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Old Jan 28, 2013, 03:15 PM
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epoxyearl's Avatar
United States, MD, Elkton
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loNslo- I'm not being cavalier about this....3/16" is such a small amount to be off line, and it isn't a directional thrust (up, down, or side) but just higher.

We know the man, and this will "bug" him, until he says "look what I did", after he moves it to the correct position....ha ha.

Seriously, my experience tells me there will not be a noticeable difference in performance, with a small percentage of dislocation such as this.
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 03:26 PM
wood is good
loNslo's Avatar
United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
Joined Jun 2012
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Maybe the offset will add such incredible performance that we'll be incorporating it on all our models.
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 03:40 PM
The Prez....... again
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United States, IA, Rockwell
Joined Jul 2011
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If you do decide to move the engine I personally see no problem with just adding 3/16 to the engine bearers. You already have the structure to support the engine without issue. Now with that said, is there any issue with firewall clearance if you did lower the engine? It's possible I missed something in an earlier post.

Ken
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 03:58 PM
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Stuff gets in the way.

Yeah-he had a couple of issues- which is why he ended up there....
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 04:31 PM
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USA, NH, Alstead
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Quote:
AIf you do decide to move the engine I personally see no problem with just adding 3/16 to the engine bearers.
Ah, you know, guys, I kept staring at the tilt of the cowl required to get the crankshaft centered. While it is not much, the eye is a very sensitive instrument and it got to me so I took out the saw, sliced off all my bracing, cut the top 3/16" (actually closer to 1/4" when I measured it) off the top of the engine bearers, and am in the process of laminating a a piece on the bottom that extends through the firewall a couple of inches till it hits the next bulkhead. Then I will put on some new 3/16" ply braces on the sides of the mount. So it should be more than strong enough. And problem solved. Pics when done.
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 04:45 PM
wood is good
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United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
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Good man. The up-angled cowl was noticeable even in your photos. Some of my fussiness seems to be rubbing off on you.
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loNslo View Post
Good man. The up-angled cowl was noticeable even in your photos. Some of my fussiness seems to be rubbing off on you.
I weren't skeered- I knew he'd fix it ! Good job.
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Good man. The up-angled cowl was noticeable even in your photos. Some of my fussiness seems to be rubbing off on you.
I think I could see it too but didn't want too! It is a piece of work to fix, but better in the end.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 02:11 PM
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Hacking the engine mount

I bit the bullet and remounted the engine to the correct height and thus centered in the cowl opening with "tilting" the cowl. I decided on the lamination approach suggested above. I removed the old braces, then cut the top off the old bearer and laminated a piece of maple underneath. It sticks throught the first firewall a couple of inches (till it hits the next plywood bulkhead). Then I reinstalled new 3/16" plywood side braces. I am sure this will be way strong enough. I used my foam centering jig to get the prop centered and also made sure the distance from the cowl to the back edge of the prop was constant as I rotated the prop.

The engine itself is still contained within the cowl except for the valve covers which extend through holes made by removing a couple of blisters. There is the requisit gap between the back of the cowl and the nose of the fuselage for air to exit. The nose will require a little more shaping and sanding.

Thanks for gently encouraging me to fix this. It was a bit scary to take the saw to the existing setup but all good now.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 02:15 PM
wood is good
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Oh man, that looks so much better!
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 02:52 PM
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United States, WA, Hoodsport
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U2,

The engine relocation came out great. I actually had to look at the pics a few times because I couldn't see a difference. If you hadn't posted the pics of your progress, I wouldn't have known that there was a mod.

Question. I'm messing around with my building board and have built the top wing rear spar and glued the W-1, W-2, and W-3 ribs in place on the wing's center section. Next comes the wing mounting blocks. When I saw on the plans that the top wing is mounted to the cabana using sheet metal screws into the hardwood blocks I said to myself, "ain't gonna happen." At first I was thinking of using T-nuts (at the top of the blocks) but now I'm thinking of using 1/2" X 5/8" basswood blocks and tapping those for 6-32 bolts.

Thoughts?

EJWash
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 03:14 PM
wood is good
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Photo of the area?

How about using threaded inserts?
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loNslo View Post
Photo of the area?

How about using threaded inserts?
If you go to U2's post #9, you'll see the wing center section. The mounting blocks are positioned in the four corners in between the most outer and second-in ribs.

Thought about inserts, But my hardware didn't have anything that small.

EJWash
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 03:37 PM
The Prez....... again
kenh3497's Avatar
United States, IA, Rockwell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by u2builder View Post
I bit the bullet and remounted the engine to the correct height and thus centered in the cowl opening with "tilting" the cowl.
Thanks for gently encouraging me to fix this. It was a bit scary to take the saw to the existing setup but all good now.
See, that wasn't so bad was it? I know I have the problem of just getting started sometimes. After I get started, it goes well, at least most of the time

The mod came out real nice and yes I think it will be plenty strong.

Ken
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 03:45 PM
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Hey E.J.,

Great that you are getting started.

Tom Crump mentioned what you are speaking of. T-nuts would be a good solution, but ...

I drilled little holes where indicated on the plans. Luckily (and I stress luck) my cabanes came out such that the little sheet metal screws fit exactly from the cabane wire ends into the little holes. I could see it not coming out perfectly and if it didn't the preinstalled T-nuts would make it had to make an adjustment. The cabane wires are very heavy duty and once installed it would be hard to change anything. I you use T-nuts perhaps you should wait to permanently install the cabane blocks until you have both wings mounted. That would probably be a smart/safe thing to do.

Threaded inserts would give more flexibility if you didn't do it that way.

I have the sheet metal screws installed. I could cut little squares out of my wing skin and install T-nuts, but I may just leave the sheet metal screws. I don't plan on removing the wings often. Or I might put in T-nuts.

Yes, the scary engine mount fix did come out well. It had to be done. I kept trying not to "see" the tilt in the cowl but the eye is just too fine an instrument and as LoNSlo pointed out it was even more noticeable in a photograph since it did not allow me to fool myself.

How are you liking the building board?
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