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Old Mar 31, 2013, 02:39 PM
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Allan[/QUOTE]

Thanks Allan for the support,

I have other question about the buddy box , on the V2. Is possible to use a Spektrum Dx-7 or Dx-6i as a slave?

Which sd card recommend to upgrade? The SD card must be formatted on FAT modo? What do You think about the 2Gb Sandisk Card?


Thanks again, Miguel
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Old Apr 01, 2013, 01:53 AM
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Lincoln, NE
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I can't address using the DX7 or DX6i as a slave as I don't own either. Version 2 works properly with my 9303 as a slave in the ACRO program trainer mode. For a glider, the flap channel wasn't transferred. I don't know if that wasn't the case with version 1. I would think if those transmitters you mentioned worked with version 1, they would work with version 2.

I use a Kodak 2GB card. I've tried a SanDisk 1GB, class2, and it read and wrote with no problems. I've also tried a PNY 2GB with no problem. Initially JR recommended using nothing larger than 2GB, although some users reported getting away with a larger card. I'm not sure if it is the manufacturer or the speed class that causes some cards not to work. All the cards that I have didn't require formatting before use. I would recommend that before you upgrade to version 2, you try writing and reading some of your models to the card. You won't need a card any larger than 2GB as the model data is less than 15KB for version 2 and even less for version 1.

Allan
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Old Apr 01, 2013, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWorrest View Post
I can't address using the DX7 or DX6i as a slave as I don't own either. Version 2 works properly with my 9303 as a slave in the ACRO program trainer mode. For a glider, the flap channel wasn't transferred. I don't know if that wasn't the case with version 1. I would think if those transmitters you mentioned worked with version 1, they would work with version 2.

I use a Kodak 2GB card. I've tried a SanDisk 1GB, class2, and it read and wrote with no problems. I've also tried a PNY 2GB with no problem. Initially JR recommended using nothing larger than 2GB, although some users reported getting away with a larger card. I'm not sure if it is the manufacturer or the speed class that causes some cards not to work. All the cards that I have didn't require formatting before use. I would recommend that before you upgrade to version 2, you try writing and reading some of your models to the card. You won't need a card any larger than 2GB as the model data is less than 15KB for version 2 and even less for version 1.

Allan
Thanks a bunch!!
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Old Apr 08, 2013, 02:05 PM
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Joined Jun 2010
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Where can I download the software?

The link in this manual does not work.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/JR_1..._Update_v2.pdf
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Old Apr 08, 2013, 02:27 PM
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Joined Oct 2006
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Quote:
Where can I download the software?
If you go to the JR 11X page on the Horizon Hobby website, select the "Manuals & Support" tab, and then access the link though there, it should work.
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Old Apr 08, 2013, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Butthead View Post
If you go to the JR 11X page on the Horizon Hobby website, select the "Manuals & Support" tab, and then access the link though there, it should work.
Thanks, it didn't work through firefox but worked ok with IE.
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Old Apr 10, 2013, 01:00 PM
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
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Installed the update on one of my JR11x's and kept the other on 1.03.

A few things I like about the new firmware.

1. You can calibrate the sticks.
2. Servo Balance

One thing I don't like..

1. The model name is now not bolded in larger font, like the original


Also one thing I have noticed is under the voltage display on the main screen there occasionally appears a second voltage indication.. like this

10.6V
0.4V

I never saw it on the original firmware.. any ideas what it means?

It disappears if you go into the setup menu and seems to appear randomly
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Old Apr 10, 2013, 02:31 PM
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Lincoln, NE
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The lower voltage reading is what appears on the XG11 screen for the receiver voltage. It has no relevance for the 11X and as far as I know, it causes no harm. On my transmitter it pops up on very rare occasions. I would be curious to find a way to make it show up predicably.

Some of the functions on the version 2 upgrade are not 100% applicable to the 11X as it uses an analog throttle trim rather than the digital on the XG11. I believe the principal purpose of the stick calibration is to facilitate changing the throttle stick from one side to the other. Otherwise, I have found no need for it and I haven't had the guts to try it yet.

Another function in this category is the stick mode. It has one useful purpose though. For a V-tail RES sailplane, set the mode to number four and you can get both the rudder and elevator function on the right stick without a lot of extra programming.

Allan
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Old Apr 10, 2013, 04:53 PM
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Allan the stick calibration menu except for mode changes also comes in handy when one installs the travel adjusters for throttle and or elevator.


Quote:
Originally Posted by AWorrest View Post
I believe the principal purpose of the stick calibration is to facilitate changing the throttle stick from one side to the other. Otherwise, I have found no need for it and I haven't had the guts to try it yet.
Allan
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Old Apr 10, 2013, 09:26 PM
Too many numbers
United States, IL, Lake in the Hills
Joined Oct 2010
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Just updated mine. Kinda freaked me out at first because I didnt' read the release notes nor watch the video before updating- so when all my models (only 5) all dissapeared, I was alarmed. But then I remembered all my models are pretty basic and it would take all of 2 minutes to rebind and set them up again. Other than losing my saves, I really like the update. I think the menu is better organized. Glad I did it.
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Old Apr 10, 2013, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWorrest View Post
The lower voltage reading is what appears on the XG11 screen for the receiver voltage. It has no relevance for the 11X and as far as I know, it causes no harm. On my transmitter it pops up on very rare occasions. I would be curious to find a way to make it show up predicably.

Some of the functions on the version 2 upgrade are not 100% applicable to the 11X as it uses an analog throttle trim rather than the digital on the XG11. I believe the principal purpose of the stick calibration is to facilitate changing the throttle stick from one side to the other. Otherwise, I have found no need for it and I haven't had the guts to try it yet.

Another function in this category is the stick mode. It has one useful purpose though. For a V-tail RES sailplane, set the mode to number four and you can get both the rudder and elevator function on the right stick without a lot of extra programming.

Allan
Yes the 2nd voltage display is strange on the 11x. it sometimes shows 0.4v and at other times 10.0V. Seems random and I can't trace a cause for why it shows differently sometimes..

As for calibration... Try this.. set up a new model, standard wing, 1 aileron, no v-tail etc. (so each channel just displays its own movement without mixing)

Now without moving the sticks.. adjust the aileron trim left and right and see how many clicks it takes to display movement...

Most radios will not display evenly.. IE, my 11X will require 4 trim clicks right before the indicator moves on the monitor for the aileron.. but it will move left with just one click...

IE.. the centre calibration position is not exactly perfect..

Its a bit of trial an error but I have managed to calibrate my 11X on V2 firmware so that every channel (elev, Ail, Rudd) is perfectly symmetrical. IE two clicks from centre in any direction will display movement on the monitor screen exactly.

Futaba and Spektrum are the same.. I spend a few minutes with any new radio to ensure the sticks are calibrated exactly perfectly this way..

Its a tiny difference when flying, but I notice it when flying 3D helis.

Check your radio, I bet at least two channels are not symmetrical.. I have never had a perfect calibration from the factory
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Old Apr 11, 2013, 03:32 AM
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Lincoln, NE
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Your post gave me the incentive to examine the stick calibration function. The aileron, elevator and rudder weren't bad. The throttle was off a bit. After going through the procedure several times, my sticks' calibration is now better by two orders of magnitude than my flying ability warrants.

Allan
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Old Apr 11, 2013, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWorrest View Post
Your post gave me the incentive to examine the stick calibration function. The aileron, elevator and rudder weren't bad. The throttle was off a bit. After going through the procedure several times, my sticks' calibration is now better by two orders of magnitude than my flying ability warrants.

Allan
Great to hear it.. some TXs are much worse than others but if the system lets you calibrate the sticks I can always fix it.

Don't worry, I was too scared to try it on my 8FG for the first 12 months.. so I completely understood your previous post.. It gives me peace of mind knowing the sticks are calibrated perfectly..
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Old Apr 11, 2013, 09:37 AM
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I might have a look at my stick calibration. But I have so many models with touchy elevator and aileron trim that I'm not sure I'd want to mess with it. I guess I could always try it and reset it if it's not better.

Bill
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Old Apr 11, 2013, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by CatBird View Post
I might have a look at my stick calibration. But I have so many models with touchy elevator and aileron trim that I'm not sure I'd want to mess with it. I guess I could always try it and reset it if it's not better.

Bill
Not sure if you can reset it.. but you can recalibrate it as many times as you want.. Sometimes it takes me 3 or 4 attempts before I am completely happy with it. I'll post a vid tomorrow.. 1am here now..
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