Friend's DX7s backlight mod complete too!!
My buddy ordered a backlight 9X kit the same time as mine, but he had not been in town until today. He brought by his DX7s (also requiring a backlight) and we installed it today!
It turned out superbly! See pix below. same basic deal as the DX6i, except the power is tapped off the positive lead off the vibration motor (to pin 2, the outermost pin on the connector left, fifth from the black lead on the 9X's connector plug) and the negative goes to the furthest right pin on the back of the radio (rear half board) (to pin 3, the innermost remaining lead).
See helifreak's DX7s backlight mod. (google it). Also, I left the heat shrink on his 9X connector, whereas for some unknown reason, HF took his off.
His install also made a slightly brighter white screen on the right side. I avoided this by using thin 1/16" foam double sticky tape on the board, and then the panel stuck to it. I then epoxied the main display edges (like I did on my Dx6i) to the panel, and added some foam sticky material that came with the 9X kit (~3/8" wide) on the exposed remainder of the panel that is past the right side of the screen (like I did with the 6i mod below). this acted like a spacer to avoid screen damage, and also hides the uncovered bare panel from creating inner reflections leading to a brighter right side (see HF's pix). Ours turned out perfectly!
Also used a Radio shack 4xAA flat AA holder with a cordless phone plug to allow either the stock NiMH pack OR 4xAA (NiMH or Alkaline) to be used in the TX! See pic below. Removal of the foam inserts allows a clean fit to this mod!
**make sure to reverse polarity on the plug - Spektrum has theirs opposite for some reason!
ImagesView all Images in thread
***Re: Backlight mod for DX7s...
Just a note.
I felt bad about not including the link to Helifreak's mod article, so here it is:
1) You do NOT need to cut the heat shrink on the plug off the 9X kit.
2) Do NOT put the foam under the 9X screen per the article. Better to use double-sided stick foam tape (I used 2x 1" wide by ~1.5" long, enough to hold the 9X screen on both sides). Otherwise you risk the screen assembly being too thick to firm onto the case when reassembling.
3) Pre-mark the edges of the screen location BEFORE removal. Top and sides. I used a thin marker on the circuit board to use later when positioning the 9X and screen onto the 9X backlight. Leave only ~1-2mm on the LEFT edge of the screen when placing it onto the backlight.
4) If you opt for 5-minute epoxy to adhere your screen to the 9X, use a toothpick to gently run a bead on both edges carefully. If done right, the resin should form a meniscus 2/3 up from the edges of the screen and onto the top surface of the 9X sloping off both sides. Not hard to do, just take your time. If you wish, do one side at a time to get right. Epoxy will flow smoothly and do a great job. I also urge you to either paint over the uncovered panel portion that extends off the main screen to the right when viewing it, or use the foam material from the 9x. about 5/16" wide strip can be placed as close as possible to the screen side over the epoxy - this won't sit perfectly flat, but that's okay. It will shape to form a spacer gap as well as preventing extra light reflections.
5) Use the 9X plug! It makes assembly easier. I used the plug by cutting the wires off the heat shrink part and leaving wire/pin 2 and 3 while cutting the rest. These are the second and third orange wires from the side opposite the black one. All others are cut off. 2 is positive, 3 negative.
6) wire #2 goes to the positive (red) wire off the main board (after insertion back onto the radio) on the lower right side rear which also powers the vibe motor. #3 goes to the rightmost lower pin on the rear board (the one that has a jumper flat cable to the main unit).
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