I've been getting a few enquiries about the set up on my bikes so thought I'd start a set up and reliability tips and mods people do to the MM to make it even better.
I'll start with the setups I usually use and work on some more hints and tips.
Feel free to add your own ideas .

The Atomik MM450 set up for bikes in the videos are as follows. Bikes have some use on them and this suspension set up is quite hard. This allows you to hit things much faster and harder often with better results. May not suit low speed or really choppy tracks or slower/newer riders. You will have to soften slightly for these conditions. Suits high speed reasonably choppy but more rolling style bumps and big jumps. For new bikes also will need to be softer as suspension beds in more you can go harder. I run my bikes with a range of batteries from the std 3200 venom packs to some 6000 packs which as you can imagine are quite a bit heavier. My preference is for around the 5000 batteries, good run time and not too heavy. Battery weight also affects suspension set up, just as a heavier rider will need a differently set up shock and fork and also spring changes. My suspension also works well with the insert that is made up. The bike does still work really well with the std insert also.

Front forks 30 to 40wt ( start with 30 move up as the forks bed in if needed )
Rear shock HotBodies big bore front buggy shock 1.2 pistons 70wt oil ( if you like going slower and don't push the suspension to its limits you may be better off with the std rear shock or trying 40 weight and work up in the big bore )
Std rear spring
Approx 5 to 6mm solid bump stop on the shaft ( I use two old pistons or a servo horn drilled and cut )
Top shock mounted second hole from rear ( this is stiffer from std, again if the bike isn't pushed maybe stay std )
Rear spring length 40mm
Droop screw gap 3.5mm

Steering damper 30 to 40wt ( I use a better servo to give more steering response not heavier oil )
A MTCS blocks
Std tyres
Std front insert modified rear insert ( std works ok for most people in most conditions )
12 to 13 tooth pinion hardened steel will last long time
Steering servo Futaba S9451 with the speed turned down to 40 to 50%
Brake servo std
Radio std
Motor std Venom 4200kv and Tenshock SC401/6 5200kv
Speedo std and Turnigy Trackstar 120 amp
You don't have to use the modified rear insert I made them because of lack of stock but find they do give a little more grip on the slick handle sharp bumps better but also transition from side to side quicker because of a more rounded tyre so they may not suit everyone. On high grip the std insert works best just doesn't last long enough.

Good job Chris. Id like to get all this into a setup sheet on the website when I find the time. If you dont mind me reposting this from the vmx thread, it was asked how you setup your front brake:

Originally Posted by chktm

I turn the radio on, set the switch to aux. Go to the brake mix ( no 11 in the menu ) set it to 80% and turn it on. Next go to the end points set up the top at 120%, then start the low end at 0. You should have your calliper cable set up right with minimal movement before engagement. Bring up the low end until the brake just starts to grab and back it off until the wheel spins with no resistance. You use this adjustment as the pads wear to keep the pads close to the disk. That's it all set up. If you want more or less brake adjust it with the brake mix %. Just watch going too high as stalling the servo too much can burn it out. In saying that I have one of mine set at 110% and haven't had it fail.

Originally Posted by JohnnyMc

Good job Chris. Id like to get all this into a setup sheet on the website when I find the time. If you dont mind me reposting this from the vmx thread, it was asked how you setup your front brake:

Thanks John. Yea use what you want. Anything to do with setting up or maintaining, upgrading tips.

First I want to thank Chris H. for helping us all sort out these bikes and starting this thread, now my 2 cents--
On this vid, I think I have several things for you to consider as being thought of as a tip. I consider having a lower center of gravity as being very important in the bikes handling. I run my bike mostly on indoor tracks, very narrow lanes, with tight corners, so I need the bike to change directions quickly. As you can see from my more recent vids, my bike reacts very fast to steering inputs, it leans into the turn and stands back up very fast because coming off the corners you need the bike to stand up and get pointed in the right direction so you can gas it down the straights. Im sure that some of this stuff will transfer onto the outdoor dirt tracks too. What you can't see in this vid is that Vinnie has gone on a diet. I carefully removed the chest protector and hollowed out from his shoulders down thru his lower hips, leaving only 3-4 mm's of "skin" to hold him together. Then I cut a 8mm pie shaped wedge across the lower mid section to allow thim to bend at the waist for a more racy profile and take some more weight out too. I also cut wedges out of the front of his elbows so the arms would natually reach for the new bend I put on the handle bars (straighter, less swept back). I drilled a hole in the seat about an inch behind the original one to move his butt back and allow his body to bend into a lower profile on the bike. I also removed 6-8mm of his wrists to shorten his forearms because they were unnaturally long. I was afraid at the time to lighten his thighs and calves because I was afraid to weaken him too much, but he has taken a ton of abuse and is always repairable when something does tear, so I going to hack at him some more, including his head which sould have been my first priority to lower the CoG in the first place. Super glue works great for reattaching body parts. Prolly can save 20+% of vinnie weight above the CG if I hack enough.
That crazy flip fender works too. No matter what wheelie bar/fender saver ya use your still gonna eventually rip the fender behind the seat. From now on I'm cutting a nice straight cut across the back of the seat and zip tying (forming a hinge) the fender to it so it doesn't get that ugly ripped up look to it. I'm sure we can shoo glue a thick rubber band or spring to it to pull it back down after it flips up!
Next in the vid, I tied Vinnies feet up behind the crash bar mount with zip ties. (Used a green one so you can see it), right to the front of the rear number plate area. This does 3 things, it gets his feet out of harms way (no dragging toes off), it mounts Vinnie solidly to the body, and it stops him from wagging side to side going thru bumps and jumps, adding to the stability of the bike.
Next comes the cool, but expensive ($65) MaxAmps 4000mah (100c)custom battery pack. This pack is made from a "4000 mah saddle pack". This pack fits snuggly in the bottom of the stock battery box and as you can see when I layed the battery on the side of the bike NONE of the mass is above the motor. When we start racing these things, packs like these will be a must. Prolly by then we'll be in the nest generation of dirt bikes with the batteries mounted in the correct location to begin with, lol. I never was a fan of the vertical battery pack as you can tell from this rant, lol. Thank god and Chris N. for the Egyro!!

00161 VMX LOW CG BATTS + FLIP FENDER SAVER (1 min 31 sec)

Thanks Dave. While you may have a nice smooth surface to deal with, I, in some places have to deal with rocks this size under the surface . In other places its smooth, hard, slippery and dusty. These bikes can be set up and used on a wide range of surfaces and now with the e gyro the slow speed ability is great. Lets see some enduro stuff John lol.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=
All these rocks have come out of this area of the track.

If you have a leaky fork seal and when you pull your front wheel the forks end up looking like this you have an obvious problem lol. The piston retaining screw has worked loose allowing the shaft to come out. New seals and cleaning, lots of locktite on the screw and in the thread hole and tighten the screw firmly.
Also a tip for those using the big bore shock, when servicing pull the diaphragm out to make sure its facing the correct way as it gets compressed during use. If you miss this it can make the shock not operate correctly and feel too stiff. You want it domed towards you as you look at the cap. EG CAP)
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

To eliminate slop from the front wheel/rim I first super glue the bearing housing in place on the opposite side of the disk and then on the disk side place a piece of plastic sheet and push the disk home. Use a sharp object to poke a hole in it for the axle and all slop gone.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

Originally Posted by chktm

To eliminate slop from the front wheel/rim I first super glue the bearing housing in place on the opposite side of the disk and then on the disk side place a piece of plastic sheet and push the disk home. Use a sharp object to poke a hole in it for the axle and all slop gone.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

Thats how I fixed the VMX wheel too, Works good and helps irregular handling.

Originally Posted by TopDave

Thats how I fixed the VMX wheel too, Works good and helps irregular handling.

Cool Dave, any hints you have to eliminate slop or make the bike better in any way would be very helpful.

Once you've mastered the bike with the std crash bars and think you want to turn tighter make some shorter and more slightly upswept rounded bars to allow for greater lean angles and tighter turning. Bad pic I know. Take a look at how close his elbow is to the ground .
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

This is the bars I use.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

This is how far the bike can lean over on the flat. Take a look at how far away his elbow is from the surface . The berm helps in turning also and if you could rail a rut the bars would be scraping .
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

To save the rear guard from destruction you may want to fashion up a wheelie bar of sorts. Here's a few pics to give you some ideas. Here's a few vids of my wheelie bar doing exactly as you'd want. Stopping the bike from flipping or grabbing and front flipping and bringing the front down in a controlled manner if you get off the throttle. If you want to keep the wheelie going just keep lightly on the throttle.

Atomik Brian Deegan MM450 Dirtbike (1 min 2 sec)

MM450 long wheelies (1 min 18 sec)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

Here's a pic from under the guard of the wheelie bar.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

This is how I set up my forks. Strip the forks out of the clamps and drain the oil. Remove the lower caps and pull the fork tubes and seals out. At this point I remove the fork pistons, seals and bushes and polish the shafts using a polishing wheel not sandpaper. They come up with a mirror finish. They give a lot less stiction meaning a smoother faster ( better ) action, thats why i use a slightly heavier oil. Next clean the holes for the piston screws and the screws and assemble back the seals etc. wet the seals with shock oil on assembly. Use plenty of locktite on the piston screws and make sure they are firmly tightened. These screws coming loose are the main reason for fork seal premature failure as the shaft slips out and the sharp edge catches and tears the seals. While my fork tubes are clean i wrap 3 or 4 layers of plumbers thread tape around the top and bottom threads. This I find allows you to leave the bottom collar slightly loose for a few runs while the seals bed in allowing smooth and free action straight away. Tighten as forks free up more and start to seep from the seals. Make sure there is no binding. The forks should move as smooth as the rear end. The top threads benifit from tape by not leaking if the o ring doesnt seal properly and it keeps the thread from being worn out. I fill my new forks with 30wt oil , pushing the shaft up and down while filling to disperse the air. I fill to the top of the fork chamber with the shaft fully compressed. When fully bedded in i go to 40wt. With really old and worn ones I use 60wt. Once filled check each fork leg for smooth and free action, tighten or loosen cap as needed. Next assemble the forks into the clamps tightening only the top two screws. Next with the front wheel in place push the front end through its full travel and release several times. There should be no sticking. Tighten the lower triple. clamp screws lightly and check again for binding. Nip up don't over tighten. Next I tighten only one axle clamp screw. The forks are usually bedded in after a while running and jumping I find. If you find you have sticky forks after a big crash, loosen the lower screws on the triple clamps and even one axle clamp screw loose push the forks through their range several times, they should feel smooth with no sticking. I then nip up the lower triple clamp bolts and try again. If the forks start to bind I usually just back the lower bolts of 1/4 turn. I always leave one lower axle clamp loose as well. This gives me forks that work well, are ultra smooth, last a long time between seal changes and never stick . I change the oil every 5 to 10 hrs use depending on running conditions. About every forty hours or when the forks start to leak or develop excessive slop I change the pistons, seals, and bushings and if the shafts look good re polish ( otherwise replace ) and reassemble.
There is a step by step guide with pics on www.rcdirtbikeaction.com here http://www.rcdirtbikeaction.com/date/2012/08/
to help if needed.

When your front end starts to develop some slop in the steering stem block just get some model fuel tube and cut to size to replace the original rubber bushings. Keep an eye on the screws and nip them up as required. If you hammer the bike with big jumps they can work loose over time.
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