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Old Dec 15, 2012, 11:37 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
Las Vegas, NV
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Originally Posted by JPV FPV View Post
Tom,

Whats the recommended way to mount the distribution board? Is there any specific hardware needed/included? Clearance between the bottom plates looks tight.

Thanks,
JP
I mount my distro boards with nylon screws on short nylon spacers. I orient them with my solder pads facing down to reduce something falling across them and shorting out. Tom mentioned his frames have holes to mount most size controllers, so the distro board mount holes should like up with pre-drilled holes.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 01:24 AM
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United States, CA, Walnut Creek
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Awesome frame. How is vibration levels with gopro?
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Vantasstic View Post
I mount my distro boards with nylon screws on short nylon spacers. I orient them with my solder pads facing down to reduce something falling across them and shorting out. Tom mentioned his frames have holes to mount most size controllers, so the distro board mount holes should like up with pre-drilled holes.
I've been using liquid tape on the positive ring to prevent shorting. I'll probably modify the aluminum spacers provided to make baby standoffs since I dont have nylon ones. Looks the the hole spacing supports the HT disto board in Juz's photo. I like!
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 07:24 AM
Build,Fly,Crash,Repeat
Michigan
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Wow Juz, That looks great!, Those 3530's look huge on there!. I can't wait to see some vids on youtube. Vantasstic, I too thought about putting the spacers under the middle deck and putting the arms resting on the bottom side of the middle deck, Rather than them being on top of the bottom deck, Kind of like that picture you posted awhile back. Maybe even mount the motors from the bottom of the arms and put the battery on top of the bottom deck. I guess the Flip is the perfect name, It seems it can be flipped around to many different configurations.

GG
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by JPV FPV View Post
Tom,

Whats the recommended way to mount the distribution board? Is there any specific hardware needed/included? Clearance between the bottom plates looks tight.

Thanks,
JP
For the dist board, its better to use 1/4" spacers and the 3/16" screws which come with the kit. The original dist board kit we sold for the HT-FPV can be jammed in there but it's way tight... I had to hand mine from the upper plate so I could easily remove the bottom plate to do the wiring.

We will probably just change the hardware on the dist boards so there isn't a need to specify which frame it's for ... have not gotten there yet.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 11:44 AM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
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Originally Posted by Gadget-Geek View Post
Wow Juz, That looks great!, Those 3530's look huge on there!. I can't wait to see some vids on youtube. Vantasstic, I too thought about putting the spacers under the middle deck and putting the arms resting on the bottom side of the middle deck, Rather than them being on top of the bottom deck, Kind of like that picture you posted awhile back. Maybe even mount the motors from the bottom of the arms and put the battery on top of the bottom deck. I guess the Flip is the perfect name, It seems it can be flipped around to many different configurations.

GG
I looked at Juz' pictures a little closer. I see his upper frame mounted battery is hanging off the back of the top plate. If the 'gap' between the main frame plates was taller the battery should be able to fit between them and the lower plate would support the whole battery....so I'm thinking the taller gap on the main frame plates might work better for me. This is how it is on my OV3RQuad and it works well.

Tom...what is the thickness of your arms? I've got a order to place from McMaster-Carr and was thinking of ordering some taller spacers to try. Knowing the arm thickness will help determine what length spacers I need between the plates and between the ams and plates. Thanks...
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Vantasstic View Post
I looked at Juz' pictures a little closer. I see his upper frame mounted battery is hanging off the back of the top plate. If the 'gap' between the main frame plates was taller the battery should be able to fit between them and the lower plate would support the whole battery....so I'm thinking the taller gap on the main frame plates might work better for me. This is how it is on my OV3RQuad and it works well.

Tom...what is the thickness of your arms? I've got a order to place from McMaster-Carr and was thinking of ordering some taller spacers to try. Knowing the arm thickness will help determine what length spacers I need between the plates and between the ams and plates. Thanks...
Arms are .25" thick. Space between places is .5". I have 1/4" spacers on top of the 1/4" arms for 1/2" spacing between plates.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by networkit View Post
Awesome frame. How is vibration levels with gopro?
More than most expensive FPV frames because it has no vibration dampeners. 720p@60fps on my gopro was acceptable with the gopro resting on a thin sheet of foam. 1080p is not going to work unless you get creative with the camera mounting.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 02:09 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
Las Vegas, NV
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Originally Posted by vic20owner View Post
More than most expensive FPV frames because it has no vibration dampeners. 720p@60fps on my gopro was acceptable with the gopro resting on a thin sheet of foam. 1080p is not going to work unless you get creative with the camera mounting.
Thanks for the arm thickness info Tom.

I found the 3-blade props help a lot in smoothing out video and reducing jello. Of course, well balanced motors and props are the #1 help. The 3-blades aren't as efficient as the 2-blades. This seems to help with slower corrections, reaction time, etc which helps smooth the overall frame movements. The 3-blades are a little harder to balance, but seem to be worth the effort.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 10:25 PM
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United States, OH, Parma
Joined Jul 2009
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Just ordered a FLip today .
Im stoked about fpving this one. Ive also got an RC Eye 650 which has been a blast as well.

Im going 3s 5000 (or 4200), 2212-13 980KV, 9x4.5 props, and 20a flashed esc's
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 12:03 PM
Build,Fly,Crash,Repeat
Michigan
Joined Nov 2007
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Originally Posted by vic20owner View Post
More than most expensive FPV frames because it has no vibration dampeners. 720p@60fps on my gopro was acceptable with the gopro resting on a thin sheet of foam. 1080p is not going to work unless you get creative with the camera mounting.
I wonder if notching the arms or separating them at the base would correct some vibrations, Kinda like a tuning fork. This would give them two points of contact to the frame and may help disperse any adverse effects, It would also give you a way to route your ESC wires, Of course you would have to make it so the arms used four mounting points rather than three, Any thoughts?.

GG
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Gadget-Geek View Post
Cralis,

I started to post some sudgestions but soon realized everything I had to say has been said. I ordered two Flip FPV frames and my build is going to consist of a NAZA w/GPS, SunnySky 2212 980kv motors or my SunnySky 2217 1250kv motors 20 or 30a ESC's flashed with SimonK firmware, 9x4.7 props 3s 3300mah or 8x4.5 with 4s 3000mah battery, If the batteries end up being to big I may opt for 3000mah 3s or 2650mah 4s. RC Timer has all you need at a great price minus the frame. I think this would be the easiest for you if your just starting FPV quads. RC Timer has the same motors but they call theirs HP2212 1000KV, They draw around 15a on 3s with 9x4.7 props. Some RC Timer 20a ESC's with SimonK firmware and you'll be good to go. Another popular setup is HobbyKing NTM 2212 1200kv short shaft motors with 8x4.5 props, Just dont forget the prop adapter as they sell them seperatley. DJI motors are nice but they have a special keyed prop that tends to break easily. GemFan carbon/nylon props are what you'll want, Less flex and pretty darn tough, Tough is what you need in this hobby. My biggest advice would be not to fly it within 100' of anyone you care about until you get really good and even then take precaution these things seem to get brainfarts all the time and they always go towards people for some reason (SkyNet syndrome?,Maybe). Also, NEVER and I mean NEVER!!! buy used, your not saving a buck!, You're buying someone elses headache or outdated hardware.

GG
On the GemFan props make sure you balance them, horizontal first than vertical. I bought 8 of them (8x4.5) and everyone was out of balance some more than others. The out of balanced hub is the major factor (fixed that with glue gun).
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 05:08 PM
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Joined Feb 2012
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Originally Posted by juz70 View Post
my FLIP was fun and easy to build. Thanks Tom.

Cant wait to FPV it

Hoverthing FLIP FPV frame (357.2 grams)
CC3D
stock plush 30A escs
SK3 3530 1150kv motors (thanks Falco) (84.3 grams with prop adaptor)
graupner 10x5 e-props
3s 3000mah nanotech lipo
dragonlink rx
hobbyking 12v voltage regulator
1.3ghz 600mW vtx
homemade CL antenna (thanks shpoinks)
rmrc 480 FPV cam
gopro hero2
Im thinking about this frame and Im trying to decide between 3S and 4S. What kind of flight time are you getting with that setup?
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 07:11 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
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Woo Hoo. Got shipping notice on my Flip FPV frame. With luck I'll have it by the weekend...maybe...hopefully. I can't wait to see this gem in person!!!
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 09:04 PM
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You will... your frame actually shipped last week.. this morning I shipped your G10 scraps.
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