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Old Jan 21, 2013, 10:02 PM
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Here's a video I did today to test it out...it's starting to come together nicely...
Quad video test (6 min 18 sec)
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 05:32 PM
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Today I decided to make myself a nice parallel adapter. I just have to find out what kind of time runs I can get with two small 2200mah batteries... This will work with any two batteries too. The main connector is just a plug I cut from an old battery and this was perfect for this adapter as I didn't have to resolder anything. I didn't want to cut these wires so I just cut the others smaller. You may want to do it so you have a bit more room there. Either way should work. I just had to make the two for each battery. Make sure you check what plug goes where so you get it right the first time and not short anything. As of now I have found that 14awg works great, anything larger is tougher to solder, specially when you are doing three wires like this. So far it has also worked fine on the quad so I'll stick with this size unless something bad comes up, but so far it's been good. With parallel I know it won't be pulling more amps, but just from two batteries.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 07:54 PM
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Here's the video of my parallel adapter...it works now I just have to find time to test it out. I also have my wattmeter ready so I'll need to do that too.
Adding a parallel adapter so I can use two batteries... (0 min 46 sec)
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 09:55 PM
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I'm finally hitting the testing phase...the wires are starting to not look pretty. I just mounted my wattmeter to the quad to see what sort of juice I'm pulling. The good thing is that this one is just temporary, but you can now see how slightly larger center plates would be helpful. Things get cramped pretty quickly. I also added a piece of double sided tape under the back of the camera to angle it down more. I don't like to look at the spinning propellers.

WARNING: Do not use the meter like this. I think it reset the firmware and I had an incident today. I'll talk about it more, but one blade cut two fingers. I'll be okay but just thought I mention it before anyone tries this.

I guess the above may had something to do with the programming and not my wattmeter.
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 03:44 AM
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So I went over to a friends house and I wanted to test this out in the grass. As I plugged everything with the wattmeter in between the battery and esc it looked fine. I then tried to power on the quad and it seemed okay, but then I tried to disarm it and it sped up. I was holding the quad down and managed to stop it with the stick on low, but it seemed to start by itself this time which it never did before, so I lower the throttle 10 to 0 setting to make sure it would turn off. I then went ahead and tried again and my friend noticed that not all motors were turning at the same time. I then thought okay I guess I need to re-initialize the escs. I only took off the esc 1 conector to power it off so I could hold the two buttons with my left hand, but I got a throttle message and remember I had to put the stick up to max but as did that and plug the board the blades spun and I quickly moved my right hand off but the prop had already broken on my right ring finger and my middle finger. I'll be fine, but it hurts like hell and now I'm wondering how the heck can the firmware reset itself that way, before I even tried recalibrating the escs? This is the only thing I can think of happening with the wattmeter because I just could not get it to unarm and the motors were not turning at the same time after I plugged this in. Needless to say if you use a wattmeter take the blades off and test before. I was outside and didn't think anything of it, but it bit me tonight. So I'll be checking that later after I heal. Luckidly I like to use the soft cheap plastic blades just in case this sort of thing happened. Not that it makes a difference for being exta careful, but there you go. I was wearing my safety glasses as usual. I have no idea where the other half of the prop went.

In short do not use esc 1 to calibrate your escs. Keep all esc's connected and use the power plug from the battery as the board needs to be powered for the calibration to work even though it worked on that video on youtube. If not this may happen to you, but I still need to check my stuff to make sure everything is working the way it's supposed to.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 06:48 PM
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Here's are the videos after the mishap...also what I found about trims on this tx. So the trims on older transmitters like this are very crucial to check before powering up any model. And calibrating the escs without the props of course.
The check after the accident I had with the quad (3 min 30 sec)

Mishap check 2 (3 min 50 sec)
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 03:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efx View Post
Here's are the videos after the mishap...also what I found about trims on this tx. So the trims on older transmitters like this are very crucial to check before powering up any model. And calibrating the escs without the props of course.
The trims works in the whole range of the stick, not just around the centre. If range with trim in centre is 1.1 - 1.9, it might be 1.0 - 1.8 (1.4 @ mid stick) with low trim and 1.2 - 2.0 (1.6 @ mid stick) with high trim.
Throttle trim might be a bit different on some systems, where it only affects the lower part of the stick range. The reason for this is that if running combustion engines, you the are able to adjust idle speed without affecting the top throttle setting.
Would be interesting to see a reconstruction of what you did (without props), but I bet the same thing will happen (even without power meter) if you:
Power up
Arm
Disarm
Pull M1
Set throttle to full
Connect M1

Fred
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 03:20 AM
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I think you are right, the same thing will happen as I haven't seen anything change other than me making sure the throttle trim is not up then I'm safe as the motors won't turn by themselves. The left and right trim got moved in my backpack today and I was so tuned to the throttle trim that I forgot to check the others until after my first flight going sideways and me having to correct things. Still very new at using this so I'm working on it, I just can't forget anything as any trim will affect that quad or anything for that matter, but you are also right, I got this way back for my nitro heli that I still have yet to maiden. I'll be using the 9x on that one once I get better at flying though. Still practicing on my 450.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flarssen View Post
The trims works in the whole range of the stick, not just around the centre. If range with trim in centre is 1.1 - 1.9, it might be 1.0 - 1.8 (1.4 @ mid stick) with low trim and 1.2 - 2.0 (1.6 @ mid stick) with high trim.
Throttle trim might be a bit different on some systems, where it only affects the lower part of the stick range. The reason for this is that if running combustion engines, you the are able to adjust idle speed without affecting the top throttle setting.
Would be interesting to see a reconstruction of what you did (without props), but I bet the same thing will happen (even without power meter) if you:
Power up
Arm
Disarm
Pull M1
Set throttle to full
Connect M1

Fred
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 05:18 PM
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Another update on this build. I did a test flight and my quad decided to flip over right down to the ground. I thought I had checked all my esc's, but apparently I had not, not to mention some of the settings for quads should be a bit different than a heli setup which I was used to. So here are my settings and the video.

Okay just made all the changes and basically I now have all escs lit up with the first LED on the programming card except the music. I'll test with both buzzers if I can.

Brake-off
Li-xx-just to play it safe for now and test it to see what I get. Some have suggested just using the Ni-xx with the individual cell alarms. I have them but want to test this first.
Cut-off-soft as the only other option is cut-off which you don't want.
Cut-off voltage-Low...just make sure to plug in your alarm if you use this.
Start Mode-normal - I was using very soft for the helis, not good on quads.
Timing Low- trying this as these are high kv motors, not sure if they will help preserve battery. I have used middle for my helis, but since I'm using four motors I want to test the low. Looking at the manuals, the higher timing the faster the motors spin.
Music-none
Governor-off

Make sure you check these on your builds before flying so you don't get any surprises like I did. No damage as I was flying low for testing, but either way it was not pretty. Also, you will not hear any beeps or music unless a motor is plugged into the esc! This is all stuff I'm learning as a noob so I'm trying to make notes so you won't make the same mistakes.

Quad test with LED's and SF props (4 min 14 sec)
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 11:55 PM
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I got curious about the timing settings on the esc's so I decided to test them out while the props are off. Here's what I found.
Testing high timing on the quad... (3 min 8 sec)
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 11:58 PM
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I am liking these motors, but one thing I am really hating about them are these nuts I guess I'll call them. The holes they come with are too small to put anything larger than the small screw driver through them. As you can see I already bent my tiny screwdriver, this is not good. I'll have to figure out a way to make them a little bigger. The threaded bottom doesn't seem to go all the way to the top so I should be able to do this, hopefully without ruining them as I don't have any.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 01:19 AM
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1800kv is really too much for this application. Can't find the D2822/12 but for the 1450kv version, 7x4.5 props are recommended on 3S. The 1800 would need even smaller props. Did you measure max current while hovering?

On my Q450, I use D2830 with 1000kv with 8x4.5 props.

Fred
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 01:55 AM
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Oh no Fred, the motors are working just fine in the low setting. I just pushed them up to the high setting just to see what they would do. That setting seems to be a bit much for them, but it was just a test on my part. Like a said, there is none of that when they are on the low settings so no harm done. I did test them again after I went back to the low setting even with the adapter, they were smooth as can be. Yes those are the same props recommended for my motors too. I use the 8x4. Do you have a video with the 1000kv motors, I would like to see those in the air. I saw a 330 size fly with 790kv's and it was pretty smooth, but I like to have a little more power on them...just me but the 1000kv with the 8x4 props seem to be the better ones for slow flying and video which is what I would like to do. I may make one a fast one as I like to go a bit fast on them sometimes. I'm still testing at the moment so it's hard to say what I like better and I haven't tested too many components either. Also, how long does your batteries give you with those motors and props again?

Quote:
Originally Posted by flarssen View Post
1800kv is really too much for this application. Can't find the D2822/12 but for the 1450kv version, 7x4.5 props are recommended on 3S. The 1800 would need even smaller props. Did you measure max current while hovering?

On my Q450, I use D2830 with 1000kv with 8x4.5 props.

Fred
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 02:22 AM
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I found the 1800 version, not at Hobbyking though. The recommendation of 8x4 is valid for 2S. 7x3 is recommended for 3S. As long as motor or ESC doesn't get hot, its probably fine as is. But the motors may operate with very low efficiency, which leads to shorter flights.
I have no video of the Q450, but I can try to make one.
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