Thank you George,

I have done silver soldering of small parts before, I have no problems with applying too much heat or solder, my only concern is distortion. I have no doubt that Loctite is excellent solution too, because a few times I had to remove a bearing or a sleeve that has been Loctited in, and that is one difficult job, especially if you can not apply heat.

Thanks for the info regarding webs, I would definitely blunder into that one ! So they do not want to reprint drawings ? Ok, that costs a lot of money, but what about throwing in extra piece of paper with correct information ? A quarter of A4 sheet would be more than enough !! One would imagine that for the price they charge for castings, one small note would not bankrupt them...

As far as machining the bearings is concerned.... Hmmm, your solution is so simple, and here I am designing holders and stuff. I have been known to over complicate things.

My name is Zelko, just in case you wonder where that came from, I was born in former Yugoslavia. That place ended up back in stone age ( ok, Bronze age ), and I was given a new country. Australia is not perfect but it is 99% there !

George, thank you for all the info !

Zelko

Originally Posted by ZED_C

Thank you George,

I have done silver soldering of small parts before, I have no problems with applying too much heat or solder, my only concern is distortion. I have no doubt that Loctite is excellent solution too, because a few times I had to remove a bearing or a sleeve that has been Loctited in, and that is one difficult job, especially if you can not apply heat.

Thanks for the info regarding webs, I would definitely blunder into that one ! So they do not want to reprint drawings ? Ok, that costs a lot of money, but what about throwing in extra piece of paper with correct information ? A quarter of A4 sheet would be more than enough !! One would imagine that for the price they charge for castings, one small note would not bankrupt them...

As far as machining the bearings is concerned.... Hmmm, your solution is so simple, and here I am designing holders and stuff. I have been known to over complicate things.

My name is Zelko, just in case you wonder where that came from, I was born in former Yugoslavia. That place ended up back in stone age ( ok, Bronze age ), and I was given a new country. Australia is not perfect but it is 99% there !

George, thank you for all the info !

Zelko

Zelko,

It just lets you see that us old woolly heads have a few tricks up our sleeve,
the 1/32" thk strip came from a book many years ago called BUILDING A VERTICAL STEAM ENGINE and since then I have used this method many times.

I did suggest to the former manager of Stuart's to print some sticky labels with the info on the wrong dimension and was told that they would do this when issuing new drawings, but alas not so.
I don't know if this particular printed drawing is still issued buy the new owners..

George.

Hi.
Great book !
I got a copy when I built my first 10V , and it covers the D10 (just 2 10Vs joined) and the horizontal engines. It is full of usefull tips .
Dunc2504

Did some work on Sole plate and main bearings today. Temperature in Sydney reached 43 degrees but I still managed to get a few things done.

However, I have encountered a bit of a problem. Distance between bearings when fitted into the Sole plate is 15.87mm (5/8), but distance across crankshaft webs according to the drawing is about 17.4mm, (cant remember exact Imperial size). I checked and rechecked bearing dimensions, but everything is spot on size. Bearings are not bolted down yet, I just centered them into the slot (lengthwise) and took measurements

Did anybody else encounter this problem before ?

Originally Posted by ZED_C

Did some work on Sole plate and main bearings today. Temperature in Sydney reached 43 degrees but I still managed to get a few things done.

However, I have encountered a bit of a problem. Distance between bearings when fitted into the Sole plate is 15.87mm (5/8), but distance across crankshaft webs according to the drawing is about 17.4mm, (cant remember exact Imperial size). I checked and rechecked bearing dimensions, but everything is spot on size. Bearings are not bolted down yet, I just centered them into the slot (lengthwise) and took measurements

Did anybody else encounter this problem before ?

Zelko,
This is what I was trying to say on my previous post, the 5/8" between the bearings is the O/All width over the crank webs, i.e. 5/16" inside the web + 5/32" x 2 for the webs gives 5/8" but if Stuart's have supplied 3/16" Bright flat bar this throws the dimensions out.
5/32" bright flat bar is no longer available in the U.K. hence the 3/16".
This means that the center bearing if you use 3/16" thk B.M.S. flat should be 23/32" not 25/32" and the 2- outside bearings need to be trimmed to fit.
Or if you stick to the original method of using 5/32" thk B.M.S. flat the drawing is correct.

It should be no problem to you with your skills to make the webs from round bar, part then off to 5/32" thk.

Hope this helps.

George.

My holidays ended last week, so I will be able to work on my engine on Saturdays only. Did some drilling and tapping this week, I'm quite pleased with the progress so far.
I was surprised to hear that Stuart does not have a reversing kit for this engine. I am planning to make this engine reversible, I hope that they will have something available soon...

Hi Zed.
That is news to me .
They did do a set of castings for reverse linkages , try scouring ebay if they are out of production , or 2 sets for a 10V would do.
Dunc2504

Andy told me that they are currently out of stock, he did not even tell me what the price might be. Nothing listed on their site, except for spare parts for the kit ? Judging by the price of spares, it is more expensive than the engine itself ! I would like to get it now because I would like to avoid making valve rods and eccentrics twice.

Hi,
I would just buy the eccentric straps (they are shaped blanks) the exppansion links(cast) and the lever and mounting brackets (castings) , the rest can be made from bar and rod stock.
Dunc2504

I also built this boiler, it is far too small for D10, but it is big enough to run PM number 3 steam engine. I did not use rivets that came with the boiler, I used blind pop rivets instead, much easier to use.
I did many things in my career, riveting "old school" rivets isn't one of them, so I took easier option. Otherwise it was quite enjoyable little project...
Apparently D10 needs 1.39 cubic inches of steam per revolution (according to Macsteam formula), which would require quite sizable boiler to run it at at least half of its rated RPM.