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Old Jan 03, 2013, 09:16 PM
sgu
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Hey Leroy, I think she'd look great with wheel pants but the airframe's almost too pretty to cover..

------------------------

Today I put some more trim on mine and rigged up the elevator and rudder (pull-pull.)

Dave
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 12:58 PM
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Hi Dave, it's just the new lumber that makes it look that way.

Your bird is looking good, I like the yellow it will be easy to see, clear or cloudy that color shows it's self well. I'm still looking at planes trying to find something that I can build a scheme from, I have a ways to go before I get there. Pull-pull rudder huh ? I have thought of going that way because of the size of mine but a stronger horn and 4-40 push rod should take care of it. Post pict's of how you did yours, I could change my mind. You didn't change any control surface size did you?

Later, Leroy
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 08:58 PM
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It's well known that the Tiger 60 is tail heavy but there is things you can do to lighten it up. First of all there are some pretty heavy lazer cut parts and some of them can be replaced with lighter weight balsa ones and drilled to reduce more weight. Those wanting to improve tail performance can do so by useing my example. You don't have to do the balance tabs to get that improvement but they will take some load off the servos and they do add to control of that long tail.

Leroy
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 06:29 AM
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What type drill bit are you using to cut those clean holes?

Bill S.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin_Flyer View Post
What type drill bit are you using to cut those clean holes?

Bill S.
Hi Bill S, they are Forstner bits, the set I have I got from Harbor Freight some time ago, cheep but work fine and have a nice wooden box with them. Seven bits ranging from 1/4" to 1", bits can be found at Lowe's and most hardware stores. When drilling balsa you need a piece of hard block behind it to prevent tear out and the block needs to be counter bored so there is a relief for the bottom of hole to go in which you just pick out. You need a drill press to do it right. Hole saws do not work as well as the bits and other types will really tear up light balsa so save the anguish and only use Forstner bits.

Strip ailerons are a firm somewhat dense balsa, which is heavy, and they too can be drilled to save weight, also formers in many kits can be lightened up the same. Most cases drilling does not weeken the structure just always use common sense and don't go too big, always leave enough material around edges for any forming to be done. I will taper all trailing edges of mine so will add a small gussett to any sticks going to the trailing edge of the open frame work on rudder.

Build happy, it's more fun, Leroy
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 08:05 AM
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Thanks for the info.

I really miss Woodworkers Warehouse at times!

I will check Harbor Freight for a set.

Bill S.
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 06:25 PM
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Bill your welcome, those bits are nice to have and an assortment of Brad point bits cut better than regular drill bits, work great in balsa, always use a harder backing block when you can and minamize tear out.

After scowering store shelves for anything remotely shaped like a cowl and found nothing, that is before I got to looking at a 1 gal. Valvoline oil jug and I started seeing a cowling in it, well most of one. Lights in my head really started to come on, cleaned it up and cut it in half and but it over the front end and it fit pretty good. Drew some lines on it and cut handle and snout off and darned if it didn't look like a cowling already. All of a sudden it was looking easier than I thought, "yes, woopee, this is cool", gonna save me alot of work.

Earlier I finished the upper deck , lid will be held on with 2 screws in rear and 2 1/8" dowels in front, still have the ignition hatch on bottom to cover then can start on fitting pieces together to make the missing cowl parts. Man it's amazing how that changed the look of the plane, it's going to be a good looker. You never know for sure how things will look until you get this far along, couldn't be happier about it. Cowling will get cheeks so muffler can stay inside it..

I invite anyone to comment or express your ideas on this cowling build, I know some of you have done this, it's my first attempt at it. My hope is to use wax only and no PVA when I glass it for the mold to make the final one from and I only want to do it once. If I'm doing it wrong please help me out. If this turnes out real well I will have a mold to make others from, never know, someone may like one too.

Enjoy pict's and help me out here, thanks, Leroy
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 08:38 PM
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I make them by gluing foam blocks to the front and cutting/sanding to shape, then glassing over. Pull it off, dissolve the foam, and voila! Perfect fit custom cowl!

Andy
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 06:25 AM
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RCM had a different way. I miss this magazine, even though it contained a ton of ads.

http://www.rcmplans.com/issues/reque...-092000-1.html

Bill S.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 03:31 PM
sgu
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Hey Leroy,
I like the cowl. You should do some sort of vintage Valvoline paint scheme to go with it.

My wing is covered (including vinyl lettering) and my ailerons are next. I'm a little apprehensive about this step but I'll follow your advise on attaching the the slotted hinges.

Then all I need is to put the trim on the top of the wing, balance it, and wait for spring.

Dave

Edit: Ailerons are in and no binding. Thanks for the tip.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 12:19 AM
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Dave, cute plane, my cowl is turning into a PITA, it's a long story.

"So", who has made a cowl from foam then fiberglassed it and then poured some chemical in it to desolve the foam ? I'm at my wits end for the moment, all I want is a simple cowl and I can't buy one to fit this plane.

Making a plug to make the mold to make the cowling is not as easy as it may sound so I'm looking for other options, do any of you have any.? I simply don't have any experience in mold making, the foam idea sounds intresting. Leroy
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 07:09 AM
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Andy has the right idea. It's prefect for a "one-off" cowl.

The magic "chemical" to disolve the foam can be gasoline.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 02:45 PM
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Leroy, you can make a foam one pretty easily. The hardest part of the whole thing (and it's not hard at all) is to locate the spinner backplate. You do that by gluing enough blocks in place that you can mount a ply disk there, using the motor to get it in the right spot. REmove the motor, add the missing foam blocks, and start cutting and sanding.

Sanding foam works best in running water. I've been known to take a shower with my model but you can do it with a tub of water nearby. I start with a coarse grit (80 or so) and finish with one of those flexible wall sanders from the hardware store. Lots of water really helps, I can't stress that enough.

After it dries off ...

Put on a coat of finishing resin (I use West Systems or Z-Poxy), then several layers of medium cloth. You could probably use 3 and 6 ounce on your size, maybe 3 layers. After it cures, you sand it a little and then paint.

Yes, it takes a little time, but you're only making one.

Andy
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 10:30 PM
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Thanks Tom, who thinks of all this stuff ?. There is more tricks than you can shake a stick at------- thats if you know them.

Andy what's the difference sanding it (foam) dry except for the static and the fact it sticks to every thing. I have a good dust collector and a shroud to help with that.I will make the plug from blue foam and I can cut the right and down 2 degrees off sets, mark prop shaft center and make it 1" longer and adjust fit after I get the foam out of the shell. I will test the gas idea before I start,----- this I gottta see first but it's going to be outside for sure.

Thanks for the help, I at least have an idea what i'm going to do now. Will file a report when I get it done. Leroy
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 11:02 PM
sgu
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deleted..off topic
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