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Old Dec 20, 2012, 10:32 AM
Twisted Do Nut!
KamikazePilot's Avatar
Fort Worth
Joined Dec 2010
2,442 Posts
Take a bow, Chris.

Haven't even flown mine and I'm already in love with it. Shh...don't tell the ladies.

Now get to work on a mini Pitts! If you could pull off a mini Pitts, then that would be the topping on the cake.
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 10:34 AM
RC Toys R 4 White Trash
Dan5.0's Avatar
Joined Dec 2008
4,090 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatirdr View Post
I got to my indoor gym last night. It's a full court basket ball gym with room for spectators around the sides. The larger 30" sized planes I have can fly there but its not relaxing as you are constantly running out of room and have to be extremely precise. This Crack Yak Mini is PERFECT in this smaller room.

My first impression when I got to fly at my indoor location, a single basketball court was, "This is CHEATING!!"

Seriously this is the best EPP plane I have ever flown. Wait did I say EPP? Just strike EPP and say its the best indoor plane under 30 inches I have ever flown. This thing slows down to a crawl and is incredibly predictable. I'm using 14gram 180mah batts on mine and I feel they are perfect for this model. I like floaty and usually push my cg toward the back edge of the range. This model handles rearward cg like it could care less. I was doing SLOW rollers and it was so easy!

Did they cook the EPP in a helium environment?

You feel like you are running a simulator at 1/2 speed. It just floats along so easy. LOVE IT!

I had a couple of oops moments when I was showing off inverted and dragging the tail on the floor and it canopy landed, Then a harder nose in showed that EPP is my friend. No damage. I'm not that great and still making mistakes so I appreciate the forgiveness of EPP. The LG work great on the gym floor and flex nicely for plopping down on carpet as well. I think the design using bar stock over rod is a great idea allowing the gear to flex on impacts that would normally snap carbon rod.

My AUW without battery is 73.8 grams using Welders and an Orange 6 channel RX without the case. I can't see the need to sweat over reducing more grams from the airframe. My two differing batteries showed the same flight characteristics regardless of the additional couple grams.
Wow man great write up. It's funny, but what you wrote is what everyone who has flown one says.
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 10:48 AM
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STLAV8R's Avatar
United States, MO, St Louis
Joined Jan 2009
451 Posts
I like the CG set so when you roll inverted the plane remains flying level. Where is that CG coming in at?

Whoever is using 250 mah batteries, where are you installing them? Perhaps you could post a pic.

And for those using the TH power combo, which servos need to be reversed?

And what size prop is being used with the TH power combo? 6" or 7"?
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 11:00 AM
United States, CA, Santa Rosa
Joined Mar 2011
883 Posts
Mine is ready to go, weigh-in at a hair over 72
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 11:05 AM
3D Hack
JC Spohr's Avatar
United States, IL, Glen Carbon
Joined Jul 2010
1,934 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by STLAV8R View Post
I like the CG set so when you roll inverted the plane remains flying level. Where is that CG coming in at?

Whoever is using 250 mah batteries, where are you installing them? Perhaps you could post a pic.

And for those using the TH power combo, which servos need to be reversed?

And what size prop is being used with the TH power combo? 6" or 7"?
Also...

What are the flight times that guys are getting for the recommended LiPo's:

180's?

250's?

Thanks,

JC
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 11:10 AM
Registered User
United States, NC, Raleigh
Joined Oct 2011
842 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by STLAV8R View Post
I like the CG set so when you roll inverted the plane remains flying level. Where is that CG coming in at?

Whoever is using 250 mah batteries, where are you installing them? Perhaps you could post a pic.

And for those using the TH power combo, which servos need to be reversed?

And what size prop is being used with the TH power combo? 6" or 7"?
I am currently testing with CG at recommended location and I am using velcro. If I can find a happy place for both 250mAh and 180mAh, I will cut a hole in the vertical fuselage for the battery.

I have only had 2 brief flights in the cul-de-sac with the 180 mAh battery. I was a little disappointed with power to exit hover, when I get a little off of vertical and try to power out, the speed sags and the mini falls to the ground (no damage - only a few inches above the road). I could have been hitting low voltage protection. I did not have time to try with the 250mAh. I hope to have time today to measure RPM and current with both the 180mAh and 250mAh batteries if I can beat the rain and the wind.

I have the TH Power Combo (analog on elevator & rudder, digital on aileron). I use a DX18 transmitter and I have aileron & rudder reversed.

Both flights have been with 7x3.5 prop.

Photos of current battery test locations attached. Light black ink line behind spar is recommended CG location.
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Last edited by JohnRB; Dec 20, 2012 at 11:11 AM. Reason: Add Additional Info
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 11:21 AM
Team Extreme! Team Twisted!
hercdriver7777's Avatar
Columbia SC
Joined Feb 2005
4,332 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by STLAV8R View Post
I like the CG set so when you roll inverted the plane remains flying level. Where is that CG coming in at?

Whoever is using 250 mah batteries, where are you installing them? Perhaps you could post a pic.

And for those using the TH power combo, which servos need to be reversed?

And what size prop is being used with the TH power combo? 6" or 7"?
CG is 61mm from LE, which should be half way between the spar and the ele servo.

250s go straight on the spar for me.

7/3.5 prop.

Not sure on the servos.
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 11:32 AM
LiPo-Sucker & Airframe EMT
pugsam's Avatar
Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Joined Aug 2010
3,784 Posts
For my few flights so far (been a bit windy, and now rain on the way......), I've had my 240 and 250 bats over the spar, a little farther back than John's are pictured.

If positioned farther forward, the ail servo may interfere with cutting a slot?

Using 7035 prop so far. (I have the 6", too.)

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Old Dec 20, 2012, 11:36 AM
Registered User
United States, NC, Raleigh
Joined Oct 2011
842 Posts
Question about DualSky Motor/ESC

Most ESC's must be trained about the high and low limits of the throttle channel by having the transmitter set at high throttle when the received is powered on and then moving to low throttle after the beep. This normally only needs to be done once, ESC's saves setting in EEPROM. After the calibration, receiver can be powered on with Transmitter at low throttle position.

I have been unable to locate any operating instructions on the Dualsky Motor/ESC on the Internet and none were provided with the motor. Is the procedure the same for the Dualsky as it is for normal standalone ESC's?

I know the Dualsky has a safety that requires going off of low throttle and then back again before the motor will start but just doing that does not tell the ESC the pulse width used for high throttle. This "feature" kind of gets in my way (I use throttle hold on my transmitter like it is done for Heli's), but I can live with it.
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Last edited by JohnRB; Dec 20, 2012 at 11:54 AM. Reason: Fix Typo
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 12:17 PM
Team Extreme! Team Twisted!
hercdriver7777's Avatar
Columbia SC
Joined Feb 2005
4,332 Posts
The throttle is auto calibrating for the most part. But you can set the ranges by starting it with throttle up then moving to idle. Here is the programming info:

http://www.dualsky.com/pic/product/11113016924.pdf
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Sweden, Stockholm County, Stockholm
Joined Jul 2012
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 12:30 PM
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042joasva's Avatar
Sweden, Stockholm County, Stockholm
Joined Jul 2012
101 Posts
RX without case

Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatirdr View Post

My AUW without battery is 73.8 grams using Welders and an Orange 6 channel RX without the case. I can't see the need to sweat over reducing more grams from the airframe. My two differing batteries showed the same flight characteristics regardless of the additional couple grams.



Do you put some cover on the receiver when you get rid of the case?
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 01:21 PM
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United States, MA, Sutton
Joined Aug 2006
1,455 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 042joasva View Post
Do you put some cover on the receiver when you get rid of the case?
In the past I have put clear packing tape over it. One layer. This time I went low tech as I was out of the tape. I just put a dab of Welders on the clean part of the board and pressed it to the fuse. I then pulled it away to dry. I reapplied the RX to the fuse and the Welders help firm. Done. Sure its out in the open but I don't plan on flying this anywhere moisture would ruin it. (such as outdoors over damp grass)
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Last edited by ducatirdr; Dec 20, 2012 at 01:28 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 01:38 PM
Registered User
United States, NC, Raleigh
Joined Oct 2011
842 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by hercdriver7777 View Post
The throttle is auto calibrating for the most part. But you can set the ranges by starting it with throttle up then moving to idle. Here is the programming info:

http://www.dualsky.com/pic/product/11113016924.pdf
Thank you. I checked that Web site yesterday but did not find it. Must not have searched properly.
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 02:57 PM
Registered User
United States, NC, Raleigh
Joined Oct 2011
842 Posts
Batteries

I got 2 short flights in on my Mini yesterday. I have 2 TH 250mAh and 6 HobbyKing Nano 180mAh batteries. Both flights were with the Nano's. I was disappointed with the power. Several times while in a hover I got off of vertical and tried to power out of the hover. Motor just slowed down and plane fell to the road - no damage, only fell a few inches.

I did not have time to try the TH batteries. I charged the batteries I was testing with so I could try again today.

Before doing any flying I used some 800mAh batteries just for testing in the shop on the ground. One of the things I did was set the throttle limits in the ESC by powering on the receiver with the transmitter throttle set to high and then going to low throttle at the beep.

I also decided to take some measurements at full throttle (battery voltage, current and RPM) using a 7x3.5 prop.

The first test I did was with a fresh 800mAh battery just to see what the motor was capable of with a high current power source.
Test Results = 8.16V, 5.5A, 10,000 RPM

I then tested the 2 TH 250mAh batteries.
Test Results = 8.14V, 4.5A, 9400 RPM

Last test was with the 6 HobbyKing Nano's (I tested all 6). These things are not very good! I got all 6 at the same time so maybe mine just came from a bad lot. I could not get good measurements because in less than 30 seconds the voltage was under 8.0V, the current was in the 3A range and the RPM was around 7600 RPM. The longer they ran, the worse they got. This explains my disappointment yesterday.

All of the tests were affected by temperature. The outside temperature was about 59F and the workshop where my batteries are stored is set to 60F in the winter when I am not working in there. They may have all done a little better at a higher temperature but since they were all tested in the same conditions the comparisons are still valid.

I did one test flight in the cul-de-sac with a TH battery and power was much better, no trouble getting out of a hover now. I did not fly long, storm is on the way and wind was starting to gust.

Time to buy more "good" batteries!
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