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Old Jan 19, 2013, 01:14 PM
Official Boat Bum
Eddie P's Avatar
United States, NV, Reno
Joined Mar 2000
7,139 Posts
Really nice work! It's really starting to look like a P-3 now.
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 07:45 PM
Tow Dog.
Pilatuspc12's Avatar
United States, CO, Hotchkiss
Joined Oct 2006
1,667 Posts
It's amazing how they fly on such a small wing!
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 08:15 PM
Veni Vidi Volavi
Sterling, VA
Joined Jan 2002
2,485 Posts
Greetings All

Not much work the last couple of days. Between watching football and going dress shopping with the boss, have not had much free time.

Managed to pop the fin and rudder off the building board and do a bit of preliminary touch up sanding to get them ready to be sheeted. I sheeted the bottom aft end of the fin (area directly below the rudder) with some 1/16" sheet balsa. I also glued up some 1/16" balsa sheeting for both the fin and rudder using some blue painters tape to hold the sheets together and some sandable aliphatic resin type glue to glue the pieces together. You do not want to use CA here as it cures very hard and you can have trouble getting the glue line sanded down without really sanding away at the adjacent balsa. I used some SIG Sigment which seems to work well for this sort of thing.

So hopefully in the next day or so I will be able to get the fin and rudder sheeted. Still pondering the nose gear retract setup.

Brian Allen

Veni Vidi Volavi

I came I saw I flew
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Last edited by Brian Allen; May 05, 2013 at 05:02 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 12:37 PM
Veni Vidi Volavi
Sterling, VA
Joined Jan 2002
2,485 Posts
Greetings All

After getting the fin and rudder sheeting glued up last night I proceeded to get the sheeting attached. I cut the sheeting to size using the plans as a guide. On the trailing edge of the rudder the sheeting needs to be sanded down to an edge as there is no TE, just the sheeting. If the edge is not sanded it will bulge at the TE which looks kinda funny. I glued up one side and then I added some additional balsa blocking at the lower end of the rudder at the LE. On models like this I like to make the control linkages internal so you don't see any external horns or pushrods so I needed some additional wood here for the internal horn. When that was done I glued up the second side and sanded the edges smooth and used a small block plane and sanding bar to sand the LE bevel in place for the hinges. Weight at this point without hinges is 1/2 oz or so.

I made up the fin sheeting in two sections due to the dorsal area. As with the fin I cut them to shape, fine tuned them as needed and glued up the one side. When finished with the one side it was lunch time so the other side will have to wait.

After the second side of the finis sheeted I will sand the LE to shape and get the hinges in on the fin and rudder. I will then make up the control rod for the rudder and get that setup. Then back to the fuselage to get the nose LG in place and the rest of the stringers in. Then on to the stab!!

Brian Allen

Veni Vidi Volavi

I came I saw I flew
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 10:49 PM
Obviously I'm a "Minus Member"
buzzltyr's Avatar
USA, MA, Longmeadow
Joined Jun 2003
1,816 Posts
You are certainly doing your usual fine job, Brian! I'll look forward to seeing this one at NEAT next fall!

Mark
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 05:44 AM
This is a fine fiddly business
Robert R's Avatar
United States, WA, Marysville
Joined May 2009
1,330 Posts
A sheeted Tritle fin and rudder. Will wonders never cease? Lovely work.
Robert
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 08:19 AM
Cut it twice, still too short
dglo's Avatar
Bay City, MI
Joined Oct 2007
647 Posts
A Tritle design with a weight listed as pounds rather than ounces is another wonder. Nice build, Brian. The fin and rudder looks a lot like the one on the B-17, minus the sheeting.

Doug
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 01:20 PM
Official Boat Bum
Eddie P's Avatar
United States, NV, Reno
Joined Mar 2000
7,139 Posts
I like the sheeted design though. Worth the weight for a scale plane.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 01:55 PM
Veni Vidi Volavi
Sterling, VA
Joined Jan 2002
2,485 Posts
Greetings All

Managed a bit of work this afternoon when I got home from work. Did not feel like doing much but I got the other side of the fin sheeted and rough sanded and added the block on top of the fin and rudder and got them rough sanded to shape also. Need to sand the LE of the fin to shape along with the blocks on both pieces and then cut in the hinges (which I should probably check to see if I actually have any!!). Weight at this point is less then 2 1/2 oz for both the fin and rudder, not bad!!

Mark, thanks for the kind comments. The plan is to have it finished in time for NEAT but one never knows what will happen. A lot is going to depend on what I finally come up with for a nacelle design. Still thinking that one over.

Robert, dglo and Eddie, I know a sheeted Pat Tritle design? Does seem kinda sacrilegious. What makes it even crazier is a fully sheeted fuselage, wing and stab!!! Have to check to make sure that the world is not coming to an end!!

Next step after finishing the fin and rudder is to get back to the nose gear setup and formers on the fuselage. Then probably start on the stab and elevators.

Brian Allen

Veni Vidi Volavi

I came I saw I flew
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 02:32 PM
Veni Vidi Volavi
Sterling, VA
Joined Jan 2002
2,485 Posts
Greetings All

Well we be back. It is snowing outside and has been really cold and windy here in Northern VA all week so some shop time has been available. particularly when the cellar is the warmest part of the house. Can't wait to see this months utility bills!!

In any case I decided to start on the stab and elevators. They are built just like the fin and rudder with the exception that the horizontal stab of the P-3 has a significant amount of dihedral in it to form a V tail. So unlike most models the whole structure can not be built flat and in one piece but must be built as halves, first one side then the other. When the first side is done it is unpinned from the board and it is rocked over to the other side and the second side completed. easy to do.

Since the stab has dihedral the first thing that needs to be done is to glue the spar doubler S2A to the rear spar S2. I did one side first instead of doing both as I could for see snapping the left side of S2 off while working on the right side. When that is done the stab goes together a lot like the fin, you egg crate a couple of the ribs into the front spar S1 and the rear spar S2, pin it down, add the remainder of the ribs and glue. Add the leading edge using the center line tick marks on the rib fronts and slide the lite ply dihedral brace in and voila, the first side is done.

Then you glue in the rear spar for the left side (S2) to the spar doubler S2A, unpin the whole mess, rock it over to the left side of the plan while supporting the right side with a block or something and repeat.

Things to watch out for. As on the fin/ruder construction I glued a small strip on the top of ribs S3 to S7 and cut out the area for the rear spar S2 a and the elevator front spar S3. The main spar S1 needs to have a slight bevel sanded into the rib slots so everything will egg crate together properly, otherwise you can not get the proper sweep that is needed on the spar and ribs. Just a quick pass with the sanding block is all that is needed.

Next will be getting the elevator front spars glued in place and then separating the stab/elevators. The elevator front spar also has a doubler S4 that is glued to S3, these have been made up already. Then I can make up the elevator sheeting from 1/16" balsa and get them glued up and in place.

Next step is to get the bottom stab sheeting made up and fitted along with the torque rods for the elevator halves (due to the dihedral in the stab/elevator a split pushrod is needed. Pat has all the details on the plans).

Stay tuned, more to come!!

Brian Allen

Veni Vidi Volavi

I came I saw I flew
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 02:35 PM
Veni Vidi Volavi
Sterling, VA
Joined Jan 2002
2,485 Posts
Greetings All

Well this morning while waiting for the laundry to run through its cycle (yes I do the laundry at home, along with the cooking and cleaning!!) I decided to work on one of the elevators.

The elevator ribs are part of the whole stab rib at this point, tack glued to the stab using the small strips noted above to keep the build tab in place. After gluing the elevator LE doubler in place, the LE was positioned and glued to the ribs. The strips holding the ribs together were then cut to allow the elevator to come free.

The end rib ER2 was glued in place. After some sanding to remove any glue bumps and whatnot I cut the bottom sheeting to shape (it can be made from a piece of 3" wide stock) and beveled the rear edge as I also did on the rudder. I then glued the spar/rib assembly to the lower sheeting.

The end rib has three additional rib pieces ER2A and ER2B glued in place. These form a pocket for the elevator torque rod. I also added some additional blocking along the LE where the hinges would be placed. The upper sheeting was then glued in place, the edges sanded and the LE bevel planed and sanded to shape. Next step is to cut in the hinges. Weight of the finished elevator half is about .4 oz.

The left elevator will be done in the same manner and then the stab sheeting will be made up and glued in place along with making up the elevator torque rods.

Brian Allen

Veni Vidi Volavi

I came I saw I flew
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 06:33 PM
Veni Vidi Volavi
Sterling, VA
Joined Jan 2002
2,485 Posts
Greetings and Filicitations

I did not get a chance to work on the P-3 this past Sunday as the wife and I were in Harrisonburg, VA visiting the younger daughter at James Madison University and taking in the women's basketball game. Had a great time. But I digress.

After work this afternoon I worked up enough energy to build up and complete the left elevator in the same manner as the right one.

The next step is to start sheeting the stab. I had previously cut up and edge glued the 1/16: balsa sheeting for both lower sides of the stab. This was done like the fin using tape and sandable glue. After sanding the glue joints the front taper was cut in and the fit checked against the stab. When satisfied with the fit I started gluing the sheeting to the right bottom side of the stab. Note that the sheeting was made oversize at the rear to make sure everything would fit properly. When all sheeting was all glued up the rear edges were trimmed and sanded smooth. I then planed and sanded the leading edge flush with the installed sheeting.

Next step is to sheet the left lower side of the stab and then make up the elevator torque rods, as these must be installed before the top side of the stab center at the rear can be sheeted.

So more to come.

Brian Allen

Veni Vidi Volavi

I came I saw I flew
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 05:52 PM
Veni Vidi Volavi
Sterling, VA
Joined Jan 2002
2,485 Posts
Hello All

Back again. Should have gone flying today. Hit 70F here in Northern VA and was DFC. As usual I listened to the weather dude and he was calling for winds and such along with the warm weather. When will I learn??!!

Since I did not have anything charged up I decided to work on the other side of the stab. It was sheeted in the same manner as the right side and the lower LE sanded to match the sheeting.

I then decided to make up the torque rods for the elevators. Pat's design calls for the rods to be made from 1/8" music wire and 5/32" brass tube bearings. I looked at the size of the rods and decided that 1/8" wire would be unbendable as I do not have a wire bender. I really need to get one of those K&S wire benders. So I decided to bend the rods up from 3/32" wire which I can do. Figured they would be plenty strong due to their small size.

The ribs SRS2 have a 5/32" hole cut in them to allow the bearing tube to pass thru. Since I would be using 3/32" wire the bearing tubes would be 1/8" brass. I then cut a piece of 5/32" tube and slipped it over the 1/8" tube and put a small drop of thin CA on it to hold the two tubes together. This way the torque rod assemblies would fit snug in the hole in SR2. The elevator rib doublers that were glued together to form the torque rod pocket in the elevator are also sized for 1/8" wire. Since the rods are 3/32" wire I sleeved the slot with a piece of 1/8" brass tube to provide a snug fit into the elevator for the torque rod.

The end of the torque that is below the stab has a short piece of 1/8" brass tube silver soldered to it. The end is then crimped and a 1/16" hole is drilled in the flat for the pushrod clevis.

The assembly was they fitted to the stab and the fit of the elevator was checked. I did not glue anything yet as I want to get the elevators hinged first and make sure everything lines up before the torque rods are glued in place. The area where the torque extend below the lower stab surface requires a bevel to e filed in order to allow the torque rods to move properly. This was done using a round file.

I then added some additional balsa blocking at the anticipated hinge locations to provide additional support for the hinges.

As far as a pushrod is concerned, I am leaning to using two elevator servos and separate pushrods to each half. Although I may use a pitchfork. Still time to decide.

Brian Allen

Veni Vidi Volavi

I came I saw I flew
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 05:59 PM
This is a fine fiddly business
Robert R's Avatar
United States, WA, Marysville
Joined May 2009
1,330 Posts
I am enjoying the build.
Robert
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 05:21 PM
Veni Vidi Volavi
Sterling, VA
Joined Jan 2002
2,485 Posts
Greetings All

Robert, and all others who have commented, thanks for the kind comments

Well I made a trip this morning to the hobby shop and picked up a few packages of Dubro pinned hinges so I could get the elevators and rudders hinged. Decided to use four per surface. After marking centerlines I cut the slots with a #11 and a saw and fit the hinges in place and checked for alignment. All looked well.

I then pulled the elevator halves off and put the torque rod assemblies in place. I reattached the elevators with the torque rod into the elevator, lined everything up and tack glued the brass bearing tube to the stab spar. I then made up some balsa blocks with a 5/32" groove in them and
glued them in place solidly to the spar and rib SR2. Checked for freedom of movement and we are done. Hinges will be glued in place when everything is covered.

I then finished up for the day by hinging the rudder to the fin. Need to ponder a torque rod for the rudder so I can hide the control linkages internal. Have it figured out, just need to make it up. It will drop down thru the fin and wind up below the elevator rods so there will not be any interference issues. This will require that the stab be mounted to the fuselage so I can check the angles and dangles and make sure I have the proper length.

I then made up the stab sheeting for the upper side of the stab by cutting and edge gluing the 1/16" balsa together.

Brian Allen

Veni Vidi Volavi

I came I saw I flew
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Last edited by Brian Allen; Jun 19, 2014 at 05:56 PM.
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