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Old Dec 15, 2012, 09:28 AM
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Blackhorse Glasair 120

I have one of these on the way. There doesn't seem to be much posted about it here or on RCU so I decided to start this thread. I bought it as a replacement for my beloved ASM Pitts that I totalled last weekend after 3 1/2 yrs of regular flying. I had about 45hrs flying on it. I was going to buy another but It appears to have been discontinued. Blackhorse do one very similar which I considered but decided to go for the glasair instead. I'll probably get the BH Pitts later.

Good price on the Glasair from here http://www.brigitte-ritter.de/xtcomm...-120-ARTF.html

The website is in German but Google Chrome browser will translate it

I bought it from the same vendor on ebay.de before I realised he had his own website. It cost 16 more on Ebay, even at that still a fair bit cheaper than elsewhere. The Kit is 240 here in Ireland not incl shipping
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 04:29 PM
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The Instruction manual is available online:
http://www.blackhorsemodel.com.vn/pr...l-Glasair8.pdf
The Model comes with led wingtip lights. Im not really a fan of putting lights on models as they cant really be seen in the daylight. The manual doesnt seem to say how to power the leds or what voltage they need. They could be powered by the receiver battery but resistors would have to be used. leds I've used before had voltages of between 2 and 3 volts.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 05:52 PM
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Started build today, just attached the flaps and ailerons. The hinges are the papery surface type that soak up cyano.The manual instructs that they all be glued with cyano, however some were already glued to the control surface while others were not and a few more were glued but not sufficiently and came out with a little pull. The flaps are about 11/2 times longer than the ailerons. You have to be careful with the spacing between the end of the flap or aileron and wing. If its too large there wont be enough room for the other flap or aileron.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 05:56 PM
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Just some food for thought later on, http://www.rcguys.com/pitts.htm
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 06:05 PM
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Looks good, a bit on the expensive side for me though. I try to keep the cost of my airframes around €200 to €300. Not as painful if you lose them!
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Old Dec 30, 2012, 06:16 PM
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Installed the Aileron and Flap servos and pushrods. The servos are installed in the wing hatch covers which were taped to the wing with clear adhesive tape. This was difficult to remove and left a residue which I removed with white spirit.

The servo arm slots in the hatches are huge, 60mm x 13mm at the widest point. I filled them with balsa sheet and cut smaller slots.I left on the film covering the slots while filling them and ironed it onto the new piece of balsa before cutting the new slot. I dont know why they made them so big.

The front and rear edges of the hatches protrude a little above the surface of the wing, about 1/2 - 1 mm. Not a big deal but would be nicer if they were flush. You could peel back the film and round them off with sandpaper if you wanted.

I needed to use 30mm servo arms for the flaps and ailerons in order to have a sufficient length outside the slot. The pushrods are unusual, 2.5mm with a 3mm thread at both ends,70mm for flaps and 60mm for ailerons, although the manual lets you figure this out for yourself! The clevises are steel and good quality.The control horns are made up of 40mm x 3mm screws which pass through plastic holders inserted into holes top and bottom of the flaps and ailerons.
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 06:42 PM
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If you were to follow the instruction manual you would do the engine installation next Like most instruction manuals with these ARTFs, this one is to be read but not taken too seriously. Its poor enough, but I suppose I've seen worse.A good instruction manual should enable someone who never put a model together before to successfully do so unaided.

I did the tailplane assembly tonight. The tailplane fitted the fuselage well without any gaps. I made sure it was centred and drew the lines for the covering removal.I put a new blade in my scalpel and made the cuts in the covering. I checked the wingtip distances and made sure the Tail was parallel with the wing before mixing and applying the 30 min epoxy. A last check of the wingtip distances before the epoxy starts to set.
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 05:41 PM
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The fin was a bit more difficult because it did not fit properly on one side. I spent about an hour sanding the stabiliser seat area slowly until it sat properly on the stabiliser. There was also some balsa left on the base of the fin, as if it had been temporarily glued to a jig of some sort at the factory.A little sanding removed it.It was hard to check the Fin for squareness with the stabiliser using a set square as the fin is wider at the bottom and tapers slightly towards the top. I relied more on distance measurements from the fin to each end of stabiliser to ensure squareness.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 06:47 PM
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Like the ailerons and flaps, some of the hinges on the elevators were not glued sufficiently.The control horns for the rudder and elevators are the same as for the ailerons and flaps. A nut is included to be used as a locknut to prevent the plastic part turning on the bolt which is not really effective so I didnt use them on the rudder and elevators. The part threads onto the bolt and cant really turn with the clevise attached but I used a few drops of cyano on it anyway.

The servo tray is 2mm ply and its fairly soft ply. Servo screws will tap into it easily without any predrilling. A little pressure in the middle and it flexes a fair bit so I reinforced it with 4mm square balsa. I had to change an elevator servo position as I am using a single channel for both elevators and for the recommended set up 2 channels are required unless you want to reposition a pushrod which would be difficult as they are enclosed in snakes glued into the fuselage formers. There was still adequate clearance from the rudder servo which goes in the middle position.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 07:14 PM
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The elevator pushrods and closed loop for the rudder are preinstalled. I just had to fit clevises and locknuts to both ends of the pushrods, the clevises were already fitted to the close loop cable. The two lengths of cable just had to be adjusted and secured. The elevator snakes enclose the pushrods right to the exit point at the tail. The film just has to be removed to allow the pushrod to exit. I was expecting the knife to go straight through and thought that the exit hole was not properly cut out until I realised the snake is actually glued to the inside of the fuselage side at the exit point preventing the knife from going straight through.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 05:32 PM
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I fitted the tailwheel assembly using the 2 x 12mm self tappers provided. I replaced the wheel with one I had as I mentioned before the one included is poor. The model has the tailwheel fairing that can be seen on the fullsize. I found this a bit odd looking at first and wasn't sure if I would fit it but it has grown on me. The tailwheel was hitting the fairing at max rudder deflection so I cut about 5mm off the end.The self tappers provided to secure the fairing are a bit big so I used smaller headed 2mm ones.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 06:16 PM
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The two undercarriage halves are handed. They can be identified left and right by trial fitting them in the fuselage slots. If the wrong side is fitted the wheel alignment is off.

Axles are included for the main undercarriage which are better than plain bolts which are often used in kits and can be tricky to fit especially when wheel spats are involved. The 4mm axles are one piece with 7.5mm bolts on the end. 7.5mm is probably overkill, but better a bit big than too small .The axles are supplied assembled with a ply spacer to go inside the spat and washer and nut to secure the axle to the u/c. Also supplied are 2 collets for each axle although only one has a collet screw! pennies being saved here! Ok, the collet inside the wheel doesn't really need a screw but you would always use one anyway. I had my own screws which I used on the deprived collets.

I initially fitted the axles by drilling a hole in the spat as per the instructions but found I could not get the wheel with axle assembly into the spat unless I removed the inside collet. It would have worked ok like this, the wheel was spinning up fine except that it wasn't centred in the spat. I then had the idea to form a slot in the spat from the axle hole which made assembly alot easier and the inside collet could be used. The only consideration with the slot in the spat is that if the axle nut ever became loose I would probably lose the spat. I used a little contact adhesive between the spat and undercarriage to safeguard against this possibility.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 06:17 PM
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4mm steel bolts x 4 are supplied to attach the undercarriage to the fuselage. I always use 6mm nylon bolts to attach undercarriages so that they dont rip the fuselage apart in a heavy landing. I removed the 4mm captive nuts and replaced them with 6mm. The captive nuts had a hard glue holding them in. I'm not sure what type of glue, possibly some sort of hot glue. I melted it off with a soldering iron, partially screwed in a 4mm bolt from underneath and tapped it with a hammer to dislodge the captive nut.

Having a bit of hassle getting the missing undercarrage fairings. Andys hobby shop http://www.brigitte-ritter.de/ wanted me to contact ripmax uk for the parts.When I asked why he wouldnt contact them he said he cant get parts from ripmax uk, only complete kits.He said I would have to return the whole kit to him and he would replace it with another! I persisted and the latest is that he is going to try to get the parts from ripmax.
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 08:32 AM
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On to the engine installation. The firewall and engine box seem well constructed. The firewall is supported mainly by 2 x 3mm ply doublers on each side into which the firewall is slot joined.These doublers run back about 8 inches and are slot joined to the first fuselage former and joined to the second former with triangular balsa. I still did some reinforcing as I am installing a gasser, crrc gf26. I used fibreglass bandage with 30 min epoxy to reinforce the firewall to ply doubler joints, sanding the grey paint off beforehand.

The Instructions state that the propellor backplate should be 145mm from the firewall. My engine is the first version needing standoffs. Beam mounts are of course much more convenient, you dont need extra long bolts and standoffs. I used 5mm x 90mm socket head screws and had 30mm and 15mm standoffs which I used and have finished up with a distance of 141mm from the firewall which should be Ok. I used 25mm washers 1.5mm thick behind the standoffs and 2 behind each nyloc nut to prevent both sinking into the ply while tightening.
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