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Old Dec 17, 2012, 10:22 PM
I'd FPV it.
Ho-Jazz's Avatar
United States, GA, Winder
Joined Nov 2009
2,870 Posts
Subbed. Drooling over this nice quad. This will be my next build...
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 10:29 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
18,490 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by vic20owner View Post
You will... your frame actually shipped last week.. this morning I shipped your G10 scraps.
Oh, okay, thanks Tom. I thought you had worked some magic, 'cause I received the tracking info this morning then got the frame tonight. I was pretty impressed...Florida to Nevada in one day!!!

FWIW...my Flip FPV is all framed up...took less than 30 minutes...+/- a few. Very nicely done...I'm impressed. Instead of mounting the arms to the bottom plate, I installed the spacers on the bottom plate and the arms against the top plate. Why? Why not! Okay, there is a real reason. I'm thinking of using 1.25" spacers between the frame plates so I can slide in/mount the battery between the plates for support and protection. Mounting the arms on the top plate would lower the bottom plate closer to the actual height of the snap-on legs. Perhaps having the arms on the top plate and the camera mounted on the bottom plate may (or may not) help reduce vibrations to the camera....maybe.

Anyway, you dun great Tom. I was even pleasently surprised to see you included longer screws to mount the motors to the thick arms and spare screws and spacers just in case their needed. Nice touch.

I'll need to disassemble the frame to mount my F/C, power distro plate, etc. No biggy though...only takes minutes to put this thing together. Now I can't wait to fly it!!!
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 10:57 PM
LOAD "FLIP-FPV",8,1
vic20owner's Avatar
Joined Sep 2006
3,943 Posts
Here's a video of me flying the prototype... sorry my version of iMovie would only upload it at 640 and I dont have all night to convert it... but DJI motors and esc, 8" props (too small and chipped and warped from junk pile), Naza at stock settings no tuning, gopro has dirt inside it from last crash tests and is mounted with a single rubber band ... so this is probably a worst case scenario.

This frame has no anti-vibration stuff, and it is very stiff, so you should record at 720p@60fps if possible. All gopro's should be able to do this and thats what the frame is really designed around. I'm hearing the open pilot crowd having trouble with tuning it. So everything appears normal at this point (kidding).

Testing FLIP FPV Prototype (5 min 14 sec)
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 11:03 PM
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USA, TX, The Colony
Joined Dec 2005
762 Posts
Awesome, looks pretty good to me, need to get my frame going.
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 11:13 PM
I'd FPV it.
Ho-Jazz's Avatar
United States, GA, Winder
Joined Nov 2009
2,870 Posts
Lookn' good.
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 09:25 AM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
18,490 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by vic20owner View Post
Here's a video of me flying the prototype... sorry my version of iMovie would only upload it at 640 and I dont have all night to convert it... but DJI motors and esc, 8" props (too small and chipped and warped from junk pile), Naza at stock settings no tuning, gopro has dirt inside it from last crash tests and is mounted with a single rubber band ... so this is probably a worst case scenario.

This frame has no anti-vibration stuff, and it is very stiff, so you should record at 720p@60fps if possible. All gopro's should be able to do this and thats what the frame is really designed around. I'm hearing the open pilot crowd having trouble with tuning it. So everything appears normal at this point (kidding).

http://youtu.be/Z9H46-RG0_U
Drat...can't watch vids from work...will have to wait until tonight to view.

I plan on using 750kv motors on 4S on my frame. I need to make some modifications first, so thought I'd mount my 1300kv motors on 3S for initial flights. The 1300kv system draws high 50A on 3S with 8" props...way to high for any duration flying...but should be fine for my initial flights.
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 10:11 AM
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Matt Gunn's Avatar
United States, OH, Parma
Joined Jul 2009
5,131 Posts
Theres so many different options for power, I'm hoping I went with a good setup... we will see.

I went with:
HP2212 1000kv
9x4.7 cf props
20a flashed esc's
running 3S

motor, props, esc's from RCtimer
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 10:17 AM
Build,Fly,Crash,Repeat
Michigan
Joined Nov 2007
514 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by webdr View Post
Theres so many different options for power, I'm hoping I went with a good setup... we will see.

I went with:
HP2212 1000kv
9x4.7 cf props
20a flashed esc's
running 3S

motor, props, esc's from RCtimer
Don't worry, That is a well proven setup, Let me know how those RC Timer motors are. I have been thinking of trying some but I already have my SunnySky motors. I heard that the RC Timer HP's are clones of the SunnySky motors, They look good and good price too.
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 10:22 AM
Build,Fly,Crash,Repeat
Michigan
Joined Nov 2007
514 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vantasstic View Post
Drat...can't watch vids from work...will have to wait until tonight to view.

I plan on using 750kv motors on 4S on my frame. I need to make some modifications first, so thought I'd mount my 1300kv motors on 3S for initial flights. The 1300kv system draws high 50A on 3S with 8" props...way to high for any duration flying...but should be fine for my initial flights.
Vantasstic, What 1300's do you have?, I plan on trying some Turnigy 3727 1300's on 8x4.5 three blade on 3s, I didn't think they would draw more than 40a on this setup. Actually, I was figuring around 30-35a most but using a 40a esc. I have not tried them with anything and there's no specs on the darn things other than HK's bloated 450w 42a listed, No prop data or nothing, So it was a blind guess.
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 12:01 PM
Build,Fly,Crash,Repeat
Michigan
Joined Nov 2007
514 Posts
So I was just sitting here thinking and I remembered someone saying they had to adjust PID settings due to the rear arms being wider than the front. If the rear arms are wider then wouldn't it be biting dirty air from the front motors prop wash, Seeing how the air from the front props would move outward, By the time it travelled forward the rear props would be in turbulent air. I wonder if it would help to put the wide arms in front so the rear props could catch cleaner air?, Basically just set it up backwards, This would also eliminate or reduce props in the video, Just a thought.

GG
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 12:11 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gadget-Geek View Post
Vantasstic, What 1300's do you have?, I plan on trying some Turnigy 3727 1300's on 8x4.5 three blade on 3s, I didn't think they would draw more than 40a on this setup. Actually, I was figuring around 30-35a most but using a 40a esc. I have not tried them with anything and there's no specs on the darn things so it was a blind guess.
Exceed Rocket 2215 1300kv motors...28mm OD. I've tried them on a couple of different frames on 3S with 8" props...about the same max amp draw...high 50A-low 60A range. They had plenty of power though.

I might not install them now. I made up a programming harness for my HobbyKing Multistar 20ESCs so I plan on flashing them with SimonK firmware for the NTM 750kv motors. If I don't get (to) lazy I should have it ready to fly this weekend.
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 12:16 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
18,490 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gadget-Geek View Post
So I was just sitting here thinking and I remembered someone saying they had to adjust PID settings due to the rear arms being wider than the front. If the rear arms are wider then wouldn't it be biting dirty air from the front motors prop wash, Seeing how the air from the front props would move outward, By the time it travelled forward the rear props would be in turbulent air. I wonder if it would help to put the wide arms in front so the rear props could catch cleaner air?, This would also eliminate or reduce props in the video, Just a thought.

GG
You must be an engineer...way overthinking it. The Flip FPV frame arm width for front and back. I was expecting narrow and longer configuration (based on Tom's info). It's the other way around. The motor centers side-to-side are ~14 5/8" and ~11" front-to-back. So it's actually a little wider than it is long. I'm curious if moving the arms in (effectively shortening them) so the motor spacing was more 'square' would make any difference in flight. It seems people say the 'square' frames do a little better than asymetric frames. Tom...that might be an idea for V2 frame plates...no slots for the old style arms and a few extra holes for moving the arms in/out a little for owner preference. Of course I'm saying all this without having flown mine yet...
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 01:25 PM
LOAD "FLIP-FPV",8,1
vic20owner's Avatar
Joined Sep 2006
3,943 Posts
I tested the frame with square and rectangular layout. FPV frames have their major weight at the front and rear (camera and battery), this is a lot of mass to move in yaw and moving it requires large props and powerful motors. A quad does not have very much yaw authority and most standard quads have most mass in the center (very little effort to rotate).

So by moving that mass towards center (rectangular layout) yaw authority is better. I didn't just guess here, I flew 20 different versions of this frame starting with a square layout, and going more rectangular with each version. So there is a method to my madness beyond speculation.

That said, I can make longer center plates for those who would like to test this for themselves
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 01:33 PM
FPV Enthusiast
martinic's Avatar
New Brunswick, Canada
Joined Nov 2004
1,884 Posts
I'm really looking forward to this flying this frame. Lightweight, compact and tough. Terrific sport model. Hits all my design preference points.
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 01:47 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
18,490 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by vic20owner View Post
I tested the frame with square and rectangular layout. FPV frames have their major weight at the front and rear (camera and battery), this is a lot of mass to move in yaw and moving it requires large props and powerful motors. A quad does not have very much yaw authority and most standard quads have most mass in the center (very little effort to rotate).

So by moving that mass towards center (rectangular layout) yaw authority is better. I didn't just guess here, I flew 20 different versions of this frame starting with a square layout, and going more rectangular with each version. So there is a method to my madness beyond speculation.

That said, I can make longer center plates for those who would like to test this for themselves
Nah...I'm probably good...you already dun the testing and I've got no reason to not believe you...especially since I haven't flown mine yet anyway! The thing looks so cute. I can't wait to put it in the air!!!
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