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Old Jan 14, 2013, 04:21 PM
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I've done the same thing using a brass belcrank, and attaching two clevis soldered to the cables that go out to drive the rudders. Same idea you used, but easier than using two servo arms. That said, what you came up with should work just fine
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 06:23 PM
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Finally found some time to work on the tail section. From the first two photos you can see how the stabilizer runs through the rudder splitting it in two. That, and putting the hinge line at the scale position complicated what should have been a straight forward assembly.

A bamboo skewer ties the top and bottom section together. You can see how the rudder horn engages the control cable. I finally got all the parts made and I'll prefinish them before assembly. I'll add the tips of the stabilizer last. More than once I thought about making fixed rudders and going TAE only!

The tail weighs 46g and should come in around 60g once coated with Styrospray. A little heavier than I'd like but still reasonable.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 09:33 PM
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Nice work Pat. I found a couple nice pics surfing today. They were in a gamers painting skins forum. I have books on the plane and never saw these allies capture pictures. The color picture name has 410 on it. I am not sure if it is though. This has what appears to be trike gear. It is very likely though a Me 410.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 03:54 AM
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Hi Pat, I stumbled across your thread today and I must say it's a great piece of work that your'e doing I own and fly the Aeronaut 219 since 1997 and am really satisfied with her. IMHO she's one of the most beautiful aircraft ever built.
Although mine doesen't have functioning rudders, I never missed them. I'm excited to see how they affect the flying characteristics on yours when its done.
Last fall I converted her to brushless power after flying so long with the old geared drive units suggested by Aeronaut and its way more fun to fly her now
I have two threads about her on my blog, maybe you're interested.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=285276

Cheers,
Frank
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by **neons** View Post
Nice work Pat. I found a couple nice pics surfing today. They were in a gamers painting skins forum. I have books on the plane and never saw these allies capture pictures. The color picture name has 410 on it. I am not sure if it is though. This has what appears to be trike gear. It is very likely though a Me 410.
**Neons** Bob
I think the first photo is a 410 based on the extra windows in the nose. No radar either. Does look like there might be a nose gear hidden in the camo.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kauz View Post
Hi Pat, I stumbled across your thread today and I must say it's a great piece of work that your'e doing I own and fly the Aeronaut 219 since 1997 and am really satisfied with her. IMHO she's one of the most beautiful aircraft ever built.
Although mine doesen't have functioning rudders, I never missed them. I'm excited to see how they affect the flying characteristics on yours when its done.
Last fall I converted her to brushless power after flying so long with the old geared drive units suggested by Aeronaut and its way more fun to fly her now
I have two threads about her on my blog, maybe you're interested.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=285276

Cheers,
Frank
Nice looking 219. I'll bet it flies much better on brushless.

Generally, I fly yank and bank except on a few slow flying scale planes where rudder helps give a more scale looking turn. Having rudder is really useful on approach. I like to set up my models so I set altitude with throttle and course correction with rudder. Even if the model doesn't have flaps I'll use the flap switch to mix in some elevator trim so it will fly level at a throttle setting that gives the slowest "controllable" airspeed; more throttle makes it climb, less makes it drop. So on approach I switch from right stick to left for control and use ailerons just to keep the wings level.

On a belly lander, I don't have to hit my short, narrow runway so rudder really isn't needed. Landings are always dead stick.

Now that the tail is built I'll stick with it unless I just can't set the CG without adding lead. Shouldn't be a problem with the 219's longish nose.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 10:14 AM
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It really flies better with brushless, that's for sure It feels as if you have a different model in the skies
I'm living in a very small village with a lot of large agricultural meadows around, so there's space enough to fly, but I also have to land on a narrow, paved farm road. The 219 is my only belly-lander and so landings are a piece of cake with her, she glides in like a soarer. It's very relaxing to land her because all my other models with landing gears are sometimes a little bit tricky to get them where I want on that narrow strip.
Setting the C.G. is not a problem with the Aeronaut model, the 2200's are weighing about 187grs. and sit roughly under the crew ( a bit more to the rear). That long nose really helps with that
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 07:59 PM
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Nice work, Pat. Regarding your rudder setup, look at the bright side; at least you didn't have to include a steerable tail wheel...

Steve
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 08:27 PM
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Nice work, Pat. Regarding your rudder setup, look at the bright side; at least you didn't have to include a steerable tail wheel...

Steve
Yup, no retracts and only two motors. Compared to your lanc, I'm a slacker for sure!
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 08:42 PM
The "pro" in procrastination
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Yup, no retracts and only two motors. Compared to your lanc, I'm a slacker for sure!
Ha! I swear my next build is going to be single-engined with fixed gear . A nice Ercoupe, maybe...

Steve
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 09:14 PM
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A minor setback

I had a little problem this weekend while applying the Styrospray to the fuselage and tail section. I work in a mostly unheated garage and Styrospray needs heat and moisture to cure. So I set my baking oven to 80F and placed a wet towel in the bottom of the oven to boast the humidity. Every thing was fine and I had just applied the second coat to the fuselage and tail section before putting it back in the oven to cure. It takes Styrospray 30-60 minutes to harden under the conditions in my oven. My workshop is freezing so I went inside while everything cured. Now whenever I run the oven unattended I put the sensor to my wireless thermometer in the oven so I can monitor it from within the house. I even have an alarm set to go off if it ever gets over 100F. Anyway, I head back inside to eat some lunch, check the thermostat; 80F and 85% humidity, everythings fine.

But when I went back out to put on the the last coat of Styrospray, I was greeted with the fuselage in the first photo. The sensor for the heater controller had been dislogded and the oven had been on the whole time! I had installed a 240F snap thermostat as safety device in the heater when I modified it and that had gone off. The fuselage and tail section had been roasted at somewhere around 240F for some time and the foam had expanded and ruined everything.

I went back in to see why my thermometer alarm hadn't warned me and the battery had GONE DEAD. Talk about bad timing! I was bummed.

Anyway, I made another fuselage. This one went much quicker; only three hours to get it to the point where the halves are glued together. Having the forms and former templates already made saves a lot of time. Below is a photo of the two fuselages.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 04:27 AM
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Ooowww... yuk

What is the Styro-spray ? is it a spray on plastic film or something like that?


Phil
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Last edited by Smokin' Beaver; Jan 30, 2013 at 04:27 AM. Reason: too lazy to google :)
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 08:10 AM
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Styrospray 1000 is a 2 part polyurethane coating made by Industrial Polymers. Its remarkable stuff. It forms a tough, structural shell that adds strength and a hard surface to foam. You mix it together and apply it to foam with a brush. Its self leveling, you can apply a coat every hour, and makes a great base for paint. You can go from a sanded plane to ready to paint in a few hours.

The weight and strength of three light coats is roughly equivalent to 3/4 oz glass and WBPU. I've been using it for about 2 years on small curved areas or tail sections, areas that are time consuming or difficult to do with glass cloth or paper. It also works well on balsa. This is the first time I'll do an entire airframe with it. You can also use it to harden a foam mold for vacuforming.

Search for awrightbrother from WOWplanes. He uses it extensively and sells it as Liquid Sheeting 2.

It takes a little practice to apply a layer thick enough to self level and yet not so heavy it runs. Very similar to brushing on epoxy or spar varnish. Avoiding runs is important because its hard to sand (again similar to epoxy, though it wet sands well.) Its also is fussy about the temperature and humidity. It really needs at least 70F and 50% humidity. When I first tried it I applied it to a test piece at about 60F and maybe 30% humidity and it took a couple days to harden.

Once you get used to working with it, you realize the potential.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 08:41 AM
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Do you apply a primer coat using latex house primer first? I noticed Fahim does that in his video.

Thanks for this tip. I may use it on a small plane that has small compound curves. I was going to use glass and resin, but this might be easier.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve Merrill View Post
Do you apply a primer coat using latex house primer first? I noticed Fahim does that in his video.

Thanks for this tip. I may use it on a small plane that has small compound curves. I was going to use glass and resin, but this might be easier.
My prep consists of:
1.) block sanding out ripples and tape marks from the FFF
2.) lightweight filler around the nose, seam, dents, scratches etc.
3.) more block sanding
4.) WBPU/ lightweight filler mix, and a final sanding.

You'll get a very smooth surface with adequate prep: "primer ready" is how I think of it. I can see how Fahim's latex primer could take the place of my filler mix. The idea is the same: make a smooth base for the coating.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 02:15 PM
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I would guess it also depends on what surface you are coating. Balsa needs some filler, foam, does not? Or should I just prime everything the same?

I bought some today. Thanks!
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