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Old Jan 07, 2013, 06:12 PM
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Thanks!
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 06:44 PM
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United States, OR, Portland
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Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
Wish more x1/t9x owners out there could give me more inputs.
I just flew 4 packs. 2 on the stock transmiter on high rates and 2 on the 9x with 125% on AER and 30% negative expo on AE and 40% negative on R.

The difference was pretty slight. I felt like I had a touch more cyclic and yaw but I still needed a lot of room to recover from fast forward flight and banked turns weren't any easier. I really like the flip button as that is all the aerobatics this quad can do with the stock firmware. Until someone figures out how to make it flip with the 9X I will probably keep using the stock tx.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 09:04 PM
Hooper, full throttle!
Tommy D's Avatar
USA, NY, East Islip
Joined Feb 2004
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Has anyone opened the stock TX?

Reason I'm asking is after flying this little thing outdoors tonight I can say it's the best $35 I have spent in this hobby in a long time. So much so I flew the Lipo into LVC!

So while putting the model away I drop the tiny TX (hey it's cold and my hands swallow this little thing up!) and the "nub" of an antenna busts off. (hollow little nub)

Can't test my TX till I charge the batt.

So am I screwed?
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 09:11 PM
Against Helicopter Cruelty
Heli Pad's Avatar
Joined Aug 2011
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You're not screwed. I have not opened up this Tx. But it is typical in these toys that they don't use a real radio antenna. The "antenna" is a trace in the circuit board, carefully crafted to the match the wavelength of the transmission. In a way, it is effective enough for our purpose. Therefore, the nub is a fake antenna, designed to make it look sophisticated. Like you said, you broke of a non-functional piece of hollow plastic. That's about the extend of the damage. If you care, just glue it back with some superglue.

On the other hand, you might want to use that as an excuse and buy yourself a Turnigy 9x programmable radio.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 11:06 PM
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United States, OR, Portland
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Added lights, ditched the canopy and removed the battery tray and added velcro. I also made a 4-lead parallel lead for my charger so I can charge all my nano tech 300 homemades at once! I too am having more fun than I have had in quite some time. If stuff like this costs less than $40 imagine how cool toys are going to be in another 5 years.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 11:30 PM
rather fly, but this'll do
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Portland, OR
Joined Feb 2008
782 Posts
How's the flight time with the 300's?
Very pretty work bench, by the way
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 01:14 AM
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United States, OR, Portland
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Originally Posted by krefi View Post
How's the flight time with the 300's?
Very pretty work bench, by the way
6-7 minutes maybe. I almost never fly to the end of a battery. I usually just guess. After flying 4 batteries I put 650 mah back into all of them in parallel.

Thanks, my girlfriend might get a laugh out of calling the dining room table my "work bench". I do tend to take over flat surfaces and that's the first one I see when I walk in the door.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:41 AM
Hooper, full throttle!
Tommy D's Avatar
USA, NY, East Islip
Joined Feb 2004
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LOVE the lights! Care to share what size resistor you used on them? Im pretty sure I have a bunch leftover before light strips came along... but my resistors were selected for higher voltages.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 11:16 AM
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Tucson, Az
Joined Feb 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
You're not screwed. I have not opened up this Tx. But it is typical in these toys that they don't use a real radio antenna. The "antenna" is a trace in the circuit board, carefully crafted to the match the wavelength of the transmission. In a way, it is effective enough for our purpose. Therefore, the nub is a fake antenna, designed to make it look sophisticated. Like you said, you broke of a non-functional piece of hollow plastic. That's about the extend of the damage. If you care, just glue it back with some superglue.

On the other hand, you might want to use that as an excuse and buy yourself a Turnigy 9x programmable radio.
When you bind to T9X is it like the V929 and nothing needs to be reversed? Example; 9958 you need to revese some channels. V911's/V929 good as is. Thanks,Dan
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 11:29 AM
Against Helicopter Cruelty
Heli Pad's Avatar
Joined Aug 2011
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The txs of x1 and v929 is interchangeable. So, whatever you have on the t9x for one will work on the other.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 11:52 AM
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United States, AR
Joined Mar 2009
516 Posts
OK I'm in. Got one of these for Christmas. I've always wanted a quad for video but thought it was way too expensive and unforgiving. I can't believe what you can get for not much money. Never thought I would but now I'm thinking of FPV.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
@Arr0wHead, Given that you don't have a proper charger for the Turnigy 600mAh, you would have to set a timer and charge them carefully. It is a chore. Go back to post #123, and consider a list of charging options there.

I am also very impressed by the stock battery performance. Even with the added OCP, it is about 6g lighter than a typical 600mAh. For that reason, a 600mAh battery will give longer flight time, but not nearly twice the flight time because of the added weight. Not to mention that the Nano Tech 600mAh is Long! And the battery plug is short. You have to carefully position the battery so that it is not off center. I have a handful of NT600, so I know.

I am much more pleased with the Hyperion 550mAh, because it is smaller, shorter, lighter, and punchier. The Hyperion, capable of handling high charge rate, has been one of my favorite 120SR batteries. But it comes with a big price tag. It costs about $8 per battery.

That's a long way of saying that the stock battery is actually quite a good option. I've looked at the Ebay deal. Seller is from Hong Kong. 3x battery is $18 (with shipping). If you don't mind buying from overseas. This is a much better deal.


X1-13: 350mAh Li-Po Battery 3.7v

See post #2 for more parts and pricing.
Hey Heli, the batteries arrived today! I also ordered the 949 charger for them, as I blew too much moolah and it was easier to buy a $5 charger for the new batteries than it was to spend another $15 on the correct x1 batteries. I still, however, would like to pick up some more of those x1-13 batteries in the future.

I have no charger for them yet, still in the mail, so the batteries I'll assume are at storage voltage. Still, I couldn't resist popping one in to test balance and power. You were correct, the battery sits off-center due to it's length. I left it that way, because I don't want to break off the little battery tabs on my x1 yet. With it inserted the same as the old battery the back end sticks out right to the edge of the canopy and doesn't show. With a quick 1 minute flight I found that the off-center battery did cause the x1 to drift a bit. Ended up needing around 4 clicks of trim on forward/back, and a couple clicks of left/right (aileron?) to get it to hover stable like before.

That's my 2 second update. I'll fill in more details once I get my charger, but it looks like for now I WILL be keeping these batteries for a bit, and the next bit of cash I have will go towards a good charger and cables for all my batteries.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 12:54 PM
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By the way, anyone looking to order a 949 battery charger grab one quick. I'm guessing they're going to triple in price over the next couple days. In fact, those Turnigy batteries I bought already went up $5 after I bought them.

Am I cursed?
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 02:26 PM
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United States, OR, Portland
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Originally Posted by Tommy D View Post
LOVE the lights! Care to share what size resistor you used on them? Im pretty sure I have a bunch leftover before light strips came along... but my resistors were selected for higher voltages.
These LEDs came with three different type of resistors. I think it was originally for the model train market. I want to say 240ohms but I could be wrong. They were the resistors for 5v.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 02:32 PM
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The Netherlands, NB, Heusden Gem Heusden
Joined Dec 2012
27 Posts
with leds more is better at least in the resister, the higher the resister value the less current it will draw, offcourse you need a minimum current to get enough brightness.
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