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Old Jan 09, 2013, 03:48 PM
Registered User
Canada, ON, Hamilton
Joined Oct 2005
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For small models using 1/16th to 1/8th stringers I’ve used my Dremel tool with the cut off disk. Formers are lined up in the fuselage, a ruler is used to mark off (felt tip pen) where you want the stringers, all in a nice straight or curved line. Next, wearing safety glasses, I just anchor the fuselage so it doesn’t move, and then use both hands to guide the Dremel tool. I rest one hand on the work surface and use just wrist action to position the tool for the cuts. No splinters, quick and easy.
John
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 05:04 PM
Edubarca
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Colombia, South America
Joined Oct 2009
1,112 Posts
When I built my Envoy so many years ago, I did not change any thickness of the specified balsa and my model was very strong and light. Sometimes, one thinks that because a thinner size of balsa is used, the model will come out weaker. This is not the case with the Envoy. Mr. Shaw knew exactly what he was designing. By the way, anybody knows if he is still around?
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 05:05 PM
Edubarca
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Colombia, South America
Joined Oct 2009
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If difficulty cutting stringer notches on the formers, have the formers laser cut. This is the best way.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 06:05 PM
Experienced Balsa Mangler
United States, AL, Tillmans Corner
Joined Oct 2012
654 Posts
Day 9 -- Yes, Virginia, There Is A Workbench Under There!

What a difference a few days make...

Photo 1: Same workbench as seen in the other thread, same angle. Where'd the mess go?

Photo 2: The rudder pattern waiting for balsa. Might have this one tonight...

Photo 3: The stabilizer, also waiting. Hopefully by this weekend.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 06:15 PM
Experienced Balsa Mangler
United States, AL, Tillmans Corner
Joined Oct 2012
654 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edubarca
When I built my Envoy so many years ago, I did not change any thickness of the specified balsa and my model was very strong and light. Sometimes, one thinks that because a thinner size of balsa is used, the model will come out weaker. This is not the case with the Envoy. Mr. Shaw knew exactly what he was designing. By the way, anybody knows if he is still around?
Understood, Edubarca, and no disagreement intended. I've seen balsa structures that could hold up many times their weight, so I'm sure 1/16" sheet would work for this model. I just ran out of my stock, and didn't want to purchase any more at this time. But I did have plenty of short pieces of 3/32" laying around. So far, I haven't had to buy any supplies to build this one. All it has cost me to this point has been some time drawing up the pieces (and cleaning up The Mess...).
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 06:47 PM
Experienced Balsa Mangler
United States, AL, Tillmans Corner
Joined Oct 2012
654 Posts
Day 9 -- We Have Construction!

The rudder is now assembled and drying on the bench. I'm using Titebond Clear instead of CA.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 06:52 PM
Edubarca
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Colombia, South America
Joined Oct 2009
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Nowadays. I just can't see myself building without CA. Is like not having a cellphone or a PC. I would be dead if I didn't have them. And so, how did we survive without them some 20 years ago? I just don't understand. Your Envoy is coming real nice. Tempts me to build one!!!

Eduardo
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 06:54 PM
Edubarca
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Colombia, South America
Joined Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpmcgraw View Post
Understood, Edubarca, and no disagreement intended. I've seen balsa structures that could hold up many times their weight, so I'm sure 1/16" sheet would work for this model. I just ran out of my stock, and didn't want to purchase any more at this time. But I did have plenty of short pieces of 3/32" laying around. So far, I haven't had to buy any supplies to build this one. All it has cost me to this point has been some time drawing up the pieces (and cleaning up The Mess...).
To be fully honest with you, I also sometimes use different sizes of balsa sheet. Although here in Colombia balsa is abundant and very cheap, I live in a farm about 30 miles from Bogotá, and I just dislike to visit the big city with all those traffic congestions etc. So I use whatever I have on hand and tell no one hehehehehe!!!
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 08:04 PM
Experienced Balsa Mangler
United States, AL, Tillmans Corner
Joined Oct 2012
654 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edubarca
"...here in Colombia balsa is abundant and very cheap..."
Here in Mobile, Alabama, the Hobby Lobby chain store sells a single 1/16" x 4" x 36" sheet for (US) $4. I can at least say the Hobbytown USA store is more reasonably priced...

I have a larger project in the wings, a KK Falcon, which I'll be posting shots of one day, and I'll be needing a lot more balsa for it. I'm just holding off on that order as long as I can...
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 09:05 PM
Experienced Balsa Mangler
United States, AL, Tillmans Corner
Joined Oct 2012
654 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edubarca View Post
Nowadays. I just can't see myself building without CA. Is like not having a cellphone or a PC. I would be dead if I didn't have them. And so, how did we survive without them some 20 years ago? I just don't understand. Your Envoy is coming real nice. Tempts me to build one!!!

Eduardo
CA glues are good when used properly, but they also can become a bit of a crutch. I'm reaching a point in my life where my fingers don't want to manipulate balsa strips and tools like they once did. CA glues, even the thick ones, grab too quickly for my slowing response time. I started using Titebond formulas and began enjoying my builds again. Not instant joinery, but not overnight either. Usually just an hour or so and the joints are cured sufficiently to remove from the board.

I wish I had been shown these "construction adhesives" back in the '70s when I was getting started in RC...
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 09:23 PM
Experienced Balsa Mangler
United States, AL, Tillmans Corner
Joined Oct 2012
654 Posts
Day 9 -- Rudder Framed

And the rudder has been pulled from the bench, after cooking for just 3 hours...
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 10:02 PM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Ilkley, West Yorkshire, UK
Joined Nov 2008
3,515 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpmcgraw View Post
CA glues, even the thick ones, grab too quickly for my slowing response time. I started using Titebond formulas and began enjoying my builds again. Not instant joinery, but not overnight either. Usually just an hour or so and the joints are cured sufficiently to remove from the board.
I'm using Titebond as well (Titebond II I believe) which I presume is an aliphatic resin based adhesive. However, I still leave overnight before lifting off the board - probably more through habit and the fact that it suits my way of working (I rarely work in a 30-60 minute session every few days). So it's OK to lift after an hour?

For me, CA has limited uses in the building phase, more in the 'repair phase'. Disadvantages of CA are that it's rock hard to sand, it can be brittle, it'll stick the frame to whatever you've covered the plan with, and if the joint for any reason comes adrift, you can't restick with CA as it doesn't seem to like sticking to itself...
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 09:10 AM
Experienced Balsa Mangler
United States, AL, Tillmans Corner
Joined Oct 2012
654 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colonel Blink
I'm using Titebond as well (Titebond II I believe) which I presume is an aliphatic resin based adhesive. However, I still leave overnight before lifting off the board - probably more through habit and the fact that it suits my way of working (I rarely work in a 30-60 minute session every few days). So it's OK to lift after an hour?
I like the Titebond II and Translucent formulas for their "stiction" [real NASA word!] properties. My "other hobby" is model rocketry, and when it comes to attaching balsa fins to cardboard tubes, nothing beats a good aliphatic resin. These grab with just enough hold, but still give me time to make adjustments before they sieze completely. Surface drying time is within two hours, although the curing time may take longer.

Quote:
For me, CA has limited uses in the building phase, more in the 'repair phase'. Disadvantages of CA are that it's rock hard to sand, it can be brittle, it'll stick the frame to whatever you've covered the plan with, and if the joint for any reason comes adrift, you can't restick with CA as it doesn't seem to like sticking to itself...
Agree completely, Colonel. Sometimes it's more trouble than solution. With my rockets, the only place I use CA is to seal label paper "skins" to balsa fins around the outer edges. That's about it...

The nice thing about Titebond is the water clean-up afterward. I apply glue with a brush, and all I have to do is swish the brush in a paper cup of water to clean it out.
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 09:14 AM
Experienced Balsa Mangler
United States, AL, Tillmans Corner
Joined Oct 2012
654 Posts
Day 10 -- Stabilizer

The parts are starting to come together now, and it's beginning to look like an airplane. I've dry-fitted the loose balsa into the pattern to see if the cut-outs were OK, and as Photo 1 shows, it's a pretty sight!
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 11:37 AM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Ilkley, West Yorkshire, UK
Joined Nov 2008
3,515 Posts
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Originally Posted by cpmcgraw View Post
The nice thing about Titebond is the water clean-up afterward. I apply glue with a brush, and all I have to do is swish the brush in a paper cup of water to clean it out.
Well, I ever knew that...!
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