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Old Jan 31, 2013, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by melsailsnorth View Post
Having transferred all the same equipment to my Flip FPV, I was out today on a trek just a tad under a mile and as soon as I turned my quad around at that distance, my RSSI went from 40ish to 0 and my Naza went into failsafe RTH and the trip was aborted. Same thing happened last week with my 450, but I was thinking it was some high power lines between me and my quad. now I'm thinking something has to be interfering with my EZ UHF on the quad, as I was flying in a huge barren field with nothing around me... Can anyone see any likely candidates for trouble? I'm attaching a picture, but basically I'm using the Flip frame, Sunnysky Motors, EZ UHF for control with a diversity 8 channel RX and two Sanders style monopole antennas, Naza w/GPS, immersion 5.8 vtx with SPW antenna, 600tvl OSD camera, TBS Core OSD. Everything is getting dialed-in nicely but I'm used to quite a bit more range with my LRS then this...
Try get rid of your second camera (at the top), it's on the way and creates extra interference, just use gopro for FPV.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by JPV FPV View Post
Went out today after work with one goal: test newly installed Naza GPS RTH. It worked flawlessly. Had another 2 batteries at the ready even though it was not optimal conditions for fun flying, really gusty. Well, it turned out to be the most death defying, hypothermic flight I've had to date.

You guys should really check this out if you want a laugh

http://youtu.be/vyuu53zbnCw


Which leads me to the obvious question:

How are you guys with OSD determining when its time to come home?

I was using voltage, but when under load the reading isnt accurate. Thought about using mAh consumed but that seems like it would change as the battery life degrades after several flights.
nice vid! it's called experience, I know exactly when time to go home and land, I feel my quad, the way it reacts, also by using OSD timer, I don't actually need any OSD voltage and Mah reading anymore.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by man1024 View Post
Try get rid of your second camera (at the top), it's on the way and creates extra interference, just use gopro for FPV.
I would recommend against using the gopro as the flight camera. The barrel distortion is severe and makes depth perception quite difficult. i.e. you wont see those tree branches unit its too late! Also, quality is strangly below that of most flight cameras and has poor exposure times.

my opinion.
Matt
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by JPV FPV View Post
How are you guys with OSD determining when its time to come home?

I was using voltage, but when under load the reading isnt accurate. Thought about using mAh consumed but that seems like it would change as the battery life degrades after several flights.
I developed my method over many test flights and charge cycles. I use a Tiny 3 OSD and I calibrated the current sensor first. Then I make a timed flight and make note of the readings in the air. When I land I log the total mah used on the battery and after a few minutes check the resting voltage with one of those little lipo checkers. Later when I get home I charge it up back to full and compare the charger total mah back in vs what my current sensor told me I took out. Adjust OSD formulas until I get within 100mah difference and call it good. My voltage reading during flight and resting are within .2 volts, so I just fly till my OSD says 14.0 - 14.2 volts and land. I keep a running timer on my Tx and it beeps at 7 minutes. For my 4s 2200 45C packs I land within 30 seconds of that timer and it is nearly always 14.1 v. My 4s 3000 20C pack can go for an additional 3 mins.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 10:45 AM
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Mel: very interesting that it was your FPV camera that created the interference, food for thought. I still like my new FPV cam (600TVL SONY SUPER HAD) vs the Gopro. I'd have problems with the sun and shade with the GoPro, especially as the Winter sun became lower in the sky. The Sony is much better at handing the sun and shade of trees, and does it faster.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 06:31 PM
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I appreciate the advice fellas. I've now set my capacity alarm on the OSD conservatively.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 06:44 PM
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Another FPV cam data point...

I'm using this camera for FPV:

http://www.securitycamera2000.com/pr...-Lens-OSD.html

I was expecting superb performance into the sun, which it has. What I wasn't expecting was the incredible job it does in low light. I will warn you, the bracket is crappy plastic. I made my own out of metal. Very pleased.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JPV FPV View Post
Another FPV cam data point...
I'm using this camera for FPV:
http://www.securitycamera2000.com/pr...-Lens-OSD.html
.
Hey JP, awesome job on the video!! Looked like a blast! Were you flying Manual for most of that? I just ask because it seems difficult to get that kinda speed going while in stabilize mode. I've been practicing line of sight flying in manual and getting set to try flying it with the goggles in that mode which I will try this weekend. I'm hoping I don't end-up putting the strength of this frame to the test, lol....
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 08:48 PM
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stick time under the goggles is the only way to get good with a quad. I can attest to that. Ive flown fixed wing fpv for a few years and the quad was quite humbling. But now Im getting more comfortable and can zip around stuff down low.

My first instinct was to climb to clear obstacles LOL. Took me a few sessions to get over that.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 09:55 PM
Preserve our right to FPV !!!!
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Originally Posted by webdr View Post
stick time under the goggles is the only way to get good with a quad. I can attest to that. Ive flown fixed wing fpv for a few years and the quad was quite humbling. But now Im getting more comfortable and can zip around stuff down low.
.
I'm with you on that!! I've got really comfortable with fixed-wing FPV and I think it made for an easy transition flying fpv with a quad in stabilized mode but flying manual under the goggles looks like it's going to be a humbling experience to say the least. With he quality of some of the videos I see you guys putting-out, though, I think it's definitely worth the stick time!!
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 12:10 AM
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Omfg I'm having the worst luck building this frame. I have everything together minus the props and I just found out a solder on my esc isn't good and that esc won't come on. I can't unscrew the bottom plate bolts because there easily stripped out. So now I have a frame together and can't get my board out. This is just not my day.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by melsailsnorth View Post
Hey JP, awesome job on the video!! Looked like a blast! Were you flying Manual for most of that? I just ask because it seems difficult to get that kinda speed going while in stabilize mode. I've been practicing line of sight flying in manual and getting set to try flying it with the goggles in that mode which I will try this weekend. I'm hoping I don't end-up putting the strength of this frame to the test, lol....
Thank you. Aurora is still recovering. She's exhibiting some weird yaw behavior after getting her wet. For the high speed run I was in attitude mode. I think I top out at 39-40 mph on a calm day. I just had a big breeze at my back at that particular moment. I'm practicing more and more in manual, but still not comfortable flying low without that safety net...yet.

I know what you mean. When flying LOS you can see the subtle changes in pitch that are sometimes tough to see during FPV, especially at altitude. I've been practicing flips, rolls, and dive bombs a lot lately. Just go really high at first and get lower as you gain confidence. When I get disoriented or panic I just click back over to attitude and she corrects herself quickly. (as seen in the video) The Flip FPV rolls and flips perfectly on each axis with zero coupling. Good luck!
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by flohio117 View Post
Omfg I'm having the worst luck building this frame. I have everything together minus the props and I just found out a solder on my esc isn't good and that esc won't come on. I can't unscrew the bottom plate bolts because there easily stripped out. So now I have a frame together and can't get my board out. This is just not my day.
Sounds like you need to tap out the stripped screws and fix that solder joint. Next time use a quality hex driver and go slow. And use the blue (removable) thread fastener formula.

This hobby can be frustrating at times but it is so worth it if you stick with it. Sometimes you need to put things down and do something else for a few days, then come back with a fresh perspective.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 01:23 PM
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easiest way to get the screw out is to take a dremel with a thin cutoff wheel and make a notch in the head of the screw, that way you can turn it with a flathead screwdriver
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 02:09 PM
Preserve our right to FPV !!!!
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Originally Posted by webdr View Post
easiest way to get the screw out is to take a dremel with a thin cutoff wheel and make a notch in the head of the screw, that way you can turn it with a flathead screwdriver
Man, why didn't I think of that. This man's been at this a while, lol.... good advice all around! I agree, though. I stripped a couple of mine with a cheap hex driver. Worth it (in the end) to pick-up a quality tool with a snug fit (advice I just took )
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