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Old Mar 09, 2013, 07:05 PM
Against Helicopter Cruelty
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Originally Posted by larrylwill View Post
I got mine last week and practiced in the living room and crashed about 100 times. Today the weather was great so I went outside where I hung it in 3 different trees and crashed it about another 100 times. Then I got brave and took it up above the house roof line and the wind caught it and blew it over the house toward the bluff, so I cut the power when I lost site and it flew completely over the house and started back toward the house and crashed inside the covered porch. However it broke a motor mount. I super glued it but I now have to order a new one and some extra batteries.
I have used the supply changer cable without problems and last night I forgot it and it was plugged in all night. No problem.
Some adventures you have, Larry! Question, are you on Low rate or High rate? So you know, if you're on Low rate outdoor, it would be super difficult. Be sure to use High rate.

Well, if you have a couple of hundred crashes and you only broke one plastic part, that was not bad at all! LOL

Replacement parts are cheap order yourself a few parts, and some batteries. Get the stock batteries if you do not want to spend money on a new charger. Otherwise, you must get a charger with protection to use non-stock batteries. Otherwise, if you forget it and let it charge over night, it could be dangerous.

Although we've covered this several times over, if you have any questions about batteries and charging, any questions at all, I'd rather you ask them and we'll address them again.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 07:23 PM
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United States, AL, Section
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Thanks for the advice, I'm an electronics engineer and frequently do stupid things with electric things. Learning this is a lot more difficult that learning to fly a slow stick alone. However that is the fun in it. I built a Li-Ion charger some years ago for 4.2v cells. I have been meaning to get one for varying #s of cells.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 07:27 PM
Learning more each day....
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United States, RI, Portsmouth
Joined Nov 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrylwill View Post
I got mine last week and practiced in the living room and crashed about 100 times. Today the weather was great so I went outside where I hung it in 3 different trees and crashed it about another 100 times. Then I got brave and took it up above the house roof line and the wind caught it and blew it over the house toward the bluff, so I cut the power when I lost site and it flew completely over the house and started back toward the house and crashed inside the covered porch. However it broke a motor mount. I super glued it but I now have to order a new one and some extra batteries.
I have used the supply changer cable without problems and last night I forgot it and it was plugged in all night. No problem.
Hah...
Make sure you read my screed on getting them out of the tree......
http://droneflyers.com/2013/02/getti...t-of-the-tree/

Bamboo is quite good for the low ones!
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 07:33 PM
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Somewhere in this forum is my thread with pictures of my Slow Stick about 100ft up in a tree. I twice had to use my trusty fishing rod to get it down. One time I was standing on the top of my chimney which was about 35ft above the ground fishing it down. Another time I lost it for 2 days before I found it at the top of another tree. I had 30 acres with 15 in gigantic oak trees. You can search my name as poster, that was about 10 years ago.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 09:29 PM
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What spair parts would you suggest I buy? I found all parts at http://www.symatoystore.com/Syma-Spa...X1-Spare-Parts
But they are in Hong Kong and offer free shipping.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
Welcome to RCG. First a couple of question for you. When it hit a tree and broke X1-11, did it break the white nylon gear, or the aluminum shaft? You said shaft, but how did the shaft break?
Hi, and sorry for delay, not a lot of time in last days...
It broke the metal shaft, just a little (1-2 millimeters) INSIDE the blade holder.


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Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
Where did you order the replacement parts from that you get in just 24 hours? I'm interested to know.
I bought at a Italian real/mail shop, I wonder if they even sells outside of Italy... the site is in Italian only, if you want to try, this is the list of spares for X1:
http://www.eligasper.com/index.php?m...x&cPath=57_262


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Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
The Aluminum shaft is pressure fitted on both ends, one end is the main gear, and the other is the blade limiter (X1-15). If you could just twist, turn and pull, they will slowly come apart. Trouble is how do you twist and pull the limiter when there is nothing to hold on to? I believe the trick is to leave the rotor on. Keep the rotor screwed onto the limiter and use it as leverage. So, grab the main gear on one end, the while rotor assembly on the other, twist and pull until they come apart.
My trouble is that the main gear shaft is now broken, so I have no a shaft to pull.
And the shop where I bought spare main gear has not in spare parts list the blade holder piece.

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Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
If that doesn't work, you might have to break apart the old main gear to separate them. You have a new one from the replacement part.
Not sure what you meant: the main gear is yet broken, I could even throw aweay as is broken and the spare is on workbench... my trouble is how to remove the small "piece" of shaft broken into blade holder

Quote:
Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
Since everything is pressure fitted, to reinstall, I would just find wood blocks as spacers, and hammer it in. Put some soapy water on to make the job a little easier. It'll be tight after it dries.

Let us know how it all works out for you.
Soapy water seems a good idea for reassembling, first I have to "free" the hole.

Thanks for suggestion.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Highly Grounded View Post
M
I think he said he used a vise to hold the plastic piece in question, then used guitar/piano wire held with pliers to push the broken metal piece out. Drilling it out will be a problem because, unless you glue it, you will make the internal diameter larger that the shaft and it will not stay "press fit" onto the new shaft.

@jam: yes; oh yes; hell yes. (make sure to use type:acro)
The way I tried to push the broken piece is somewhat the one you suggested, just I used the (broken) shaft itself, as I did not have a readily available piano wire.
The idea of drilling an hole to destroy the piece came from an experience with a rounded Allen-type screw. It was a 6-8 millimeter screw, drilled a 5 mm hole, then inserted the "thin" end of a file and turned it with (big) pliers... it worked, but it was a 10X bigger hole. The key, in that case, was to reduce strenght of thread against the hole (female thread).

Should I use glue to reassemble, I suppose that centering of the hole would be critical... dunno ?

Thank for your interest.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 09:56 PM
Against Helicopter Cruelty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrylwill View Post
What spair parts would you suggest I buy? I found all parts at http://www.symatoystore.com/Syma-Spa...X1-Spare-Parts
But they are in Hong Kong and offer free shipping.
All the spare parts, and compatible accessories are listed in Post #2 of this thread because I know that this question would come up often. You could click on the pictures and see a price quote. SymaToyStore is one of the parts vendor, but I don't think that they prices are the best. Compare them yourself.

IMHO, the parts that need most replacing are the blades, shafts and those while plastic limiters that goes between the shaft and blades (X1-15). The CF arms could split, but they are quite strong. You'd probably like a motor mount or two. That's about it.

As for upgrades, (go further down the list on post #2), I think LED lights, batteries and chargers are the most common accessories.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post

When you guys said "broke the shaft", did you mean the shaft snapped and became two pieces?!?
In a word... YES !
Shaft snapped at point whwre it is inserted in the screw holder.
Tomorrow, (5 am now, here), I will try to shot some pics of broken parts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
Well, if that's the case, what I described earlier would not work, because you have the gear attached to one piece and the limiter to another.



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Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
You guys must live in very cold places.
That day, there was about 15 Celsius... maybe the warmest day since October.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 10:12 PM
Against Helicopter Cruelty
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Quetzal, Yes, I realized that I didn't fully appreciate the damage you were describing at first. So, my first comments did not help. You would have to use something thin and strong to push the broken shaft out, in order to preserve the part you couldn't source from this Italian shop.

It doesn't solve your immediate problem, but you might like to go to post #2 and order a few of these plastic piece (X1-15), so you don't have to do this in the future.

Get some sleep and good luck tomorrow.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by --Oz-- View Post
See my post for my method to remove stubborn shafts.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...4#post24128573
Thanks you, your method is, essentially, the same I tried.
Will try again, using a little more strenght to push the broken shaft.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
All the spare parts, and compatible accessories are listed in Post #2 of this thread because I know that this question would come up often. You could click on the pictures and see a price quote. SymaToyStore is one of the parts vendor, but I don't think that they prices are the best. Compare them yourself.

IMHO, the parts that need most replacing are the blades, shafts and those while plastic limiters that goes between the shaft and blades (X1-15). The CF arms could split, but they are quite strong. You'd probably like a motor mount or two. That's about it.

As for upgrades, (go further down the list on post #2), I think LED lights, batteries and chargers are the most common accessories.
Good suggestions helipad, as always.

Lots of people use Banggood.com for the excellent prices "if" you can wait 20-30 days for the parts to get here.

My number one part now is the motors, with the amount of flight time I get (5-7 batteries a day and 9 to 14 minutes each), they are on my list of spares.

FYI, there is two different motors, the LF and RR use Red/Blue wire motors and RF and LR use Black/White wire motors.

I do not know your flying capabilities or your past RC experience, so this may not apply.

When I was learning to fly my first quad, for a awhile always keep the nose pointed away from you (this keeps the orientation correct), get used to right stick and throttle, once in a while correcting yaw (rudder) if needed to keep the nose pointed away from you, once you can control these three channels without crashing, (took me about 10 days), then start to control yaw, took me about 4 days and now I can fly pretty well carving nice smooth banked turns and I am able to put the quad where I want it, so I built a larger quad with more power. Good luck, YMMV
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Quetzal.mi View Post
Thanks you, your method is, essentially, the same I tried.
Will try again, using a little more strenght to push the broken shaft.
For the most stubborn stuck shafts, I use vise grips on the piano wire and tap it with a screw driver handle acting as a small hammer.
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 07:50 AM
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How to fit the HobbyKing 145mm LED ring to the SYMA X1 Quadcopter.

x1 quad with leds (1 min 37 sec)


White http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ble_Modes.html

Green http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ble_Modes.html

Red http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ble_Modes.html

Blue http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ble_Modes.html

Iv'e had a few PM's asking me how to fit the HobbyKing 145mm LED ring to the SYMA X1 Quadcopter.

So here we go! This is how i did it.

Lets have a look at the 145mm LED ring first.

Features
Simple and easy installation
No separate controller required
10 lighting modes selectable by on-board switch
3.3~5.5V input voltage range

Specs:
Power Supply: 3.3~5.5VDC
Consumption Current: 30mA ON / 2mA OFF
ON/OFF Control: PWM 760uS
Color: White
Size: 145mm diameter
Weight: 15g

So will the 145mm ring fit the under side of the X1 ? And what to fix it to ?

If you look at the gearbox molding at the end of the arm you will see it has a nice flat step on it (as you can see in the first photo)

That would be great to fit the ring to

So i placed the ring to the 4 steps to the bottom sides of the 4 gearbox moldings and...... Bugger! the LED ring was 8mm to wide in diamiter to sit on the 4 steps

That was no problem all i had to do was to extend the front arms by 8mm

To do this i took off the canopy of the X1 to get good access to the arms, and remove the clear protective moulding covering the electronics (you will need a small screwdriver set fo this) and pulled on each of the front arms.
As you can see in photo 2

I think the arms are only push fit as thay moved easily (or very lighly glued no sure )

Now your Led ring should sit nicely on the 4 steps on the under side of the gearbox moldings now the front arms have been extended.

You could now just glue or hot-glue the LED ring to the under side of the 4gearbox moldings if you wanted.

But i wanted to be able to remove the LED ring if i wanted to replace a motor so this is how i fixed my LED ring to the 4 gearbox moldings...

Get some (GOOD QUALITY) electrical tape and clear sticky tape and look for some 1.5-2mm plastic sheet (any old plastic will do) and cut 4 bits of the plastic sheet to 20mm x 9mm in size .

Now sandwich the LED ring to the under side of the 4 gearbox moldings (with the 4 bits of plastic you have just cut) useing 4 terns of electrical tape and 4 terns of clear sticky tape over the top of the electrical tape .
As you can see i photos 3 4 and 5. (RED hatching denotes the LED ring, BLUE hatching denotes the plastic sheet cut to 20mm x 9mm. And the yellow the tape.) Hope the photos make sence

Now you have taped the LED ring to your arms of your X1 it should look like this in photo 6 .

NOW FOR THE (HARD) BIT!!! ....... Soldering the the LED ring to the solder points of the Battery inputs of the the control board .

By now you should of removed the clear protective moulding covering to the electronics.

And this is what you will see in (Photo 7) the battery lead inputs on the control board . (Black lead -) (red lead +) as hightlited with the red arrow in photo 6.

Now get your HobbyKing 145mm LED ring and cut the plug off. You will now have the ring with RED BLACK and WHITE leads (THE WHITE LEAD IS REDUNDENT) so you could cut it back to the connection point of the ring if you want to, Its up to you but i didnt. (I might want to use the LED ring in the future for something)

OH! Darn it..!!! I forgot to say that when you fit the LED ring to your X1, make sure that the lead into the ring is as close to the battery lead inputs on the control board , for the sortest span of lead from the ring to the control board.

Now cut the leads from the ring so that leads reach to the battery lead inputs on the control board with a good 20mm extra to spare.

Now strip the red and the black leeds with some wire strippers to about 6mm and pre-tin the wires with some good old (tin-lead 0.8mm rosin core solder) DO NOT USE the cr%$#y new HIPPY TREE HUGGING low temp solder it wont work ! make sure you use good old (tin-lead 0.8mm rosin core solder)
You will allso need a small 25watt soldering iron with a small chisel tip . Do not use a pointed tip on your soldering iron ! (make sure you have a small chisel tip soldering iron)

Tips on soldering the leads to the control board.

If you look at poto 8 you will see the leads that i soldered to the battery in power joints. (The BLACK lead to - and the RED to +) as marked on the board. I soldered the black lead first to make i easier (Dont solder the red lead first because it will be harder to work on the black lead as its close to components on the control board) and you dont want to touch the components with your hot iron for to long .

Now hold your iron to the BLOB of solder on the power in on the control board (and hold the pre tined black lead to the BLOB of solder) within 3 seconds the solder BLOB and lead will start to melt and fuse together, now take your iron away from the joint (keep on holding the wire in place until the solder solidifies) this will happen quite quickly.
And dont forget that you MUST tin your lead first or the solder joint wont work. Now do the same with the red pre tined lead.

JOB DONE....

Now screw the clear protective covering back on, and fit the canopy back on.

Now wait for nightfall and take you flashing SYMA X1 Quadcopter out to the back yard and (SCARE THE LIVING DAYLIGHTS) out of your naybours..
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Last edited by richos; Mar 10, 2013 at 09:11 AM.
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 03:51 PM
LiPo-Sucker & Airframe EMT
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Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Joined Aug 2010
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Richos,

Pure genious. Thanks for all the photos and details.

Just for smiles, I ordered a 100mm ring in addition to the 145mm size.

One of them is the white LED version. I want to experiment with colored plastic wrap/cellophane over some of the white lights on the ring, to make a contrast or pattern which would assist visual orientation.

(The other ring on order is blue.......I'm thinking that a translucent yellow covering over some of the lights would result in a nice green color........)

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