edit: The information I was given by tech support appears to be incorrect see post 348 below.

Originally Posted by rjstrickjr

The uproar is ready to fly.

I will be trying it out on Sunday. The bad news is the way its made it is real nose heavy. I bought 2 NMHI batteries for it both on them are 6V. ... Will let you konw how it and the motor does in the cold weather

Use one battery instead. I would suggest a LiFe two cell pack myself. It weighs less and has more capacity too. I like the LiFe packs for my planes. I have been steadily changing out battery packs over time.

My Escapade had two NMH packs in it at first, but one of the newe packs failed, luckily it was on the ground though. So I decided to switch to a single LiFe pack instead. I did use a Tech Aero iBec though as the CDI unit in the plane couldn't handle more than 6.0v max even though the radio and servos could. But anyway, the plane flew much better with the single LiFe pack versus the two neavier NMH packs I had started with.

Originally Posted by Hance

I called Horizon Hobby tech support and ask them if it was ok to run the ignition module and rx on the same battery. I was told go right ahead its not a problem.

I'm not sure who you talked to at Horizon Hobby product support, but I would just tell you that it is NOT Horizon's standpoint that running both the ignition and receiver off the same battery is safe.

What you do with your plane is absolutely up to you, but the product support tech that you talked with is incorrect about our standpoint.

Thanks,
Jimmy

Originally Posted by jspauld2

I'm not sure who you talked to at Horizon Hobby product support, but I would just tell you that it is NOT Horizon's standpoint that running both the ignition and receiver off the same battery is safe.

What you do with your plane is absolutely up to you, but the product support tech that you talked with is incorrect about our standpoint.

Thanks,
Jimmy

Michael was his first name. I don't recall the last. I can PM you my personal info if you would like so you can see who handled the call.

Originally Posted by DarZeelon

Rjstrickjr,


That's old school!

Years before that, NiCd batteries were heavy. NiMH batteries supply the same voltage and capacity, at half the weight (but their reliability/lifespan is significantly lower).

In the last 3-4 years, Lithium is the way to go, together with a voltage regulator, to bring it down to 5V or 6V. Lithium Polymer are the lightest for the same capacity, but their full voltage is 8.4V for a two-cell pack. They have nearly 10 times the capacity for the same weight as NiCd batteries.
LiFePO4 has half the capacity for the same weight as LiPo, but a lower full voltage (7.2V) and they are bullet-proof and much less sensitive than LiPo. They won't ignite spontaneously either.

For example, you can use this pack, with this regulator.

See how light this whole caboodle is.

Thanks for the info but I already run LiF4O and LiPo in all my planes. The reason I had to go with NMah is for the size of them. There is litteraly no room for evrything in the plane. It is all crammed and I mean crammed in the nose behind the tank. I will be very surprised if I dont get any interference.

Originally Posted by Hance

Michael was his first name. I don't recall the last. I can PM you my personal info if you would like so you can see who handled the call.

Thanks for editing your post. I will take care of it on our end.

Originally Posted by rjstrickjr

Thanks for the info but I already run LiF4O and LiPo in all my planes. The reason I had to go with NMah is for the size of them. There is litteraly no room for evrything in the plane. It is all crammed and I mean crammed in the nose behind the tank. I will be very surprised if I dont get any interference.

JRjstrickjr,


Did you look up those two items?
Their physical size is, I believe, smaller than a four-cell pack of NiMH/NiCd AAs.

Cramming them in would be even easier.

I think I will stick with what I have for now. This plane is just to break in the engines so I can use them on a twin project.

I started up the first one today and after much tinkering I have it running real good. It was running very spearatic and would not idle. Then the muffler bolt broke off and I now need to figure out how to get the broken part out of the Bisson Pitts muffler. I had another bolt so I used the muffler that came with the engine and it is now bolted to it. All the carb bolts were loose so I put a little more toeque on them and the bolt that holds the carb housing to the motor housing was loose aslo. After I started it back up I noticed fuel comimg out of the high speed needle. I unscrewd it all the way out and the O ring looked ok so I tried it again. I seen the problem, The fuel was coming out of the base of the needle valve where it attaches at the carb housing. I took the carb off and then unscrewed the needle valve from the housing and there it was. The plastic looking gasket was split and was pretty sure that was the issue. Sence I didnt have any gasket matterial that I knew for a fact was fuel proof I thought why not use a peice of fuel line. So I did, I cut a small peice and split it open, then took a brass tube and pressed a round hole in it. Cutt off all the excess and streched it over the base of the needle valve housing. It bolted right back up and then assembled the carb back on the engine. After it was all situated it ran like a champ!.

Tomorrow it will fly and the prop will get switched out from the 10-6 to the 11-6.

Rj

I haven't ever seen that much loosening going on with this engine. To break a muffler bolt like that it must have been shaking tremendously. The only reason I can think for that is you were running it way too rich and it was misfiring, or am I missing something else here?

Originally Posted by Pete Bergstrom

Rj

I haven't ever seen that much loosening going on with this engine. To break a muffler bolt like that it must have been shaking tremendously. The only reason I can think for that is you were running it way too rich and it was misfiring, or am I missing something else here?

It was sucking air throug the high speed needle. After I replaced the gasket with the fuel tube it ran fine. In fact I ran a whole tank out increesing and decreesing the RPM so it would heat up and cool down. I gave it full throttle for 20 seconds and let it idle for 1 minute then agan and again. Took 24 minutes to run it out, Impressive!

Mine flew today for the first time. It was fitted in a Seagull Funfly3D weighing 5.75 lbs and ran great and yielded unlimited vertical with an APC 11x6 prop though not with excess authority. A higher torque prop might help vertical and slow the plane down as it was pretty fast and too fast to my liking.

The only running issues were the engine died on the first two of three landings right at the end of the roll out. Prior to the third flight the idle was ticked up a click and it stayed running following the landing.

There was a small amount of exhaust residue on the plane, certainly far less clean up than a glow engine.

I'd used copper high temperature sealant on the muffler joints and muffler gasket surfaces and had no oozing either at the muffler/engine joint or the joints in the muffler.

The viton tubing stayed on the pressure tap without problem. I might have to rethink the tie wrap however as it doesn't allow for removing the line to monitor when the tank is full, which means that gas has to erupt from the muffler to know when the tank is full.

The first flight lasted 12 min and required 232 ma to recharge the LiFe battery serving both the flight system with six digital servos as well as ignition. I and others at the field were impressed with the engine performance.

Originally Posted by AA5BY

Mine flew today for the first time. It was fitted in a Seagull Funfly3D weighing 5.75 lbs and ran great and yielded unlimited vertical with an APC 11x6 prop though not with excess authority. A higher torque prop might help vertical and slow the plane down as it was pretty fast and too fast to my liking.

The only running issues were the engine died on the first two of three landings right at the end of the roll out. Prior to the third flight the idle was ticked up a click and it stayed running following the landing.

There was a small amount of exhaust residue on the plane, certainly far less clean up than a glow engine.

I'd used copper high temperature sealant on the muffler joints and muffler gasket surfaces and had no oozing either at the muffler/engine joint or the joints in the muffler.

The viton tubing stayed on the pressure tap without problem. I might have to rethink the tie wrap however as it doesn't allow for removing the line to monitor when the tank is full, which means that gas has to erupt from the muffler to know when the tank is full.

The first flight lasted 12 min and required 232 ma to recharge the LiFe battery serving both the flight system with six digital servos as well as ignition. I and others at the field were impressed with the engine performance.

What throttle % are you hovering at? How is the punch out from hover.

Originally Posted by Josef086

What throttle % are you hovering at? How is the punch out from hover.

I'm not a 3D flyer and after changing to a higher torque prop, I'll let my buddy fly and provide more precise answers to your questions.

The vertical today was not with great authority but was unlimited.

I'll add that configuration used today was a single LiFe supply to both flight controls and engine ignition through an IBEC. Range was tested with engine running without a hint of issue many paces beyond what is usually consider safe low power range.

Originally Posted by AA5BY

I'm not a 3D flyer and after changing to a higher torque prop, I'll let my buddy fly and provide more precise answers to your questions.

The vertical today was not with great authority but was unlimited.

Okay. I have been watching this engine closly. It looks like a great sport engine still not sure if it will make a good 3d engine. Not looking for the insane power I get on my 30 and 20cc planes but enough to give me something to work with on a smaller plane