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Old Jan 04, 2013, 07:51 PM
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PyroMan's Avatar
United States, KY, Paducah
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Elevator??

Okay I need some help. . .

I'm starting to work on the horizontal stab when I realized that the plans do not have an elevator in the plans. I know this is because the original plans were just for rudder. . . . sooo, any tips on how to do this? How big should it be? How do I frame it up?

Thanks,
Nicholas
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 09:00 PM
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United States, NJ, Browns Mills
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Nicholas:

Based on an approximately 77 sq. inch horizontal stab and elevator (combined), my Mambo has two elevators for a total elevator area of 13 sq. inches (i.e., 64 sq. inches that isn't elevator and 13 that is). So, the elevators are just under 17% of the stab's total area.

Assuming your Mambo has the same relation of stab size to wing area (252 sq. versus 77 sq.), I'd shoot for the same 17%. Construction-wise, mine are sheet balsa, the same thickness as the rest of the stab, and joined with a square "U" of music wire.

CD
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 11:35 PM
Just Me
United States, OR, Salem
Joined Apr 2006
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Elevator Detail

Maybe this can be of help to you....
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 11:05 AM
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That helps a whole lot Brner! Thanks!
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 05:30 PM
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I'm about to cut out the fuse formers when I realized it calls for 3/32" "lite ply". I only have 3/32" birch ply on hand. Will this work okay?
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 05:56 PM
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Toronto (Don Mills), Canada
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It will just be a bit heavier and harder to cut out, but also stronger.

Most of the weight goes when you cut the big hole out in the middle, so probably not a big deal.


(I think they show two F4 formers on the plans, one of them is actually F2 )
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 09:41 PM
Just Me
United States, OR, Salem
Joined Apr 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmackenzie View Post
It will just be a bit heavier and harder to cut out, but also stronger.

Most of the weight goes when you cut the big hole out in the middle, so probably not a big deal.


(I think they show two F4 formers on the plans, one of them is actually F2 )
Good catch.....the one with the flat top is F2...

And PM is right about the ply. What you have will work fine, just a little heavier. What I use for lite ply is an old mahogany door skin....cheap old fart here.....lol
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 01:42 AM
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Thanks for the heads up, Pat. I caught another mix up while building the wing. They have the names of the wing ribs mixed up. W1 is really W2 and vice-versa.

I got quite a bit of work done today. I worked a lot on the plane because I think it will be my last day of vacation. Anyway, this morning I finished up the balsa construction of the wing by sheeting it, tapering the traileing edge, and sanding. It weighs in at 42.56 grams. . . Is this a good weight? I'm not worried about it, I'm just curious on how I did with trying to be careful about not getting too heavy.

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I also built the horizontal stab today. I made the center piece of the elevator solid like the plans suggested. I also cut out a 1" strip of 3/32" balsa for the elevator, but I don't have any hinges on hand so I was unable to completely finish it.

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This evening I cut out the fuse sides and glued on the nose doublers. I also began cutting out some of the formers. I'm pretty sure cutting the formers out of ply is the most laborious task yet. I have two down, and 4 or 5 left to do.

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Do I need to start planning out the placement of my servos and gather all my radio gear before I glue the plane together, or will I be able to put in the electronics after its all built? I know gluing up the model won't be for a while, but I'm just trying to get my thoughts together.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 11:43 AM
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Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Aviano
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You'll be fine just leaving the top (or bottom) sheeting off until you have servos and pushrods in place. This design used a single solid control rod way back when... I used to use 1/16 music wire ends on 1/4 inch square balsa sticks for my pushrods, and 1/4 by 1/8 spruce rails to hold the servos...

Now, I'd recommend double sided foam tape to hold servos against the sides and carbon rods.

I prefer to frame up as much as possible so I can play with servo and battery location to avoid nose weight. Not as big a deal now with 9 gram servos and all... We used to be stuck using 30 gram standard servos and AA receiver packs...
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 12:22 AM
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Maine
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Nicholas,

I've been watching your build and have enjoyed the progress. I am building a Lanier Indicator right now that is very similar in many ways to the Minnie Mambo.

Anyway, here is some inspiration:
Little Traveler I Flight for St. Jude Children's Research Hospital, October 10th, 2009 (5 min 59 sec)
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 10:47 AM
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I think I started watching that a long time ago and never finished. That's a great video and a daring accomplishment.

All this time and I never knew You were kpriddle.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 12:45 AM
Slow 'n Steady...Grease 'r In
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Maine
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Rusty,

I'm sorry. Actually, that's not me, but now that I look at that guy's channel, he seems like a pretty cool guy! Last night, I just saw his incredible flight and had to show Nicholas.

KP
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 12:54 AM
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That's an awesome video and it's a great cause he's flying for! Thanks for posting!
If he could fly for 30 minutes on a 4oz tank, wouldn't it be cool to put like, I don't know, an 8oz tank in it and fly for an hour! :P it would be a pretty long time to fly, but it'd be kind of cool. Which gets me thinking . . . What size of fuel tank do y'all recommend? And where should I put it inside the plane? I don't have one of those fancy tanks that mount directly to the engine's back so I'll have to put something inside the plane.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 01:07 AM
Slow 'n Steady...Grease 'r In
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I'm using a large 2oz. tank in my Indicator right now, and that will probably allow the SureStart to run for about 15 minutes. As you guessed, a one ounce tank should provide about half that time.

Make sure your tank is right up from behind your firewall. You will not want your fuel lines to be too long, or fuel pickup will be difficult for the engine (you want good suction).

KP
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpriddle View Post
I'm using a large 2oz. tank in my Indicator right now, and that will probably allow the SureStart to run for about 15 minutes. As you guessed, a one ounce tank should provide about half that time.

Make sure your tank is right up from behind your firewall. You will not want your fuel lines to be too long, or fuel pickup will be difficult for the engine (you want good suction).

KP
How should the tank be vertically in relation to the engine? Does it need to be higher than the fuel inlet on the engine so the fuel is gravity fed?
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