Originally Posted by Wartexx

Well, if it works with fatshark, it should be able to work with the rc305( with the frequency modification) I am actually quite happy with the way they designed it. Easy to mod , and fairly hard to break. First thing I will try and change is put an cloverleaf antenna underneath with longer legs as opted in the post bellow.
Cant wait to get it delivered here

I don't think adding a cloverleaf would be a too good idea, as it would increase the weight even more...(This is the reason why I didn't add a cloverleaf on my <3g solution...)
Edit: Hmm, on the other hand the mounted antenna is already very heavy, so using a cloverleaf instead maybe wouldn't add too much weight.

I don't see, how this should be easy to mod. E.g. IMHO the CM205 is way easier to mod. It should be hard to break, there I go with you together. Although I have some doubts about the stability of the big 2.7uH inductor, as it is quite large and the highest thing on the bottom side, and as we already had bad experiences with the stability of the inductors on the MiniCP...

What is strange: Although in the description of the TX5805 it is said PAL/NTSC. You can nowhere adjust this. Maybe they have two different versions??? At least at RCMaster you cannot define which video system output you would like to order...
I will have a look, which system my TX5805 uses...

Edit:
Sure I may sound a bit harsh on my comment. But I was really a bit disappointed to see that they really just did an "el cheapo" solution, what everyone else was already doing, instead of producing a new especially custom lightweight solution for micro-FPV.
This seems strange to me, as I definitely think this will be the trend for the next few years. So bringing out a finished good lightweight complete solution into the market would certainly have been an advantage over the competitors...
This solution on the other hand, is IMHO just a quick'n dirty and cheap solution. Everyone with just a bit of engineering experience could make the big mounting PCB himself. There I really hoped they would put some effort in it...But seems I was wrong...
Hope this doesn't sound too harsh, but as a professional PCB-designer myself, I was really disappointed...

Addition:
* I forgot to mention, that the used TX5823 transmitter is a 200mW transmitter, for those who don't know this.
* I don't like that the camera doesn't fit in between the two plastic struts underneath the battery-holder of my LB V1.Instead it has to be mounted on top of it, or one has to get rid of the two plastic struts.
I don't like this, as these struts help a lot in absorbing energy on a ground impact to save the main body. E.g. my CM205 cam fits perfectly in between the two plastic struts, so that it is save on an impact.
* They used the same kind of power supply, as many used here as a workaround: First a switched supply on 5V, and then and LDO for 3.3V. I don't like this solution as it unnecessarily wastes power. This is also why the LDO gets quite hot in usage...
The funny thing is, that although they would have had plenty of PCB-space to at least put a nice cooling plane beneath it, they didn't...
* IMHO the most sensitive part on an impact is the inductor. It is also the highest part, and instead of the LDO and the Cap, the double sided tape is not mounted on the inductor. So on an impact it gets the full force...

Another addition:
Took now the steel encasing from the TX-module, to see on which band it is configured.
Mine is configured for Band "B"
But it is dead simple to change the band. E.g. if you have a typical RC305 on band "E", which most do have, you just have to desolder the pulldown resistor on pin 4. This is quite easy, and most people with a bit soldering skills can do it.
You can also e.g. put some solder there (output pin 3) to change the Band to Band "A". The solder pads are there...
And dismounting the metal encasing is really easy.
You can then again mount it afterwards. Or let it be, you have to decide.
Without the metal encasing the camera weighs: 6.16g

As Kipkool reported, that his TX5805 is running on Band A, there really seem to be different versions available!
And on ordering there seems to be nothing to distinguish them...
My guess is, that the Band "A" type is intended for usage in the US, and the "B" types for usage in europe. As I live in europe, so I maybe got a "B"-Band type...
So my hope is, that they also used a PAL-camera for this "B"-band version. But this I will check later. Now I'm gonna go biking in the woods...

BTW: Sorry for writing such a lot. But maybe this is interesting for someone...

Back on topic:
So if you wanna use it with the famous RC305 Receivers, you either take your TX5805 apart and desolder the resistor, or you do the same to your RC305 so that it receives on Band B.
BTW: I anyway recommend anyone to mod the RC305 so that you solder two small wires to the band selection pins of the RX-module. Then you just need a 3-way switch and you can select with the switch if you wanna receive on Band A,B or E...
As said before. I personally cannot understand why they didn't also made the band selection pins connectable on the famous RX/TX modules.

So I now finally tested the video system.
My TX5805 camera is PAL
The camera works quite good in low light conditions. This is where my CM205 sucks...
The quality is also quite good.
But the picture is a little bit stripy and the FOV really small.
Attached a picture, where the stripes can be seen.

One thing I noticed, which I don't really like:
The amplifier chip on the TX5823 gets quite hot. This is normal. But usually it conducts the heat to the other side of the PCB to the giant GND plane and dissipates it from there. But on the TX5805 this is not possible, as on that side is the big PCB with the DC/DC. Therefore the TX5823 gets quite hotter than usually. Probably still OK, but could've been solved in a different way...

Edit:
Just FYI, as I shortly measured the output with my scope: The switching supply uses a 2MHz switching frequency and outputs a 4.5V signal, which then goes into the 3.3V LDO, which powers everything.

Final Notice:
I measured the horizontal FOV. It is about 45°.
(This cannot be compared to the usual FOVs indicated on camera modules, as usually they indicate the diagonal FOV. But IMHO the horizontal FOV is really a number, where you know, what it means.)

So here's the summary for my version of the TX5805 (which I ordered from RCMaster for EUR 37,99, which is roughly $50):

Specifications:

Video System: PAL
Transmitter power: 200mW
Transmitter "Band" (of RTC chips): "B"
Weight: 8.66g (7.35g without hull)
Horizontal FOV : about 45°
Measure of main PCB: 21mm x 35mm
Weight of camera: 1.33g (incl the 4 cables).
Antenna weight: 0.71g

Pros:
* Easy all in one solution
* Camera has good picture for the price

Cons:
* Camera is very heavy. IMHO too heavy for a LB.
* Camera gets very hot during operation.
* Camera doesn't directly fit under my LB V1.
* Camera has a very short antenna (< 1cm).
* FOV is IMHO too small for usable FPV.

If there's anything more I shall test/look at, just name it...

I am new to this forum, FPV and rc flying. But I do have lots of passion for this hobby. Would any of you experts be so kind to tell me what band my F7 is? I have started to take it apart and here are the photos. I currently have the Tx5801 and am only getting a solid video range of 30 yards at best. I have ordered the more powerful tx5803 video transmitter. I am thinking of adding a cloverleaf antenna to the Tx5803 as it has an external SMA adapter to the video transmitter. On the F7 video receiving side I want to replace the existing bi quad bow tie antenna with a matching clover leaf rx antenna? As I have read in the thread it sounds like there are multiple versions/bands of 5.8g devo f7s. I don't own any other fpv gear, does anyone have any ideas how I could positively determine the band? I was thinking of adding a "e band" foxtech 400 mw vtx to increase the range and reaiabillity. I am only hoping to get to roughly 300 meters of reliable video range. Am I dreaming?

If you don't have anything to test, then desoldering the metal encasing is the only way to see, for which band it is configured.
But I think "E"-band is probably out of question. As it seems, most do have a "B"-band, and some as it seems also "A"-band...

Did they really put the biquad on the inside of the transmitter, so that the joystick is in front of it??? E.g. as it looks, there's just this metal thingy from the joystick in front of the biquad. If it is like that, then that's hilarious!!!

As it seems, in the RX they didn't use the standard-module.
Can you also make a picture of the other side of the VTX-module? I would be interested if they also there did just use a standard VTX-module.

Originally Posted by OiOi

I
Addition:
* I forgot to mention, that the used TX5823 transmitter is a 200mW transmitter, for those who don't know this.

Mine is configured for Band "B"

As Kipkool reported, that his TX5805 is running on Band A, there really seem to be different versions available!

Hi there,

The TX5805 I received is made with another module: MM213TL
http://www.szfxt.com/pro1.asp?ID=42
To be more precise, the version of it is the 1.1 (the one the website is 1.0)
So mine looks to be 20-25 mw
I confirm that it is also a "B-Band" transmitter
I bought it to Chinesejade

So as Oioi mentionned, it seems that we are facing a lot of different version...

Now, my POV: this module is great for those who are not able to solder or people who just want to see what FPV looks like. But that's all!
Indeed, it is really heavy for a LB... So I would recommand to make it yourself... a better quality fpv gear bellow 4-5 gr can be "hand made" for almost the same price (or a little bit more)
- Take one of those 2gr camera with 90° Fov from ebay for about 35-40 usd
- buy a TX5813 for 15 usd and remove the cover shield (1.3gr)
- add a power booster for 1-2 more bucks on ebay (1gr if sanded, cutted and moded) (or spend more with a pololu ;-) ... it weights only 0.4 gr)

-> you are done with something great for 50 - 70 usd

You can even find that gear almost done for 50 usd... you will need to add a converter to keep it at 4v (power up/down from pololu will be your best choice for 0.7 gr)... without plugs it weights 3 gr (look for "wireless camera 5.8" on ebay) and the quality is much much better than a poor CM205

Lol, really funny...

It's strange, as even the specifications are so different (e.g. 20mW vs 200mW).
At least now I know, why they nowhere indicated the transmitting power of the TX5805.
@littlepili: Is your TX5805 also a PAL system?
Thanks for the indication of this camera. Do you have anywhere a review of it? I guess the low light performance is much better than that of the CM205.

@Kipkool: Is your TX5805 a NTSC system?

@centralfornia:
Hmm, when I look at your pictures, it really seems, as if they managed to put the biquad receiver antenna in the middle of the casing, with a lot of metallic stuff (springs, cables etc). right in the fresnel zone. That's just ridiculous!!!
How did you orient your antenna on the VTX?

Originally Posted by OiOi

It's strange, as even the specifications are so different (e.g. 20mW vs 200mW).
At least now I know, why they nowhere indicated the transmitting power of the TX5805.
@littlepili: Is your TX5805 also a PAL system?
Thanks for the indication of this camera. Do you have anywhere a review of it? I guess the low light performance is much better than that of the CM205.

Maybe that the V1.1 is more powerfull...
Well, if you explain me how to know if my system is pal or secam , i will be pleased to tell you

No review for that camera... I gave it a try and the first test looks promissing. My only regret is the way the module is linked to the camera... in order to have the image in the right way, you need to hold it with the module perpendicular to ground... The image's quality is great... nothing to compare with cm205 and 90° fov is a good deal for not so serious fpv...

I read that your are living in Switzerland... If you are close to Geneva, you could see it for real

Late last night after reading multiple sources of information regarding what frequency the F7 operates on I ordered the Foxtech 400 mw vtx which operates on the following frequencies. I am not sure what band that is? E?

CH1: 5705 CH2:5685
CH3:5665 CH4:5645
CH5:5885 CH6:5905
CH7:5925 CH8:5945

Before reading this thread I had ordered three Foxtech clover leaf antenna's. One SMA cloverleaf for the Walkera tx5803 200mw vtx, one RP-SMA clover learf antennafor the 400mw foxtech vtx and one RP sma clover leaf vrx for my Devo F7 handheld. Today I received the ipx to rp sma adapter that i ordered from ebay for $4, opened up my devo f7, then drill/tapped the external antenna connector on the top of the F7 transmitter near the aux2 knob. Here are the pics of what i ordered and where I mounted my external antenna adapter on the Devo f7.

As i declared in my first post on this forum, I am new to this hobby, this is my first fpv attempt, but again I love this blend of electronics, physics and of course FLYING! I plan on using this setup on my Walkera mx400s, v450d03s, and my lanyu Raptor plane.

I haven't received the Walkera tx5803 vtx, the Foxtech 5.8 400mw vtx, so I am nervous that I will not be able to use the Foxtech gear! Furthermore, I am still not sure what frequency my Devo F7 trransmitter operates at, nor my tx5801 vtx. I really like the idea of the walkera Devo f7s portability and it's all in one FPV setup, that also has the future ability to use an external monitor or glasses. Again I request input from all of you experts, do you think I will be able to use the Foxtech 400mw vtx that I ordered? If not, and theoretically, what should the range be using the more powerful walkera tx5803 200mw vtx, used in conjunction with the cloverleaf vtx and vrx antenna be like? I got this idea from the claimed success of similar mods done to the similar husban spyhawk system.

Originally Posted by littlepili

Maybe that the V1.1 is more powerfull...

Well, you will recognize it quite easily from the heat development. If you got the 200mW version, the transmitter gets hot quite fast, whereas the 20mW transmitter barely gets warm...
The everywhere used RTC chips do have a 20mW output from the main chip. Anything above that needs an additional amplifier chip. That's the difference between the TX5813 and the TX5823.

Well, if you explain me how to know if my system is pal or secam , i will be pleased to tell you

Where do you watch your videos (Receiver)? E.g. if you have a monitor or something like this, you usually either have to select the system, or there's a short display on connection, which system is transmitted.

No review for that camera... I gave it a try and the first test looks promissing. My only regret is the way the module is linked to the camera... in order to have the image in the right way, you need to hold it with the module perpendicular to ground... The image's quality is great... nothing to compare with cm205 and 90° fov is a good deal for not so serious fpv...

For $50 seems like a good deal to me (especially with a 90° lens included). But As I just don't wanna buy another one in this size region, I think I will rather buy another camera and use it together with the TX-Board from the CM205. I like this TX board very much. It is lightweight and has an included microphone.

I read that your are living in Switzerland... If you are close to Geneva, you could see it for real

I live just on the other side of switzerland...

I am not sure what band that is? E?

Yes
I posted the frequency table for the different selected "bands" for the RTC chips a few posts ago...
I definitely don't think that your F7 will be able to receive from your Foxtech VTX without any modding (changing band either on VTX or VRX).
If it is anyhow possible, I would mod the RX on your F7. E.g. do something similar, that I did with my RC305. But it seems like the metal cap for this module is not that easy to dismount. It is also not clear, if they maybe used the SPI-mode, which would mean, that you cannot that easily change the bands, as they are then defined by SW.
I don't know: Is there already a deviation FW for the F7 out? If it is configured by SW, then it surely would be easy to change to any frequency...


Your VTX looks like it is also using the standard TX-PCBs. If it is a TX5813 or a TX5823 (20mW or 200mW) I cannot tell like that.
As said, If you have no other receiver equipment to test which band your F7 is using, then you can e.g. desolder the metallic cap on your VTX, which is really very easy. Then you can immediately see, for which band it is configured (see my pics a few posts ago)
You can then also again resolder the metallic cap, if you like.

Originally Posted by FDR_

Walkera made FPV goggles:
http://www.hobbyone.com.hk/cn/product.jsp?id=11406

...however a bit too expensive.

Wow really expensive!
Probably will go a lot down.
Doesn't matter I connected my FatShark goggles to devo F4 video output and works really well

Originally Posted by OiOi

Well, you will recognize it quite easily from the heat development. If you got the 200mW version, the transmitter gets hot quite fast, whereas the 20mW transmitter barely gets warm...
The everywhere used RTC chips do have a 20mW output from the main chip. Anything above that needs an additional amplifier chip. That's the difference between the TX5813 and the TX5823.

There is no additional chip inside my TX and is definitively not as hot as my 200mw... So mine is only 20mw...
Anyway, more than enough to reach 200 meters... or even a lot more with good antennas

Where do you watch your videos (Receiver)? E.g. if you have a monitor or something like this, you usually either have to select the system, or there's a short display on connection, which system is transmitted.

Well, inside I connect the RX on my TV and outside I use a cheap 3.5" lcd monitor from ebay. Both are able to deal pal/ntsc signal without having to choose nor displaying anything.
I guess it is probably PAL but not sure

What is the furthest range we have seen with solid video reception with the devo f7/f4? What would be the best vtx to use with my f7 on 400 size quads? It look likes mine is a "b band" f7, a fatshark vtx? At this point I am really disappointed with the systems range and video quality.

I was able to find the devo f7 fcc certification pictures. here are the pics of the video receiver.
@oioi Thank you for quick reply's and insight.

I smashed my ladybird quadcopter in the process of learning to fly FPV. I have problems telling the altitude. However I got the TX 5805 camera and VTX and used it on my hexacopter Scorpion. Still learning but I have realized that a more vertical angle for the camera helps to tell the altitude.

ScorpionFPV (0 min 37 sec)

I've only seen the Ladybird FPV for sale. This is a first.

I am from Switzerland too (lausanne)
@littlepili
Do you have a link on Ebay for the booster... I am not sure of what I am looking for...
Something like this?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._2_7v_5v_.html

BTW is it easy to remove the shield from the module (I have the TX5813) ? Is it risky, I am not electrician so my soldering skill are...