|Feb 10, 2013, 01:57 PM|
I bought some stuff from Jjifar too - lovely stuff, lovely service, I am very happy with these kits - and I am having some trouble with Google's tranlsations..
could you please send me the instructions you got about re-wiring the sticks into mode 2?
what about the plane you made with Jjifar's stuff?
|Feb 10, 2013, 03:09 PM|
here is the wiring for the joysticks to get mode 2 control:
Pin nature like this.
1 (A0): Elevator
2 (A1): Rudder
3 (A2): Throttle
4 (A3): Eleron
5 (+ V): +5 v
6 (GND): GND
If you change the position of the joystick,
MAIN PCB JOYSTICK PCB Wire <---> change.
MAIN ------ JOYSTICK
A0 -> A2
A1 -> A3
A2 -> A0
A3 -> A1
as for the plane, it didnt work with the direct drive motor. i tried cutting off the upper wing and whatnot, but i couldnt get anything better than an extended glide. so before the next indoor, i built a gear drive from an old linear servo gear set. i used a carbon shaft, the shaft holder is a thin strip of aluminum with 2 holes drilled in it and bent the ends up just enough to align the gears. i used one of the props i got from him as well. i also made it a single wing with polyhedral like a big glider, all these changes made it a really good flyer. it can fly 5-6 minutes on the 10mah cell and handles nice. i havent seen any real range issues, fly it all the way across the gym with no problems.
post pics when you get a plane built
|Feb 13, 2013, 12:42 PM|
Hi again Derk
many thanks for your reply - and for all this thread, your photos were very helpful in clarifying some step - as you know there are some small differences between the board depicted in Jjifar's blog and the Rev.B main boards he sent us and watching your photos saved me from asking him something that you already know.
I started soldering - I finished the main board - and I must say the only thing I am sorry about is that.. it's finished! I had fun soldering those small things, it was a satisfying experience.
|Feb 14, 2013, 02:35 PM|
could I ask you one more thing? On JJifar's instructions I see that to have the throttle stick on the left he says to cut the PCB.. or maybe to just cut the copper layer on the PCB, I can't understand exactly the translation - anyway, do I really have to cut something?
|Feb 14, 2013, 02:42 PM|
No, rearranging the wires like he said in my last post does the same thing. No cutting needed. And be sure your throttle gimbal stays at zero and doesn't spring up any. Mine does just a little bit and i have to hold it down at times. You can program the zero in the settings to overcome that but its safer if the spring isnt pushing.
|Feb 14, 2013, 02:54 PM|
Ah, Derk, many thanks for the prompt reply
so I can forget about the 4 small jumpers I can see on the joysticks' board assembly instructions too?
|Feb 14, 2013, 08:34 PM|
here are a few close up shots of my joystick board and its connections.
the jumpers are there to replace some resistors he initially thought it would need, but turned out it wasnt needed so jumpers instead.
|Feb 16, 2013, 10:56 PM|
Dirk I remember it was hard to get those little joysticks to stay in the lowest spot I used a small rubber band just enough to hold the stick down worked great I think out of 10 joysticks I got 2 that modded perfectly and sat in the lowest position without having to rubber band it. Do you know if a budy port module is or will be made for this system like koichi made for his? that would be the way to go I build one for his stuff and use my futaba TX to fly the IR stuff. Nice build BTW brother. Been a long time since I been on here I hope to get back to my 1/72 scale stuff in the next few weeks.
|Feb 17, 2013, 01:50 AM|
I dont think it will run like a module from koichi. He is currently working on a similar kit based on 2.4ghz, not sure if it will use a custom protocol or a normal one.
The IR transmitter has ppm out so it should be able to link with a module, but i dont know what type the ppm signal is, i'd have to ask.
|Feb 17, 2013, 11:33 AM|
sorry to disturb you again.. I should maybe ask Jjifar directly but language barrier is less a problem asking you :-)
I just soldered the LCD connector and in Jjifar's instructions now I see some warning about the battery, the LCD display, the 7805..
How did you interpret these parts? What should I pay attention to?
(from google translated version)
Middle'll check now. This process must be.
enclosed Battery is a gift I have prepared. If you would like, even if it did not I packed it
again, even if you put a battery placed sseudeon emotional injury, do not. I
have quite a Used Battery .
Now connect the power cord and the same color together to temporarily 'll Prepare as if the power switch is turned on.
Fever check the status of the battery connection, and at the same time, lay your hands on the 7805
circuit in a serious problem in 7805 if fever occurs will
Almost imperceptibly, fever burns careful when it comes. If there is a power tester to measure the current
20mA flowing normal approximation.
LCD including the behavior testing process. Pin header on the LCD as shown in the picture inserting and
tightening seemed alive with open line insulator is inserted between two substrates. I
took advantage of the medicines for the tape . So if you do not need to solder the pin header, you can try the 14-pin signed between the two substrates
. Get to tighten, and the battery.
Peeled As the nut is tight suspense solder joint nut underneath the two different patterns of which one corner is 4:35
washers that act as insulators since this may lead to short-circuiting, creating the appearance Do
I just insert the three pillars was signed only
|Feb 17, 2013, 01:16 PM|
epicdoom, don't mind, feel free to post the plans here..
I am far from being as skilled and experienced as Ivan is but I would love to see those 1/72 models plans! And I am Italian too!
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