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It sounds like you've had it a while,and it may need a little maintenance.
Disassemble some things,and look for unusual marks.....gaskets leaking,bolts loose,and a piece of grass in the reed. I have a little primer bulb I carry in the field box,with a curved tube to prime the carb. Taxiing in grass can stir up a piece of dirt,and it'll wedge in the reed,often.... |
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Latest blog entry: Model Builder
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I think it is hardest when the engine is started for the first time of the day, especially if it is cold outside. The main trick is getting it primed to start. I normally, choke the engine flip it over a few times, then turn on the ignition, and flip it over until it catches and runs for a second or two and stops, then I un-choke it, and it usually fires up right away. I then let it warm up for a while, as at first it usually doesn't want to run much faster than a fast idle speed, until I can get it to go full throttle, and know it has warmed up OK. Then I can fly it.
Yeah it doesn't take too much to have the reeds not close properly, a little debris can make it harder to start. One thought is the little screen filter inside of the Walbro carb may have debris accumulating on it too. That can affect the engine in odd ways, not just full throttle too. I have had to pry the screen filter out and put in a new one. Whatever the debris is, it seems to get stuck good to that little screen. Another thought is the pump and regulator diaphragm may have gotten hard or stiff. or the diaphragm may have gotten soft and stretched out a lot and become, sort of, baggy and not working as well as it should. |
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Latest blog entry: My Low Wing plane
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Joined Nov 2012
152 Posts
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I ordered a Frank bowman ring and he sent me a long email with pics saying that most of these Chinese engine require the removal of the reed block and the surface finish is awful
Remove the reeds an sand flat with a piece of 320 or finer sandpaper taped to a sheet of glass If the reeds do not seal the result is hard starting because the reeds act as a one way valve for the air fuel charge Can't suck and blow at the same time !! I haven't tore my motors apart because my rings aren't here yet I have an rcgf 30 as well that needs help starting too The smaller the engine the more important that this becomes |
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Hardly, Chip.
With current CDI ignition systems, kick-back cannot happen. And there is no Dynatron or another Sullivan starter, that will spin-start big spark-ignition engines. The owners of these up-to-250 cc engine planes obviously have enough money to buy a starter, but all of them flip-start their engines. It is hardly a chore... |
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Quote:
My 3W 150CC is so easy to start it is almost scary. I use the same technich as the smaller gassers. Full choke and full throttle. When it kicks, low throttle open choke and shes off. I have never fliped more than 5-6 times even on a cold day. My DLE 30CC, Same way. Perhaps the OP and others having issues might check their tunning. A fine tuned engine, even a magneto, should flip start easly. |
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United States, MI, Waterford Township
Joined Aug 2008
520 Posts
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The "solder the hole closed" tip is advice I follow for sure. They need to be pretty rich to start easily. The other thing I see a lot of is the LS needle adjusted just a little lean? That'll make them a bear to start as well - especially in cooler weather!
None of my gas engines have ever had an electric starter used on them - ever. If I can't flip start it, it's not right.... |
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