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Old Mar 11, 2013, 08:09 PM
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Oh mine weighs in @1.4g don't know before weight, sorry. Sure if i had some smt crystals that would remove large chunk of weight, I've only to add 1 x m8 1 x resistor(0402) 1x led(0605) 1 x 100nf (0402) decoupling cap not going to count 2 x diodes there on power lead
Guess you could cut off pcb aerial and use wire?! Not sure about how to go about that yet.
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Old Mar 12, 2013, 04:34 PM
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Now with Wings! :)

Well wasn't happy enough to carry on so started again. Track had started to left, was 3.3 power trace where it was to be soldered so would have been fine but hey only make a few so get best as poss.

Well cleaned it all off and sanded solder resist just to add more adhesion.
Have had another go at layout with what i learned so far. Only thing i forgot to do was lightly sand copper before putting sellotape, whoops And made solder tabs longer so i can solder on other side so i can epoxy whole of the area and clean excess glue before it drys making soldering easier.



btw my start weight is 1.3g
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Old Mar 12, 2013, 05:15 PM
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New York
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my copper tape is on the way.
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Old Mar 12, 2013, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SadSack View Post
Easy tiger! If you want to go on a date?
Date ? HO BOY, HO BOY (while searching in wife wardrobe), HO BOY, HO BOY, gotta hurry, I have a date
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Old Mar 12, 2013, 06:11 PM
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"not that theres anything wrong with that..." lol!
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 04:14 AM
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update

I got it working binding signal's off 8 pins, 7/8 had solder bridge cleared every checkout on scope. So get ready for video (Why!!! ) well i pushed wrong off button on my bench supply...you know the one marked 30volts, only 1amp mind! Well it went off i guess RIP first module, bless it had a hard life this week lol
Well been long week I've put copper 12 times on back of module. My main problem was the 1/2 hour epoxy must have gone off or something. At times would go off rock hard other just stayed sticky but has nothing to do with process which works for me so happy there.

Things to watch for :
Ripples in epoxy under mcu but was using more epoxy than I have before. Tracks get closer together when rippled.
If you want to key up surface use steel wool gently 000 grade if you have it but i used regular plumbers grade I tried 240 grit (dry) left odd deep scratch which left breaks in toner, coppers very soft with no backing board. Used it without any surface keying just good solvent clean which was my last attempt which soldered fine and epoxy did go off great too.
I'd say use 1/2 hour epoxy I use Devcon 1/2 hour goes very shiny and hard even when very thin. Cheap 5min always appears rubbery still maybe that's just cheap nasty stuff I've had.

Well while i was sulking and wondering if it was worth this much effort idea came to me. Now I'd printed my layout on paper(toner) copper after etching still has toner on it. So did quick test cutting paper to size which cut half the tabs off. Then I just put tape on paper and ran it though laminator again and copper did stick to paper after peeling tape off and copper tabs exposed enough for soldering...sweet! I stopped there but thinking i can put epoxy on it heat it up and my cheap paper does let epoxy though and putting it though laminator again I should get ripple free surface, lest amount of epoxy need to get job done and left with something if i pop module i can reuse again!!! Sounds like a winner.
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 04:39 AM
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That sounds interesting. Are there any pictures or could you do some pics of the most important steps ?
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 04:42 AM
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Yeah sure. Have ago later tonight maybe
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 07:47 AM
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inspired by phracturedblues reverse engineering of the flysky/turnigy protocol and his devo tx add-on i decided to give homebrew rx a try. although it wasnt quite as easy as predicted, bright eyed and bushy tailed, i set sail. since there were no spi traces or code for a rx available my 1st step was to bring out spi signals on a stock rx (see pic below). i captured the scan sequence and already had pbs init list so it was time to build the prototype shown in next photo. it used mega8 (most popular avr for rc and also arduino compatible) along with a7105 module transplanted from one of my v911 radios. after many hours of pecking away in assembly i finally had something up and running.
....
What do you plan to use for power the motors ... any 4 n-fet chip available for little money, with 1A or 2A capability, in a small package ?
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 07:52 AM
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From the $18 thread I got he's using IRLML2502 or SI2302DS n-fets

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1141
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 08:00 AM
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From the $18 thread I got he's using IRLML2502 or SI2302DS n-fets

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1141
Thanks ... yes, I post on the wrong thread ... Dave has too many open ... so I got confused

IRML2502 is looking good .. 25cent each, 4Amp capable ...

Thanks
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 09:09 AM
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tracks did look brighter but didn't notice right away i'd push wrong button.
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by e_lm_70 View Post
Thanks ... yes, I post on the wrong thread ... Dave has too many open ... so I got confused

IRML2502 is looking good .. 25cent each, 4Amp capable ...

Thanks
i dont consider this wrong thread because the diy mw and rx projects are so closely related. and if i was bothered by off topic all my threads would be closed long time ago. lol!

2502 was my favorite fet for a long time. now i "cheat" on her with 2302 because this new girl costs half as much. since the motors i use rarely get above 900ma 2302 is more than adequate. if one does blow out i may consider going back to my first love but no reason to so far.
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Old Mar 17, 2013, 01:04 AM
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dave1993
How to Contact you? May you tell me your Email?
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Old Mar 17, 2013, 03:33 AM
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dave1993
How to Contact you? May you tell me your Email?
Dave isn't allowed internet on the weekends.
Wait till Monday.
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