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Old Feb 18, 2013, 02:50 PM
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Lunns's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2003
309 Posts
Olympia Maiden

Hi Guys,

I came across the rcplans prototype olympia maiden. Looks beautiful.

There is a list of videos at the bottom of the page, the olympia maiden is amongst them.

http://www.scalesoaring.com.au/media....html?start=18

Cheers
Steve
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 07:03 PM
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Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
616 Posts
Another finishing tip

Some other help from a fellow flyer, quickee on this forum, who does very nice finishing on all his projects—cars, models, even a club winch.
Don't use too fine of sandpaper and sand at an angle to the fuselage, like 45° to the grain, then 90° to that. Screen-type paper, as used for drywall, works better. He recommends not using a block, but grabbing the screen at both ends and go over the fuselage like using a polishing cloth on shoes. That way it conforms better to the fuselage contours. Slather the filler on by hand using protective gloves, especially with the epoxy mixture.

Two types of filler were recommended:
1. Watered-down spackle a little runnier than honey; don't use lite spackle.
2. Mix epoxy (West System 105 resin and 206 slow hardener) with an easy-sanding filler. West Systems recommends 407 Low-Density or 410 Microlight for sandability and gap-filling and used for filling low areas, voids, and fairings. Mix it thin, just so it won't run.

The final recommendation was that #2 is a little better. It costs more and may take more effort, but leaves a harder surface. I am also not too secure with putting more water on all that balsa, particularly the rear sheeting.

In either case, cover with cloth, prime, and paint.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 10:14 PM
Where's all the wind gone
ShaneW's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia.
Joined May 2006
142 Posts
Hey Scott,

Just came across this You Tube footage.
Looks like a few full size Olympias at play...

Gliders (1950s) Beulah_Library_Roll_F3-18_ (1 min 46 sec)


...and another great vid from the air...

http://www.britishpathe.com/video/glider-in-flight

Shane.
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Last edited by ShaneW; Feb 19, 2013 at 10:32 PM.
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 06:48 PM
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Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
616 Posts
Thanks Shane, vintage movies of vintage sailplanes. I recognize some of those color schemes.

Scott
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Old Feb 21, 2013, 01:57 PM
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Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
616 Posts
Still workin' on the fin...

After waiting too long to drill and fit the hinges, I would recommend that you drill the hinge holes before tapering the tail surfaces or rounding the leading edges and before adding the balsa shroud.
Here is a good site on installing Robart Hinge Points.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1837222

Revision 12-16-13: after hinging and adding the shroud to the ailerons, I think that is a better way to go; see Posts 247 & 248
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Last edited by shinck; Dec 16, 2013 at 11:03 AM.
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 03:55 AM
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The guy at the end of the movie wouldn't get to fly anything of mine..... canopy just dropped on the ground, and seatbelts flung on the fuslage sides.
Col
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 10:11 AM
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Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
616 Posts
He did seem to be in a bit of a rush to get out of the cockpit. Was he claustrophobic? Feeling foolish in front of the camera because he couldn't get his harness undone? Maybe mad because he had a crappy flight? It was a bit odd.
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 11:40 AM
Designing something...
United States, CA, Cameron Park
Joined Jan 2004
1,692 Posts
single stroke fonts

Hey Scott,

First, I want to let you know that I'm thoroughly enjoying your build. The packing tape on the ribs is a great idea. Who amongst us hasn't inadvertently sanded ribs?

One thing I did notice back in post #93 was the use of fonts for engraving text on the parts. In Rhino I've switched over to single stroke fonts (http://wiki.mcneel.com/rhino/engravingfonts). I know that these weren't you CAD files but I thought I'd throw that out there anyway.

Best regards,
Brian
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 01:20 PM
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Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
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Brian,
Glad to know I had something that helped.

I agree on the fonts. Can make a big difference on production laser cutting time. I have done some amateur laser cutting, going from Mac Illustrator DXF to Windows CorelDraw for cutting. My fonts took as long to cut as the ribs. I looked into single-line fonts, but ran out of patience when trying to use the workflow I was constrained to.

As far as these files, I reached beyond my limit in paying for "tweaking". Someone else will have to do that work on their dime. Or it may not be worth the effort, depending on how many requests for kits are made.

Scott
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 05:49 PM
Where's all the wind gone
ShaneW's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia.
Joined May 2006
142 Posts
Hey Scott and Brian,

You'll be pleased to know that all CAD issues you've found in the v1.0.0 file/parts have been fixed in the v2.0.0 kit.
This includes all the little items you've identified in the build log so far, plus a few others that were also found.

Loving the build thread also, it's coming along really well!

Hope you enjoy flying yours as much as we like flying ours.

Shane.
http://www.rcplans.com.au
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 11:09 AM
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Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
616 Posts
Rudder

The basic rudder goes together quickly. The devil is in the details. Because I will be using Robart HInge Points instead of the supplied liteply tabs and wire, a few steps outlined on the prototype build are skipped.

And because the basic rudder seemed kind of flimsy, I beefed it up with not much weight gain, as outlined in Scale Model Gliders by Cliff Charlesworth (where the Olympia 2b is the sample model).

And last, the rudder horn may be laser cut from liteplay, but again I elected to go with something stronger—G10 in my case.
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