wires but the engine lives on. It had plenty of power for long verticle wingovers. I used the long shaft and attached a spring starter. Started first try every time. Mine was the 32b with the ATM module. I never tried to hand start it without the spring starter but guys say you can. My spring starter came from B&B as it was cheaper than the Fuji from towerhobbies. B&B is gone I think but check Tower, they may still have available other wise save the weight and use a starter like Earl suggested.

The negatives were the heavy cylinder and the replacement parts were prices were outta sight. Mount solidly to a sturdy FLAT firewall and use it til it dies......if ever but don't let anyone fool that it doesn't have enough power. Mine pulled me out of trouble more than once.

Mike
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 06:42 PM
<>< AKA W4BPS
USA, TN, Tullahoma
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B&B is back..

B&B is again open for business. Brian


Quote:
Originally Posted by CryHavoc View Post
Not powerful is a load of bunk. The 32s are actually 34s. They corrected all the mislabeling in later versions. I had one in a 97", 16+lbs, RCGuys Agwagon and I lOVED it. I flew the plane through some telephone wires but the engine lives on. It had plenty of power for long verticle wingovers. I used the long shaft and attached a spring starter. Started first try every time. Mine was the 32b with the ATM module. I never tried to hand start it without the spring starter but guys say you can. My spring starter came from B&B as it was cheaper than the Fuji from towerhobbies. B&B is gone I think but check Tower, they may still have available other wise save the weight and use a starter like Earl suggested.

The negatives were the heavy cylinder and the replacement parts were prices were outta sight. Mount solidly to a sturdy FLAT firewall and use it til it dies......if ever but don't let anyone fool that it doesn't have enough power. Mine pulled me out of trouble more than once.

Mike
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
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B&B is again open for business. Brian
Sweeeeeet! They have alot of really useful stuff.

Mike
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 09:05 AM
WCB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliffc View Post
I was surprised to see so much shaft sticking out the back of the motor.

Best Regards, Cliff Campen
That's something I forgot to mention. I think they are like 8'' from back plate to the prop hub? I may be thinking about a different one.
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 11:26 PM
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The shaft is there as Fuji sold accessories that would use it, ie. the spring stater, and they use to sell an on board starter. In any case cut it off if you don't need it. I've seen guys do that as well. Use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and work slow. Let it cool every now and then.

Mike
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 09:00 AM
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It is about 8" overall,and the muffler's near the firewall,and cutting off the rear of the shaft wouldn't change a thing,because the muffler's still there.
It won't fit every application,but the ones it does fit,it serves very well.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 09:11 AM
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Cliff, I'd use the Fugi in your Monocoupe. I have a B&B G 38 in my IKON 90A, and it balances perfectly.

Yours should be similar.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 05:11 PM
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Fuji Engine

Gentleman, Thank you for the feed back. Yeah, I kind of figured that cutting off the shaft extension wouldn't gain me much. It's a good report card for the kinds of kits that I have that need engines. I probably need to pull the plans and see how the overall length will play into these short nosed planes. I did get the long cowl for the Mulligan from Fiberglass Specialties and so I can probably accommodate the engine, but I'd wanted to keep it as short as possible to make it a bit closer to scale.

Earl re your Citbria/Decathlon build the Mulligan is a pre AA industries Nosen kit.

I also scored a Zenoah G-45 which might be a good fit for the Mulligan. I'd thought to use a Super Tigre 3000 but was advised it was a bit of a fuel hog sadly I've got four of these in various conditions from NIB to a little tired.

I started punching the parts out and cutting the ABS cowl and wheel pants for a Dynaflight Super Decathlon today and maybe I'll move the Super Tigre 3250 to that model as at least I can put a pretty big tank in that as I am not going to get too wild and crazy with the cockpit. The reference glow engine for the plane is an OS 1.2 4-stroke which I've also got so we'll see.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 06:15 AM
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Cliff- I'm doing a 1/4 scale Monocoupe at 'Scale fuel planes' ...Some good information there on engine 'set-back' to maintain proper prop placement he he.

Mount the engine where it needs to be first, then tanks and linkage can be worked out later.
Either of your gas engines will do fine in the MR.Mulligan.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 01:45 PM
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More Questions on the Fuji BT32-B

First let me express my appreciation for all of the comments pro and con. I am impressed with this site for the breadth of the experience here and the willingness of folks to share.

Now I've gotten pretty serious about using this engine either in the Monocoupe or a Nosen Mr. Mulligan and I've started looking at the instructions for the engine. (Earl I've been following your builds including the Nosen Citibra/Decathlon build). The instructions would have you cut the fire wall to allow the muffler, shaft extension to pass through and to bolt the rather light gage motor mounts to something with a little more stability than four stand offs. This creates some considerable conflict in my brain. I can see adding extensions to the muffler outlets to get those out of the plane but any leakage past the shaft seal and the muffler are going to be end up right in the fuselage!

One of the charms of the Mulligan and Monocoupes is the short radial nose and while I can conceive of making a sort of faux fire wall to attach the engine with a sealed, fuel proofed bulkhead behind it, I really don't want to use the as designed fire wall location as that bulkhead as it just makes the noses too long. I can design a secondary plywood bulk head into these planes although that kind of sticks the fuel tank back a longish way. I guess the issue for me is - is the fuel proofing for an engine using a gas oil mix that different from what you'd do with an alcohol/castor/nitro engine?

Typically I see guys making a well behind the engines with the rear facing carburetors which give a good fuselage seal and allows the engine to be kept back in the cowl but with this muffler location this engine isn't going to lend itself to that unless I make a set back or wide trough in the firewall for the muffler and maybe a skinny well for the shaft extension (although I'll take the cut off suggestion under advisement). I've spent about two hours on the band saw getting plywood parts for the Mulligan out, a few more minutes and some aircraft ply I've got and some epoxy and triangular stock to reinforce the fire wall only requires that I get some cajones - but anybody with an alternative suggestion or a thread for mounting this engine please chime in.

Thank You all Cliffc
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