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Old Jan 13, 2013, 07:25 AM
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United States, MI, Macomb
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Originally Posted by Bkndsdl View Post
thanks Whiskeykid, Tacx. I have done a good bit of research here lately, and plan on moving the gear forward and making a hatch held on with magnets....seems like that's the major mods everyone makes on these.

Tacx, did you use the engine mount that came with the kit?
No, i did not use the supplied motor mounts. I used this Dave Brown one piece fiber filled style.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXB880&P=7

I really can't recall why I did? I see nothing wrong with the mounts supplied by Sig. I believe I was having trouble with the wide side flanges of the supplied mounts.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Bkndsdl View Post
Well, got this far before I needed stuff.


Mike,
One more thing I did. While building the wings I noticed that the balsa sheeting at the trailing edge is very weak between the ribs. I actually cracked a couple just handling the wing. I installed short pieces of shear sheeting (bracing) to the trailing edge sheeting between the ribs. Just like the shear sheeting at the spars, but not all the way between the ribs. Just wide enough to provide more support. This will prevent you from crushing the the TE sheeting while handling the wings. I do not like a weak plane.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 05:48 PM
Mike from Alabama
Joined Sep 2011
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Originally Posted by tacx View Post
Mike,
One more thing I did. While building the wings I noticed that the balsa sheeting at the trailing edge is very weak between the ribs. I actually cracked a couple just handling the wing. I installed short pieces of shear sheeting (bracing) to the trailing edge sheeting between the ribs. Just like the shear sheeting at the spars, but not all the way between the ribs. Just wide enough to provide more support. This will prevent you from crushing the the TE sheeting while handling the wings. I do not like a weak plane.
Good info......just with I would've read it before I sheeted the wing....lol. Oh well, I'll be careful......

Well, got a bit of a problem. I have a slight bow in the leading edge, long ways. I've got a bit of weight on it to straighten it out some, but I think it's going to have to be straightened with covering. I have gotten the wing done up to the trailing edge mounting. The balsa at the top and bottom of the leading edge is very thin here too.......I've got a bit of a wavy te because of it. I'll get that straightened out before the te gets glued on.

lol........been a while since I built a plane. Seems like the ribs fly on in minutes, then everything comes to a halt with the minor things..........
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 06:27 PM
Mike from Alabama
Joined Sep 2011
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I did mod the wing bolt area; I didn't like the fact that the sheeting didn't have any backup under the top where the wing bolt comes through the top, so I built up balsa shaped to the ribs, and made a hole in it big enough for the head of the wing hold-down bolt to have some room. I did this on both hold-down bolts.

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Old Jan 13, 2013, 09:20 PM
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Good info......just with I would've read it before I sheeted the wing....lol. Oh well, I'll be careful......

I think you must have misunderstood my advice on the bracing.

At the trailing edge you have sheeting on top and bottom. This sheeting is weak between the ribs. Thats one reason it will warp between the ribs and will break easily if handled at that point. My suggestion is to add bracing to the sheeting between the ribs which you can still do. This will also eliminate the warping.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 10:28 PM
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United States, CO, Dacono
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I bought my Hog bipe as an airframe and the guy told me the gear had literaly fallen off in flight! I reglued the block back in a reinforced it only to have it torn out again when it dead sticked and a gopher hole took out the gear. I have built it stronger now and the gear is a glass unit held in by three nylon 1/4" 20 screws, that way she'll just belly if the gear is torn loose and it won't tear up the mount again. Mine flies with a Saito 91 with a 14-8, it's more than enough power here at 6k altitude. As far as flaps don't waste your time, the plane is designed to fly with four ailerons, don't change it.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 06:13 AM
Mike from Alabama
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Originally Posted by tacx View Post
I think you must have misunderstood my advice on the bracing.

At the trailing edge you have sheeting on top and bottom. This sheeting is weak between the ribs. Thats one reason it will warp between the ribs and will break easily if handled at that point. My suggestion is to add bracing to the sheeting between the ribs which you can still do. This will also eliminate the warping.
ah, I get ya now. I was thinking you were making LE sheeting corrections for some reason........duh. Need to read it all first........I read another builder doing the same thing. Thanks, tacx. I'll get that done after work today.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 06:15 AM
Mike from Alabama
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Originally Posted by cherokeenut View Post
As far as flaps don't waste your time, the plane is designed to fly with four ailerons, don't change it.
Thanks cherokeenut; I have decided against the 4-aileron servo idea. My intention was not to turn the lower ailerons into flaps, but more like flaperons. I wanted them to act as ailerons in flight and flaps at landing.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 06:21 AM
Mike from Alabama
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Originally Posted by tacx View Post
No, i did not use the supplied motor mounts.
Well, honestly, I've seen many use the supplied engine mount, but I was at first nervous about the manual stating that it was rated for a .60. The DuBro mounts are supposed to keep the vibration down, but I don't know that it's necessary now.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Bkndsdl View Post
Well, honestly, I've seen many use the supplied engine mount, but I was at first nervous about the manual stating that it was rated for a .60. The DuBro mounts are supposed to keep the vibration down, but I don't know that it's necessary now.
They are more than likely referring to a 60 size 2 stroke which would be around the same power as a 90 to 100 4 stroke.

I have never seen an engine tear itself out of a glass filled nylon mount. Even in some terrible crashes the engine usually stays mounted to the mouint. At which time it really doesn't matter. Usually the firewall will give way before the bolts through the mount would pullout.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 12:16 PM
Mike from Alabama
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Cool. Thanks tacx.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 08:24 PM
Mike from Alabama
Joined Sep 2011
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Well, of all things to run out of, I run out of glue............at least I have a hobby shop close by. They're bound to at least have that!

At least the leading edge is straight now. The weight worked. Still a slight bow, but covering will get it out.
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 11:28 PM
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still no glue?
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 04:23 PM
Mike from Alabama
Joined Sep 2011
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lol, about to leave from the office and headed that way now!
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 07:52 PM
Mike from Alabama
Joined Sep 2011
107 Posts
Got some glue!!

Got the trailing edge glued on and sanded and trimmed down to shape. Got the wingtips on. I am still not happy about the small bow in the le, but I am confident I can work it out.

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