Originally Posted by Rellik

merry xmas from you to the rc moto world

And a very merry one to you too Rellik and all the guys out there as well, have fun with your new presents .

I have to wait untill I get my anual Christmas check before I can buy mine. And I also have to pay my property taxes out of it. Boy, do I hate taxes! But I love roads, to drive my RC's on, lol. So I'll pay up, and then get me one of these bad boys!

Originally Posted by stuball56

I have to wait untill I get my anual Christmas check before I can buy mine. And I also have to pay my property taxes out of it. Boy, do I hate taxes! But I love roads, to drive my RC's on, lol. So I'll pay up, and then get me one of these bad boys!

Yea bugger those taxes, hope you have fun stuball.

Rear shock big bore adaption. Bare with me only one pic at a time.

Step 1. Pic 1
Drain oil and carefully dismantle both shocks removing shafts and pistons but leaving the seals and bushes in place. Next place a washer over the std shaft before pushing on the big bore 1.2 piston. Screw on the nut to retain the piston. Use a soft cloth to prevent damage to the shaft when holding it with pliers.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

Step 2. Pic 2
Put a drop of oil onto the shaft or into the seals before pushing it through the shock. Clean the thread of any oil once its through. I use a bit of carby cleaner on a cloth. Make up a solid bump stop of about 5 or 6 mm. The spacer in the pic is a servo horn cut off. Anything solid plastic similar would do. In another shock I use two old pistons drilled out. Make sure its a nice wide bump stop that's pretty robust.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

Step 3. Pic 3
I fill the shock with 70wt oil and bleed the air then screw the cap on. I put a drop of super glue into the thread hole in the shock end and let it dry before screwing on the end until there is almost 2 threads showing. The measurement from end of eye to eye is 106.5mm. ( Edit... I've since reduced that to 105mm ) You could also make up a alloy shock end to make the setup absolutely bulletproof. EDIT. For slower newer riders or if you are in a colder climate you might want to start at 40 wt and work up until happy.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

Step 4. Pic 4
86mm is the measurement from end of eye to eye with the shock fully compressed. For bitumen use I'd recommend reducing travel more and stiffening oil more. Also maybe try 80wt on grass for less wallow.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

Step 5. Pic 5
Fit the spring and retainer from the original shock. The spring length shown here is 40.5mm, I now use 40mm.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

Step 6. Pic 6
Make up some kind of upper bush to suit the hole in the cap. These are Hong Nor bits with the outer cut and shut about 1mm to fit the ball tightly.

Make sure to set the droop screw gap to about 3.5mm
Just a tip when servicing the shock make sure the diaphragm is not compressed when installing the cap otherwise the shock action will not be correct.
I don't bother using any sort of dust protection as it generally last five minutes for me before being to torn up.
Change the oil every so often and the seals and maybe shaft when it starts leaking.
The big bore I use is a Hot Bodies front one. 97mm I think. A HPI Vorza is pretty much the same thing.
I also move the top mount back towards the rear two holes to stiffen up the shock setting.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

Hey Chris,i got my hands on 1 ofna 16mm big bore finally.I put 80wt and this hot bodies spring
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXBTLZ&P=K
76mm - 74gf.It really makes a big diff.Suspension is very reactive but settles quick.I have some Assocc. springs on order,silver & bronze and ofna pistons to do some more experiments.They are 76 & 80mm and quite stiff.I am still amazed they used such a small shock on this bike,but it was a simple fix.I HIGHLY recommend a 16mm big bore.

Oh btw,i shoved a 3s pack in mine.I am using the 4800kv.Yeah it may blow,but that thing is stupid fast and tons of fun.

Thats great you've felt the improvement guru and are happy with your big bore. I was amazed to see and feel the shock action that comes with the bike when there is so much better available. It is very simple to do all right. The shock is not only controlling a 3kg plus bike but also the great spinning mass inside the rear wheel. After moving the shock position two holes back to stiffen I haven't felt the need to play with springs at all. I leave that up to you to play with and anyone else who wants to try. Your bike must be insane on a 3s battery all right.

Awesome Chris. I'll fix the website to flow like yours soon.

Originally Posted by JohnnyMc

Awesome Chris. I'll fix the website to flow like yours soon.

Thanks John, thought I'd better get it done for the guys.

For those wanting a little more protection for less than ideal conditions this mud flap helps keep the motor and front sprocket area much cleaner. Just cut out of a icecream container lid.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

Originally Posted by gurumods

Hey Chris,i got my hands on 1 ofna 16mm big bore finally.I put 80wt and this hot bodies spring
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXBTLZ&P=K
76mm - 74gf.It really makes a big diff.Suspension is very reactive but settles quick.I have some Assocc. springs on order,silver & bronze and ofna pistons to do some more experiments.They are 76 & 80mm and quite stiff.I am still amazed they used such a small shock on this bike,but it was a simple fix.I HIGHLY recommend a 16mm big bore.

Oh btw,i shoved a 3s pack in mine.I am using the 4800kv.Yeah it may blow,but that thing is stupid fast and tons of fun.

Hey Guru, are you running the gyro on 3s as well or a separate 2s.