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Old Jan 08, 2013, 04:31 PM
Engine Category Manager - EVO,
United States, IL, Champaign
Joined Aug 2005
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Originally Posted by brunofporto View Post
Thank you! I have access to AVGAS but I think it would be complicated to obtain - It was my best option if I could not use the Gasoline/Ethanol standard pump fuel. Now that I know they tested with Gas/Ethanol it is perfect!

One more doubt... On the manual they suggest to do the break in flying with Cuban eights! I prefer the static on the ground option for safety. Is there any problem doing the static break in?
It is actually easier on the engine and the Conrod to follow the breakin instructions in the manual. ABC constructed engines really need to be broken in at a much leaner setting than a ringed engine. By running it on the ground in a rich mode you can actually damage the Conrod and there really is very little breakin of the piston/liner fit occurring until you lean it out. By doing the breakin in the airplane in the air you assure plenty of cooling air over the engine and the engine will ultimately last you a very long time.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:30 PM
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Palo Alto, California, United States
Joined Jan 2003
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I started bench running my 10cc Gas Evo and here are some more measured numbers.

Weight = 1.44 lb with muffler and ignition module

Fuel = 91 Octane unleaded with 20:1 Redline 2-stroke oil

Prop = APC 11x7

Max RPM =11,800 APC 11x7 (still not broken in, RPM is still increasing)

Min RPM = 2,500 for reliable idle

Engine needle valve adjustment was insensitive to fuel tank location during these tests.

Engine must be warmed up (60 seconds +) before throttle response becomes reliable. In other words, needle settings from a previous run won't work until the engine is warmed up.

Fuel consumption at full throttle = 1.16 lbfuel/hour measured at 11,800 RPM

Assuming 1HP output this gives an sfc = 1.16 lbf/hp-hr at max throttle. This compares favorably with larger 2-stroke gas model engines.

The only issue I noted is that the muffler comes loose until the gasket is properly smashed flat. I also had to add a second nut to the long bolt that holds the muffler pieces together, otherwise it would vibrate loose and the muffler would self-disassemble. Since I made this change I've had no further problems. Total engine running time so far is only 30 minutes, proper break in will take an hour or more.


Steve
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 01:35 PM
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Joined Jan 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Bergstrom View Post
It is actually easier on the engine and the Conrod to follow the breakin instructions in the manual. ABC constructed engines really need to be broken in at a much leaner setting than a ringed engine. By running it on the ground in a rich mode you can actually damage the Conrod and there really is very little breakin of the piston/liner fit occurring until you lean it out. By doing the breakin in the airplane in the air you assure plenty of cooling air over the engine and the engine will ultimately last you a very long time.
Thank you Mr. Bergstrom,

But... I'll buy a new plane, with a new radio and new servos. Would be unwise to flight at the very first tank of a new engine.

Only one tank, the first one, of breakin on the ground at mid RPM, at least to know the fuel and batteries consumption also radio response , loose screws and commands due to vibration, etc.

>Just the first tank on the ground could not be harmful, could it?<

Edit: I also would like to know the the exhaust open period and the gas temperature at the exhaust so I can design a tuned pipe please?

http://www.bigscale-tourwagens.be/tuning.php?page=1

Thank you!!
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Last edited by brunofporto; Jan 09, 2013 at 02:01 PM. Reason: Added a question.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 01:51 PM
Expo is built into my thumbs
Hance's Avatar
USA, ID, Niter
Joined Jul 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brunofporto View Post
Mr. Bergstrom,

But... I'll buy a new plane, with a new radio and new servos. Would be unwise to flight at the very first tank of a new engine.

Only one tank, the first one, of breakin on the ground at mid RPM, at least to know the fuel and batteries consumption also radio response , loose screws and commands due to vibration, etc.

>Just the first tank on the ground could not be harmful, could it?<

Thank you!!
If you are worried about those things it sounds to me like you need to do a better job of assembling the plane.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 03:40 PM
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If you are worried about those things it sounds to me like you need to do a better job of assembling the plane.
I'm pretty careful with the assemble. It is just an old habit to text the plane for vibration.
Also I can assure the parts I build but it is an ARF, most of it was build by someone else.

I do not live near the USA, here this airplane is 5x to 6x more expensive and I would like to be SURE about vibration and engine stability. I do not have warranty here...
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 03:59 PM
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USA So. Cal.
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ABC engines need HEAT CYCLING to properly break in. Ground running at Mid RPM Is NOT the way to do this.
Please Pay Attention! The PROPER proceedure has been carefully spelled out!
Ignoring it will not be good for the engine PERIOD!
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 04:04 PM
Engine Category Manager - EVO,
United States, IL, Champaign
Joined Aug 2005
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We do talk about the first run being on the ground in our manual. That will be fine. The exhaust duration is 158 degrees.

Pete
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 05:36 PM
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East Texas
Joined Aug 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brunofporto View Post
I'm pretty careful with the assemble. It is just an old habit to text the plane for vibration.
Also I can assure the parts I build but it is an ARF, most of it was build by someone else.

I do not live near the USA, here this airplane is 5x to 6x more expensive and I would like to be SURE about vibration and engine stability. I do not have warranty here...
You are wise to run it at least one time before putting in the air. No one is perfect and the possibility of some issue always exist for every one of us. For starters, every gas engine installation has to be range checked with the engine running at various speeds.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 09:12 PM
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winston mo
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O boy I can't wait till she is in the air.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete Bergstrom View Post
We do talk about the first run being on the ground in our manual. That will be fine. The exhaust duration is 158 degrees.

Pete
Thank you very much Pete! I already read the manual but as my English is not perfect not all information comes right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fokker DII View Post
ABC engines need HEAT CYCLING to properly break in. Ground running at Mid RPM Is NOT the way to do this.
Please Pay Attention! The PROPER proceedure has been carefully spelled out!
Ignoring it will not be good for the engine PERIOD!
Fokker, that is a fact and I'm planning to follow manual instructions and Horizon recommendations very seriously. I they had said that they do not recommend to do ANY tank on the ground I would do it only in the air!

Quote:
Originally Posted by AA5BY View Post
You are wise to run it at least one time before putting in the air. No one is perfect and the possibility of some issue always exist for every one of us. For starters, every gas engine installation has to be range checked with the engine running at various speeds.
That is one of my concerns, good point on checking the range while the engine is on!! Thank you!
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Last edited by brunofporto; Jan 09, 2013 at 09:49 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 12:47 AM
Gas Only
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USA So. Cal.
Joined Sep 2010
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Mine ran well right out of the box. I am sure you will like this engine. Enjoy Good flying.
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 05:31 AM
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Birmingham, UK
Joined Apr 2007
510 Posts
Mine was waiting for me when I got in from work last night, it's gone into an old 46 size Black Horse Extra 300 in place of the Magnum 91 four stroke that had been in it. A change of mounts, a hole for the cables to enter the fuselage and voila - My First Petrol!
One question, what's the best thing for the internal clunk connection - the viton seems a bit stiff, especially with the lightweight felt clunk.
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 12:23 PM
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Joined Jan 2010
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How is the engine vibration of the 10cc compared to say an os55ax or a saito .72?
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 09:39 AM
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United States, CO, Durango
Joined Feb 2012
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10cc

I've been flying gas for a few years, 20cc, 26cc, 30cc, and 55cc. I have one of these 10cc evo's on the way. I have been looking at the RGC 15cc and the NGH 9cc but I've bought too much HobbyKing crap in the past. I read the manual on the evo 10cc and the info was very nice to see. I have a Evo .52 and a .60nx, that I hope to replace with this new engine. Is there any info about the 60gx vs .60nx on power? Also would anyone have any info if Evolution is going to add more engines like the new 10cc, A 15cc or 20cc???. I see they are calling this engine part of the "small block series".
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 10:01 AM
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USA, TX, Grapevine
Joined Dec 2008
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I think it would be really neat to have a .36 size RC gas igniton engine. That may be the smallest practical size, due to the fact that one cannot make the CDI module any smaller than it already is. Unfortunately the electrics have pretty muchtaken over the small end of the RC plane market. So it is hard to say if someone would come out with a .36 or not. But a .36 size engine would fit in the .25 size planes Ok, even if the CDI unit has a problem being fitted inside.

The problem with the 15cc, 17cc size gas engines is that they tend to weigh about the same as a 20cc gas engine, and thus people would tend to gravitate towards the 20cc engine in that case. Horizon Hobbies already has the Zenoah engines in that 20cc size as well as a 26cc engine too. So a 15cc or 17cc engine may conflict with the current engine lineup that they sell.
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