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Old Jan 08, 2013, 08:03 PM
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United States, TN, Knoxville
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Thanks, Jim. Using some of that stuff would give me a mad scientist feeling. I think I like it.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 09:58 PM
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United States, FL, Melbourne
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Lamp

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Originally Posted by variantman View Post
MO, where's the best place to cut the wires to the old motor? It looks like it will be a pain fitting in soldered wires near the bottom with that cap.

I'm going to have to invest in a good Magnifying lamp. My eyes aren't what they used to be and my house lighting is terrible.
Articulated floor standing magnifier lamp: $35 Lowes.
Got one. Love it.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 01:39 AM
Darwin of quadcopter canopies
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Finland, Espoo
Joined Jun 2011
154 Posts
Coffee is the enemy of good soldering work.
I had a friend in school who was a caffeine addict, and one year we had our electronics classes at 15:00.
Poor guy probably spent more time poking the board than the point he was supposed to solder.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 07:00 AM
semper mitis
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Paducah, Kentucky
Joined Nov 2004
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In a different life I taught microsurgery. The most shaking was caused by too much and by to little caffeine. The brain was used to seeing a certain level. To maintain steady hands we recommended maintaining constant levels of caffeine intake.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 08:15 AM
Quad guys are 4x the fun :)
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United States, CO, Longmont
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One of the things I'm known for among family and friends is not leaving well enough alone...fixing something that's not broken as it were.

With that in mind I removed the LED's intent on replacing with NAV colors.
I'm here now to tell you this was not a good idea. After de-soldering the LED you're left with about 1/8" to 3/16" of 32 or 34 gauge magnet wire. With the motor mount and LED mount in place, soldering is possible but far less than ideal. The really strange thing though is that I was able to get two red's on port side working but then when I went with green on the front starboard side...nothing. I tried one of the weakest least demanding LED's I have and it barely lit up. Same result with rear starboard side. There's not enough juice and I can't figure out why. If anything there should've been a difference between the two red's on port side, back and front because that's obviously where the color difference happens with the stock LED's. There shouldn't be any difference between front left and right as far as resistance goes but there is.

I'm no electrical engineer mind you but this set up is odd to say the least.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 08:30 AM
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United States, FL, Melbourne
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BD, are you sure you got enough of the varnish off when you resoldered? Can you try plugging into the other auxilliary port on the RX board? Polarity on the LEDs correct?
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 08:52 AM
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MO, sorry to bug you but any word on those batteries yet? I plan on ordering the V202 today and I can order extra batteries at a later date but I would hate to place my V202 order this morning and see the new batteries on the site this afternoon, lol.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 09:05 AM
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Hey Urufu, do you mean the Turnigys or the stock 25C?

Speak of the Devil............Turnigys just arrived!
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Last edited by MassiveOverkill; Jan 09, 2013 at 09:15 AM.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 09:19 AM
Quad guys are 4x the fun :)
BD Murdock's Avatar
United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by MassiveOverkill View Post
BD, are you sure you got enough of the varnish off when you resoldered? Yep Can you try plugging into the other auxilliary port on the RX board? Could but haven't yet Polarity on the LEDs correct?Yes
After more thought I don't know if there are differeing resistance values for the stock blue & greens, my guess is there are but without de-wiring everything I can't tell if that's handled in the wiring, on the board, or both. I think there's X amount of juice allocated to the LED's, the two red's I soldered on came close to that amount, leaving only a tiny amount for the others. I'm experimenting now with different reds. You guys that know what you're doing with this stuff should be ROTFLYAO...I would be too.......reason being I don't own a voltage meter. Guess I'm off to Radio Shack lol. Checking with a meter should tell me everything I need to know.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 09:59 AM
Darwin of quadcopter canopies
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Finland, Espoo
Joined Jun 2011
154 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BD Murdock View Post
After more thought I don't know if there are differeing resistance values for the stock blue & greens, my guess is there are but without de-wiring everything I can't tell if that's handled in the wiring, on the board, or both. I think there's X amount of juice allocated to the LED's, the two red's I soldered on came close to that amount, leaving only a tiny amount for the others. I'm experimenting now with different reds. You guys that know what you're doing with this stuff should be ROTFLYAO...I would be too.......reason being I don't own a voltage meter. Guess I'm off to Radio Shack lol. Checking with a meter should tell me everything I need to know.
If you try to put different leds parallel to each other, sometimes one of them takes all the current and others don't light up at all. You pretty much always have to make sure that different leds are behind their own resistors.

Because the v202 normally has two same at front and two other at the back, chances are they are wired parallel like that.
So, switch both of the reds so that they are plugged to where the front leds were, and then the green ones to the back.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MassiveOverkill View Post
Hey Urufu, do you mean the Turnigys or the stock 25C?

Speak of the Devil............Turnigys just arrived!
Well, I meant the stock 25C but if the Turnigys work in the V202 then I'll grab one or two of those as well.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 10:09 AM
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United States, FL, Melbourne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_Edward View Post
If you try to put different leds parallel to each other, sometimes one of them takes all the current and others don't light up at all. You pretty much always have to make sure that different leds are behind their own resistors.

Because the v202 normally has two same at front and two other at the back, chances are they are wired parallel like that.
So, switch both of the reds so that they are plugged to where the front leds were, and then the green ones to the back.
They're all wired to the same power port by default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Urufu_Shinjiro View Post
Well, I meant the stock 25C but if the Turnigys work in the V202 then I'll grab one or two of those as well.
Turnigy's will work but you'll need to insert some foam strips in the batteryholder to take up the slack as they are thinner and longer than stock.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 11:07 AM
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Would it be a better idea to just go with the batteries it comes with until the spare 25C's are in and then order extras?
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 11:09 AM
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Paducah, Kentucky
Joined Nov 2004
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I used the corners of Styrofoam home delivery boxes from Outback ribs. Their barbecue sauce will allow the dog to find the quad in high grass.
I like the Nano-techsbecause you can shift the placement and lock them in with foam.
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Last edited by gentle ben; Jan 09, 2013 at 11:28 AM.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 11:28 AM
Sir Crashalot
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Joined Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BD Murdock View Post
One of the things I'm known for among family and friends is not leaving well enough alone...fixing something that's not broken as it were.

With that in mind I removed the LED's intent on replacing with NAV colors.
I'm here now to tell you this was not a good idea. After de-soldering the LED you're left with about 1/8" to 3/16" of 32 or 34 gauge magnet wire. With the motor mount and LED mount in place, soldering is possible but far less than ideal. The really strange thing though is that I was able to get two red's on port side working but then when I went with green on the front starboard side...nothing. I tried one of the weakest least demanding LED's I have and it barely lit up. Same result with rear starboard side. There's not enough juice and I can't figure out why. If anything there should've been a difference between the two red's on port side, back and front because that's obviously where the color difference happens with the stock LED's. There shouldn't be any difference between front left and right as far as resistance goes but there is.

I'm no electrical engineer mind you but this set up is odd to say the least.
Don't have an answer for the apparent voltage difference. But I think swapping one pair of booms diagonally would accomplish what you want, wouldn't it? (Assuming swapping booms is easier than soldering led's.)
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