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Old Feb 08, 2013, 10:36 AM
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Thanks again for all the comments and suggestions. Ok, I will build according to the “plans”. Minor changes only. I’m going to use the balsa I have on hand—not the best—heavy to very heavy. I’ll use thinner (ie 1/16th in place of 1/8th —ribs) if possible. The wing will be as shown using the “egg crate” construction. I’ll also key in the trailing edge. I am going to go for 3/8 hard, rather than ½ on the fuse. The LE of the wing will not use the heavy 3/16 sheet, but instead a ¼ inch LE spar and a 1/8 spar about 1 inch back.

As someone mentioned in another thread, cutting out the ribs can be a very satisfying therapeutic experience. Bill, I guess I’ll take the therapy session for you on that one. Maybe you can add the “final touches”. Yes, I’m building two.
As Bill shows in Chad’s build, post #29 (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1819326&page=2)
we are getting a lot of snow to-day. What’s a little winter snow—this is Canada you know. I think I can hear our snow bird (John M) LOL at us now!
Time to head to the basement, projects are calling, or is that a snow blower I hear? Back later.
John
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 11:25 AM
Since 1952
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Quote:
...we are getting a lot of snow to-day. What’s a little winter snow—this is Canada you know.
Have you tried this kind of snowblower, John?
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 12:28 PM
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We don't need the boots! The diesel exhaust will melt the snow.
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 10:03 PM
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getting started

Well it's about time to get something done.
Started off making two profile sides. One for me and one for Bill.
Nothing fancy for a combat plane, especially since it may not last too long. When did you last fly one Bill?
Chad did mention that "lite ply" was good for orange boxes, so an orange box must be good for lite ply! It's really not much stronger than balsa, so a little epoxy and fiber glass cloth as a laminate will do.
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 12:49 PM
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Peace Maker

To-day, more progress; cut the aircraft ply for the nose and engine mount,

and also all the rib blanks cut out before cutting a spar notch.

The TE sheeting is notched to accept the ribs. The main spare will have the same "notch" markings for square alignment.
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 01:49 PM
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This looks like a fun build. As a kid, I loved the Flite Streak, and the Peacemaker is just as pretty. Watching with interest!

P
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 02:37 PM
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cutting and notching the wing ribs for the wing spar fit

The Balsa cutting is just about done. Using 3 inch wide balsa, 8 ribs can be cut per sheet, and if you trial fit the rib blank, you can get 9 ribs per sheet.
All the blank ribs are hand cut, one by one, using a knife. I cannot control my cuts on the band saw well enough to cut all the ribs at once from a stack of blanks. Besides, where would the therapeutic enjoyment be?

Note: the rib blank has 2 pins to hold it in place on the sheet balsa. The “pin holes” are used later (they are all in perfect alignment) when it comes time to stack the ribs for sanding and spar notching.

Stacking the cut rib blanks and pinning them together for alignment, I used a band saw to cut out the spar notches. Small straight cuts are not a problem. Scrap balsa braces were first pinned to the bottom of the rib stack to ensure that it stayed perpendicular to the saw table. The ribs are also numerically numbered from 1 to 19. They will be laid out on the wing spar in this order. In the event that the band saw cut is not perfectly at 90 degrees to the rib stack, all the cuts will still be in perfect alignment with one another. When the finished ribs are laid out for the wing, there will be no crooked spars, as they will all follow the same path. We’ll just have to see how well they lay out.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 03:23 PM
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I know exactly what you mean about the therapeutic value of rib cutting, I always do mine this way with a ply template with fixed pins. I also enjoy the precision challenge of fitting this type of "egg box" wing structure together. Seeing your wing coming together took me back to building all those Peacemakers fifty-odd years ago, they were the first models I had ever built using this form of wing structure and it has been a firm favourite ever since, I have used it on a lot of my own designs featuring slotted spar webs and surface spars bonded to the leading edge sheet, very satisfying. .
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 10:40 AM
Chad H Fly`n Farmer
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Ancaster, Ontario Canada
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You two buggars are really doin` it huh?

The builds lookin` good John!
Allright!

You better finish it though man, cause your startin` to get me excited with this.

Where`s the test flight gonna be though huh? Bills Grand River International Aerotroplilis? Or here at the Flying Farmers Ancaster strip?
Either way, I wanna do the honors of the hand launches!!

And looky, looky what I dug out below out of the eons of modeling past..............
Still giving off castor oil fumes, and in perfect working order!

Now I gotta talk Bill into finding me a NIB Fox 35 on the cheap this spring.

Maybe if I still have time after finishing the OSS, I`ll stick together a ol` CG Voo Doo, or a Ambroid Super Whip Saw, to see if your two English designs can cut the mustard.

Now get that balsa dust flyin` dude, we all demand progress here on RCG, and no derailments to the final destination this time!
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 10:53 AM
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Peace Maker parts now at 8 oz AUW

The plan info suggests that the bottom spar be added to the main web spar first, before adding any ribs.
So, flip the web spar upside down, and trial fit a few ribs in order to make sure that the depth on the spar and rib are all perfect, not too shallow which would leave the outer spar sticking up, or too deep which would weaken and defeat the integrity of the main spar’s strength. Also, first gluing the outer bottom spar to the web spar will set the alignment to that of the notch in the ribs. I didn’t get my web spar exactly on centre with this outer spar, but the trial fit to the rib did align everything for a tight fit.
Prepare the TE sheet by notching for the rib spacing. The width of the TE sheeting and the length of the rib “tail” will determine the depth of the notch in the sheeting required for a perfect fit. Use the main web spar cuts and match the TE notch positions exactly. This will align everything square when the LE is positioned in place and held straight using a steel ruler (or any perfectly straight piece of material) for reference.

Note the “little bottle” in the picture. Any small bottle of your choice may be used. This holds my Weldbond glue http://www.weldbond.com/

The only complaint you might have with this product is that it dries a little flexible and does not sand as nicely as a more brittle glue. However, it has many uses, one of which is gluing this model together.

See their product guide

http://www.weldbond.com/files/Weldbo...%202009%29.pdf

Using a small bottle you don’t have to give a big “squeeze” to get the glue out. Also, the small tip allows just the right amount of glue to come out.

This glue can be diluted and used as a filler or sealer. Paint and lacquer dopes can be applied to it. It can also be used to “iron” balsa sheeting onto foam wing cores. It works nicely when diluted to stick down silk span, say over a foam wing core, then “paint” and seal the silk span to the foam. The silk span shrinks very tight and then sticks to the foam. The foam is now sealed/protected, and a light coat of dope can be safely applied to the surface.

And, lastly, if you have glued a part on and later want to move it, the glue can be heated up and the part moved.

Back onto the main topic.
The Peace Maker is coming along, all parts are cut out. The total balsa and ply wood weight of material is now at 8 oz. Just need the covering, engine, tank, bell crank and nose gear to add to the final weight.

I’m not sure if I want to go with silk spun and dope, or just use a plastic film. As I mentioned earlier, this model could be short lived. You reading this Bill?

John
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 04:16 PM
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I have wondered if George designed the Flite Streak or the Peacemaker first. As it happened, In January, 1958, I visited George in Ft. Smith, Arkansas, where he had just quit working for Duke Fox. He showed me the pencil plans for the Peacemaker and told me the story. As I recall it was published in the February 1958 Aeromodeller.

I went through my library and found the first TopFlite Nobler ad in the July 1957 Model Airplane News, and the first Flite Streak ad in the September 1957 MAN. I do not have the August issue. So the Flite Streak predates the Peacemaker. I built a Junior Flite Streak around the end of 1958.

The Brodak Flite Streak kits are from George's original plans, and are good kits. I have built both Junior and full size version, also built both from TopFlite kits in years gone by. Several years back, ,I sent Brodak George's original Peacemaker templates in the hopes that a kit would be produced.
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 03:05 PM
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Greg, I’ve done what you mentioned earlier, kept the cord as per plan, but stretched the wing. I used a full 36 inch spar for the wing (and TE sheeting) plus the tips, so about 40 inches total. All the balsa parts now weigh in at 8 oz, so just need covering and a motor. I should be well under the “plan weight” of 20 oz with an OT, and maybe closer to your 16 oz. Covering will probably be plastic, unless Bill wants other wise. What is yours covered with?
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 03:22 PM
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Thanks Jim, “… the Flite Streak predates the Peacemaker. I built a Junior Flite Streak around the end of 1958.” That’s good, I thought it was the other way around!
I had a smaller ( ?? 30 inch) Flite Streak with an old Fox .29 which had no problem staying out on 60 ft lines.
To-day, I just pulled the silk span paper off my old Flite Streak (shown in the above post) to have a look inside the wing. Looking at the LE inside, it appears to have been a kit, and not a scratch build. I wouldn’t have carved out a block of wood. I also had a kit Flite Streak with a built up fuselage and an upright engine. The wing was done up in yellow silk with blue trim. I can’t remember whatever happened to it! I expect the Peace Maker may fly a little faster with the thinner airfoil.
As Chad says, I gotta stay with it. I love to start new builds, but the final lap is hard. In the past I’ve been known to just make “spare” parts when the balsa urge strikes.
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 04:14 PM
Greggles47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnAV8R View Post
Greg, I’ve done what you mentioned earlier, kept the cord as per plan, but stretched the wing. I used a full 36 inch spar for the wing (and TE sheeting) plus the tips, so about 40 inches total. All the balsa parts now weigh in at 8 oz, so just need covering and a motor. I should be well under the “plan weight” of 20 oz with an OT, and maybe closer to your 16 oz. Covering will probably be plastic, unless Bill wants other wise. What is yours covered with?
John,
Extending the wing is the easiest of modifications, you simply cut a couple of extra ribs and don't trim the spars & LE.

My covering is thin laminating film. It's easy to use, fuel proof and can be painted.

Can't wait to see your finished & flying.

Greg
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 07:57 AM
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Thanks Greg. I just sent an order off to

mike@freeflightsupplies.co.uk

MYLAR COVERING MATERIAL/FOIL
10 micron clear 1/2 mil 13.6 gms. per sq. metre 10 metres x 315 mm wide £5.00 plus post

15 micron clear 3/4 mil 20.4 gms. per sq. metre 7.5 metres x 315 mm wide £5.00 plus post

This may take awhile getting here. I’ll give Sundancer’s covering method a try.

John
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