Originally Posted by hogfish

set a neg value ? i set a pos value for the low point and neg for the high point[ on the pitch curve with a devo 7 tx .] is that common ? or can i set it neg some other way ?

in the pc program you set pitch to - number in Collective Pitch
like if you have a +80 change it to -80

Duplicate

Here's how you would do it using John_NZ's FBL software V1.16 - it's similar in the CX software.



Your method of inverting your pitch curve works, but it's easier to use the negative value of Collective Range in the software.

ok thanks 2doggs . . there is NO info about that in the manual at all . it just leaves a person guessing . actually there is no manual or instructions , had to get that from here . if you dont mind ,what do i need to access the pc program , usb cable ? by the way i did try to fly it and it just sort of bounced around on the ground . i tried adusting the gyro and gain travel with out much luck , im thinking from what ive read it could be aileron gain ?

To use pc programming, you need the USB adaptor, which can be had for just a few bucks. The Tarot one works too. The other way to program it is with the program box, though I find programming with the pc software to be much quicker. The program box is handy at the field, and doubles as a servo tester too.

It's hard to tell what might be going on with your heli on the ground - you can get cyclic shakes if the gain is too high, but the gain you can use will depend on what servos you're using. Analog servos will usually limit you to lower gain than the default, but some cheap digitals, such as Henge 933's work fine with the gain at 40. One test you might do is to fold the blades 90 degrees to the grips, and bump the collective. The blades should settle, but if the gain is too high they might start oscillating. You can reduce the gain to the point where they don't oscillate after a collective input.

Best thing to do is to start with preset model #1, and work your way up from there, and not immediately try to change too many parameters.

Good luck!

I did swap the 3X2000 on the other BA with the Fusonic servos. The irregular glitching seems to be not there anymore.. but the gyro seems to be a little quirky...its not that stable and the heli seems to be moving all around.. I place the CX3X1000 on the other BA the one with the 3X2000 originally.It had the analog cyclic servos but the 3X1000 seems to be at home with that heli.. same with the 3X900 the 1000 just plugged and played....

I took some short videos so as to check for the difference.. the 3X1000 seems to be running more stable.. and its more tamed....

I think there is still adjustments to be done on the 3X2000 just to get it fly nicely....

The first one is the 3X2000 the next flight was the 3X1000

Copter X 3X2000 compared to 3X10000 (0 min 0 sec)

ok ill have to get the adapter then . i spent all this time getting it installed . it might only need a few adjustments . it seems to be a pattern with the Chinese selling their products ,to only give the bare minimum of information ... i do have analog servos the t pro mg90s. [or at least i think their analog ,it doesn't say in their specs] . it would be nice to get it to work properly ,just so i dont have to mess with the fly bar after a crash nice drive way soneebee :], it makes a great heli pad . it looks like p.i ?

Originally Posted by soneebee

I did swap the 3X2000 on the other BA with the Fusonic servos. The irregular glitching seems to be not there anymore.. but the gyro seems to be a little quirky...its not that stable and the heli seems to be moving all around.. I place the CX3X1000 on the other BA the one with the 3X2000 originally.It had the analog cyclic servos but the 3X1000 seems to be at home with that heli.. same with the 3X900 the 1000 just plugged and played....

I took some short videos so as to check for the difference.. the 3X1000 seems to be running more stable.. and its more tamed....

I think there is still adjustments to be done on the 3X2000 just to get it fly nicely....

The first one is the 3X2000 the next flight was the 3X1000
http://youtu.be/GtfKxfJtRvA

It looks like very low gain to me. Like a no bar heli.

What about the pots? Have you tried increasing them to see if they have any effect.

I did try to make changes on the PID settings.. but did not move the pots on the gyro yet...

after tuning the PID settings.. the heli had better control.. but ended up on a crashed heli.. heheheh one of the servos burned down.. and the heli was locked to FF. it hit the wall and ended to heli heaven.....

Originally Posted by beenflying

It looks like very low gain to me. Like a no bar heli.

What about the pots? Have you tried increasing them to see if they have any effect.

Soneebee...the 3x1000 looks way more stable. It's like CopterX took a step back..

i took my 250 with the 2000 out today in some light wind and it flew amazing! i thought it was very stable, made me feel very comfortable on the cyclic, my only complaint was a very slow drift of the tail to the left, so i had to fly with a little right trim, thats not a huge deal though, i just need to bump the trim on the gyro over a bit. is it possible for a drift to be to slow for the gyro to notice? it seems to me that the gyro should cancel all movement other than the operator's change to the tail, weird huh? any ideas on this?

Could you increase the tail gain a bit more to see if the drift stops.

I had similar issue using the 3x1000.

One of two things fixed it
1. Before i fly i toggle gro gain switch several times to force the gyro to re-initialise. I always end toggle with switch in rate mode and then change to HH after initialisation.

2. I added 5 point of Coll>Tail and Cycl>Tail to stop tail swings on pitch pumps. I these settings fixed slow drift for some unexplained reason. No science here but maybe regular tail inputs caused by Col or Cycl help gyro lock to heading.

One of the above methods worked for me. I tried the typical fixes like increasing gain (both global , P and I, inreasing RC deadband on rudder/tail, mechanical setup etc but nothing stopped very slow drift unitl i tried one of the above ( probably point 2).

Worth a try

what do you mean by coll> tail and cycl>? do you mean on the gyro's tail gain settings? or the trim of the tail/cyclic?

You can try screwing the push rod on the tail servo instead of trim .It would probably work better .