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Old Dec 13, 2012, 11:46 PM
DJI Support
Las Vegas/Lake Tahoe
Joined Feb 2010
9,431 Posts
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Naza H Build Thread - Set up Explained

I wasn't going to do this but I see a need that is not being met with the current Naza H threads here and other forums. I will start out saying that I am an amateur heli pilot. I did not start out in my teens, rather in my 50's. I currently own a 550 and a 500. I sold my 700. It cost way too much to fix even with the slightest tail touch. It is now an A/P 800 for a friend of mine. I cruise and don't do 3D. I will leave the comments and set up for 3D to others. That is why I have a WKH, it fits my flying style. However, the Naza H can fit the requirements of both. I took a never ever flier and set him up with a Naza M with GPS. He flew fine and will eventually move beyond GPS and ATTI. I think the Naza H will do that for novice heli pilots. The hurdle will be the build. If you have a RTF heli, 450 and above and are just changing out the FC then you should be fine. If you are a first time builder and flier, find an experienced mentor for the basics. Most will not have a clue about the Naza H. Don't be deterred. When I started out in RC Planes, I had an old timer totally mess up my pretuned from the factory engine. It never worked the same since. Times change and so does technology.

I got my Naza H about a week ago and the weather has been crappy. I decided to start the build even if I could not fly at the moment. The platform is my Trex 550E FBL. I had my WKH mounted on this heli and it flew well. I was going to put it on a Trex 500E FBL but right now it is 400 miles from me so the 550 is it.

First impressions of the Naza H components. The case is the same size as the Naza M but in a smoke plastic. This may be a result of barometers sensitivity to light that has been reported in the Naza M and caused some issues with altitude hold. The GPS unit is smaller than the WKH as is the Naza M is smaller than the WKM. The LED/USB connector is very similar to Naza M. I found the connection between the unit and the USB cable to be very tight on my unit. It may loosen with use. I really like the BEC. Solid machined case with switchable output from 5V to 7.4V 15A peak output. I will be putting this on when I switch out the Align esc for the Jive 80+ LV that I have for this heli. Right now I am using a CC BEC set at 6V with 20A peak which I was using with the WKH.

Since the Naza H does not have the IMU sensor block of the WKH the mounting on the 550 will be a piece of cake. I will put it in the same spot that the WKH MC occupied. For my receiver I am using a JR R921 with satellite and my Tx is a JR9503.

I have been critical of DJI for not having a proper manual for the Naza H. After setting one up on the Assistant, I will soften my opinion somewhat. The set up is very step by step and includes some good explanations as to what you are doing and why. As with any heli set up you have to have your mechanical set up correctly. I learned from Finless Bob over on HeliFreak. He has some great videos that I still reference. If the mechanics are bad, the electronics no matter how good they are cannot guarantee a great out come.

What will you need to set this up. A swash plate leveling tool, a pitch gage, some zip ties, a PC with the drivers and Assistant installed. I am not going to go through the installation of the drivers and Assistant. I will note that some people have had issues with Windows 8 and the driver. Do a search here to find the posts. I will eventually add to this page with links to quick fixes to issues. DJI has already posted some of the best videos that I have seen from them in support of this product. Mine will be better. Not, but I am a user and I have had the same issues that most others will have.

Here is the installation video that DJI did for the components:

DJI Naza-H Setup Demo (7 min 0 sec)


DJI mounts the MC on the bottom plate. I am not a big fan of that on the Trex 550. I have done that with an SK720 on my Trex 500 but there are too many other options on the 550 for that. I prefer the plate above the tail boom mount that contains the gears to the shaft drive. The 500, I do agree with their choice. I have seen the GPS mounted on the horizontal stabilizer. I am not doing that. One it can induce vibrations and two it is very close to the tail rotor another source of vibration. I have mine mounted on the supplied tail boom mount. I put some 3M outdoor double stick tape on the underside of the curved portion of the mount then wrench it down with zip ties. Use two small ties rather that one longer tie. They lie flatter on the top of the mount. Remember you are sticking the GPS/Compass on top of it. The flatter the better. Even with that, I had to us the taller 3M double stick rather than the supplied DJI thin double stick. I could not get good adhesion with the supplied tape. The black tape lines that you see on a sheet are to help you set up the alignment of the GPS. The front is where the can bus lead comes out. You will see an arrow and a notch on the front and back that show the center line of the GPS. Put one of the stickers on the GPS and align it with the center of the tail boom. That is all you need to do with the GPS. Make sure it is 20cm from any motor or servo. You don't want any interference.

I did use the supplied double stick tape for the IMU. DJI FC's like to be hard mounted. Forget what you learned about vibration isolation. The IMU has it built in. If you mount it on a gel pad or velcro you will confuse the IMU. Hard is the best. Note that the Naza H is not for Nitro or Turbo Helis. The internal dampening is good but not that good right now. Remember times change.

The video shows the LED mounted on the side of the heli. I have mine mounted on the small lip that is present between the rear LG and the bottom plate. There is enough material that some of the 3M tape can grip the LED and the frame. Have you noticed that I really like the 3M tape. You are right. I don't think that I have a copter without it.

Now that the components are set, I would take some measurements. On a single rotor heli the Main Shaft is the center of the X and Y axis. You need to measure the distance from the Main Shaft to the center of the IMU and the GPS. The next measurement you need to make is to determine the COG. Which means the Z axis in relationship to the X and Y axis. What I do is to hang the copter with lipo, blades extended front to back, from the tail shaft in a door frame. I use a metal hanger to do this. With the heli hanging down, draw a line from the tail shaft straight down. Where it intersects the Main Shaft is the COG. There is a picture attached. Note that and take the measurements from the COG to the middle of the MC and the GPS. In DJI logic above the COG is green and negative, below the COG is red and positive. Don't ask me to explain the standard, it is what it is. Learn to live with it.

You will need to set up a new model in your Tx on Heli, 1 servo normal and bind to the Rx. My Tx is a JR 9503. Any quality 7 channel radio will work with the Naza. I helps to have the ability to save failsafe in the Rx. AR7010 and above with satellite receivers are capable of preset failsafe as are others. I use them on my smaller quads. On the lager MR's I use AR8000 and A921. Here I am using a A921. I don't fly 3D so I am setting this up the way I would recommend a beginner to set it up. N, ST1 and ST2 are all set the same to avoid confusion and an accidental switch move. For my Throttle Curve I am at 0-Inh-80-80-80-80-80. Stabilizing flight controllers need some headroom to control altitude and attitude. The pitch curve is -4. +5.5, +8. This is per DJI recommendations. I normally set sum expo in the Aileron and Elevator channels. I am not going to do this, at least until I do the Auto Trim Test flight. Then I might add about 20-30%. I have added 30% expo to Aileron, Elevator and Rudder.

Now to set up the Naza H in the Assistant. Here is DJI's video again.

DJI Naza-H Assistant Software Configuration (15 min 22 sec)


Here are the areas that I had to stop my video and figure what they were asking me to do. One, if you are used to the M series of the DJI controllers you are used to clicking on "write" before you move to the next tab. The Naza H Assistant does that for you. There are a few times that you are required to press "enter" to write a value but they are few and far between and a prompt appears in the lower right hand corner to remind you. Contorl Mode Setting. I think that they meant Control Mode Setting. I use Aux 2 in my Tx. What you want to do first is to place the switch in the center position. Check the U slider. The "A" should be highlighted in Blue. If not move the sub trim for the Aux 2 channel to where it does.. Then flip the switch to the end positions, Manual and GPS. Adjust the end points in your Tx so that the slider is highlighted Blue.

Next do the Tx calibration. Press start and move the sticks to the end of their travel. Note that when you move the Th up the slider moves right. When you move the Elevator up the slider moves right, down moves the slider left. The Rudder and the Aileron stick movements should mirror the slider movements, right is right, left is left. If you do not see these movements reverse the channels in your Tx. Once done press finish.

Next is the IMU mounting. Remember the measurements that I had you make this is where you enter the measurement in CM from the main shaft to the center of the IMU. Remember Green is Negative, Red is Positive. If you click on advanced you can enter your Y and Z settings from GOG. For most heli installations the Y will be "0"

Next is the Rotor direction and Rotor type, FB or FBL. If you are having problems with this put your heli up for sale.

Next is Swash Plate Type. Choose your swash type. My Trex 550E is HR3. In the advanced tab you can adjust the rotation. Refer to your heli's build guide for instructions on adjusting the degrees of swash rotation. I have never seen more that a few degrees. I did not do this step in my set up, nor did I do it with my WKH set up. It flew well. If you are more anal than I am, go for it. You will also set the type of servos for digital or analog. How many of your are still using Analog? My guess is not many.

Next is to set the individual servo direction. You will be moving the Pitch/Throttle stick up and down. Check that the head is moving accordingly. If not reverse the Pitch in Assistant. Check the Aileron and Elevator sticks as well if they are not correct, reverse the direction.

The next section you will need your swash leveling tool and the pitch gage. Take the head off and put the leveling tool on the main shaft. Move the sliders until you have the swash level with all arms touching the tool. The set the blades to "0" degrees pitch.

If you have a Fly Bar skip this section.

Here is where you will also need a pitch gage. I wish I had the fancy digital gage that DJI has. I don't I have a gage similar to the one shown in the graphic. Now adjust your pitch between 6-8 degrees depending on the size of your heli. The first step is to have "0" pitch when you have the Th at 50% when centered over the tail boom and the Normal indicator is showing "Normal". if not I adjust the linkages on the swash. DJI says you can use the trim as well. Remember what I said about having the mechanical as close as possible. Here is a case to adjust the mechanical first and then the trims. When you the blades at "0" then press measure and adjust the pitch to the desired degree using the slider.

The next thing is to find out what frequency your tail servo operates at. Check your specs online. Mine is digital, 1520us(333Hz), an Align DS650. Next use the sliders to set the limits. Move the slider until you meet resistance then set the other side. This is a case where you can enter a digital value then press enter to fine tune. That is what I did because it is difficult to make fine adjustments with the slider.

The next section is the Feedback settings. I was lost with the pictures, but now I have it. In picture 1, pitch of your blades should go positive, negtive,center.
P2,Swashplate should tilt forward, backward, center
P3,Swashplate roll to left, right, center,
P4, Heading should pan to left, right, center by judging tail blades movement.

If all that is correct press "Finish". You will get a pop up to advise you to check the gain settings in the Common Parameters, mine is set a default now. Set your gyro gain, mine is set to default now. Calibrate your Compass and use Auto Trim for the Autopilot system to fine tune the mechanical. Remember what I said about a solid mechanical set up. Make it right mechanically and don't overwork the electronics.

Press OK.

On the Common Tab, I am using default for all the settings right now. I am not using the battery monitor. I will probably set it up later and adjust this post to reflect that. I like the timer in my Tx for the most part. I also have a lipo alarm that I plug into the balance plug.

How to and when to calibrate the compass and what is magnetic declination?

How to enter calibration mode. I switch the mode switch 10 times then wait for the led to change. When I say 10 times I mean Manual to ATTI to GPS and back to Manual is one time. Do this 10 times then wait. The LED should turn yellow. Then rotate the copter horizontally around the main shaft. When the horizontal calibration is complete the LED will turn Green. Flip the copter with the nose pointed down and rotate around the tail boom until the LED flashes to signal the calibration is done. When do I do this? I would do it outdoors away from any magnetic or electronic interference. Take the cell phone out of your pocket when you do this and be away from electric transmission towers. Do it before you fly for the first time. Do it when you change locations. Do it when you change components on your copter. What is magnetic declination? The degrees of magnetic declination varies depending on where you are located on the globe called Earth. You can check yours by googling the term. If your copter has TBE, toilet bowl effect, the copter moves in circles while in GPS hold try rotating your GPS to match your declination. I am in Las Vegas and my declination is 11 degrees rotated to the right. Some of my multis are more susceptible to TBE than others. I have 2 of the 5 that I have made adjustments to. The other 3 are pointing straight forward. Fly and then decide for yourself.

"My Video Goes Here"

I hope this helps those that are thinking about owning a Naza H and those that are having issues in setting theirs up. This is a place that I envision everyone can get the answers they need. This is an awesome community that helps its own.
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Last edited by Tahoe Ed; Dec 22, 2012 at 09:54 PM.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 08:11 PM
DJI Support
Las Vegas/Lake Tahoe
Joined Feb 2010
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Throttle curve, Pitch curve and Z axis Calibration added.
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Old Dec 19, 2012, 01:32 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tahoe Ed View Post
I wasn't going to do this but I see a need that is not being met with the current Naza H threads here and other forums. I will start out saying that I am an amateur heli pilot. I did not start out in my teens, rather in my 50's. I currently own a 550 and a 500. I sold my 700. It cost way too much to fix even with the slightest tail touch. It is now an A/P 800 for a friend of mine. I cruise and don't do 3D. I will leave the comments and set up for 3D to others. That is why I have a WKH, it fits my flying style. However, the Naza H can fit the requirements of both. I took a never ever flier and set him up with a Naza M with GPS. He flew fine and will eventually move beyond GPS and ATTI. I think the Naza H will do that for novice heli pilots. The hurdle will be the build. If you have a RTF heli, 450 and above and are just changing out the FC then you should be fine. If you are a first time builder and flier, find an experienced mentor for the basics. Most will not have a clue about the Naza H. Don't be deterred. When I started out in RC Planes, I had an old timer totally mess up my pretuned from the factory engine. It never worked the same since. Times change and so does technology.

I got my Naza H about a week ago and the weather has been crappy. I decided to start the build even if I could not fly at the moment. The platform is my Trex 550E FBL. I had my WKH mounted on this heli and it flew well. I was going to put it on a Trex 500E FBL but right now it is 400 miles from me so the 550 is it.

First impressions of the Naza H components. The case is the same size as the Naza M but in a smoke plastic. This may be a result of barometers sensitivity to light that has been reported in the Naza M and caused some issues with altitude hold. The GPS unit is smaller than the WKH as is the Naza M is smaller than the WKM. The LED/USB connector is very similar to Naza M. I found the connection between the unit and the USB cable to be very tight on my unit. It may loosen with use. I really like the BEC. Solid machined case with switchable output from 5V to 7.4V 15A peak output. I will be putting this on when I switch out the Align esc for the Jive 80+ LV that I have for this heli. Right now I am using a CC BEC set at 6V with 20A peak which I was using with the WKH.

Since the Naza H does not have the IMU sensor block of the WKH the mounting on the 550 will be a piece of cake. I will put it in the same spot that the WKH MC occupied. For my receiver I am using a JR R921 with satellite and my Tx is a JR9503.

I have been critical of DJI for not having a proper manual for the Naza H. After setting one up on the Assistant, I will soften my opinion somewhat. The set up is very step by step and includes some good explanations as to what you are doing and why. As with any heli set up you have to have your mechanical set up correctly. I learned from Finless Bob over on HeliFreak. He has some great videos that I still reference. If the mechanics are bad, the electronics no matter how good they are cannot guarantee a great out come.

What will you need to set this up. A swash plate leveling tool, a pitch gage, some zip ties, a PC with the drivers and Assistant installed. I am not going to go through the installation of the drivers and Assistant. I will note that some people have had issues with Windows 8 and the driver. Do a search here to find the posts. I will eventually add to this page with links to quick fixes to issues. DJI has already posted some of the best videos that I have seen from them in support of this product. Mine will be better. Not, but I am a user and I have had the same issues that most others will have.

Here is the installation video that DJI did for the components:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9Ajb...layer_embedded

DJI mounts the MC on the bottom plate. I am not a big fan of that on the Trex 550. I have done that with an SK720 on my Trex 500 but there are too many other options on the 550 for that. I prefer the plate above the tail boom mount that contains the gears to the shaft drive. The 500, I do agree with their choice. I have seen the GPS mounted on the horizontal stabilizer. I am not doing that. One it can induce vibrations and two it is very close to the tail rotor another source of vibration. I have mine mounted on the supplied tail boom mount. I put some 3M outdoor double stick tape on the underside of the curved portion of the mount then wrench it down with zip ties. Use two small ties rather that one longer tie. They lie flatter on the top of the mount. Remember you are sticking the GPS/Compass on top of it. The flatter the better. Even with that, I had to us the taller 3M double stick rather than the supplied DJI thin double stick. I could not get good adhesion with the supplied tape. The black tape lines that you see on a sheet are to help you set up the alignment of the GPS. The front is where the can bus lead comes out. You will see an arrow and a notch on the front and back that show the center line of the GPS. Put one of the stickers on the GPS and align it with the center of the tail boom. That is all you need to do with the GPS. Make sure it is 20cm from any motor or servo. You don't want any interference.

I did use the supplied double stick tape for the IMU. DJI FC's like to be hard mounted. Forget what you learned about vibration isolation. The IMU has it built in. If you mount it on a gel pad or velcro you will confuse the IMU. Hard is the best. Note that the Naza H is not for Nitro or Turbo Helis. The internal dampening is good but not that good right now. Remember times change.

The video shows the LED mounted on the side of the heli. I have mine mounted on the small lip that is present between the rear LG and the bottom plate. There is enough material that some of the 3M tape can grip the LED and the frame. Have you noticed that I really like the 3M tape. You are right. I don't think that I have a copter without it.

Now that the components are set, I would take some measurements. On a single rotor heli the Main Shaft is the center of the X and Y axis. You need to measure the distance from the Main Shaft to the center of the IMU and the GPS. The next measurement you need to make is to determine the COG. Which means the Z axis in relationship to the X and Y axis. What I do is to hang the copter with lipo, blades extended front to back, from the tail shaft in a door frame. I use a metal hanger to do this. With the heli hanging down, draw a line from the tail shaft straight down. Where it intersects the Main Shaft is the COG. There is a picture attached. Note that and take the measurements from the COG to the middle of the MC and the GPS. In DJI logic above the COG is green and negative, below the COG is red and positive. Don't ask me to explain the standard, it is what it is. Learn to live with it.

You will need to set up a new model in your Tx on Heli, 1 servo normal and bind to the Rx. My Tx is a JR 9503. Any quality 7 channel radio will work with the Naza. I helps to have the ability to save failsafe in the Rx. AR7010 and above with satellite receivers are capable of preset failsafe as are others. I use them on my smaller quads. On the lager MR's I use AR8000 and A921. Here I am using a A921. I don't fly 3D so I am setting this up the way I would recommend a beginner to set it up. N, ST1 and ST2 are all set the same to avoid confusion and an accidental switch move. For my Throttle Curve I am at 0-Inh-80-80-80-80-80. Stabilizing flight controllers need some headroom to control altitude and attitude. The pitch curve is -4. +5.5, +8. This is per DJI recommendations. I normally set sum expo in the Aileron and Elevator channels. I am not going to do this, at least until I do the Auto Trim Test flight. Then I might add about 20-30%.

Now to set up the Naza H in the Assistant. Here is DJI's video again.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_N9KJ...layer_embedded

Here are the areas that I had to stop my video and figure what they were asking me to do. One, if you are used to the M series of the DJI controllers you are used to clicking on "write" before you move to the next tab. The Naza H Assistant does that for you. There are a few times that you are required to press "enter" to write a value but they are few and far between and a prompt appears in the lower right hand corner to remind you. Contorl Mode Setting. I think that they meant Control Mode Setting. I use Aux 2 in my Tx. What you want to do first is to place the switch in the center position. Check the U slider. The "A" should be highlighted in Blue. If not move the sub trim for the Aux 2 channel to where it does.. Then flip the switch to the end positions, Manual and GPS. Adjust the end points in your Tx so that the slider is highlighted Blue.

Next do the Tx calibration. Press start and move the sticks to the end of their travel. Note that when you move the Th up the slider moves right. When you move the Elevator up the slider moves right, down moves the slider left. The Rudder and the Aileron stick movements should mirror the slider movements, right is right, left is left. If you do not see these movements reverse the channels in your Tx. Once done press finish.

Next is the IMU mounting. Remember the measurements that I had you make this is where you enter the measurement in CM from the main shaft to the center of the IMU. Remember Green is Negative, Red is Positive. If you click on advanced you can enter your Y and Z settings from GOG. For most heli installations the Y will be "0"

Next is the Rotor direction and Rotor type, FB or FBL. If you are having problems with this put your heli up for sale.

Next is Swash Plate Type. Choose your swash type. My Trex 550E is HR3. In the advanced tab you can adjust the rotation. Refer to your heli's build guide for instructions on adjusting the degrees of swash rotation. I have never seen more that a few degrees. I did not do this step in my set up, nor did I do it with my WKH set up. It flew well. If you are more anal than I am, go for it. You will also set the type of servos for digital or analog. How many of your are still using Analog? My guess is not many.

Next is to set the individual servo direction. You will be moving the Pitch/Throttle stick up and down. Check that the head is moving accordingly. If not reverse the Pitch in Assistant. Check the Aileron and Elevator sticks as well if they are not correct, reverse the direction.

The next section you will need your swash leveling tool and the pitch gage. Take the head off and put the leveling tool on the main shaft. Move the sliders until you have the swash level with all arms touching the tool. The set the blades to "0" degrees pitch.

If you have a Fly Bar skip this section.

Here is where you will also need a pitch gage. I wish I had the fancy digital gage that DJI has. I don't I have a gage similar to the one shown in the graphic. Now adjust your pitch between 6-8 degrees depending on the size of your heli. The first step is to have "0" pitch when you have the Th at 50% when centered over the tail boom and the Normal indicator is showing "Normal". if not I adjust the linkages on the swash. DJI says you can use the trim as well. Remember what I said about having the mechanical as close as possible. Here is a case to adjust the mechanical first and then the trims. When you the blades at "0" then press measure and adjust the pitch to the desired degree using the slider.

The next thing is to find out what frequency your tail servo operates at. Check your specs online. Mine is digital, 1520us(333Hz), an Align DS650. Next use the sliders to set the limits. Move the slider until you meet resistance then set the other side. This is a case where you can enter a digital value then press enter to fine tune. That is what I did because it is difficult to make fine adjustments with the slider.

The next section is the Feedback settings. I was lost with the pictures, but now I have it. In picture 1, pitch of your blades should go positive, negtive,center.
P2,Swashplate should tilt forward, backward, center
P3,Swashplate roll to left, right, center,
P4, Heading should pan to left, right, center by judging tail blades movement.

If all that is correct press "Finish". You will get a pop up to advise you to check the gain settings in the Common Parameters, mine is set a default now. Set your gyro gain, mine is set to default now. Calibrate your Compass and use Auto Trim for the Autopilot system to fine tune the mechanical. Remember what I said about a solid mechanical set up. Make it right mechanically and don't overwork the electronics.

Press OK.

On the Common Tab, I am using default for all the settings right now. I am not using the battery monitor. I will probably set it up later and adjust this post to reflect that. I like the timer in my Tx for the most part. I also have a lipo alarm that I plug into the balance plug.

How to and when to calibrate the compass and what is magnetic declination?

How to enter calibration mode. I switch the mode switch 10 times then wait for the led to change. When I say 10 times I mean Manual to ATTI to GPS and back to Manual is one time. Do this 10 times then wait. The LED should turn yellow. Then rotate the copter horizontally around the main shaft. When the horizontal calibration is complete the LED will turn Green. Flip the copter with the nose pointed down and rotate around the tail boom until the LED flashes to signal the calibration is done. When do I do this? I would do it outdoors away from any magnetic or electronic interference. Take the cell phone out of your pocket when you do this and be away from electric transmission towers. Do it before you fly for the first time. Do it when you change locations. Do it when you change components on your copter. What is magnetic declination? The degrees of magnetic declination varies depending on where you are located on the globe called Earth. You can check yours by googling the term. If your copter has TBE, toilet bowl effect, the copter moves in circles while in GPS hold try rotating your GPS to match your declination. I am in Las Vegas and my declination is 11 degrees rotated to the right. Some of my multis are more susceptible to TBE than others. I have 2 of the 5 that I have made adjustments to. The other 3 are pointing straight forward. Fly and then decide for yourself.

"My Video Goes Here"

I hope this helps those that are thinking about owning a Naza H and those that are having issues in setting theirs up. This is a place that I envision everyone can get the answers they need. This is an awesome community that helps its own.
good job, ED
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 09:44 PM
DJI Support
Las Vegas/Lake Tahoe
Joined Feb 2010
9,431 Posts
Went out for the first test flight today. I will say I had some help. Alan Szabo Jr and his dad were at the field today. Alan Jr was kind enough to make sure I had everything set up correctly and flew the first flight. I didn't. Throttle was reversed. Looked ok in Assistant but the esc would not arm. A few adjustments to the tail gain, HH at 40 and Rate at 58. I also added 30% expo on Aileron, Elevator and Rudder. I am still getting a 6" tail kick that oscillates about once a second. I haven't figured how to get that one out yet. More to come.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 08:48 AM
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Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tahoe Ed View Post
Went out for the first test flight today. I will say I had some help. Alan Szabo Jr and his dad were at the field today. Alan Jr was kind enough to make sure I had everything set up correctly and flew the first flight. I didn't. Throttle was reversed. Looked ok in Assistant but the esc would not arm. A few adjustments to the tail gain, HH at 40 and Rate at 58. I also added 30% expo on Aileron, Elevator and Rudder. I am still getting a 6" tail kick that oscillates about once a second. I haven't figured how to get that one out yet. More to come.
check the tail pitch slider. I've had a similar, rhythmic tail kick in hover before that didn't make any sense because my tail gains were fine.

In my case it was mechanical and the pitch slider was binding just a tiny bit right at mid shaft. It was due to the tiny screws in the tail pitch arms having a little Loctite in the brass bushing.
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 09:43 PM
DJI Support
Las Vegas/Lake Tahoe
Joined Feb 2010
9,431 Posts
I did some more testing. The servo horn on the DS650 had 4 holes. The ball was in the third hole and I moved it to the second hole. The recommended gains in HH is 40% in Assistant. Every TX is different so it does not make a difference what is in your Tx as long as Assistant is showing 40%. That was the equivalent of 50 in my Tx, a JR9503. I also rechecked the endpoints to make sure that there was no binding. Now just waiting for this storm front to move through so I can go out and test. I am going to balance the main blades while I wait.
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 01:56 PM
Registered User
United States, TX, Houston
Joined Apr 2009
121 Posts
Hi Ed,

Happy New Year! I have a question for you. Can you use the Naza-H to phase a 3-bladed head? Thanks.

Richard
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 10:09 PM
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ann arbor, mi
Joined Nov 2009
23 Posts
what do people have their gains set at for flybarless? did anyone change it from the default?
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 03:55 AM
Italian flyer
Italy
Joined Mar 2008
26 Posts
Hello Guys
I'm pondering if to give a tray to NAZA H..but still have a concern or doubt of its Fail-safe function (and the subject is not trivial) . Here it is and hope to be enough clear:
The doubt: reading NAZA H datasets/manual/DJY web site etc couldn't find anywhere how this product fail-safe function should exactly work when activated by the radio signal lost (BTW is that the only scenario when FS should switch ON by itself?? no mention either), No description what each channel setting/signal will be activated by MC unit and if it'll overlap any of my RX units fail-safe setting (which is to go in auto rotation attitude for example) .
As opposed I found in this forum, and other as well, your direct test/fly findings eg that depending on which fly mode switch position is when the radio signal goes off then you have 2 if not 3 different FS scenario to be activated.

In fact this doubt arose when looking at DJI video on Assistant SW Config where it explains how to set up on CH7 the 3 values corresponding to the 3 Switch position for Manual, Atti. & GPS Atti modes.. ( I gues it is -77-0- 77) but that then (minute 5 about) it continues with a fourth value setting for FS mode ( guess was 44) which immediately appeared to give me 2 issues: A) how can I set the 4th value in my MPX RoyalEvo TX because I dont have that FS menu in my (TX (shall I conclude that Naza H is only for FUT/JR/HT tx??? as drawn in the little manual 2) and more important: how/when do you engage that 44 FS value if when you loose radio signal can only be in switch mode 1, 2 or 3 (and getting 273 different FS attitudes)????
But even for those who own that TX radio of the video, what sort FS attitude the model will take when you pass to the hely RX CH7 the 44 value.??? ... What sort of miracle will NAZA H do for your Hely..does it take it to the Heaven ??
Peter
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 08:32 AM
DJI Support
Las Vegas/Lake Tahoe
Joined Feb 2010
9,431 Posts
Peter, the values for your three position switch depends on your RC Tx. The first thing that you need to do is to put the switch in the center position and adjust the sub trim to get the slider highlighted in blue. Then you adjust your endpoints to highlight Manual and GPS in blue. As far as failsafe, the Naza H is designed to hover in place when signal is lost.
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 03:45 AM
Italian flyer
Italy
Joined Mar 2008
26 Posts
[QUOTE= As far as failsafe, the Naza H is designed to hover in place when signal is lost.[/QUOTE]
Is that your assumption? I couldn't find it stated anywhere...and in fact people are reporting different behaviors depending in which position the Mode Switch is left when radio signal goes away....

I don't have any problem to set the 3 Mode switch values in my TX... it is the forth value that I can't because I don't have failsafe menu in my TX... As said so far have red of people reporting about the 3 different FS behaviors but none is saying anything about the forth (in the video they set it to 44 value I guess) . Pls go at about minute 5 of the video and tell me what you did.. if you don't have that radio model. If you have it did you activate that FS 4th behavior and what happened?
Peter
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 05:10 AM
Italian flyer
Italy
Joined Mar 2008
26 Posts
OK I think I found the answers by myself... It is clear now that NAZA H is a sort of WKH revised (downsized) product version with dropped functionalists.. and for that reason it could not fulfill some expectation you may have with NAZA H...

On WKH manual I found the following:
A) at pag 12: 1 The transmitter you used must be Fail-Safe featured, which allows you to setup fixed outputs for all channels if the
receiver loses signals, otherwise WKH will not enable the Fail-Safe.
so my MPX RoyalEvo is not good for NAZA H...... Bad marketing ..they should have made it clear in NAZA H datasheet/manual. too .
B) pag 22 WKH has a FAILSAFE functionality (good one it seams ) that y can customized in the Assistant SW.. and it will certainly override or bypass the one you can eventually set in the RX unit itself when binding the TX .. But NAZA H doesn't have it (at least at the moment). Now it is all clear and how it doesn't work even if in the setup video they assume it will ... again bad support... I cannot buy WKH to know how NAZA H is not going to work

LAST comment.. this is then clear and explains why people are reporting different FS behaviors when testing Radio signal OFF.. NAZA H owner be careful and use your RX FS setting instead because NANZ H doesn't have it (hopefully in a close future... ) and in case I'm going to buy it I need to find a trick in my TX to get the 4th FS channel value setting .. maybe creating a mixer.. mmmm

hope it helps a bit.....Peter
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Last edited by pp32789; Jan 11, 2013 at 10:10 AM.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 01:53 AM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2012
275 Posts
Great write up ED,

Say, I would love to talk to you about a few things, can you pm me your number?

Thanks Neighbor
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 09:47 AM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2012
2 Posts
NAZA H Setup help

Hi, i just setup my Trex 600 FBL and did everything on the assistant said...followed the videos also. ...i did already the manual mode flight and calibrated the auto trim... everything is going smoothly. then i decided to out and calibrate the gps...i went fine without any problem...then now after doing that i power cycled again the heli and tried to fly it.. first on manual mode...everything is fine all steady and tail holding amazingly great ...then now i i went up like 8 meters or so and switched to atti. mode then suddendly the heli went straight down...i managed to switched back to manual mode a couple of feet down but it went really fast luckily i softened the decent and it just bounced a couple of times and touched slightly the tail blades. then after reading again the manbual and the software instructions i lowered the vertical gain value to 65% since i only setup my heli to 11 degree pitch....after that i tried it again....i went like 10 meters high just in case then switched again to atti. mode and now it shoots up suddenly.

any idea why is this happening? i am pretty nervous now on doing anything until i get some answer why is this happening. all you suggestion will be greatly apprec iated.

thank you!
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 07:54 PM
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United States, CA, Marin County
Joined Apr 2009
805 Posts
Has anyone used the Naza-H with a DX6i? I'm not having any luck setting up the Naza-H on my Trex 600 ESP with an AR6200 Rx.

There are so many little things that are not responding correctly that I don't know where to begin. I can't help but wonder if I there is some simple setting getting in my way, or if the DX6i simply isn't compatible with the Naza.

It is also worth nothing that I am using Futaba S3040 servos on the cyclic and a Futaba S9254 servo on the tail.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.
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