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Old Mar 04, 2013, 07:17 PM
Wasn't my fault, I had it and
Wacky1's Avatar
United States, WV, Ripley
Joined Jan 2012
147 Posts
Been reading this thread with excitement! I have a 1/6 one of these to build. Great build, and very helpful seeing what different ideas for improvements are!!
Craig
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 12:50 AM
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United States, WA, Hoodsport
Joined Mar 2008
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loNslo,

Thank you.

Wack1,

Jump on in!

EJWash
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 11:29 AM
wood is good
loNslo's Avatar
United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
Joined Jun 2012
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On the last photo, instead of photographing these details and changes (probably easier) I have been marking them directly onto the plans sheet.

Old habits are hard to break.
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 11:47 AM
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I ran into a couple of challenges while sheeting the top of the ailerons. First, all the sheeting for the ailerons, top and bottom, are all cut to the same dimensions. As can be seen in the pics, the leading edge of the ailerons are placed on top of the bottom sheet and the ribs are added. After that, the top sheeting is applied. The ailerons follow the same profile as the flat-bottom wing. Therefore, the profile of the ailerons is a triangle. Which in turn means that the top sheeting is a bit longer than the bottom sheeting (leading edge to trailing edge). I could have compensated for this by recessing the leading edge piece about 1/16" into the bottom sheeting, but I did not see this coming. So much for my usual practice of dry-fitting pieces and structures before I glue them together. What I need-up doing was cutting four new top sheeting pieces 1/8" wider than the kit sheeting. The 1/8" gave me some wiggle-room.

The next challenge I had came to light when I dry-fitting the aileron top sheeting in place. As can be seen in the pics, the ailerons taper at the outboard tip to match the contour of the wing's tip. I really didn't see a way to glue and clamp the full-length of the top sheeting, taper and all. I decided that I would glue the top sheeting in two stages. The first stage I glued the top sheeting to the leading edge, flat, without glueing down the sheet to the taper of the leading edge. The second stage would be to glue the top sheeting to the taper of the leading edge. I placed scrap balsa over the top and bottom sheeting and placed small spring clamps on the sheeting to make a dry-run (pun intended - ha!). Now I'm in the situation of trying to clamp the sheeting on two tapered planes - root to tip, and leading to trailing edge. The surface of the aileron was too slick and the spring clamps would just slip off. I needed traction. Some grip.

The remedy to the clamps slipping off of the aileron top sheeting was to devise a way to hold the sheeting in place while the glue set, but not mar the aileron sheeting in the process. What I came-up with was making 3/4" wide strips of 1/16" ply supports. I cut these supports to follow the contour of the trailing edge of the top and bottom aileron sheeting. To handle the slipping problem I spray-glued 12-grit sandpaper to both sides of the supports. Made a dry-run with a support on both the top and bottom of the aileron, no slipping, glue on!

EJWash
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loNslo View Post
On the last photo, instead of photographing these details and changes (probably easier) I have been marking them directly onto the plans sheet.

Old habits are hard to break.
Yeah, the eggheads at work are trying to drag me into the twenty-first century. I printed a copy of the pic of the aileron and ruler and threw it in the kit box. If the plans survive the build, I'll roll the picture in with them.

EJWash
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 01:54 PM
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u2builder's Avatar
USA, NH, Alstead
Joined Oct 2007
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Yeah E.J. Same problems at my end. I left the top sheeting shy at the spar because it gets sanded off when you make the 45 degree edge. I used CA to first affix the sheet to the spar, then put med CA on the ribs and TE and pressed it down for a few seconds. I might have don't the tapered end last. Don't really remember. My hands did pretty much all the clamping on this project. . Because I don't have a mag board and got sick of pinning I pretty much went over from wood glue to medium CA for just about everything because I can hold the pieces in place till they dry. I hate the stuff because I am allergic to it, but it is pretty much glue and press together construction.

I think you might wind up using CA to put the stringers on the fuselage cause that would be a challenge to clamp! And since I have "gone over" to CA putting sheeting on the fuselage has also become much easier because that too is hard to clamp. But the board should be really great for setting up the formers on the crutch and getting everything perfect.
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 02:28 PM
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Hey U2,

Not only where the kit top sheeting short width-wise, it fell a little short span-wise too. When the tip was folded down to meet the bottom sheeting, there was a 1/16"-3/32" gap. Of course, all of this could be sanded to shape, but I think I'm starting to show early signs of OCD. At least a form of it. If a joint isn't right, or something isn't square, I fixate on it.

Thanks for the head's-up on the fuse stringers. I have some *very* thin Midwest grip pins that may do the job.

EJWash
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 05:44 PM
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USA, NH, Alstead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJWash1 View Post
Hey U2,

Not only where the kit top sheeting short width-wise, it fell a little short span-wise too. When the tip was folded down to meet the bottom sheeting, there was a 1/16"-3/32" gap. Of course, all of this could be sanded to shape, but I think I'm starting to show early signs of OCD. At least a form of it. If a joint isn't right, or something isn't square, I fixate on it.

Thanks for the head's-up on the fuse stringers. I have some *very* thin Midwest grip pins that may do the job.

EJWash
LOL. Yeah, it was a little short spanwise too. I am always in too much of a hurry and have to fix up the mess later. Better to do it right now.

While you may have signs of OCD I suffer from child like impulsiveness. Of course my retirement is designed to be sort of a regression into childhood a la Space Odyssey 2001.

Speaking of regression, my latest plane project, a Bixler/Easy Star clone, is a lot like the foamy I started with 6 years ago. It is taking a week to get here and I'll have it built "quicker than you can build a set of balsa ailerons". LoNSlo put this crazy idea in my head cause I had never even heard of a "Bixler" till he mentioned it. It is a disease: someone mentions the name of a plane and I order one (actually I ordered two).
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 06:14 PM
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United States, MD, Elkton
Joined Oct 2011
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LOCKHEED SUPER CONSTELLATION !

hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha !
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 06:52 PM
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Very funny. I do love that plane though! What a beauty.
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 07:29 PM
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LOCKHEED SUPER CONSTELLATION !

hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha !
Meanie!



EJWash
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 02:23 PM
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Got a little bit done on the bottom wing. Have to install the servo rails in the rib bays.

Not much shop time this week. Had to replace the pads and rotors on my F-250 - all four wheels. Been a while since I've bought auto parts. All the brake parts I got are made in China. Asked the clerk if they stocked U.S. made. Yeah, "high performance" (its just a truck!) about $800 for rotors and pads versus the $300 I ended-up getting.

EJWash
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 02:53 PM
wood is good
loNslo's Avatar
United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
Joined Jun 2012
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China needs the money.

This past year I had to replace front rotors and pads on my Tundra. Japan-made OEM parts cost me ~$250 (dealer net).
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 03:10 PM
ARFs Are Me
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Traverse City, Michigan
Joined Dec 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loNslo View Post
China needs the money.

This past year I had to replace front rotors and pads on my Tundra. Japan-made OEM parts cost me ~$250 (dealer net).
Are you sure that they were Japan made ? I used to make all sorts of Toyota parts, here, in Michigan.
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