As the V922 is cheap, I suppose many FBL CP helicopter beginners may buy and fly it without learning the basics of flying CP helis. If you're new to FBL CPs, you may like to note the following:

In case of emergency, activate Throttle Hold to cut power to the motors. This slows down and eventually stop the rotor blades from spinning. This is better than reducing throttle stick to 0%. When you do that, the motor slows down but at the same time, the main rotor pitch becomes negative. As the blades are still spinning but with negative pitch, the heli would be pushed downwards in addition to the gravitational pull. The result is a heli that accelerates towards the ground, i.e. a harder crash.

When the helicopter is on the ground, spool up slowly from 0% to 50% to reduce unwanted tail movement. You can correct it by applying a bit of right rudder. It is normal for the heli to not lift off at 50% throttle.

To lift off the ground, give it more throttle but do it quick. You would want to lift off ground as fast as possible as you do not want to fight ground effect. Do not apply any cyclic controls while the rotors spin and the heli is on the ground! The flybarless gyros would be confused because it expects the heli to be in the air. When the TX sends elevator/aileron inputs to the FBL gyro, it tries to tilt the swashplate accordingly, but the heli does not respond in the desired way, so it tries to tilt the swashplate even more. In a nutshell, when the heli is on the ground, cyclic inputs will be very much accentuated, and because of the "large" cyclic commands sent by the FBL gyro, the rotor blades may smash into the ground easily.

As the helicopter lifts off, it is likely to bank left. This is normal so don't apply right aileron trim. Just give it some right aileron input and it'll be fine in the air.

When the heli is in the air, focus on where it is drifting. Apply counter stick movement early. Too late and you'll be "chasing" the drift. Avoid large counter stick movements i.e. over correction. The analogy of balancing a ball on a flat piece of ball, is most appropriate to describe the behavior of the hovering heli. When you give cyclic inputs to keep the heli from drifting away, apply cyclic corrections a tiny bit at a time, and allow the cyclic stick to return to the center as soon as possible. It's almost like gently flicking the cyclic stick to the direction and allowing it to bounce back to the center.

Get yourself familiar with tail-in hover, then side-in hover, then nose-in hover, before attempting to fly it around. You may like to get a micro training skid for your V922 for a peace of mind.

When you apply elevator to send it forward, it will continue going forward unlike the V911. You need to plan ahead, react early. What I usually do is after applying forward elevator, I see the heli nose dips forward a little, I'll slowly pull back the elevator to level the heli. While the heli is level, it would continue moving forward but at a manageable pace. It would slow down and stop eventually. If you want to stop it from moving forward, pull back on the elevator and then level it by giving it forward elevator.

Watch the tilt / angle of the helicopter. Some prefer to watch the rotor "disc" while some find the landing gear / skids more accurate to tell where the heli is going to be heading. To more the heli tilts, the faster it will go towards that direction. You should try to keep the tilt minimal unless you're ready to fly it at a fast pace.

Slowly lower the throttle to 0% for a gentle landing. No thanks to ground effect, finding a nice spot to land by hovering slightly above the ground is not going to be easy. You may end up over correcting the heli and smashing the blades into the ground.


Hope that helps!

Thanks to FyreSG for the useful tips! Its what I've been doing since learning to fly CP helis. Have you tried inverted flights? Would like to know the exact steps involved for that using the v922 in normal mode.

unfortunately mine is still going to take a looong time to get here (easily in a year .), but as for the skids, I said this before in several other threads and I will say it again:
Airtime skids fit on ANY microheli (if you want that - just requires the most simplest mod imaginable: use your own skidpipes! [I used 2mm aluminum tube for my SP270 and 2mm CF rod for the mCPX ...])

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=243



(ooops - did not quote ... this is in reference to posts#29 and #30)

Help! My tail motor wire came off on its own. I realised the tail motor wires come in two parts. Two copper wires joining to the board and the other end to the motor wire.

How should I connect them? Red copper wire to white tail motor wire? If I do not have a solder, is there any other means?

I managed to do a quick repair of my loose tail motor wires. The tiny rubber tube that came with the wires did the trick. This episode made me lose a bit of confidence on the V922's build quality.

i cant imagine what part of the tail-wire came lose exactly? i´ve done some repairs on the tail wire, replacements of tail boom, tail motor - all of them needed soldering. but the design of the heli is well ellaborated and fits to the price ...

the hardest challenge has been the replacement of the tail-wire plug to the board, as this sparepart did not exist some months ago... i had to crimp the tiny wires to a 1mm jst-plug... but this is not a problem anymore because wl-toys delivers the pre-crimped tail-wire incl plug...
(http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Wl...2-p-60172.html)

macem

Originally Posted by FyreSG

At Idle-Up, the heli does not react as fast as I had expected when I moved the throttle stick up/down quickly. Perhaps it's due to the throttle curve for Idle-Up not set to 100-100-100-100-100? The lack of high head speed may hinder certain advanced 3D moves (not that it'll affect me anytime soon ).

I just found out that if the throttle trim is below 50%, the head speed on idle up will be reduced accordingly. There seems to be no difference if the trim is above 50%.

It is definitely possible that WL Toys choose to use flat throttle curve of less than 100% in order to prolong flight times. It will only be possible to check this out with a programmable transmitter.

I printed a blank TDR canopy template and added colors with a yellow highlighter and a red marker. It's my first draft so it appears a little rough.





I'm hoping someone could remove the "mTDR-CPX" label on the front of the canopy.

Originally Posted by FyreSG

I'm hoping someone could remove the "mTDR-CPX" label on the front of the canopy.

I wonder who could be

Nice Review! i'll get one from Banggood

Originally Posted by ddrmax69

Nice Review! i'll get one from Banggood

I just ordered one from MM, as I hope this will be faster:
http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/in...oducts_id=9938
(if you only order the rubber skid nuts for the feet as well (which will come in very handy if you want to fit a "better" (that is at least how it seems to me after reading Fyre's reviews) landing skid (ie Airtime):
http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/in...oducts_id=7041
(if you buy these two items, you get over 100$ and that means free shipping from MM)
I am very curious how long mine will take (USPS says "Accepted" in HK on Dec.27)

Oh, and btw, I dont have absolutely anything against (or any problem with) BG, but I think if there are alternatives, they should at least be known (its just that everything I get from BG usually takes about a month before I have it, and the stuff I got from MM fastest only took 4days ... and this time I am kinda impatient ...)

Now, you really didn't think I was going to just remove that label, didn't you?

Here you go:



It's just a different paint job, no shape modification (that's all I could do with a PDO file).

Nice one Darsh. But don't distract me. I am working on the other canopy right now.

Originally Posted by Daryoon

Nice one Darsh. But don't distract me. I am working on the other canopy right now.

Slacker stop fiddling with it and post it already

The screenshot looks great! Good choice on a Logo paint job. I haven't seen the PDF but the original PDO did not come with flaps. I had a hard time building the canopy because of that.