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Old Dec 17, 2012, 01:38 AM
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United States, NC, Smithfield
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Build Log
Redwing RC 30cc MXSR

Hello everyone my name is Nick Dalessandro (Nicky) I have teamed up with Redwing RC to do a build log on the 30cc mxsr. First off if you guys have any questions about the plane, or suggestions for the build please feel free to chime in at anytime. Im here to help anyone in anyway possible, also if you see interest in purchasing a plane from Redwing RC send me a pm maybe we can get you a good deal on that new air frame. Over the next few weeks i will be going over the complete build, once finished i will be providing a flight video. For those of you who dont know Tim at Redwing RC has been great to deal with, excellent customer service as well as providing awesome planes at a great price. I know this plane has been done before but i wanted to show my own twist to the build.

(This build is also being done on flying giants, i wanted to post on rcgroups for those who dont follow FG forums.)

Lets get started

Redwing 30cc MXSR
wing span 76"
Length spinner to tail 70"
wing area 1100 sq. in.
weight 10.75-11.25
Ultracote covering

My equipment
DLE 30cc
Jtec Pitts muffler
6)Hitec HS5685MH
2) 2s 2200 lipo batteries 1 for ignition 1 for servos will be unregulated since im using hv servos
Smart fly ignition regulator
Vess 19A prop my favorite choice for the dle 30
4titude 8oz gas tank

To the unpacking:
First off not one thing was damaged, everything was boxed up neatly. Unpacking the plane is always exciting to me. Unpacking this one was even better, the covering is nice and tight i didnt have a single wrinkle. All the glue joints look great, I was really impressed when i looked down the wing and seen the carbon sleeve for the wing tube and how much epoxy was around it. Other planes i have built in the past seem to have slacked out on this area using hardly no glue and either very thin fiberglass sleeve. This is rock solid. All the fiberglass pieces come color matched, carbon fiber landing gear. Even in the hardware then send you carbon fiber control arms. Thats always a plus! All the hardware is bagged in individual bags for each item, nice rubber wheels not some cheap foam ones. Also a color matched carbon fiber spinner is included as well. Plane comes pre mounted gas tank but i have decided to go with the 4titude gas tank, using this tank in the past it has become a favorite to me and is in all my planes. Over all very please with this air frame so far, It makes the build easier when working with quality
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Last edited by Nicky2times; Dec 17, 2012 at 01:55 AM.
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 07:49 PM
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winston mo
Joined Oct 2006
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The carbon fiber wing tube looks like a big plus.
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 12:27 AM
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United States, NC, Smithfield
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Yes sir! big plus for me seeing as i have had other top company planes wing tube fail on me. I am very confident with this plane the quality is superb
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 12:44 AM
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Gluing hinges and control horns

Got some work done tonight, started off by gluing the hinges in the control surfaces. I like to use gorilla glue for doing this, epoxy to me seems to become brittle and weak over time. I started by applying some petroleum jelly to the hinge point. Next after i have coated all the hinges, i use a qtip to apply a small amount water to dampen the holes drilled in the control surfaces. Then i apply some gorilla glue directly into the hole i personally like to use a good amount of glue. Yes it will expand but usually the holes are drilled deep enough to where it expands back into the control surface. I also use a qtip to apply a light coat of glue to the hinge its self, then sliding the hinge into place. Make sure the hinge is lined up so the movement of the hinge is with the direction of the control surface. Now some glue the hinge into one side and let it dry before gluing the 2 sides together, i dont. I go ahead and glue both sides this way i can set my gap between the two surfaces to roughly 1/16". Then i use blue painters tape to hold the pieces together since the gorilla glue expands i dont want it to push the hinge out. I make sure i have proper throw so i only tape one side to set my throw then i tape the other side. Once dried you will notice some glue has expanded outside the hinge, simply enough i use an xacto knife to pick any off this usually pops it right off the covering around the hinge.

Gluing the control horns, this is pretty easy since they already have the horns ready to go with the ball link attached as needed already. Now you will have to trim the horn i like to have 2 holes showing once iv cut it down, as noted in pic. Rudder and elevator both have slots pre cut all you have to do is cut the coverings around it so the control horn can slide in it. Now on the wing you will notice there are 3 slots, the reason for this is due to 2 diff servo locations for the wing. I have chose to use the servo hatch location for the cleaner look, with this location you will use the 2 outside slots on the aileron. Next sand the end of the horn that will be glued into place. On this i like to use epoxy, its a little easier to work with. I apply thin coats to each side of the horn also i like to apply some to the control surface, a little extra glue never hurt. For clean up i use some rubbing alcohol and a qtip to go around the edge to get rid of any unwanted glue.
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 02:16 AM
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winston mo
Joined Oct 2006
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I like the carbon fiber wing tube sleeve as well. The cardboard sleeve seems to wear out so quick.
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 11:44 PM
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United States, NC, Smithfield
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Wing servo installation

Got a chance to get some more done on the mxsr. After getting all my control surfaces and control horns installed it time to put the servos in the wings. There are 2 locations for the servos on this plane. One is the traditional style where the servo sits in the wing, and the other uses a hatch hiding the servo in the wing. I will be using the hatch location, this gives a cleaner look and also i like how the servo arm is in line with the push rod. This also prevents binding and a more natural movement. The hatch is located in the hardware bag, I like to take my iron and go over it before i cut away the covering needed. You will notice the servo arm slot as well as 4 holes below it, cut these out. Next run the iron over the wing hatch location and cut around the edges after cutting seal up the edge of the covering around the hole. Also in the hardware bag there will be 4 L aluminum brackets, with 16 black machine screws and washers. These L brackets are screwed to the hatch to provide a mount for the servo. I really like this, its a lot better than other kits that use a block of wood to mount the servo to. On all my machine screws i use blue locktite to prevent the screw from vibrating loose. Starting off by mounting the L brackets to the hatch, once complete the next thing i did was attach the provided carbon fiber servo arms to one of my circle servo arms that came with my servos. Most servos stock arms will have holes that line up with the carbon ones, with mine what i had to do was drill 4 new holes using a 5/64 drill bid keeping the carbon arm centered on my stock arm. They also provided you with the nuts and bolts to mount these arms. Next I plugged my servo in so i can have it centered with power to it. Then attached my arm to the servo, after the arm is in the proper location i bolted the servo into place on the L brackets. Now on my servos i did not use the rubber grommets, all i used was the screw wit no washer because of the way the servo is made the washer would not fit. The cap head on the screw was big enough to now worry with a washer. Now to feed the wire into the wing, i first attached a 6" extension to the servo wire also using a safety clip to keep with wires from pulling out. Then feed the wire into the wing, the holes in the wing give you enough room to get the wires in there with no problem. Once you set the hatch in there are 4 tiny holes in the corners, I poke the hole with my knife. Using the 4 wood screws that are in the bag with the L brackets screw these into the corners. I like to pull them back out and put a few drops of thin CA to harden the threads made in the wood. Now your servo hatch is complete.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 12:38 PM
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winston mo
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Looking good
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 04:13 PM
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United States, NC, Smithfield
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Thanks, this build has been fun for me. Hopefully over the weekend I can get some more work done. Let me know if you have any questions. While going over this build Im trying to go step by step so know one will be lost. I want first time builders on this plane to know exactly what to do. This being the reason for the large amount of text.
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 10:53 PM
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sorry guys i have not had a chance to get much done, i want to wish everyone a safe and merry Christmas!
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 11:11 PM
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elevator install

Hope everyone had a good Christmas. Finally got a chance to work on the plane some more. Next thing to do was install the elevators. Started off by cutting out the covering on the fuse for the holes needed to install the elevators as well as cut out the servo holes. Once the holes are cut i sealed up the edges with my iron. I went ahead and attached the pull pull cables into the control arms so they would be out of the way. Everything is pretty much done all you have to do is crimp the piece of tubing onto the cables, and thread the ball link in. I do this by pulling the wire tight to my liking and crimping it with some pliers, dab a drop of CA on the ends. The other side will be attached later when the rudder servo is installed. Then install the servos in the fuse. When putting these in make sure the servo gear is pointed to the back of the plane, this is required for the push rods to work. I went ahead and attached my extensions with safety clips, inside the fuse there are holes in the formers for the wire to be run in. So may run both wires in one hole I used both holes provided to run a wire in each this way i know which servo is which. After that slide the carbon elevator tube through the fuse and slide each elevator half into the tube. When you cut the holes out you will notice the blind nuts to bolt the elevator to have already been installed. Simpily using the provided screws and washers add some loctite and secure the halves to the fuse. Next is to install the push rods. This is a turnbuckle style rod so one end is right hand thread the other is left hand. Screw the ball link ends on a few turns each side, now once you bolt them to the control horn and the servo arm all you have to do is turn the rod to adjust. Also once again you will have to attach the provided carbon fiber servo arm to your stock servo arm, as done before.
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 12:06 AM
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United States, NC, Smithfield
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main gear and tail wheel

Hope everyone had a happy new year.

Mounted the main gear, using the provided stainless cap screws and the nylon nuts attach the main gear to the fuse. You will notice the carbon gear is airfoiled and also the trailing edge tapers so make sure you have this mounted the the straight side forward. You will notice in the fuse they use aluminum L brackets to stiffen up the mounting block to the fuse. Next thing is to mount the axle to the gear. Simply thread the axle into the gear then tighten down the provided nylon nut. They provide you with 2 wheel collars for each wheel. I mounted the first one about 1/4" off the gear slipped the wheel on then put the next collar on making sure the wheel spins freely. When mounting the wheel pants you will have to install the blind nuts, i did this by holding them on the back of the pant and using the screw to pull the nut into the wood. Next thing to do is install the wheel pant to the gear using some loctite on the screws.

Tail wheel bracket is installed by first screwing on the bushing to the carbon tail wheel gear. Then sliding in the tail axle into the bushing. Now the cap that holds the axle in has a set screw that to secure this onto the axle, the axle has a flat spot this is where the set screw should line up to prevent the axle from spinning. The rod that extends to the rudder is also held in by a set screw in this cap. slide through the small hole in the cap and using the screw to secure it in place. In the bag there is a small rod that has another hole in it. By drilling a 7/32 hole into the center of the rudder, on the rod there is splines on the end that gets glued in. I used gorilla glue for this. Now to screw the gear to the fuse i used the provided wood screws. There is a plywood mounting plate on the rear of the fuse, I set my gear flush with the front of this plate and drilled some pilot holes down the center where the gear holes are. Hit these with a few drops of ca then screwed it down, make sure you slide the rod into the rudder before screwing it in place. For those who want to use a screw and add blind nuts can do so by cutting out the hatch on the rear of the fuse. Its located on the left side you will need to cut it from the covering, this is used to access the rear mounting plate from inside the plane. Now thats done all is left is to mount the tail wheel and the wheel collar. Gear is done.
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 01:54 AM
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winston mo
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She's almost done?
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 02:32 PM
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United States, NC, Smithfield
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Getting there man I can't wait, too bad it's starting to get chilly here in NC, hope soon I get this done and can get some flights in.
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 09:51 AM
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winston mo
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What are your temps? are you in the northern part?
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