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Old Dec 26, 2012, 12:37 PM
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The Tail Pitch Bellcrank...

When I took the Tail Pitch Bellcrank Mount apart I noticed there was a small amount of bearing retainer holding the shoulder bearings in place... I've decided not to remove the shoulder bearings from the Tail Pitch Bellcrank, instead I will lubricate the bearings in place and move on with the assembly...

The Tail Pitch Bellcrank is fastened to the Tail Pitch Bellcrank Mount with two 0#4mmX80 Socket Button Head Screws, both of these screws pass through very small bearings before threading into the mount, this is one place you might want to use a toothpick to apply the threadlocker to the part instead of the fastener...

I also fastened the Link Ball to the Tail Pitch Bellcrank at this time, applying some threadlocker first... So far each part of the tail assembly moves very smoothly with absolutely no binding... I am very happy with my kit to this point...

A few photos...

Ken
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 01:34 PM
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The Slide Shaft and T Type Arm...

Next up is the pitch slider assembly, composed of the Slide Shaft, the Bearing Holder and two bearings and the T Type Arm, this is another assembly I'm going to leave as is, there seems to be threadlocker on the T Type Arm and threads of the Slide Shaft... I've already confirmed the Slide Shaft moves freely on the Tail Output Shaft...

I applied a small amount of threadlocker on the two T1.5X4mm Socket Button Head Screws, then starting with the bottom screw secured the Metal Bearing Holder to the Tail Pitch Bellcrank, the reason I started with the bottom one is when the assembly is on the bench the pitch lever and Link Ball make it unstable, it would help to have three hands sometimes...

A couple photos...

Ken
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 01:38 PM
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"News" Flash...

Just kidding... But, talking about "flash", there aren't too many plastic parts on the Align T-Rex 450 PRO DFC but there are a few, I always inspect plastic parts for "flash", bits of plastic left behind when the parts are cut or broken from the sprue after molding...

I always remove "flash" from plastic parts, if nothing else for asthetics, but also to prevent interference with moving parts, just remove the "flash" don't alter the shape of the part... A small bit of work with a file will clean it up easily...

A couple photos, before and after...

Ken
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:11 PM
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The Tail Pitch Control Links...

Next up are the two Tail Pitch Control Links, these parts are directional, pay attention to the drawings in the manual and you should not have a problem... Be very careful with threadlocker on the two screws that pass through the bronze bushings, blue threadlocker has strong wicking properties and will sieze up the parts and bushings if they are contaminated with it... Also threadlocker will destroy most plastics, keep it away from all plastic parts...

The method I use to apply the threadlocker to these screws is to start the screw into the part, then apply the threadlocker with a toothpick to the threads on the part, then finish tightening the screw... Try holding the part so the threadlocker doesn't flow towards the bushings when applying it...

A few photos of the assembly...

Ken

Note: these are the methods I use to assemble my kits, this build thread is not a substitute for the included manual, build your kit as you see fit...
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:13 PM
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The Metal Tail Rotor Holders and Tail Rotor Hub...

Just like my Align T-Rex 250 PRO DFC the screws securing the Metal Tail Rotor Holders to the Tail Rotor Hub already have threadlocker applied...

All that's necessary to complete this assembly is to apply some threadlocker to the Setscrew and secure the Tail Rotor Hub to the Tail Output Shaft...

Next, attach the Tail Pitch Control Links to the Metal Tail Rotor Holders using the two Phillips Head Shoulder Screws, these parts are directional, pay attention to the drawings in the manual... Again be careful when applying threadlocker to these screws and around the plastic parts...

A few photos...

Ken
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:15 PM
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The Tail Boom assembly...

The Tail Boom is going to come together fairly quickly now, all of the sub-assemblies are basically finished... I need to install the Torque Tube Bearing Holder on the Bearing, then secure the bearing to the Torque Tube with a small amount of CA... Next, I'll spray some silicone lubricant into the Tail Boom, apply some oil to the Torque Tube Bearing Holder and insert the Torque Tube assembly into the Tail Boom,..

I purchased a second Bearing and Torque Tube Bearing Holder just in case I decide to put a second bearing on the Torque Tube... The Align part number for the two parts is H45042T...

A couple photos, then on to the assembly...

Ken
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:18 PM
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The Tail Boom continued...

Prior to installing the Tail Boom Mount and Metal Tail Unit Set on the Tail Boom, I need to install all of the parts that are in or on the boom, such as the Torque Tube w/Bearing and Rudder Control Rod Guides, I also need to prepare the Ball Links for installation on the Rudder Control Rod...

Some builders have a hard time getting the Ball Links started on the linkage rods, one method I've found that works very well is to use my Dubro Body Reamer on the ends of the Ball Links, a couple twists while applying light pressure is all that's needed, the Ball Links then start easily on the linkage rods...

I secured the Bearing in the Torque Tube Bearing Holder using a small amount of CA, it's placed approximately 13mm off center on the Torque Tube, the Bearing is offset towards the front of the Tail Boom...

I've slipped the Rudder Control Rod Guides over the Tail Boom and the Rudder Control Rod through them, next I'm ready to install the Ball Links on the Rudder Control Rod and fasten the Metal Stabilizer Mount and the 3K CF Horizontal Stabilizer to the Tail Boom...

A few photos...

Ken
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:29 PM
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The Horizontal Stabilizer Mount...

Yes, a whole post for the Metal Stabilizer Mount, unlike my Align T-Rex 250 PRO DFC, the Metal Stabilizer Mount on my 450 is very tight on the tail boom, I have it on the boom very loose until it's in the final position so I don't scratch the finish on the Tail Boom... The mount doesn't appear to be bent or deformed in any way, it may be that Align addressed the issue of the mount slipping on the boom by decreasing the ID of the clamp portion... It will be a very secure fit once the two screws which secure the mount and hold the 3K CF Horizontal Stabilizer are tightened up...

A couple photos...

Ken
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:31 PM
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Coming together...

I backtracked just a little for the first photo, all of the parts are about to come together to complete the Tail Boom... Make sure the slot in the Tail Boom is to the front during assembly...

I started by aligning the slot in the Tail Boom with the mating "post" in the left hand side of the Tail Boom Mount and fully seated the Tail Boom into the Tail Boom Mount, I also made certain the fitting at the front of the Torque Tube was aligned and fully seated by turning and pushing forward on the fitting protruding from the rear of the Tail Boom, no fasteners are used at this time...

A couple photos...

Ken
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:32 PM
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Installing the Metal Tail Unit Set...

The key thing to remember when mounting the Metal Tail Unit Set on the Tail Boom is to align the two holes carefully, there is one in the Tail Boom and one in the Metal Tail Unit Set, there is a :"post" molded into the Horizontal Stabilzer Mount that fits into these holes and helps prevent the Metal Tail Unit Set from rotating on the Tail Boom...

I had to turn the tail rotor by hand to get the fitting at the front of the Torque Tube to align with the Long Umbrella Gear in the Metal Tail Unit Set, when it was aligned I was able to slide the Metal Tail Unit Set forward until it was fully seated on the Tail Boom, next I placed the Horizontal Stabilizer Mount and Horizontal Stabilizer into position and secured them with the two M2X18 Socket Head Cap Screws...

Unlike the T-Rex 250, both of the screws that fasten the Horizontal Stabilizer also provide clamping pressure on the Tail Boom, on the T-Rex 250 only one of the screws provides the clamping force...

A few photos, it's getting there...

Ken
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:39 PM
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The Main Gear...

On page 12 of the manual most of the components from the earlier steps start coming together with the main frame... On the bottom of page 12 there is a drawing showing the Main Gear assembly broken down in detail, I've skipped ahead to that section to show these parts in photographs and to make certain mine are assembled correctly... Once I've put the Main Gear assembly back together this helicopter is going to come together fairly quickly...

A few photos of the Main Gear and associated components and the re-assemly, then on to the final assembly of the airframe...

Ken
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:40 PM
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I gotta get me one of those...

No, seriously... I first used these on R/C cars a long time ago, I often wondered why they weren't popular with helicopter builders when I got into the hobby, I had never seen them used, at least not until FBL helicopters became mainstream...

I'm talking about turnbuckles, specifically for the servo to swashplate linkages, these are the best upgrade I've ever put on a helicopter and the only upgrade being installed in this build... They make setup easy and extremely accurate... Using a digital pitch gauge and the turnbuckles allows for very accurate leveling and centering of the swashplate... Another benefit is no more need to keep taking the ball links off the link balls to make adjustments, making the links sloppy over time...

Many companies make them, do a search, I recommend them for both flybar and FBL helicopters, they are worth the extra funds...

The other new item I found out I could not do without is a Digital Pitch Gauge, this is one of the best tools for helicopters I ever invested in... I purchased the Align AP800 Digital Pitch Gauge, it works like a charm, I am very satisfied with the purchase of this now indespensible tool...

I need to prepare my linkage rods before starting the actual assembly, this is step one on page 12 of the manual, with good reason, make sure you put the elevator linkage rod on prior to starting the assembly or you'll be backtracking to take things apart and do it... All three of the linkage rods on the Align T-Rex 450 PRO DFC are the same length; in the manual the length is given as "approximately 32.5mm" measured center to center, that's where I'll start...

A photo of the turnbuckles(left) and stock linkage rods(right), the assembled turnbuckle linkage rods and a photo of the Align AP800 Pitch Gauge...

Ken
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:47 PM
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The Final Countdown...

In the next couple steps all of the components are going to come together that comprise the Align T-Rex 450 PRO DFC airframe...

The first components to be installed into the main frame are the Rotor Head/Main Shaft assembly and the Main Gear, also at this time the Anti Rotation Bracket is installed...

In the manual it's pointed out that if necessary there are shims for placement on top of the upper Main Shaft Bearing Block, these shims are located in a bag labeled 450HZ15 and come in two different thicknesses; 0.1mm and 0.2mm... I have to install the Main Shaft and Main Gear in the frame to determine if any shims are necessary, so I will be installing everything dry (no threadlocker) this first time...

Before installing the Main Gear onto the Main Shaft it's necessary to place the One-Way Shaft Ring on the One-Way Bearing Shaft... One side of the Main Gear has a recess that holds the nut for the jesus bolt, put the nut in place now, it's a snug fit, it should stay in place...

Slip the Main Shaft through the upper and lower Metal Bearing Holders until the bottom of the shaft is just flush with the bottom of the lower bearing, next place the Main Gear into position within the frame and insert the Main Shaft completely through the One-Way Bearing Shaft... Align the hole in the Main Shaft with the holes in the Main Gear, put the screw through the holes and tighten until secured with the nut...

A couple photos...

Ken
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 04:58 PM
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Removing Excess Play in the Main Shaft...

Unlike my Align T-Rex 250 PRO DFC my 450 needs shimming above the upper Metal Bearing Holder, I will experiment with the different Washers (shims) to determine the correct thickness, it's apparent at one Washer (shim) will be needed to take up the play in the Main Gear... It's not bad, but it does need a shim or two, there is enough play I can show it in a photo... Align provides the parts to correct this with the kit, it's not a problem...

A photo...
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 05:15 PM
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The Excess Play Removed...

When I installed the Main Shaft and Rotor Head, I discovered I had excess play in the Main Shaft, in the manual it specifies to place the washers above the upper bearing block...

I've removed the Rotor Head and Main Shaft, I then used one 0.2mm washer to remove the excess play, it's a perfect fit, no play, and no resistance, just right...

A photo...

Ken
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