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Old Dec 20, 2012, 11:37 PM
sgu
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What type of glue do you use for the hinges and how do you keep it out of the joints? I had a total disaster putting my flat hinges in.First I got glue in the joint (med CA) and then the glue set before I could get the hinges together all the way. Had to cut them apart and go with CA hinges from the kit leaving the remains of the old hinges in there. What a mess. First time covering is going better than I expected but still not very professional.

Dave
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 12:43 AM
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Dave when I use ca hinges I oil the hinge pin with 3in1 oil and work it into the hinge and wipe any off on the tabs. after slots are cut I ddrill 1/16" or 3/32" hole through the center of slot for a path for glue to follow, use CA thin with an applacator on it so you can stick it in the drill slot. It doesn't take much just have the flow headed down. I usually will put them in the moveing part first, allow some set up time and then install them and glue the same way. After it sets up good you can drive a pin through them so they will never come out.

Another way is to use 30 min. epoxy, work it into slot wipeing away any excess then slide hinge in ( don't forget to oil pin ) either way works and I've never bound one up yet. Also keep gap space at a minimum. I might add that you should cut a wee bit out so the pivot of the hinge will allow the hinge pin to be centered on the pin when it's installed and you will get a fit with hardly any gap.

Follow the guide lines that come with the covering and get iron temp right to just activate adhesive around 200-210 degrees for Ultracote It's more for monocote.
You probably know this stuff, it comes with covering but here is something that may help when triming the edges prior to the wrap around edge. Take a 2" stick of 3/8" balsa and on the end cut a slot 1" deep with 1/4" one side and 1/8" on the other and glue a #11 exacto blade in it for a trim tool. Just drag it along any flat surface while cutting the over hanging film and roll the edges for a nice look.

Practice makes perfect, Leroy
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 07:01 AM
sgu
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Great Advise, that's a much lower stress way of doing it. I like the cutting gage also.

thanks, Dave
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 10:45 PM
sgu
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I'm calling it until next year.Truth is I probably won't fly until spring.
Keep on building!
Dave
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgu View Post
I'm calling it until next year.Truth is I probably won't fly until spring.
Keep on building!
Dave
Dave it's going to look good, Me, I'm going to get some more done, I will still enjoy the holidays and some football games.

Wishing all a happier New Year, things got to get better for many, Leroy
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 04:24 PM
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I finished the ailerons and flaps, got the skins glued up and the bottom of one wing skin glued on and under pressure as I write this. I will have the others on before Christmas. After the bottoms are on I will drill corners of servo mounts so I know where they are and add more hinge blocks for ailerons, then top skins. Flaps and ailerons will be dowel mounted and the sanding will start, all surfaces will be flush this way. Don't need strings in wire tubes, I can go straight through them. All thats left on wings are the tips and they will be the air dam type, if thats the propper term ?

Stablizers will come next and they will undergo changes also. Upper foward deck and cowling plug will follow. I like the look so far but I haven't decided on a scheme yet, only ideas in my head. Plenty of time for that.

Enjoy the hollidays and happy New Year to all Leroy
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 05:22 PM
sgu
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Looks Great! The removable canopy will be nice.One of the things I don't like about my Tiger is that it needs to be placed upside-down (on a stand) to attach the wings.

Dave
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 01:01 AM
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Looks Great! The removable canopy will be nice.One of the things I don't like about my Tiger is that it needs to be placed upside-down (on a stand) to attach the wings.

Dave
Well Dave now you know how to change that,ha ha, guess your just going to half to bash one. Yes I will be nice to go to the field and slip the wings on and fly it, well almost, you still have to put the bolts in it but I won't be packing a stand around for this one.

You should see whats required to put the 85" wing on the mustang, darn near needs two people for that one. I can do it but I need alot of room so the Tiger is goind to be a pleasure, come spring that is.

Later Leroy
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 02:36 PM
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Getting the wing sheeting on and sanded sure changes the perspective of this 855 sq. in. wing. When I went outboard mounted wings a gained a bit more, I didn't shorten them and I gained 4" in width for a total wing span of 74"s. Will get started on the tips and stablizers, I'm going to try and lighten up the tail end some but changes there may make that hard to do, we'll see.

Hope everyone had a nice Christmas, Leroy
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 09:07 PM
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It's not too late to put a 'V' tail on it...
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 09:11 AM
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Smoooth wing.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 04:48 PM
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ARUP speaking of tail, I just came in after glueing up the horizonal stab and I'd just hate to cut it in half now. Pretty much followed the plan except the trailing tips have been formed for ballance tabs on elevators which will have 1 1/2" more cord tapered out to stock position of trailing tip and then they will get tapered to about 3/16" across trailing edge. Rudder will get same treatment and also have a ballance tab.I want to use ST 47 BB servos and the tabs will take some pressure off them. Should have more picts shortly.

SGU this whole build is going along smooth, it's been a relaxing kind of build, nothing is really hard about it, great kit to bash. Leroy
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 08:23 PM
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One thing for sure, it doesn't take long to put things together. Tiger is an easy build and it's just as easy to bash. By the way, where did this bashing term come from ? it sounds more distructive than constructive. Personally I like the sound of, a make over or remake, thats what it feels like I'm doing, "oh well".

My Tiger 60 has gotten a new tail, or part of one. Expanded elevators and balance tabs should help something back there. Verticle stab. and rudder will get same treatment, I'm looking for more performance out of this guy.

I'm getting to the point where I really want to see it fly but Spring is a long way off.

Leroy
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 08:43 AM
sgu
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Those elevators look great. Looking at your temporary hinge dowels, do you have to be careful when sanding so as not to set the stab on fire?

It doesn't look like you used the piano wire to tie the elevators together, is that bass wood? Will you use individual control horns?

Dave
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 04:14 PM
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Hi Dave, thanks for the chuckle, ha ha. Actually it's hard to get enough friction with good sand paper to start a fire, unless you strike a match "yea", it's the old stuff ya got to worry about. Joiner of the elevators is via a 5/16" oak dowel epoxy'ed in there and only one control horn is used. I will lighten up elevators with some holes and do the same to rudder which has been changed fore & aft and a balance tab to help take some load off the servo and the rudder is broader at the base. Should get more authority out of the rear end as the plane could use it.

With the major construction done I put it all together to check it all out and I'm very happy with results and looks. I raised the tail to plane position and I have 1 7/8" prop clearance which should be good. Wheels still look small at 2 3/4" but wheel pants may change that, I may make them and the wing tips are next on the menu. Cowling should be a fun project, I've never made a plug to mold from so I'm learning something else.

Enjoy the pict's. and it sure would be nice to see another build take off from what I've done, surely this must create more intrest than I've seen so far. Leroy
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