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Old Jan 11, 2013, 07:01 AM
Mike from Alabama
Joined Sep 2011
107 Posts
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Bkndsdls' Hog Bipe Build - FINALLY

My name is Mike and I have been flying since around '94. I have had a Hog Bipe kit in my closet for almost that long, and now is the time to begin building.

First off, a few questions - I plan on using a Saito .100 inverted. I have seen this engine used on a few hog bipes, but am looking for details on positioning from the firewall, engine mount used, etc. What I really need to know is, what engine mount do I need to buy? I have seen where the 100 uses the same 'case' as the .91, and the .91 uses the same case as the .81. I want to use the DuBro isolation mounts, so do I buy the DuBro engine mount for .81 sized engines or the one for the .91 sized? I am assuming that 'case' means the actual crankcase, which would mean that the bolting pattern would be the same.....is this correct?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Pics to follow.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 08:17 PM
Zor
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Ontario,Canada
Joined Feb 2007
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Originally Posted by Bkndsdl View Post
My name is Mike
>
>
>
.....is this correct?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Pics to follow.
I do not see a quick answer to your question "is this correct?"

If the 81, the 91 and the 100 all have the same case they obviously can use the same engine mount. So you buy one that fits them.

Zor
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 10:20 AM
Mike from Alabama
Joined Sep 2011
107 Posts
A little bit of info on what I have planned......

I have a Saito 100 to go in it. I originally had this engine in a Hangar 9 .60 sized Mustang; it flew awesome with this engine and a 15x6 prop. It was inverted, and I am inclined to do the same on the bipe, since I plan on making a Extra 300-looking cowl.

Dual aileron servos are a no-brainer. Actually thought about 4 aierons, two on the top wing and two on the bottom, and maybe make the bottom two serve as flaps on landing......still on the fence here.

Smoke system is definite. Always wanted one, and I think the bipe will be perfect for it.

I want to modify the tail some, at least enlarge the rudder and maybe the tail feathers.......

I want a pull-pull system for the elevator. Never done this before, but I've seen it done on a few hog bipes. Maybe on the rudder too......

I plan on starting on the wing first, because I still have not decided on the shock-mounted DuBro engine mount or just use what's provided.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 10:30 AM
Mike from Alabama
Joined Sep 2011
107 Posts
First purchase; a building table. Bought a 6' table at Lowes' and some foam board, mounted to the table using double-sided tape.

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Old Jan 12, 2013, 11:05 AM
team sleprock
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United States, WA, Port Angeles
Joined Dec 2009
3,417 Posts
a flat surface, is manditory! I prefer sheetrock, holds pins a lil better! to each his own!

as far as flaps on a hog! hmm seen a few fly, allthough novel, probly not needed, a hog will slow down to a crawl without em!

a servo on each wing, might be a bit overkill also, 1 on each lower wing will be more then enough! as the origianal, only used a single in the middle and flew just fine!

don't get me wrong, I understand the need to update an old design, but the hog flew great as it is! build it strait and lite, and keep it clean! and like all hog flyers I know, you will love it!

oh ya hog bashing is nothing new, so have fun and keep us posted!
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 04:21 PM
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United States, MI, Macomb
Joined Apr 2009
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Couple things,

1. make a larger gear mounting block and move the gear forward 3/4 to 1 inch.

2. If you will not need to remove the wings when transporting reverse the upper wing mounting bolts so you don't end up with ugly holes in the top of the wing. You can still do this even if you plane to remove the wings for trans, but getting to the screws between the wing and the fuse can be difficult.

3. Installing the fuel tank per plans is a bit of a challenge because the plans do not provide for a hatch. Some folks built a hatch into the top of the fuse for easier install and maintenance. I did not install a hatch but I did wrap my tank with duct tape leaving a duct tape tab to be able to pull the tank out if necessary. The way the plans are your tank is stuffed into it's position and it is almost impossible to remove without something to grab on to.

4. I built mine with a OS 91 in it and I have a 2600mah A123 Life battery mounted under the tank and it balances perfect. There is plenty of room under the tank area for a smoke tank and/or battery.

5. The provided gear is kind of weak. I have had to rebend it several times. I am considering replacing it with something stiffer.

If you search "Hog Bipe" builds in the forums there are a couple that are very informative. I would give you the links but I am not at home and do not have access to my favorite sites list. If you go to the "KIt Building" forum in the RCUNIVERSE site there is a build thread there.


Good luck
It's a great build and a good flyer.

Tom
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Last edited by tacx; Jan 12, 2013 at 04:30 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 05:50 PM
Mike from Alabama
Joined Sep 2011
107 Posts
thanks Whiskeykid, Tacx. I have done a good bit of research here lately, and plan on moving the gear forward and making a hatch held on with magnets....seems like that's the major mods everyone makes on these.

Tacx, did you use the engine mount that came with the kit?
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 05:55 PM
Mike from Alabama
Joined Sep 2011
107 Posts
Well, got this far before I needed stuff.

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Old Jan 12, 2013, 05:58 PM
Mike from Alabama
Joined Sep 2011
107 Posts
So, off to Lowes' for some stuff.

Long story short, I'm not at home. I've been away from home - about 6 hrs away - since October. I have so much free time I decided to get the kit built. Unfortunately I am in a very small town that has no hobby shops around, so it's not like at home where I just make a run to HobbyTown USA. A new small hobby shop just opened up - like in November - not far away but they are mostly geared towards cars (2D ground dwellers, eh.....), so they have limited plane stuff right now. So...........what build is complete without some DIY?

First item needed is a sanding T-bar. Picked up two pieces of aluminum angle, some 120 grit sandpaper for a belt sander, some nuts and bolts, and some spray adhesive.

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Old Jan 12, 2013, 07:10 PM
Mike from Alabama
Joined Sep 2011
107 Posts
I clamped the two angles together, drilled some holes, installed a few nuts and bolts, and voila. 36" Tbar frame.





Now all I need to do is cut the sandpaper down to fit, put some spray adhesive on the Tbar and the sandpaper, and attach the sandpaper to the Tbar.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 07:40 PM
Zor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bkndsdl View Post

thanks Whiskeykid, Tacx. I have done a good bit of research here lately, and plan on moving the gear forward and making a hatch held on with magnets....seems like that's the major mods everyone makes on these.

Tacx, did you use the engine mount that came with the kit?
You have a good start on your model and a good example for who is asking what they need to build a model.

Lot of stuff can be acquired as the need arise.

Zor
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 08:29 PM
Mike from Alabama
Joined Sep 2011
107 Posts
I bought 120 grit sandpaper that goes on a 36" belt sander. It is 4" wide. The Tbar is just shy of 4", so I can get two pieces out of one belt. Not bad for $5.....

First, I cut the belt so that it laid flat, and then cut it in half using the Tbar as a guide. Sprayed some spray adhesive on both, then carefully lined up the sandpaper with one end of the Tbar, and just slowly worked it towards the other end. Here's the end result.

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Old Jan 12, 2013, 08:35 PM
Mike from Alabama
Joined Sep 2011
107 Posts
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Originally Posted by tacx View Post

5. The provided gear is kind of weak. I have had to rebend it several times. I am considering replacing it with something stiffer.
Tom
I noticed this too.......I have a Bud Nosen 1/4 scale Citabria that I want to build one day, and one of the things I will have to do is build a landing gear for it. I have been looking at building a laminated gear for it, so maybe I'll just experiment with a gear for the hog in preparation for the Citabria.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 08:52 PM
Registered User
Tn
Joined Jan 2011
311 Posts
I like to use carpet tape to hold my sand paper to my "T" bars, it comes off clean when I change the paper. Any stick'um Left will clean off with a little nail polish remover. (Acetone)
I have 3 tables like the one you bought for house hold work, and as a setup table for my planes. You'll find that it will start to bow to the middle. I use a 2x4's and make a T. I cut it just short of the height of the middle of the table, and then shim it to the right height to hold the table flat.

Pat
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 06:34 AM
Mike from Alabama
Joined Sep 2011
107 Posts
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Originally Posted by Toysareforkids View Post
I like to use carpet tape to hold my sand paper to my "T" bars, it comes off clean when I change the paper. Any stick'um Left will clean off with a little nail polish remover. (Acetone)

Pat
Awesome idea, Pat......I knew I'd have trouble with that spray adhesive, but figured I would just put the next piece right on top of this old one.........once I'm done with the sandpaper on it now, I'll do the carpet tape thing. Thanks for the help!
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